pas d'inquiétude. si une plante reçoit trop d'eau qui ne s'evacue pas rapidement elle peut avoir le comportement de la plante de droite où toutes les feuilles baissent. laisse sécher le substrat.

Don't panic! It is common for a plant to droop after a heavy defoliation. This is often caused by a temporary disruption in the plant's ability to transpire and manage water pressure. Since you also watered right after the defoliation, the roots might be slightly overwhelmed because the foliage isn't there to pull up moisture at the usual rate. ​Here is what you can do: ​Give it time: Cannabis is resilient. It will likely take 24 to 48 hours for the plant to recover and adjust to the new canopy structure. ​Back off: Resist the urge to do any more training or pruning. The plant needs rest right now. ​Monitor soil moisture: Ensure you don't overwater while the plant is recovering. Let the medium dry out properly before the next watering. ​She should perk back up once she adjusts!

From defoiliation, overwatering, too much light... more than one cause can result in plants drooping like that. Your recent behavior may or may not be coincidental. You'll need to eliminate possibilities given you have much more familiarity and information about what's been done. If normal watering caused it, it's a matter of medium composition. Proper watering habits should never cause droop. Full saturation should never cause droop. As long as you wait long enough between irrigations, you should never see droop. Are you watering too frequently? If not, you need more perlite or similar next time. high water capacity medium - 50% perlite or similar low water capacity medium, like coco - 33% perlite or similar Both end up with similar gas:water mix per volume, which is what matters. If you follow this, droop is impossible from irrigation unless you are doing it too frequently, which is easily avoidable. It may have being something else causing it that coincidentally occured at the same time as your defoliation. e.g. if giving slightly too much light you avoid a lot of the tell-tale signs but eventually get some droop.. might take weeks to occur in some cases. Usually you'd also observe too tight of node spacing in new growth, too. The more familiar with the workings of your light and past grows the easier it is to discount this possibility. Trust the node spacing of new growth... that is a direct indicator of how intense the light was recently. Selectively pruning a leaf is fine if there's a good reason. I'd recommend not removing a bunch of very useful organs, otherwise. Removing leaves does not cause the plant to 'focus on flower' or any other nonsense like that... if anything, it motivates the plant to grow more leaves. All those gaps created in the canopy is lost energy (less absorbed, more light completely missing the leaf surface. The vast majority of photoreceptive organelles are in the top layers of leaves. Light hitting other surfaces are 1/100th of the photosynthesis by comparison. It is common sense to maximize light hitting top layers of leaves - not stems, flower or anything else. The products of photosynthesis go where they are used most... concentration gradients in the vascular tissue assure that. It is highly mobile. Not only that, but they are the 'lungs' of the plant. Transpiration and therefore co2 intake is directly related to leaf surface area. CO2 is a limiting factor. Hindering co2 intake would be nearly impossible to overcome by some other perceived benefit of leaf removal. Avoid risk of microbial growth. Congested leaves causing constant condensation is an excellent reason to remove a leaf or two. Constant condensation is a sure-fire way to get powedery mildew.

Looks overwatered