Problems

Those plants are still small, so I wouldn’t panic about a couple of damaged leaves. Brown/orange spots can come from earlier stress, watering issues or nutrient/pH problems, and damaged tissue won’t recover. Watch the new growth instead. Also, those big pots hold a LOT of wet soil compared with the plant size. Be careful not to saturate the whole pot too frequently—let the root zone dry back properly and judge by pot weight. I’d stop the LST for now, keep conditions stable, and let them establish. If the new growth stays healthy, you’re back on track!

Maybe do u drip ur plantwater over the plants? One question, do u use ph meter and ec meter? Look for c

Leaf damage looks mechanical....LST as you said. They will be fine.....however cutting leaves off plants this small will affect growth.....more leaves = more energy being produced = more potential growth.

4th picture looks like something dripped on the plant? You may hve killed the growth tip ... as long as an axillary bud survived, it'll just be similar to topping. 5th picture has some concerns.. hopefully it grows out of it or also due to something dripping on it. anyway, problems here look more physical than nutrition-caused. possibly due to oddities or dry/wet pockets caused by less-than-ideal watering context. The first couple sets of true leaves often have blemishes that you won't see on newer growth. ---- less specific things that may help, below While you may need to tweak balance of fertilizer or maybe the soil is "hot" - i think most of your problems can be fixed with a little more patience, better watering habits and size-appopriate pots. Your tent looks a lot like my first tent... too many plants and thinking i could skip the potting up process (you technically can, but the costs/risks outweigh the near-zero benefit of doing so). Watering is incredibly difficult to do well when you have a tiny plant in a large pot. Water a small cricle is obvious, but also make sure that moisture goes deep.. all the way to the bottom, or else you are training superficial roots and creating a context of greater moisture at the surface rather than the interior of the medium. Roots grow toward greater moisture. You want them mostly growing down, not up. Yes, even with autoflowers you should use size-appropriate pots. I've done 400+ potted 'transplants' without ever shocking a plant. You can too. Proper root growth and a enough moisture makes it easy to do without issues. "Transplanting" has a reputation of being extremely stressful for a plant, but this is only in reference to outdoor, in-earth plants. In that case, you are cutting through the roots and that is incredbily stressful. In the context of a potted plant, there should be little to no damage of root system... maybe running a trowel along the sides of a fabric pot rips a few roots, but that won't cause any problems. Simply pulling it from a smaller pot, setting it in a larger volume of medium, and covering it is not stressful. Also, super easy if anxious about it... you'll be an expert after 1-2 "transplants." While seedlings may need to be handled with kid gloves, watering is pretty simple, otherwise... 1) fully saturate size-appropriate pot -- also get 10% runoff if soilless growing method. 2) wait for appropriate dryback -- either depth of dryness or loss of weight are 2 excellent ways to measure this in a consistent way. That's it... irrigating should be a mindless task... you don't choose a volume in a top-down way... you give as much water as it takes to accomplish step #1. IF you wait for a similar dryback, it'll take a similar volume each time. easy-peasy. This is not over-watering - that's more about choices related to frequency of watering. Leaving dry pockets is an incredibly bad habit with numerous ramifications in the long-run. Definitely wait longer to LST. anchor to opposite side before you bend it down. Also, have a plan based on the canopy you want at the end.. work backward from that goal. otherwise, it's whimsical and often just overgrown congestion. Only need ~2-3 colas per sq ft. 3x3 tent? 20-30 colas divided by number of plants. Lots of leeway here.. just general guidelines. But you maximize yield and avoid useless effort like defoliation or pruning of congestion -- both represent wasted time and resources, too. Minimal pruning is usually inevitable. Doing so also makes the decision about when and how to LST automatic. i would suggest not including the first set of branches in plans. anything below the bend will suffer greatly by comparison to growth above the bend. keep it simple.. learn to grow a plant in a healthy way and then try new things after you have a baseline to compare. see the natural variety of results based soley on genetics and you realize it's incredibly easy to lie to yourself through confirmation bias. you'll betteer discern fact from fiction when you do try new things instead of attributing every positive to the most recent decision. i had some monster plants when i first started. it gave me an incredibly inaccurate expectation that took a coulpe years to correct. When working with seeds, the fog of war is significant. There is a wide range in outcomes, ceteris paribus -- "all other things remaining the same."

A lot of stuff has leeway with cultivating. Coming from beans and ruining your initial vigor is rough, and is not somewhere with room for error or interpretation. This is a huge deal for autos, kind of unpredictable how they will react. If you were running photoperiods you'd just eat a week or two before the explosive vigor really took back off. A good analogy is a human child. You can provide the same stress at different points in their life to essentially polar opposite impacts. Take a newborn and teach them that food is not a given, that their cries might go unanswered, and you'll give them trauma for life. Take a teenager and show them that food is not a given and that their cries might go unanswered, and you'll be giving them a powerful life lesson that will benefit them for life. Same general stress, but the timing of application is key.

Looking at the photo, the brown and orange spots on the leaves (mainly tips and edges) are common after a forced LST. It’s stress + a possible mild nutrient imbalance.Doesn’t look like a serious pest or fungus. New leaves are coming out green and the plant is solid. **Should you worry?** Almost not. If it keeps growing and new leaves come out clean, just leave it alone. Only watch if the spots start spreading fast. since you’ve already decided not to touch them anymore, that’s perfect. Let it recover on its own.