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@JaeMack
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Gave it a ice water flush and 48 hours of darkness. Then chopped on 10/24.
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Logramos rellenar casi todo el espacio, muy contento con el proceso siendo mi primer scrog.. esperamos que formen todos los puntos de floracion para realizar última defoliacion y raleo ✌️🏾👨‍🌾🏾
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Hey Farmers! I'm really happy with this girl and the progress she's made, she is unphased by all of the high stress training i have been applying, this is the power of DWC and good genetics! made a judgement call and defoliated once more. theres a lot of flower sites all over this beautiful plant. Even though it's a competition, I am still growing this plant for yield and quality, so as a result, the plant may not look the prettiest, and I cannot take her out for proper photos, but my results will be less pop corn buds, potentially bigger, and most importantly, more yield. I would not suggest this, unless you have you environment stable and your plants are healthy and ready for it. this cinderella jack vegged for 6 weeks and showed me she enjoyed the HST now entered flower in earnest, I am excited to see all those little buds grow bigger every day, hope you guys check in next week to see the growth!
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@B4niTa
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Permanent Jealousy XL Auto sprouted and looks healthy😁 Kept it under 20/4 light
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@goeser
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Startet the germination of this plants on 07.05.2018. 4 of 5 Royyal Gorilla Auto seeds germinated and are growing well. They are staying in my garden and i hope that they will get more and more sun this coming week. 1 of 4 is quit strong , and ist already frosty and has good buds , hope they will get big and fat. the other 3 plants are a bit slower and one of them is a bit small but bushy. first "outdoor" grow for me in a not soo sunny area.
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@Artyparty
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-Still battling getting the humidity lower than 59° but as far as right now I'm just looking to do a light defoliation at the end of week 3 and hopefully expose more but sites. -Slowly taking off big fan leaves day by day instead of doing it all at once.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553
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@Dunk_Junk
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So she grew another 26cm this week!!!!!!! But that means the flowering stretch is coming to an end. Her flowers are starting to form nicely. They look really dense at this early stage. Can't wait to see what she's like in a few weeks.
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@Verde_og
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Estos últimos riegos seran solo con agua ya que la.planta muestra sintomas de que le queda poco para que acabe su periodo de floracion. Realizaremos limpieza de sustrato solo con agua para poder conseguir una mejor sabor y la fumada sea mas suave.
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@Ferenc
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Day 51, 9th of November 2021: Hi there! Here we go the second week of flowering. This is the time really not much to say apart from the strech they are going through. Especially Spilff's Strawberry 🍓 she is crazily doing it. Not much changed maximum a bit more water intake for them. I could write ✍️ review each of them but nothing significant happening it is the transition stage anyways. So rather just post the current settings and facts basically it is just the same like last week when it started. ViparSpectra XS2000 is on full power which is 240W so 100% capacity. Ventilation is different as well under the 12 hours period when the lamp is on it switches 1 hours on and after one hour off mostly to keep the temperature and of course because of fresh air flow. When the lamp is off it switches on in every 2 hours for 15 min at the same time with the extraction fan. The extraction fan is on 12 hours when the lamp is, and then it switches on in every 2 hours for 30 min. That's all a bit more water for them from today also. Humidity quite the same approx 50%, temperature as well approx 26-27 Celsius. Fertilization remains the same since last week, the BioBizz family raised up to be 2ml/L each so it is like 2ml/L of BioGrow, 2ml/L of BioBloom, 2ml/L of TopMax... see the ratio above. The schedule of the fertilization has not changed happnes 2x a week except epsom salt just 1x a week.
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Sept 24th - carried out some LST on the (d)P this morning. Looking pretty darn healthy. Bigger than Natural Mystic and a week behind. This plant really established itself last week - possible 1/2 volume feed tonight 2.75L h2o/molasses ***Oct 8 is Lights-out. Plants go into the dark for 36 hours*** (northern lights finish is going to take toooo long, enough. Into the 2’ tent. small photoperiod GMG to take its place) 25th a.m. - fed half volume h2o/molasses - this plant has opened up and is responding to something -applied some fresh LST anchors, go 26th - carried out a good LST session to finish yesterdays organizing. Looking real sharp! 27th - plant looks ready for a big feed tonight, if the soil allows; 6.5L - with a flowering deadline approaching (Oct 8 or b4) its great that I’m able to get some bigger nutrient volumes into the mix. Working my way towards one 2 gallon feed before lites-out if everything lines-up. - photo uploaded of repair site from first topping. (Uploaded discovery photo as well) Sept 29th a.m. - waited till the Pot was actually lighter (extra 2 days) & fed (d)P 6.5L h2o / nutes - little clean-up on the LST, she is sharp looking and getting round - seeing the pot actually lighter confirms we are not drowning the plant and confirms we are working near the dry side. - 15 gallon pot stays right where it was, and looks like its gonna NEED THE SPACE 30th - last day week 6 - sister plants have indicated a build-up of Salts (n things) is happening in the Soil and I will be flushing the plant tonight as a bit of preventative Maintenance, ahead of any build-up issues going into Flower. - she looks strong and ready. Lites-out is a week away - Foliar misting has been reduced to ~ Twice a week - Flush and some Molasses are going to set this one in motion
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Awrite troopers am shit at filling in ma diary someone seems to hav noticed ma diary’s hav sad face well Bob has a happy face happy 😃 rite troops waiting for the ladies at the bak to finish hav started to pot up the next run because a just want it started am fighting for space n am working oota wan tent so no got a veg flower system that I had before but enjoy trying new things so revenging and takin clones from flowering plants
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@Pblc_10
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So stehen jetzt alle in töpfe im Zelt aber ich habe das Problem das es super warm ist (29°C in der Wohnung) im Zelt. Da ich schon meine Abluft ziemlich hoch gedreht habe und ein lüfter schon auf höchster Stufe ist werde ich wohl noch ein zweiten Ventilator mit rein hängen und dann hoffen das ich nicht weiter andauernd bei 30 Grad ankomme🙈 vielleicht hat ja jemand Tipps wie ich die Temperatur runter bekommen kann und einen riesen Aufwand zu haben🙈😅
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Absolutely Love these genetics one of my favorite grows so far cannot wait till harvest. The smells are immaculate.🌿💨💯
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Nice week. Transition to center mass continues - the frost builds and the aromas are incredible. Purple berry kush - slight touch and the blast of berry kush. I showed it to a non smoker - he smelt it and said - smells like I shouldn’t be here 😂😂😂. Upcoming week will be weening off the finisher and phasing in for a full flush. Divergence on two plants in the tent as they were planted later so will keep the blooming fed.
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@DRO420
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Just repotted these clones ... They have amazing roots... Looking very healthy
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@Kynareth
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en lineas generales bien el cultivo. la genetica es buena aunque no esta muy estabilizada. no es resistente a los hongos, la cola mas grande que estaba vencida sobre otras plantas tiene botritis ne la parte baja de cada cogollo con lo que se habran perdido facil 30g en seco.
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I added the 2nd SCROG this week, though the plant has not grown up to it yet. There was a good amount of stretching this week to go along with a lot of loli-popping. Great run so far.
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👉Alrighty Then👈 👉Apple And Banana 👈 week 4 of flower So we had some real nice growth this , had to do a little leaf management👈 flower mode activated...... Everything is looking good 👍I'm using well water which is hard so I'm having a few issue but I'm on it .... So ive up'd the nutrients to accommodate pre flower ..... Soil by Promix Nutrients by Cronks Lights by MarsHydro.ca FC4800 X UR45 X Adlite Deep Red And Blue Tent 4x4x6.5 & Equipment by MarsHydro.ca High reflectivity inner mylar Thick Oxford fabric Smooth heavy duty zipper Sturdy metal frame Zipper blackout cloth Good anti light leakage performance The 6in Inline kicks ass moves alot of air ●Blue Light Effect: Blue light shortens internodes, resulting in shorter, stronger plants, ideal for supporting fruit development later. During vegetative growth, blue light promotes lateral branch development effectively. Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈 Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈