Week 8 12/22-29: Getting close to chop day.. planning to start the “flush” soon.. Trichomes looking cloudyyyy

Lilly x White Widow is doing great. She is bulking nicely with a frosty coating. She really loves the Spider Farmer G5000/UVR40 lights. She is due for a solution change soon. I may try to stretch it out till bulking is over. I want her to be juiced to fill in good, and dense. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Ripper Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au G5000 Light Amazon Link: amzn.to/4643esa UVR 40: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR7SGTHS Discount code: saveurcash (Stackable)

All right BEST strain and top high and flavour

I may have a little problem with humidity and temperature cause unexpected cold is came. Next week will be fixed. I really have to fix the temperature and humidty problem, cause i think there is too much thermal shock. Day 34, now i’m sure about thé température problem.

Good week. Careful on the nutrients, have some burn starting. Same nutrients dose as my other Autoflowers but doesn't react the same. Buds starting.

Week 31/3 - 6/4

So it has begun... I've had to start utilizing string to hold up branches by tying them to the ceiling rods and surrounding equipment. These plants are healthier and happier than my first grow, so I wasn't quite expecting them to blow up like they did, therefore my single-layer screen was not enough to support the branches. Not to mention the net used was store-bought and kind of sucks. I prefer my double-layer from the first harvest. The Mimosa is packing on some major frost, followed closely by the Glookies. American Pie trichomes seem to appear and ripen much closer to the ending stages of flower.

These girls are looking good, they are slowly streching at a good pace. They are still on a 6.4-6.8 ph which they are loving. No burnt tips from over feeding. There branching is good, stems are thick and sturdy, dont think I'm going to need support. So they get fed & inoculated once a week (@900-1100/ph:6.4-6.6)on Tuesdays and watered (@170-220ppm/ph:6.4-6.5)(acti-vara/cal-mag(2ml/gal.)) some times I dont have to use a buffer (ph+/-).

null😘😜😝

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

I transferred it to a half-gallon pot and I mixed the organic fertilizer with the soil.

Vegetation Week 14: Royal Growth & Pre-Flower Whispers Update: 17.06.2025| Day 102 Hey Growmies, Week 14 is pure satisfaction. The ladies radiate health, pests are history, and every sunrise brings visible progress. Here’s the serene update: Growth Report - Explosive daily growth: New shoots cascade like a "royal dress" – layered, lush, and dense. - Uniform deep green foliage – zero deficiencies, zero stress signs. - First calyxes spotted at nodes! Pre-flower transition seems imminent (expect that legendary sativa stretch from Durban soon). Pest & Recovery Update - Aphids/ants: Fully eradicated. No sightings all week. - Foliage untouched – pristine leaves from crown to soil line. Care Routine - Bokashi juice (1:100) twice weekly – plants absorb it effortlessly. - Deep watering only when soil dries 5cm down (encouraging root depth). - Mulch renewed – retains moisture through 28°C days. Environmental Notes - Weather: Stable 28-30°C days / 14-16°C nights. Light: 16+ hours daily – still solidly in veg territory. Next Steps - Monitor calyx development daily – pre-flower stretch could begin any day. - Keep airflow maximized through the dense canopy. Week 14 Takeaway Perfection in patience. After early battles, the garden now runs itself. These Dutch Passion phenos are sculpting themselves into regal, resilient queens. As always take care of your girls and thanks for checking in. CU next time – Smoking_Joe_Frazier

This week I transplanted them into moist, inoculated soil that I had matured for 40 days, so I didn't water them this week. The soil hasn't dried out yet. I put mycorrhizae in the transplant hole. Next week my oil heater will arrive to raise the temperature a bit in the dark, because there were days when it reached 14°C. I noticed some leaves looked wrinkled; I believe it's because the soil is cold and I'm feeding them 300 ppfd. But otherwise, it's growing, just slower.

Plant did ok, not the best result and far below my expectations for it. I found that growing them in pots with other plant is a no go from now on for autos. they just don't grow all that well when their root space is being shared, all my autos from a few breeders did poorly when I grew them like this. however the ones I kept in their own pot did much better, the Ganja farmer brand is good, just wish they had some CBD/CBG strains in their catalogue. This will all be for friends and family. @GanjaFarmerSeeds, If you like the images or videos I can send you raw files that have not been shrunk/resized and contain no watermarks, if you feel I am in the top 3 of your BDOTY Contest that is :D

Hey hey hey Growmies 😘🤗🤩 Thanks for stopping in! I hope your week has rocked! 💪🏼So far so good over here! Today is day 49 for my set of G14s from 420Fastbuds and they are kickin ass! 🤩 The first plant was topped early on at 3 nodes and we also did some LST, we now have 4 beautiful main colas that are getting so thick!! This girl is smelling so so good and is really doing great! 💪🏼 The second plant pictured is the same age and was not topped. This girl we did LST early on and it is also doing very well and has a good smell! Both girls are receiving a few different types of bloom nutes and also cal mag. We did some more defoliation on day 47 so the bud sites are sure to get plenty of light! We’ve been using the spider lights and so far are very happy with them. 3 gallon pots that are super breathable. Like I said, so far so good 😊 We are leaving to FL soon for 10 days 😬 so hoping everything goes smoothly while we are gone. Any tips for that (leaving plants while on vacation) are welcome! Thanks for following along or stopping by! I’m here to learn and here to help if possible 😊 Check me out on Instagram @greengirl420mipotfarm or my Husbands at mi.pot.farm to see more of our grows 🤗🙃 And don’t forget.... puff, puff, passssss 💨 💨

Week 8: Veg – Final Setup & Runtz Breakthrough 🌿 System-Status: Kompletter Nährlösungswechsel (35L) für den Endspurt der vegetativen Phase. • pH-Wert: Stabil bei 6.1. • EC-Wert: Konstant bei 1.24 mS/cm. • Wassertemp: Optimal bei 19,9°C. Nährstoff-Konfiguration (35L): • Basis: Osmosewasser + CalMag (Grund-EC 0,45). • Hesi Hydro Wuchs: Volle Dosis laut Leitfaden. • Hesi Wurzel Complex: Reduziert (da Wurzelballen bei beiden Strains nun ausreichend etabliert). • Hesi Power Zyme: 70 ml. • Plagron Silic Rock: 35 ml (Vorbereitung auf den Blüte-Stretch). Pflanzen-Update: • AK47: Unverändert vital, kräftiges Blattwerk, bereit für 12/12. • Runtz Lake Cake: Wurzel-Durchbruch bestätigt! Die Aufnahme läuft jetzt effizient, sie zeigt deutliches vegetatives Momentum.

Umzug in Gewächshaus ist vollbracht. Die eine Dame ist viel zu groß geworden also bleibt sie solange draußen wie es nur geht! Die Damen im Gewächshaus haben ideale Bedingungen. Tagsüber bis 30* und um 30% LF. Nachts Heizung und Lüfter sorgen für 15* und ca 55% LF

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I smell exotic fruits! My mouth is watering! I can't wait to delight her! ❤️🏻‍♂️

Day 70 of flower, the leaves are starting to fade thanks to the flush. If some Amber trichomes shows up i Will chop next week at day 77, by now the trichomes are almost all cloudy. The smell Is citrus-like and very strong. Dulcis in fundu i expect an heavy yield by the cookies looking at those buds.