=) all smiles week 8 of flowering for just four of them. Gg4 coming down Tom Along with tangiematic! Glueberry as well Sweet creme may go a few more days well see Ogesus number 1 and two will start getting flushed soon =) along with royal haze and amensia haze number 2 a week after. Forgotten cookies by mephisto look amazing =) my god look at that frost level. Took down 3 sample branches crying in the same closet as my first grow temps and humidity are perfect =). Also started off my 3rd grow have 7 new plants introduced flavors are 4assed monkeys Lsd-25 Grapey walter Gold glue Blue toof Avt alien vs trangle Double grape =)

Etwas K-booster dazu seit Woche 8 Ansonsten Seitenlampen angemacht

The Diary would NOT let me add all the weeks to Harvest Separate, sooo,, Harvest upload has 3 ish Weeks , N The Smoke will have the last week and Harvest

Just added another 100 watt light, ahe is loving that. Definitely loving the first photo grow!!

New home bigger pots finish of this training and flip them

Coming along nicely this week, hoping to see them explode in the next 2-3weeks. All are very healthy and have responded just how I like to LST. Purpinator is bringing out the smells in there definately and they are all smelling good in their own way. I recommend all the products I have used in this diary highly as they haven't failed me in the past(yield and quality). The only new product I am using is green planet purpinator, so I will let you know if I recommend this too when all is finished. I'll upload daily or every couple of days. To clarify I have 6x 55litre buckets with 3 plants of the same strain in each. I have used coco substrate and grown all of them from seed(courtesy of barney's farm) Thanks for looking.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas GG4 Sherbet Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Agradezco a Agrobeta todos los kits obtenidos de ellos 🙏. Ya veis que llevan buen ritmo ya tiene un color espectacular. Vamos al lío, El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 21/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%, 7 litros de sustrato. Iremos viendo cómo avanzan. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

End of week 3, last week we removed bottom node and this week removed last node from bottom tpp, heavy lollipoping for pre veg for 2/3 weeks then flip to 12/12

Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 80 дней. Растение хорошими темпами приходит в себя. Через неделю буду переводить на цвет. Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне и продалжаю применять её через день, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 LST технику делаю каждые 4.6 дней На сегодняшний день влажность 54% 5.09.2023 заметил высокий Ph 7.9 С 48 дня Ph не ниже 5.8 На сегодняшний день Ph 6.0 Начал кормить с 60 дня Canna Terra Vega PPM 550 Погладитель влажности хорошо справляется со своей задачей. Рекомендую Всем мира и добра! Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

Ciao ragazzi e bentornati qui per gli aggiornamenti sul diario stellare Questa settimana è andata più che bene direi, 3 ragazze hanno preso il volo rispetto alle altre 2, che mostrano ancora rallentamenti dovuti alla troppa foltezza delle foglie e la poca luce nei siti inferiori.🤙 Nel complesso alla grande, ho eseguito dell altro LST e nel giorno 24 e 28. Negli stessi giorni ho anche defogliato per aggiustare i rami mentre li legavo.👍 Ho bagnato loro nel giorno 25 con 2 litri di acqua e nuts, avevano davvero sete il vaso era leggerissimo.🔝 Anche per questa settimana è tutto amici Grazie per aver guardato e restate sintonizzati per nuovi aggiornamenti stellari.🙏 Buona settimana e felice crescita🌱🌱🌱

Harvest was rushed due to unforeseen events. No matter though. Gave her a very rough wet trim and hung each branch from my scrog net. Drying process was also rushed and my A/C failed just before the finish line so they are a bit dry and not AS flavourful as it could have been. They have been curing for 2 weeks - 3days. Still better than anything I can buy within a 300km radius and overall one of the best bowls I've smoked in years. Important Lessons: - Accurately monitor PH/TDS/EC. - Smaller pot size (?) - Feed way less nutrients (especially for autoflowers) - More reliable and cost-effective way of adjusting Temp/RH

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

It's been 37 days of flower now and The gals are still loving the fc4800 and their new 8x8 mars hydro grow tent as much as I do👍 leaves are sticking straight up towards the light. Love how easy the zippers are to open and close. Nice and strong and guaranteed to last. It has extra material on the backside of the zipper that helps for light leaksand enough ports and vents for anything you need in it👍. the tsw2000 is still going strong and is also a very good light. Its been going almost nonstop for 6 months and still working the same as when I got it👍. It really got my last grow extremely frosty and is doing the same so far for this grow. I'm very happy with every product I have gotten from mars hydro 👍👍There's not much heat off both lights but the fc4800 is alot cooler and the heat-sinks work extremely well. I have it daisy chained to the tsw2000 and 1 dimmer controls the other and i don't need to be reaching in too far to dim the other light, it's awesome and I can't wait to buy more lights to daisy 4 together👍. I would recommend this light to everyone that grows with leds and have trouble with temperatures getting too high. Even if you grow with HPS lights I think any mars hydro light is a MUST TRY. I like how heavy both lights are because I know it means they are built soild and strong 💪. Very good sign with the frost they are starting to get thanks to bith mars hydro lights. I can notice more frost under the fc4800 and I'm thinking it's from the UV DIODES they put on the fc4800 👍. 2 days ago they all smelt like my nuken, sweet marshmallows. But now I can smell the monkey dough and gorilla glue and skunk monkey coming through👍. I touched a bud on the gorilla and monkey fingers smelt like fruit loops👍 really pleasant smell. Lingered on my fingers for atleast 30 min. I'm glad mars hydro is under priced compared to some brands and for how popular they are. usually companies would charge more. Thanks mars you guys are awesome 🤘🥁🎸. I'm getting a new exhaust fan soon. An 8 inch that will work alot better than my 4 inch lol. Wayyy to small for a 8x8 Grow Tent. Dehumidifier is going almost non stop to try and get the humidity down. I love how both lights on 100% power only raise my temperature 2 or 3 degrees 👍. You can rest your hand on the lights and not much heat comes off them. Obviously there is some heat but for the brightness of the lights and only raising the temp that much is awesome 👌.  And if I wanted to I could remove the driver from the fc4800 and run it on the outside of my tent because the cord is so long but 2 or 3 degrees is barely nothing👍. The girls are starting to bulk up abit now and only 3 weeks of flowering, these lights are awesome 👌.  My last run of monkey dough and gorilla glue didn't start showing alot of crystals until week 4. These were only 2.5 weeks and I started noticing some frost. Next week I will be able to tell more about what these custom bred seeds will be like. I love how the smell is changing now. Didn't want all them to smell like nuken marshmallows lol. It's awesome that I can get right inside the tent to do any work i need👍. Even if I wanted an 4x8 tent. I'd rather this 8x8 because it's so easy to work with the plants and have so much room to move around and massive headroom when I'm in there chillin with the gals🤣🤘. FOR EVERYTHING MARS HYDRO VISIT: Www.mars-hydro.com PROMO CODE: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA Thanks for taking the time to read and check out my shit🤜🤛 GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍   Track: Ethan Meixsell - Thor's Hammer [Rock] Music promoted by BreakingCopyright Watch: https://youtu.be/o6Gr0xn6U88 Download: https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary_...

Just got the girls in the coco with the floraflex drip shields. I have on girl in regular roots organic soil and some m3 super soil mixed in. They are under my DIY citizen cob led. Consists of 4-citizens clu048 -1818 90cri cobs running at 1050ma. Later in bloom I'll probably bring in my other DIY that consists of 2-citizens clu058-1825 90cri cobs running at 2.4 amps. Im hoping to really push these girls but this is only my second run with coco and advanced. We shall see!

Lemon tree has a strong erotic base

A new week begins 05/22/2018 Fed Espoma + worm castings top dressed no more nitrogen . Changing to higher P and K. Looking for good organic P-K fertilizer,any suggestions? Anyone?. Thanks for looking at my grow hope you enjoy it. 05/28/2018 Should start seeing seeds popping in buds in next 2-3 weeks. 05/29/2018 Going to work on lowering humidity in last weeks of flowering , and prevent any mould issues