d.85 really fading hard, and buds are growing in size. just letting her do her thing, we are taking this to the end. also got my humidity down. d.87 buds are fattening up 😍 all i have to say about that is, bigger boots, bigger roots = bigger fruits. mainlining is possible with auto, as long as you choose a big enough pot size and time the topping and lst. after that part is done, then the auto just needs time to do its thing.

I just can't get my head around what's going on here hahah. But I'm so intrigued I'm going to have to let her grow. I'm holding on to the Hope she's going to be a monster. But I'm sure we'll find out in good time. She absolutely stinks.. she's nice and sticky. But so weird hahha

Bulking. Thought she was an 8-9 wk strain, turns out she is 9-10. She is gonna be heavy. Finally dropping temps below 60. Come on purple! Video/photos taken 98 days after breaking soil, day 49 of flower.

The cultivation of this specimen was good, better than I expected, without a doubt pure instinto It will be back in our tent

Day 22: Honestly didn't think I would have made it this far. The girls are looking great minus a couple of issues. I have over watered them and over fed too! Not to mention trying to LST too early. I will wait a bit longer before watering this time. Day 23: MORNING - They were super dry. I have been over watering a bit so I watered maybe 1/2 gallon for all 6. I also did some more LST and took 1 large fan leaf off of each plant. I will update again before lights out. Day 23: NIGHT - The girls are responding very well to the LST. I don't think they are liking the 80°. I am starting to have issues with lower humidity again. I need to try and figure some sort of ducting out or possibly even get a small AC unit for the grow room. Day 24: MORNING - I removed a couple more leaves that were covering potential bud sites. I have also done a partial main-line on the smallest girl. It looks to be already showing pistols. I've had to open the tent with a big fan blowing directly in with the humidifier behind it. The girls were getting hot and dry. Day 24: NIGHT - Well 5 are showing to be female. The biggest plant is showing no signs of sex. I am guessing it will be the mystery seed. I will be doing no more LST to these ladies for at least a week or better. I think I have stressed them out enough the past 2 days. Day 25: These girls are very resilient!! I tortured them all weekend and the one I nopped off to do a sort of mainline grew by 20% at least. Day 26: It is the official 3 week mark today and the girls are starting to flower. I tied em down to get light to all bud sights. I will 100% not touch them unless they need it from this point!!!! They are soo small and I need not stunt them any more!! I have removed the Mystery Seed as it looks to be a male and I do not want to take the chance!! Also fed and watered today. Only 200 ppm for the feed. Day 27: Nothing new to report. These girls are gonna be tiny :| I must've stressed em too much too soon :( Looking good though I think! 💪 Day 28: I never do what I say. Dumb! Broke main stem on one of the best plants. Taking it as a lessons learned. It's been two hours and she looks SICK! Oh well.

F1 Did some topping this last week. In a couple of days will turn them to flowering, would like to keep it between 3-4 weeks of veg at most with the Autopits or they grow way too big. Next week will be putting more nutes on the reservoir, by now that are drinking quite slowly but already using the Autopots

Got a dehumidifier it’s reading different from what mine controller 69 is saying but I have it set at 40% it’s the lowest so it’s going pull humidity regardless right now it’s about 53% which is okay would like it to get down to the 40’s I also changed the light schedule today to 20/4 the humidity raises at in my tent when lights are out so I figured change it to 20/4 instead of the 18/6 I’ve been running so if humidity does go over it won’t be for as long as before hopefully this works just trying to avoid any mold situation So far the Amneisa Haze 2 is at stretching she’s going be big I can but the haze 2 is done seems to just be flowering the sour diesel is looking good as well so far I’m happy with its looking like left town for two days and the auto watering pots worked!

This Pheno produces lovely phat calyx’s. Introduced bloombastic so watch them fatten up soon!

Massive PH swings are now levelling out. Using Organic Alaskan Bloom to lower the PH instead of the huge amount of PH Down it usually take. Needs less (about 5-10 ml) to lower the PH back to 5.7 from 6.4. BHB2 is more Sativa in appearance but is going to finish about 1-2 weeks ahead of BHB1 which is more indica like. (Appearances can be deceiving!). Have already flushed BHB2 for 24 hours with fresh RO water, replaced half with fresh then added GHE Bloom, Micro, CalMag, then the organics (Hygrozyme, Tarantula, Microbe Tea *Formula below.) Will do a final three day RO water flush when all the trichomes are cloudy (My fave harvest. More 'up') and about 10% amber. Am not worrying about PPM or EC at the moment. The microbes and organics are kind of messing with it. Had a potassium deficiency in BHB1. Treated with more GHE Bloom. Seems ok now. Blueberry Headband (2) from Humboldt Seeds. https://www.humboldtseeds.net/en/blueberry-headband/ Lighting https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/products/260w-qb-v2-led-kit DWC Nutients https://generalhydroponics.com/floraseries FloraGro .5 ml/l FloraBloom 2.5 ml/l FloraMicro 1.5 ml/l Cal Mag 1.5 ml/l https://generalhydroponics.com/calimagic  Diamond Necter: N/A https://generalhydroponics.com/diamond-nectar SuperThrive: .5 ml/l https://superthrive.com/ Epsom salts Tarantula https://www.advancednutrients.com/products/tarantula/ https://hylineproducts.com/products/hygrozyme/#one Grozyme: 2.5 ml/ltr Brown Slime Root Rot Organic Microbe Tea 8 liters RO water 5 ml (1 tsp) organic sulphur free molasses 5 ml Alaskan Organic grow fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Alaskan bloom fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Seaweed or kelp fertilizer Handful of composted horse pucky Worm castings, sea soil, Gaia General Purpose and Bat Guano Phosphate optional * add after brewing 2-4 ml Advanced Nutrients Tarantula

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie riecht fantastisch. Ich lasse sie noch bis Samstag stehen und dann kommt sie ab. Gebe diese Woche nur noch Wasser.

1/4/26 1:26 AM. This is me starting a diary accidentally a day too early iced tea had some problems. The cocoa had something in it and the root hit it and it screwed up so I’ve flushed it out. I put another seed in and she’s doing just great. I’ve never had this happen before so I must’ve. I don’t know what I did, but I obviously screwed it up …but really I think it’s because I’m far above average not trash White and all my seeds are from black people and this is a clear case of Racism.😡😂😂😂 I’m gonna write a book about my struggles. I think you’re all gonna really enjoy it.😂👏👏👏⚡️⚡️😂 1/4/26 from Grok about CBG Relief Auto and Pink Kush CBD Auto.... 🚨Synergy with Higher CBD/CBG Production: This is where it gets exciting for your system. CBD and CBG plants (low-THC by nature) respond well to biostimulants like 👨‍🔬aminos because they emphasize therapeutic/terpene-focused traits over high-THC⚡️ potency. Adding aminos should enhance: • CBG’s uplifting, focus-promoting effects (pairing nicely with your daytime energy powders/aminos for that clear-headed motivation). • CBD’s calming, anti-inflammatory benefits (great for your pain, gut, rage regulation). • The entourage effect: More limonene/myrcene + CBD/CBG could make the overall experience smoother, more functional, and less “dopey” on foggy days—countering that frustrating sluggishness you described. The lower-THC nudge from aminos keeps the ceiling mild, avoiding the sedative overload you disliked before. • Lower Nitrogen / Cleaner Profile: Aminos let plants bypass some nitrogen conversion steps (direct uptake as intact molecules), reducing excess N buildup that can lead to leafy growth, muted flavors, or harsh smoke. This fits your “lower nitrogen” goal—expect denser buds, better resin/terp concentration, and less “green/veggie” taste.🚨 1/4/26 2:42AM The tub in 237 is clogged, AGAIN ..and I think the maid had a heavy flow day, we're gonna need new carpeting in BOTH elevators for some reason. And keep the butler out of the dogs room, he'll get carpel tunnel again!! 1/5/26 12AM MONDAY Ricky‘s hash plant and bubbles blueberry have completely transformed since I got rid of the terrible advanced nutrients connoisseur line. I’m not giving them any breaks. They are one star product and I’m done with them. I’m gonna have to top all the plants now they are doing so good. They’ve become so big and bushy. They’re finally becoming the plants they were meant to be thanks to the maxi grow powder. No more burns. Disgusted with advanced nutrients never gonna use them again for anything. 1/5/26 11:20Pm...... Im so good at this, it's all too strong!! They all look great. THE TASTE HAS TOTTALLY CHANGED!!!! PERPETUAL SALAD GARDEN IMPROVED 100 PERCENT!! MAXI POWDER CHANGED THE FLAVOR PROFILE TO WAY WAY BETTER......AN WAS TERRIBLE FOR TASTE. EVERYTHING IS IMPROVING !! 1/6/26 5:32AM NosfurCHURUtu......the cat treat vampire.....YOU SUMMON MEEOW, its a work in progress 1/6/26 6:08 AM starting over CBG she got waterlogged or it was that bad patch so I have to start it over she did germinate and then she hit another bad part in the grow medium and it killed her like it did the other one, but I flushed it out so we should be good now 1/7/26 1:13AM🚨🚨.I asked about light efficiency and Grok said:.... That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/6/26 5:32AM The ICE T character arc journey!!!!!!! A film by a White man....HA HA HA!!!! 1/7/26 6:10AM...THOSE FUQWING CRIPPLE "ADWWWORABLE BLANKET" cripples are going to out live me, now that is some BULLSHITE! IM ALSO HAVEING ISSUES WITH A LARGE GROUP OF CERTAIN KIND OF PERSONSS...SO I HAD AN IDEA...BUT.....IT TURNS OUT THE GERMANS HAD THE SAME IDEA 80 YEARS AGO...AND I JUST DONT WANT TO BE THOUGHT OF AS A COPY CAT. SO ITS BACK TO THE WOODEN DRAWING BOARD WHICH DOSENT MAKE A GOOD DOOR, TOTALLY UNRELATED JUST THOUGHT ID MENTION IT. 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9 5:27 AM. I’m getting wildly different readings. I’m gonna trust the phone reading over the little device that I bought. 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9/26 11AM TAKE MY MONEY.....ORDERED.!!!!!!!! 1/9 128pm LEON WAN KENOBI - LADIES MAN JEDI .... I have the best remake ideas..... Leia: Are you my real father? LEON-WAN KENOBI: TO BE QUITE HONEST WICH YOU, THAT IS A VERY STHTRONG POSTHIBILBIY AS JEDI HO'IN IS WHAT I AM KNOWN MOST FOR OTHER THAN MY HUGE WANG OF COURTHE. 1/9/26 2:37PM https://cannakan.com/?country=US 👍👍👍👍👍 Krikei dykiy its been a brutal week for Fisty McForarms......

Lovely

Defoliated week two of flower. King tut showed preflower within three days, alien tech has taken about a week longer. Because I had autos in the tent I let these two photos veg about a month longer plus I took clones from both plants so let them recover a few weeks from that as well. Three alien tech rooted and one king tut clone have now rooted. I've never cloned before so think I will do better next time. We installed a second mars hydro tent with two fc3000 lights so we have a 4 by 8 dedicated veg/auto tent. This five by five gorilla tent is now the flower tent for photos. I could probably fill the tent with a single king tut plant easy. The king Tut has gotten huge! Alien tech put a bit of stretch on but is staying more compact and bushy. These plants have been through multiple toppings at a time and lst mainly through my own ignorance but they have pulled through like champs with all the stress. In Cocodelphia which I highly recommend, auto water with hydrolock system 4 times a day for 4 minutes at 550 ppm 6.0 to 6.1 ph dtw. King tut is a little nutrient sensitive which i think is the auto genetics. I could push more ppms but she has a tiny tip of nutrient burn so not pushing it for another week then will up ppms according to general hydroponics schedule from cocoforcannabis. If your new at dtw coco follow their schedule it will get you to the end of your first grow easily.

Not much happening. Watering when dry that’s all

-4/9/23 Start of Week --Week 3 -4/9/23 (Day 22) --Changes: lowered the light and move the pot about 6 inches closer to the middle of the light (light intensity not changed). --Diary Enter; harvested half of the other plant that is in the same space, allowing me to drop the height of the light. will be watching for problems because light intensity was not changed (about 60%). -4/12/23 (Day 25) --Observations: Branch node are forming at the spade leaves at the first level shade leaves, also the third set of shade leaves are forming. growing quicker now that the light was lowered, also looks darker than at the beginning of the week. --Diary Entry: started growing faster after lowering the light and looks like it has increased chlorophyll production. will be changing the light cycle at the beginning of next week to 18/6 light/night, it will get that light cycle for 3 weeks then change back to 12/12 because of the fast flower competition. Fast Buds information on this cultivar clams that the flowering cycle takes 7-8 weeks so that's what I'm accounting for, leaving 1-2 weeks for hang dry and the start of curing. -4/15/23 (Day 28) --Observations: branch nodes doing very good, growing at good rate. --Diary Entry: will be changing to 18/6 light/night cycle beginning tomorrow, will also be transplanting and starting training soon. -4/15/23 End of Week

5/16/2024 5/21 Wish there was more to report on these