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@b_deal
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This week was amazing guys. I literally watched the buds getting fat day by day. I am still feeding with a similar program and adding Aptus Regulator once per week to boost silica and some other minerals like molybdenum and boron. I'm flowering my plants in a hot environment with CO2 boost. PPFD is high to support these settings and thankfully my the pots aren't getting hot. No fungus gnats or any other pests, no root rot and bad smell. Everything is perfectly neat and buds are exploding. My expectations from this harvest is really high and I'll keep adding CO2 for another week. Some fellow growers asked for CO2 and PPFD measurements. I am sharing these information on this week's pictures. I got my CO2 meter fixed and I tested the CO2 PPM in different places of the canopy. Typical value for this grow tent with this CO2 setup is around 1100-1350. Temperature is fluctuating between 28-31 and the average PPFD on the bud sites is 1100 micro moles. I'm sharing CO2 measurements right under the fan, where you expect it to show the lowest value. Then I'll also share the CO2 PPM value coming out from the air pipe, which is normally attached to the grill of the fan. Direct output is now around 5500PPM and in the first two days, the meter shows 10000PPM which is the max value that it can reads. This bucket yeast CO2 reactor lasts for four days and I'm refreshing the mixture twice a week. This is huge CO2 with a fairly low cost compared to propane burners or CO2 tubes. Edit: I refreshed the CO2 bucket today and got you guys a video of the direct output. The system is outputting more than 10000PPM of CO2 and the meter can't measure it for the first two days. This CO2 method is a killer one for tent grows. Very low cost for very high CO2 concentrations. Hope these information helps. Happy growing 💪
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When the lights are off I will post another video so the green is easy to see!
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@Kayotic
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*Day 39 since sprouting * Almost snapped off another top, seems to be healing with clip *Took off lst clips and just bent and twisted for now *Light defoliation, leaves at bottom not getting light * First nutes given on Monday 8/29, 1/4 cup of Dr. Earth Homegrown 4-6-3 *Watered almost a gallon today, added DE to top of soil first
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Final da semana 2, planta com 15 dias desde seu nascimento em 6 de Agosto. Aparentemente já poderia ter aumentado o feed para algo próximo de 1.5, coisa que farei ao longo dessa próxima semana
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flowering day 15 - plants began to drink very actively. flowering day 18 - sugar started to build up and a very tart smell appeared and defoliation add 1100 ppm
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@J_diaz420
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Transplantes a macetas finales de 7lts realizados tempranamente para que se acomoden bien para pronto pasar a floración, no más de los 30 días de vegetación 🍀👨‍🌾🏻
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Fait son chemin tranquillement, les conditions sont bonne hydrométrie 60-70% température varie entre 19°et 27degrés.
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Looking great and flipping within days Grown under Smart-8 Check out MEDICGROW website https://medicgrow.com/ Really excited to see what it can do I’m flower. Love the Bloom button which increases red spectrum when wanted/needed… Currently running at 40% Official Website: https://medicgrow.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/medicgrowled Twitter: https://twitter.com/medicgrow Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/medicgrow420/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNmiY4F9z94u-8eGj7R1CSQ Growdiaries: https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow
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This girl was drinking a lot slower than the others I’m guessing she’s cooler in that corner at the base but either way growth was slower into bloom but now she has shot to an impressive 22-23” levelling out the canopy at the back! Can’t wait to see how these flowers form!
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I'm smoking this girl as I type this. I got 70g off the stem from the tops and some of the larger popcorn. The remainder of the popcorn and some tops were left to mature and boy did they. She has now been harvested in full and hung to dry alongside the banner. I'm hoping for another oz or so. I would love to yield over 100g from her. I'll post a harvest entry once the remainder is weighed up and jarred to cure. This girl is amazing. Thank you for your sacrifice 👏
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@DonKrika
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I still have problems with high levels of humidity, but I discovered that if I open the window of the room to let fresh air in I can reduce the humidity in the air. This week I introduced molasses in the water, I used 1 tablespoon for every 4L of water. From now on I will only use nutes and molasses. The buds are not huge, but they are full of trichomes. I saw a bit of nutrient burn on a few leaves, nothing to worry about, I guess PPM around 2000 is a bit too much for this strain. DAY 108 PH - 6.01 Solution Temp - 17.3 PPM-2150 Watering Volume per plant - 4L DAY 112 - Molasses PH - 6 Solution Temp - 19 PPM-610 Watering Volume per plant - 4L
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7/9/29 día 1 de floración Esto arranca amigos, por desgracia lo hace con unas temperaturas altísimas, con maximas de incluso 32 grados debido a la ola de calor que estamos sufriendo. Ya hemos montado el sistema de riego y lo hemos preogramado para regar durante 1min cada 4h durante el día. La solución la hemos preparado con los productos Cyco arriba descritos, con una ec de 1 y un ph de 6,1. Por otro lado nuestro jardín. Esta iluminado por 4 barras led 100w de solux, y un lec solux de 630w aunque por el momento está a 315w debido a las altas temperaturas. Para empezar la floración lo hacemos con una defoliación y una poda de ramas bajas. Estaremos atentos a cambios en las pequeñas para intentar mantener en cada momento la alimentación adecuada, sin carencia y sin excesos. No te lo pierdas!! 9/9/20 día 3 de floración Buenas, nuestras pequeñas se aclimatan bien a la nueva alimentación y a su nuevo medio. Aumentamos la ec del tanke a 1,1ec y seguimos manteniendo el ph a 6,1. Por otro lado las temperaturas parece que disminuyen por lo que pasamos el lec de 315w a 415w, manteniendo así unas temperaturas diurnas de entre 26 y 27 grados. Esperemos que continúen descendiendo hasta poder mantener las temperaturas a 23 grados durante todo el día. La humedad ronda el 40% y estaremos atentos para que no suba de ahí. Deja tu like y síguenos para no perderte nada. Buenos humos!! 11/9/20 día 5 de floración Nuestro cultivo avanza sin demasiados cambios, durante estos días se aprecia que las nenas aumentan su altura más rápidamente y los brotes se multiplican.seguiremos atentos para que todo siga su curso. Buenos humos.
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@heeelion
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Well sliding into another week, I'm checking the trichomes and waiting for them to go milky, not sure if i can just check leaves for that. That's what i have been doing. I've been told i'm waiting for a portion of at least half of the hairs to go an orange/bronze color. Weird blotches become more prominent on leaves that its visible (they are just in some leaves) less than half id say around 15 - 20% and less than half of those seem pretty bad. I would like to know the cause if its nutrient lockout or a disease etc. Or perhaps its normal for late stage flowering i do not know
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She is growing nice, the buds are getting fat, apparently i was expecting gorilla cookies to be the winner at the size of the buds until now, apparently i was wrong, amnezia has bigger buds than gorilla at this stage :) we will see who is going to be the winner... who you think is going to win?
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Day 21 From Sprout - Rez Change Overall, very happy with the development over this past week. The ones that were already looking good at now looking great! The couple of “weirdos” (strange development of leaf/node placement) both have decent roots but are growing slowly. The couple that initially were throwing out more “jagged” leaves seemed to have settled in and are looking good now. Only 1 (back right corner) is iffy. Roots are slowwwwly dropping out of the basket but not yet in the water. Going to keep It around for now and see what happens. Continuing with Mantis @ the “always” rate of 5 ml/L. They’re loving it! Several of the “great ones” have 5-6 nodes developed, so I’ll top them back to the 3rd more and start training into a manifold since I’m going to give some of the others time to catch up. I’ll decide on training for them as we go.
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Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.
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@J_diaz420
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Día 14 primer riego fertilizante vegetativo. Día 15 riego foliar con estimulador de floración delta 9. Día 18 riego con vegetación, floración y se cambia fotoperiodo a floración Total días vegetativos: 18 Comienza la floración 💪👌🍀
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@Schubsen
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Hey Growmies, we are at day 50 and getting first smells :) The mendo guava and guava sundae are my favorites… the banana guava should be fat Christmas tree :) but not that fast. The mendo Frost take it a bit slower than the rest, but she getting very early Frost..
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@Reaper
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day 15: flowers start to appear day 16-17: temps go 24 celcius, i throw ice bottles in the res day 25: insane stretch stops flowers fatten up, even crystals around the young budz.