Just started them all on the Green Buzz Liquid Organics and will run it the rest of the way. I'm not going to add much to the line just some calmag, enzymes maybe terpinator I have to experiment with it a little bit. The first feed went extremely well the plants instantly reacted within an hour after the feed especially the next day. The additives in this line barely raised PPM at all which I liked. It also doesnt stink like other liquid organics I've used. These are doing good the big one seems to be flowering faster than the first run from seed with this cut. The second one is still completely untrained and the 3rd one is the weakling. Day 21 of bloom. Added in a shot of the feed chart I'm using from G Buzz, white board is where I record the run off values especially during the flush👍

Começou a crescer rapidamente. O formato ficou estranho, eu realmente não sei manipular o LST. Até consegui que os ramos inferiores esticassem e ficassem mais cheios, mas é muito difícil segurar o ápice principal. Resolvi amarrar ele pra baixo logo depois dessas fotos. Vai fazer com que ela fique ainda mais densa, ramificada, mas pelo menos dar um respiro na altura. Ela tá crescendo rápido, todo dia preciso recuar um pouco o LED. O cheiro começou a exalar e está bem bom. Acho que em breve preciso reforçar o adubo com algo rico em fósforo e potássio.

Bald fertig :)

Endish week 8 - taken for safety - shame not to run to good trichomes - weight wise ok, don’t like too post weight very little leaf as you see

The plants are growing super fast, I know this is gonna be a beautiful run, they're gonna be awesome automatic plants, I've enjoyed working with other strain from this amazing autoflowers bank let's see what we can do! ❤️💚💛👨‍🌾

I enjoyed these autos quite a bit much more convenient for me, cbd wasn’t too resinous so the trim was much easier than my last experiences, having cbd bud nearby will be very useful.

Day 78. Girls is down. Dry trim chosen as to most smaller plants. Overall I am happy with Urban Legend brand, only Gorilla will be meh.... ;))) Day 88. Girl went to jars, amazing 62 g of her !!! Top quality all the plant through. We are testing it with my friend's wife and it's pure joy, think after cure I'll keep it pure for myself, no share ;))) Happy Growing !!!

She is getting big and her buds seems to get red, as i hoped. She produces many leaves and its hard to keep up defoliating especially in the lower parts. Her smell is really sweet and pleasant and i´m happy with my choice. 💪😋

The bigger plant is doing amazing, I supercropped the top branch and it instantly accepted it and the buds were reaching within the hour! The little guy I’m still not so sure about yet.

The plants are very healthy I am running the low feeding chart from Terra aquatica at the moment. Ec is 0,9 ph 5,8

Rough week for everybody...a solar bugstorm ensued and all the girls were ravaged to some degree. My mister fan hose busted and the temperatures were over 100f all week long. Still fighting grasshoppers..

13. März Bin froh dich weiter gemacht zu haben. Blüten entwickeln sich prächtig und auch die AK gewinnt mittlerweile an Volumen. Sie wirkt dennoch dauergestresst. Die Lampe brennt mittlerweile schon seit letzter Woche die vollen 100% runter. Die Nanners an der Purple Punch wurden stellenweise von neuem Blütenmaterial überwachsen. Wasser gibts mittlerweile alle zwei bis drei Tage drei Liter pro Topf. Vor allem die Ak trinkt wahnsinnig schnell und viel. Gefühlt würde ich behaupten sie kann sich nicht entscheiden woran sie leiden will: Wassermangel oder Sauerstoffmangel. Beides schwierig. Sowohl trockener Topf straft sie mit hängenden Blättern, nach jedem Gießen allerdings auch. Ein bis zwei Tage nach dem Gießen richtet sie sich wieder auf.

Corte día 91, después de 5 días de lavado de raíz, 2 primeros dias de lavado con flawless finish de advanced nutrients, 50 gramos de flores en húmedo se congelaron y use para hacer bho, el efecto es relajante y fuerte

May 26; entering week 4 so things will start happening soon. First few weeks it always looks like nothing is happening. Cool overnight temperatures also keep the growth a bit slow, but the weather is good and I’m sure there will be a big growth spurt very soon. Did weekly foliar spray of Extreme Blend from Kelp4less.com May 30: small watering with some Natures Source and molasses. Pretty warm at 27 C and Thunderstorm came at 9 pm. Plants had their hats on for protection. Nice rain with some serious thunder. ⛈️⛈️ May 31: another warm day with an evening thunderstorm. Plants protected. June 1: they got rained on today.

New week starts! ☀️25.10.2023 Spraiyng today only. ☀️27.10.2023 Norting today ☀️29.10.2023 I spraiyed a half of my garrden yesturday (they drinks different) with 'TA Tripart' in 80%of 'bloom' formula already. They keeps steretching and I want to do some extra LST for two days in the end of this week. ☀️31.10.2023 Crones of all my flowers grew back already. Their tops are cowered with many sweet budz. I like what I see. But I'm disturbing about a plant-to-lamp distance: it is too short. It's 30-31 c° already and I'm trying to keep low tempereture in my place. Also, now I'm using regular crane water instead of demineralised one. Week ends.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

. 🌱 Tag 28 - Eine Woche, die sich endlich wie Routine anfühlt Seit dem letzten Update ist eine Woche vergangen und trotz kleiner Unruhe in den letzten Durchgängen hat sich das Setup diesmal deutlich stabilisiert. Kein pH-Chaos, keine Mischfehler im Tank, einfach konstante Versorgung und gleichmäßiges Wachstum. Wir merken deutlich, dass sich unser Wachstum gerade verändert. Es geht nicht mehr nur darum, größer zu werden, sondern darum, Struktur aufzubauen. Die ersten Anzeichen der Blütephase sind da und der ganze Rhythmus verschiebt sich langsam in diese Richtung. Noch ist es kein kompletter Wechsel, eher ein Übergangszustand. Aber wir arbeiten sichtbar anders weiter als noch vor einer Woche. Wir wachsen weiterhin gleichmäßig und ohne Stresssignale. Die Blätter werden dichter, die Struktur klarer und intern passiert deutlich mehr, als man von außen direkt sieht. Diese Phase fühlt sich ein bisschen so an, als würden wir uns neu sortieren, bevor es richtig losgeht. Das Wasser und die Nährlösung passen aktuell gut zu uns. Der pH wird konsequent auf 5,7 eingestellt und driftet über ein bis zwei Tage auf etwa 6,3, wo er sich dann stabilisiert. EC liegt konstant im Bereich 1,6–1,8. Bisher kommen wir damit sehr gut klar und zeigen keine negativen Reaktionen. 👨‍🌾 Gärtner: Diese Woche war unangenehm unspektakulär. Ich hab mittlerweile den Dreh mit dem Wasser wirklich raus. pH-Management läuft inzwischen bewusst und reproduzierbar, nicht mehr nach Gefühl und Hoffnung. Die anfänglichen Probleme durch Hydrogencarbonate im Leitungswasser sind jetzt eingeplant statt überraschend. Wichtigste Erkenntnis der letzten Tage: Wenn man den pH sauber auf 5,7 einstellt und die EC-Spanne 1,6–1,8 hält, ist das System deutlich weniger anfällig. Der leichte pH-Anstieg über 1–2 Tage auf ~6,3 ist inzwischen kein Problem mehr, sondern einfach ein bekanntes Verhalten des Systems. Nichts, was Panik auslöst. Eher so ein: „Ja gut, du bist halt so“-Moment gegenüber dem Wasser. Und das eigentlich Beste: Die Pflanzen reagieren darauf bisher stabil und ohne Beschwerden.