Week 7 and time to flip these bitches into flower, given them a defol which last time I think I took much more off but I think I’ve taken enough off and il strip them again at day 21 of flower.... got light leak here and there in my old rickety shed lol so gonna get the caulk gun out seal anything I can see, set the timer to 12/12 and we’re off 👍🏼

day 15 shes a bit more ahead than plant nr 1. looking good! day 18 shes also stretching a lot! shes actually the tallest at this moment xD

Week 11-12 going good alot of Leaf growth had to trim to prevent mold ..looking

03/10/2021 Drastically clipped, and cracked two tops to train as a type of manifold, she will be reppotted next week and then flower. Second picture shows what I'm going for

9/9 Still looking for the cause of the top fading only on the light colored phenos think its P will address tomorrow, want a couple more weeks from these guys at least. 9/10 Looking better top dressed the Happy Frog 3 tbs/plant watered with Bio-Bloom 3tsp /gal and Big Bloom 3tsp/gal 9/13 D62 Just finishing the week things are pretty stable. Nuet issues resolved and buds building nicely taking on a more fuzzy appearance with straight new growth hairs. Pics at lights out if I remember Looking at 9/27 for a harvest date or at least its penciled in on the calendar. Next feed is full

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

Day 42 350ml plain rain Well sh*t - prob moved to next set lower fans - to be expected - don't take leaves off a sick plant! anyhoo - only took 5 off - so: Def got calmag probs - overfed that - def got potassium prob - Q is still "Over or Underfeed" A is still F knows Mitigating factors are [A] that she has a lot of flower and could be crying out for nutes [B} I did misread nutes and for first 6wks was overfeeding in conflict w premix soil [C] Stardawg had exact same nutes schedule and is NOT showing signs and [D] mycorrhizal addition to soil caused probs in bot Forbidden Runtz and Stardawg - so it could be chemlock - which would be the worst coz flush only solution and I don't flush! pH 6.9 rH 45-55 Temp 22-27C Solutions: 1] H2O diet for wk and monitor - check - (day2: lower leaves further displaying calmag/potassium/phosphorous signs) 2] Nitrates to solve potassium - top dress may help - but again, I think I've overfed in conflict with soil premix, so... 3] Calmag burn is almost certainly overfeed - minimize and monitor that when nutes reintroduced << OK - basically I must have a chemlock because I have overfed but almost as importantly - the watering schedule [I water every morning under 24hr] does let the soil dry every day - some plants can handle it - Stardawg can as well as Big Bud - FR can't. So Will give her double H2O for cpl days and see. Will also pH adjust - she is in range for everything for absorption but nit if getting repeated daily chemlock - so might as well pH adjust if semi-flushing >> << Decision >> Right, I have got some serated edge tip burn in next level fans - these being last indica factory leaves - those of the lower level I left on are sick as and will come off, but leaving everything else on. She didn't seem to mind the flush - put gallon through in two goes (one was her daily water) - not much leaf twisting - buds looks good and I think that is the point ... they're doing fine from the over nute - but the veg material not so. Going to repeat flush tomorrow am but only 1/2 gal and leave her to dry out and then back to her h2O diet till Day 7 [tomorrow am will be day 3] btw flush pumped rH up to 60 so had to leave doors open all day 😕 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< AAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHH 😞😠>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Just been going over leaves after defoliating and found.... spider mites .... not nutrient based and not WPM thank the stars. Referring to the grow diaries collective - need advice Well - defoliated heavily - now know - it is wk 2/3 flowering and I was holding off on defoliating Just in Case it was chemlock BUT now I know I would be removing the most infested leaves - I went nuts and did a full sativa stage defoliate - irony is if I did it straight away this might not have happened. Gotta give props to BraveHeartGenetics - genius solution and will be borrowing my friends little handheld vacuum - she is a clean freak so will be perfect, Wind power very clean solution. Video in honor of BraveHeartGenetics - I need a joint now. Day 43 Well the spider mites are def under control. Vacuumed plants. was fine - used a dyson handheld with wide hose so could get whole leaf in without it flailing around against sides and getting damaged. Got her hands to the sky for first time in ages - good to see. Hopefully the defoliation also helps get her back in the groove - now know it's not totally nutrient based - that said of course mites screw with transpiration and chlorophyll levels so you know - not great - but hopefully over. Further to this I added a fan and a dehumidifier w 600ml capacity -should be enough to make the climate tough for mites. The last 24hrs can go screw themselves, but got some great advice so grateful as 😊 No water and suspended flushing - she looks happier I will still keep theH2O diet going and of course check for mites regularly Day 44 350ml plain rain water. Hands to the sun! omg she hasn't looked this good in wks! thank the stars 😅 Day 45 300ml plain rain - - pic she's a bit droopy but she's still having transpiration probs and has just been watered - she'll manage Day 46 300ml plain rain she still looked a little forlorn so I got the loupe out and sure enuff - more beasties. <<SO>> Got my vacuum out and cleaned the nozzle - it is an unregulated (sssshhh not v green) 1700W monster about twenty yrs old - Vacuuming your Bud [METHOD] I found it necessary to go at the buds from the side as well as top down (don't vacuum from underneath even though that's where the beasties are - I didn't even try - you will damage the plant) The nozzle was big enough to encapsulate a whole bud and it's leaves - so I repeated this motion [ahem] 1/2 dozen times and moved onto next bud I vacuumed every bud in this manner After, I checked known sites with my loupe I saw no mites - but some larvae still there So I vacuumed all again in same manner After final check I saw no larvae - I'm sure there are some remaining [RESULT] Leaf damage - very little - any heat/nute damaged tips got frayed, but the leaf veins / structure / stomata - underside leaf hairs / trichomes / pistils - no damage at all. OVERALL health condition of plant after vacuuming compared to as found: 9/10 AMMNDMNT << 6/10 >> FEED HER AFTER! Very few mites on plant & bonus: all the leaves are now conveniently 'hands to the sky'. OVERALL effectiveness in removing mites: 8/10 [CONCLUSION] I think the plant thoroughly loves this - provided it is not a routine affair, it is left in it's healthy pose - with most of a parasite removed. That said, I think it is a process that requires repeating, like a course of antibiotics; twice a day for a number of days - or spaced over several days between vacuuming, perhaps in accordance with / dictated by... spider mite life cycle. Finally - I know it sounds counter intuitive but DO use a POWERFUL Vacuum - The handheld Dyson 300 Whilst ok, just didn't do as well as my full size 1700W - result being I didn't significantly affect the mite numbers - thus a waste of time 8 hrs later she is looking fine - will repeat tomorrow Day 47 No vacuuming today - ADDED CONCLUSION - I f you have to do this - FEED her afterwards - with maybe a protracted dark spell She is looking so sick - the upside of the leaf damage you can't see but also expect she robbed her leaves of nutes as she has got lock out Going to put her in the dark for a bit - got photos will update after She had 3:1000ml Big Bloom 2:1000 Tiger Bloom Grow Big 1:1000 Calmag in 400ml plain rain water Day 48 No watering to day She actually looks good - checked her over for mites again - all clear - in evening thought maybe even a bit more color to her - maybe just lights were dimmed lol

Well this was quite an experience, from the nice box the dutch passions come in to the germination , vigours sprouts came about, and took well to transplant. Potted each of these into their own soil and peat mix, layered seven of each i think with perlite. they got CELLMAX soil, best soil I've ever used for sure, it's horticultural soil so it's been steamed meaning no pollutants and no pests. The room itself this time i had reworked a bit, still loads of bends on the tubes though, but had a proper intake this time with a fine mesh filter so nothing got into the room. Had the pots elevated only by the time flower came around same for the CO2 so I only had a few good weeks with it. Didn't kill the plants though, so I'll review using it in my Six shooter diary, check it out . Anyway these plants veged out , and in the first weeks had the light too high for how strong/weak it was (it's crazy how close you need to have it actually!) and the little seedlings stretched some, so I LST'ed all of them. They all took to LST really well actually. The biotabs plant was the first one to sort of musle through her bindings, and i ended up feeling sorry for it and removing them thinking the bend was mostly done anyway. It didn't help that this was a corner plant and I just didnt really have access to it as nicely as the others. Anyway the LST wasnt done though and the plant fully redressed showing only a little bend towards its base at harvest time. The Mr. B's showed the best results on LST. It got bent 90° then grew out but managed to stick it's main cola out just in time i guess, so it had several mains maybe 3 maybe 4 and several side shoots. The Vertafort one took to LST the worst of the three (through no fault on vertafort's nutrient's part!) It basically got bent 90° but got held down too much by the bindings , and being a corner plant simply it got less light the whole grow, being overtaken by the other plants in the tent. Through veg though these grew to nice busheles, each in their own style, pushing out fat indica leaves , mostly being kept at appropriate VPDs. Note that the temps i've recorded are for maximum temperatures hey ! Anyway it I ended up with an uneven canopy by the start of flower stretch due to the different LST styles and the different growth rates, the vertafort one being basically stunted. During flower stretch these stretch ! lol doubled in size at a steady rate I can tell because the biotabs one was basically no longer LST'ed right? Anyway way blueberry styles not so much auto gsc styles that much I can tell you. The longer side colas a great too, they're much longer than the GSC's side colas and they have two or more flower nodes more each. By week 4 of flower the Mr. B's started to look pro, with a nice canopy and several distinguishable mains sticking out from the bush. The vertafort one was a corner plant so I just paid less attention to it - too bad for me ! Anyway the flowers themselves started to emerge with a calyx to larf ratio of 1:0 for the biotabs ones, and I started getting stoked. I could already tell from the squeeze that these would be nice and dense nuggy nug nugs just like I like them. The Mr.B's one was different though, the flowers grew all up and down the colas like they were all filled up. The sugar leafs themselves were like non-existant on Mr.B's but long and thin on the Mr.B's. Then the stacking began, last quite a while to finish up and rippen, i'd say from week 8 through 13. The trichomes reached out, filled up some, curled, in and were full white. I noticed some amber trichomes and it was time for the chop ! Throughout the grow I tried something new. From joining GD on my first grow I got loads of goodies from @Mrs_Larimar with the Mr.B's nutrients - thank you so much ! - and the biotabs contest , plus the Vertafort that came with seeds from the folks at Zambeza, Zamnesia, and RQS , all of these were dry nutrients, and I got those micro nutrients from my friends too. Great experience using dry nutrients, much more affordable on the whole, easier to measure too. That didnt stop me from messing up a few measures though ! So For most of the grow I planned to add my own micro. I had four micro powders made. One green one for early veg with all the "rare metals" in it at 2% , a bio cal mag, white powder for veg and early flower and a cal mag and mag sulfur I meant to use during flower. So I ended up giving a quarted dose of the organic cal mag most of the time then in flower still had them on a quarter dose of cal mag sulfur before i realised and switched up too late. My whole micro line up i think would cost 10 dollars retain and I had plenty of it left over i think it should last like 4 grows. Not that I'll use it again unless i can get a steady supply - a the travails of the underground micro nutrient market. Worked great though, pH neutral, i used it as spray too, next time I'll mix in humic acid directly in the same feed, because why not and because I would have massively helped. Sometimes in flower i used only calmagsulfur and maybe I didnt mix it in very well but i would dump everything on anyway , a couple time I would check after water and the clumps had formed like 3 inch crystal formations on the top of my soil... Anyone ever seen that before? maybe it's a good sign idk, i usually tried plain water to dissolve them asap. The biotabs worked great on the Colorado cookies though, that much I can say, no excesses of any sort detected, leaves weren't too dark green at all. Mr.B's turned out a BEAST , but that could be from the LST aswell... the vertafort one ended up being a very healthy plant that never lacked anything either. Around halfway through flower I started traing the colas upwards where they were drooping on the biotabs plants and the Mr.b's plant, glad i did because i think plants like to make colas going straight up right? Chopped these at the top of week 14 which is 95 days from the moment i dunked them into the water kept a calendar which I'll show you. Hung to dry for 10 days, then jarred with the 62% boveda, burped inspected daily for a week, then weekly for two weeks. I weighted what I kept lol , no small buds this time, finally my grower dream realized ! So happy i got two (maybe three phenos) because I loved the flowers on the biotabs but I also loved the yielding of the LST'ed pheno. Plenty of wasted cola space though if I'm honest, should have defoliated more, maybe done that just at the edge of veg or something, maybe next time I'll try to flux like @silky_smooth so I can keep them in veg longer and make me a couple beasts. Had to travel to for two halfway through, so what I did was to put perlite in the trays, get the pots off their grills and onto the perlite then i bottom fed plain water, the idea being that the perlite would keep the water from evaporating from the trays too quickly, just as i was loading up the trays , the nex day I saw three thrips but they were flying all wierd and all strange so i thought maybe the airflow was f-ing them up ... and i had to leave anyway. Got back and the pots were bone dry but the plants hadn't died, and the temps were way up. I think the remaining perlite absorbs heat... Anyway started top feeding them again but by this time they were showing signs of stress especially the biotabs one, the mr.b's kinda recovered, and the vertafort was healthy enough it just looked like a bit of magnesium issue. May this could be a good technique for other folks to try. Like i said the perlite might absorb heat, so remove it when you dont need it anymore (i had issues with heat). Over all these gens are yielders, had some of my best work in here, and some less good work. I like having been able to use the GD platform as a companion app, was great fun really. it's great to be able to put all your pictures up and see them side by side, i tried to keep it organised so you and I can see some interesting things like the "three stages of LST" and other interesting nuggets of info. Speaking of nuggets I'll try to get some more and some better pics of the nugs in. Hope you'll visit this again 🚀 EDIT: made some bubble hash for the first time, grower's priviledge ! only used the stems stalks and leafs for it, and it came out really delicious, smells like perfume, burns like incense and tastes like vanila and spices/hash lol basically used some bubble bags , rand the water through once, got negligeable 120s 75s and 45s but got some 25 quite a lot. ran it again, same results with just about the same amout of 25s, i thought i could go a third one, but got negligeable everything lol. Two passes for whatever that is in bubble hash lol, it's still got to dry for another week - bubble hash is kinda of the grower's priviledge, definitely recommend doing it ! 🚀

Esta fue una de mi primer cosecha con éxito, esperaba una mayor producción, y mejores efectos y sabor, pero para ser la primera ves esta muy bien 👏🏻 aún me quedan un par de semillas, la próxima ves espero crecerla mejor.

1st week of flushing has made some of the the plants have purple appear on the stalk, leaves, and even the tips of some parts of the flower. Been looking more into good drying and curing technology to ensure a fine finished product. 1 more week of flushing then harvest.

Premium cannabis organic Thailand By RICHSANFARMORGANIC100%

I flushed my monster plant we are starting late flowering so i wanna make sure that there is no nutrient build up. And to make sure that shes gonna end up like a Bomb. Smell is good but not too strong. So the plant is perfect i have nothing to say

Fue como la semana anterior sigo alternando riegos con abono si abono no y esta semana uno de los días se me quedó la luz encendida y tuvieron 36 horas seguidas de luz, espero no les pase nada grave. Por lo demás todo bien

This is the final week of nutes for the ladies! Time to flush her for the coming week. Also read that Purple Punch needs cold temps at night to turn color. Since I can't do that where I live, an alternative is to flush her with ice water. Giving that a try and will keep you guys updated.

They took a while but they all popped out!

She grew from 6cm last week to 26cm this week! I fimmed her partway through the week. She's starting to take on a nice bushy structure. 💪