Finalizamos la quinta semana de floración de manera extraordinaria 💯🏆

I think I've over waterd her Abit so I'm going let her dry up over the next few days. It's not heat or lack of or light stress or over power of nutes or lack of nutes as the other one is fine. I've seen other diaries where some are deformed but I think with this one it's growers error

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

All g .

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

420 Fastbuds Week 7 Gorilla Zkittlez Auto What up grow fam. These two lovely girls are growing absolutely beautifully. Staying on the shorter side but wow have the flower sites grown. The smell is strong and sweet. I upped the tds to about a 1000 but will dial it back down in the up coming weeks as they finish up. All in all Happy Growing

Update Tag 8 seit der Keimung 🌱 Die Aufnahmen stammen zwar schon von Freitag, aber heute gibt’s das verspätete Update 😉 Aktuell gönnen sie sich noch ihren Mittagsschlaf erst ab 16 Uhr geht bei den Kleinen die Sonne wieder auf ☀️ @gfseedbank @biobizzwwo @panova25.de #krauti_outdoorfarm

VPD 0.8-1.2

Feeding to run off. ph 6.0-6.3 Not much new to note. Buds still sticky and smelly. Humidify has been kinda higher this week with the rain my area has been having.

nothing to say, she is doing good. 2 weeks to go

Week 3 day 1

Vamos familia, actualizamos la octava semana de floración de estas Thunder Banana de Seedstockers, salieron las 3 de 3, 100% ratio éxito. Aplicamos varios productos de Agrobeta, que son increíbles para aportar una buena alimentación a las plantas. Temperatura y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos dentro de la etapa de floración. La tierra utilizada es al mix top crop, por cambiar. De 3 ejemplares seleccioné los 2 mejores para completar el indoor, cambié el fotoperiodo a 12/12 y también apliqué una poda de bajos, se ven bien sanas las plantas, tienen un buen color progresan a muy buen ritmo por el momento, las flores han tricomado que da miedo. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨.

10/29 Week 9 and she is doing great Continue to keep an eye on the trics not there at all yet Increased her light by moving a plant to another tent and focusing the the 3 LEDs on her. Time to change the nuets she is entering the home stretch. Dropping koolbloom increasing Peak and fish shit/recharge leaving bloom nuets as is just for now. The plan is currently to shift nuets to organic-ish and then just go on water only through finish, couple of days. Will continue to runoff twice a day so all salts continue to be removed. The idea is to allow her to finish clean without starving her, see how it goes. 10/30 Biology should be established, dropping recharge reducing fish shit she is ready to shift. Adding Organic Bloom nuets, strong dose initially (15 ml/gal) then 5ml/g from there. Cocotek reduced today gone tomorrow. See what happens shall we? 10/31 Nuets switched A single feed of heavy nuets and bugs then listed feeds twice a day to runoff as a flush - this is to see if any advantage, watching buds closely, still building, trics not ready still far too many clear of course. She may be a little slow but she needs to finish next week space is at a premium so hoping she finishes faster this way for one thing. Enough stress in the change so should get similar responses from the plant. PH to 6.2 Going to end the Si, no further need of it 11/1 Bud growth really popped over night, noticeable which is great considering the late stage of flower. Continuing on with this feed for today, see how it goes. Update: Looks good going to just water 1 gallon twice a day 10-20% runoff Looked at trics close about 90% white some clear a few amber, very sativa ready large improvement in just a couple days. Last week Ivy two three days

Flying along now All tied up lights on 100% Just sit back and watch now 👍🏻

For sure i will keep this plant in stock. Very different and potent head high with great looking buds and strong flavor.

Chopped on day 76 from when it was planted into soil. It was always scraggly and would remind me of the gimp hand dude in scary movie 2. It pushed along. It's aesthetically pleasing and a smooth smoke but I won't be growing it again. Not a fan of the high or anything else. Will sit on the shelves in grove bags until smashed into concentrate. I ended up with roughly 42 grams dry weight.

Well topping her most certainly paid off!! I got two huge Colas...awesomeness!! She was a pleasure to grow so far... Since she is a chuy Sativa she seems to have produced almost frost everywhere!

She is the slowest to flower and not stretching much but looking good. I am still pulling a few leaves off her every day because she wants to be bushy. I gave each plant a 10 gallon flush and fresh nutrients. Started them on liquid koolbloom. Nutrients per gallon .75 tsp maxibloom .2 tsp liquid koolbloom .5 tsp calimagic .25 tsp armor si .1 tsp 90/10 humic/fulvic acid