Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Week Harvest My journey of Runtz Automatic and her entrance in the Eternity Grow Cup 2025 began on January 7 when she popped her head above the soil. Runtz was an easy carefree plant to grow with no incidents of pests or disease. A few defoliations were all that was necessary to keep her in check. I kept her under a light schedule of 18/6 to maximize her light exposure. After topping her she grew only 24 inches tall. This small plant structure is suitable for growers with limited space. She was harvested on March 20, day 74 from germination. As part of the flushing process, I topped the pot with ice, then watered with ph 6.5-6.7 water for 3 days. Then I put Runtz Auto in the dark for 2 days still in her pot. March 20, she got the chop, Wet weight 314g and is hanging dry in a darkened room. As she dries, candy, sweet, fruity smells escape the room. Temps are 71-72and 43-48% humidity. I am sure she is as tasty as she smells and will not disappoint in effects. My sincere thanks to Patricia @Zamnesia for her support and encouragement throughout this grow. Big thanks and sincere appreciation to Plagron and Zamnesia for hosting this fun and exciting contest. Everyone entering the contest started with the same strain in either a feminized auto or photoperiod seed. Zamnesia generously provided 5 seeds to everyone and Plagron provided the Green Sensation flowering additive. During this contest I enjoyed visiting many contestants’ diaries and seeing beautiful gardens. Many, like me, are limited in space or number of plants they can grow but all are displaying fine specimens. Some Runtz phenotypes are very sativa dominant, with long thin leaf fingers, while others lean more indica. What will be most interesting will be the smoke reports on effects. My theory is that the more sativa leaning in structure, the more active, energetic and euphoric that plant will be and the indica leaning specimens will be more relaxing and uplifting. Your likes and comments are appreciated. Thanks for stopping by. Growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

Hi all👨‍🌾👋 Welcome to my another week update Hope everyone keeping well 🧑‍🌾 Week 6 Mar 8 - Mar 14 It was another easy and exciting week. Everything going absolutely great. Both girls stretched nicely despite selective defoliation on Mar 9. They bounced back almost immediately. Started adjusting mixtures towards removing fish mix completely and replacing with Bio grow. In coming week will adding bio bloom and top max to mixture. There was 2 waterings of 3ltr on Mar 9 + last foliar feeding and second on Mar 13 and it was first large feeding 6 ltr beetwen both. Surprisingly only a few drops of runoff. Watering in stages of approx. 500ml every 20-30min. Decided to not install a scrog this time as want to have opportunity to apply more old school methods of training and to be able to remove/rotate girls easily. Let's see if this will pay me off. So far girls enjoying my care very much 😁🧑‍🌾 Thank you very much for all your likes, follows and comments. 🙏💚❤️💜 Wishing you all amazing rest of the week✨🍀 Peace and love brothers and sisters 👨‍🌾✌️💚 Stay tuned for new week update soon Links https://2fast4buds.com/seeds/TROPICANA-COOKIES-AUTO https://www.biobizz.com/ https://fishheadfarms.com/

busy week, went from nursery bags to the final pots (3 gal airpots). autowatering system set up, fertigating 4x per day for 20secs each time - @ light ons, +5 hrs, +5 hrs, +5 hrs. went up to ~310 PAR, about 20 DLI. 1200 EC, 6.0 PH. temp and humidity pretty consistent, around 80 during the day, 76 at night. VPD is 0.8 - 1.0. topped, trimmed everything under node 3 and started LST on nodes 3 and 4 preparing for quadline. going to take a couple of days to bounce back after the topping but then I expect to see some nice growth. planning on running the quadlines out until they get close to the other plants and then I'll flip to flower and stretch upwards. have a new humidifier coming this week and switching everything over to the AC infinity controllers, as right now I have a mish-mash of controllers and a humidifier that doesn't work with them, so I should really be able to dial everything in even better. upgraded my timelapse camera to a 2k one, still trying to dial it in, fix software issues and stop moving it to get better video. getting there

i did manage to burn 1 Cookies RBX #2 and my Gorilla Breath 😅 wasn't paying to much attention to my propogator. No worries they Will be fine. Rock on Growmies 💚

Flowering day 50 Hey guys 😀 Today there is also a nice video for the week. It was the last time the fertilizer was increased to 1250 ppm. After that, it is slowly driven down again to mature. Enjoy the update 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 http://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/ affiliate/madelngermany_passiongrower/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

Time to stretch her out!

Flush time! I don't pump loads of water through each pot any more, now they're sitting on a tray without drainage. I've found feeding non ph'd water in the same amounts I've been giving them throughout still allows them to cannibalise, locking out any nutrients immediately now they're being given non ph'd water. I've done this for long enough to be able to confirm no difference in the overall flush, the taste or smell, or a negative impact on the plants. Personally I find it a waste of time and ph down when the goal is to stop them feeding on the nutrients in the medium, but rather the nutrients stored in the plant. I always feed only water for 2-3 weeks, never less. The Runtz are swelling, with huge cola's on some of them. Even the little Runtz runts have stacked well and getting thick! Unfortunately only getting an earthy, piney smell from all of them. Was expecting a nice strong fruity profile, so a bit disappointed. The huge flowers make up for it a bit, but I do prefer a more tastier smoke, I can't deny! 🦊

Muy buenas familia está semana van tirando muy bien una de ellas ya está empezando a mostras sus cogollos ala otra todavía le quedan unos días tengo dudas en cuando empezar a echarle engorda cogollos al ser auto floreciente y en teoría en 60- 65 días estria lista no se cuñado ponerlo o si ponerle si alguien me echa una mano encantado 😁en una semanita nos estamos viendo buenos humos familia paz

ill add info soon

Que pasa familia, otra vez estamos actualizando otra semana más y es que es la primera semana de floración, ahí van todos los ejemplares echando ese último estirón. Al tener varios tamaños decidí poner otro armario y estarán en 2 armarios uno de 150W y otro de 100w todo Mars hydro. Añadí big bud y bud candy a las dosis de riego , así fomentaremos y estimularemos la floración de los ejemplares. El ph siempre regulado y de margen entre 6.2 /6.5 por lo demás nada nuevo. Nada más hasta aquí es todo , buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Spent some time just defoliating the girls last night, tried not to go too far but you get lost😂 Also did some Pruning/Lollipoping to Increase that airflow 💨 Happy so far! Stinking now

First day went as expected. I put the paper towel in a small see-thru plastic container and put it on the table. With a bit of water and the seeds in side, the germination has now started! Day 2 no progression, moved the tray into my furnace room (pitch black and warm) Day 3 major progression. I got them out and started to prep the jiffy pellets. Shortly after I transferred the roughly half inch tarp roots with seeds into the jiffy pellets, root down, seed up, slightly covered with dirt. I soaked them in water (like a beginner i overwatered heavily knowing what I know now). I placed them back in the tray and put them at a window for light. (Note) the plan was to do outdoor so no light or tent was ordered at this point. Day 4-7 not much progression seeing as the clouds and rain showed up...

Ernte nach 64Tagen. Für den falschen ph wert ganz akzeptabel. Auch erst mein 1ter richtiger grow. Hat spaß gemacht. Nächstes mal wird einiges besser. Wenn die blpten fertig sind gibts noch mehr bilder.

Starting to show signs of flowers had do give her a really good defoliating just keeps getting so bushy but it's Starting to look as if I know what I'm doing as well 😂 getting exited now to see what the buds will look like anyway until next week thanks guys 🙏

29.01.2021. DAY 15 19:30 Frankenstein is already showing sex. Must be a world record :) . Noticed one fungus gnat flylier but still not doing anything about since is only one, maybe it came from outside. Keeping an eye on that flying bastards. Letting soil dry out as much as I can because fungus gnats lay eggs only on wet soil. Plant #2 is bigger than frankenstain and still not showing sex. 30.01.2021. DAY 16 23:50 Watered both plants with 1L of bottled water with 2ml rhizotonic, 3ml cannazym, 1ml terra vega(1/4 recommended normal feeding) - ph 6.5 - ppm 250. Started LST on both plants. Small crack on #2 plant from LST - my mistake, I didnt take my time and I rushed it :( . She will grow out of it its not a big deal but still mad at myself :). 31.01.2021. DAY 17 08:30 Both plants perking back up after LST. 01.02.2021. DAY 18 19:30 Some more LST. I managed to get the courage to bend plant #2 more, because it has a crack on the main stem :) .Plants are growing more horizontally now and I'm very happy about how they look now. I have a plan where each branch is going to be roughly. We will se how I manage flowering stretch :) . Lights lowered to 32cm from plants top. 02.02 2021 DAY 19 22:00 Watered with 1.2L of bottled water with 2.2ml of rhizotonic and 2.8ml of cannnazym. Ph 6.5 ppm 200. Both have very slight nute burn on the tips of the new growth. It's because of only 1ml of terra vega that i fed them last time. So they dont need nutes yet. Next watering will be with more water because think that around 1L of water did not penetrate deep enough for whole soil to be wet. Still don't know how much water to use next time. If someone who has similar setup and reading my diary can help be free to comment :) 03.02 2021 DAY 20 19:00 Did some more LST. Plants really enjoyed watering from yesturday. They were very happy :). Now after LST not so much :) 03.02 2021 DAY 20 22:00 Checked on the plants and saw plant #2 topped herself just below third node :( . I bent her over just a bit too much it seems. Really a shame. Both plants were looking perfect with the cannopy open and flat. I taped her up with duck tape and we will se how it goes. 04.02 2021 DAY 21 22:00 Plant #2 that has a broken main stem is doing nothing. No development on her at all. She is not turning yellow or growing at all. I hope she will recover. No thing new to add. Still very much depresed because I broke the stem :)

The girl is suffering, it's too tight for her, too little co2, well, but the green color is increasing :D what I hope will promote her growth :).