Very terpy smell, strong and very citric like a pure lemon, very lemony smell basically, nothing crazy but it's very nice, she's producing a lot of resin, you can see she's a good autoflower, not the bets I've grown but it's nice to have something to Harvey's fast. 100% organic grown

So thus is how the ladies are looking at the end of Week 2, day 24 from Seed. So I have transplanted the ladies into their final pots and I have uploaded a video for you guys to see. Happy Growing guys, any questions just ask away. 👍🏾🌱💚😎

Still not much nug growth. Waiting on heat mat order to arrive. New diaphragm pump working a lot better on the Netafim emitters.

Continuing flush. Planning on harvest this week. Started the flush a bit early on the CBD and probably should have chopped a week ago, but lesson learned. Both plants have a bit of yellowing on the sugar leaves and the tops of the buds (especially the CBD feel a bit crisp and are browning. Hopefully won't affect much other than appearance since this is just for personal use anyway! Will update soon with the harvest details once the initial drying is done.

Mandarin XL auto has just been switched to ph water for her flush week. Her next update will be her harvest. She has a sweet orange smell. Everything is looking good for a harvest. Thank you Ganja Farmer, Medic Grow, and Gen1:11. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Topped once, turned off IR @ nights, slowed vertical growth back down, and took off both of the very lowest internodes on each plant. Eisenia fetida Stratiolaelaps scimitus Armadillidium vulgare Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison when using synthetic delivery, which can cause plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing. ATP is important when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" nutrient uptake rather than traded. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. Not sure if I butchered that but one can hope It makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic soil because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't really grow; we facilitate energy conversions, and energy is just numbers. Because the universe works the same way today as it did yesterday, there is a single, fundamental mathematical quantity that remains constant. We call this quantity energy. You cannot put "energy" under a microscope. You observe matter and forces (like heat, motion, or light), but energy is just a scalar number calculated to help predict how these things will change and interact. When an object falls, or when a battery powers your phone, matter shifts and changes form. Through it all, the universe ensures the "total score" of the numbers remains exactly the same. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. NPK & all the rest 3-5%. Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

A perfect end for a perfect plant. I harvested her after 13 weeks and she looks great! She smells strong and i cant get enough from her smell. She taste like tropical fruits with a little hint of gas.

Servus Moin! Die MDC #2 wurde diese Woche in 9L umgetopft. Direkt zu beginn hat sie Green Power AIO Dünger von MaryJanesGrowshop bekommen.

Did LST and topped Pheno 1 & 2, 3 is too funky to mess with. I think PH was just my issue and possible too high intensity light as I lowered to 60%, but also brought my PH to 6.5 so I'm guessing that helped too.

WEEK#9 DAY#56 :She could use some water . Easy going grow , slow vertical climb multi-lateral branching . I could selectively prune to encourage vertical growth but at this time I think the grow is going fine . I anticipated the plant being larger at this time athough I’ve never grown this strain before to know what to expect I think another 4-6 weeks of VEG will do her nothing but JUSTICE . Still watering to make those dry amendments available . After these 28-31 days we’ll transplant her into her final 6gallon pot . Or atleast I think that will be her final pot I see the benefit of stepping up pot size gradually and honesty think the growth is healthier when done that way I’m just being lazy and don’t feel like up-potting 3 or more times . I just wanna make small adjustments and move on ya know ? Week#9Day#56Update: 2/3 older girls showing signs of flushing, there’s heavy yellowing top of the plant & purple hues beginning to show. The two of them should have 3-4 weeks left & the buds have not even began to swell yet so I’m worried I missed my feeding time after I gave them nute burn beginning of flower so my fear is that my bud won’t swell & I’ve just jacked up my harvest the last half of flower. I’m going to try & get small amounts of nutes in there to help the bud develop without giving too much to mess up the end of flower flush . The final older girl isn’t showing any signs of flush it is the smallest of the 3 & therefore perhaps did not consume as much food as the other 2 girls is all I can think considering all three ladies soil came from the same batch of premixed “soil” they weren’t individually mixed It’s almost time to get these older girls out & get some note-worthy shots of “Cellie” growing All ALONE into this 5x5. Heavy heavy heavy defoliation. Will pony-tail when the fan leaves grow back out Week#9 Day#63 Update: started pony tailing her tops that are large enough to pin back without decapitating/severing the top . The top dress feeding I gave her still hasn’t become plant available yet. She’s still yellowing . I’ll be glad to see her park back up & continuing growing on. I purchased some worm castings I’ll top dress with a few tablespoons before watering her in & see if that perks her up until the Gaia Green is broken down. Shes almost tall enough to come down off that 1gall bucket even before transplant into a 6gal planter like the older girls finishing up .

Hi all, Welcome to my 🍌💜👊 week update. Thank you so much for your all support on this bananas journey 💜💚💜💚 Week 12 Jan 1 - Jan 7 I am so happy seeing how my girls are developing. All it's going great. 2 waterings of 8ltr on 03/01 no runoff and second on 06/01 9.5ltr! Runoffs PH at 6.2. Purchased larger dehumidifier and installed on 03/01 instantly humidity decreaseed from 55-59 to 50-55 on avg. and at night from 62-69 to 54-60. Light from 01/01 on max power output 110 watts. Nutes slightly adjusted. Buds on both girls gaining size, weight. Trichomes on Athena mostly milky and clear with only very few ambers. Xena mostly 50/50 clear and milky, They are smelling gorgeously, not sure if I should smoke or eat them first. Next week will still feed with nutes and keep an eye on trichomes development but it seems that girls are not in a hurry at all. That's okay me neither 😁 Stay tuned for next week entry very soon! Peace and love brothers and sisters ✌️💚 Links https://2fast4buds.com/seeds/banana-purple-punch-auto https://plagron.com https://www.biobizz.com/ https://fishheadfarms.com/

Tapering nutes off for the flush. Also added a small amount of Barley as a top dress to help her finish off.

Overall great experience. Felt that these auto were real easy to grow, with not many issues to fix.

Took some more foliage off, she is about 95 cloudy 5 amber on the tops so we got like 1 or 2 weeks left before the chop, started slowing down on the nutes and just topping the rezzy with water and will start flushing 2 days before I decide to harvest but I think we will call her good next Sunday and chop at 16 weeks if everything is looking good!

topped August 28th 2018

30-08-20. 7 días sin tocar nada por vacaciones. Se comido toda solución y se nota que la planta 1 está más alta. Las planta 1 y 2 han empezado a florecer. La planta 3 sigue en crecimiento. Se cambia de solución y se lava las raíces. Se baja 0.2 ms y PH 6.5. Luego se vuelve alimentar con una solución como hay en los datos de esta semana. 31-08-20 Conduc: 1.95 ms PH: 5.8 Temp: 24°C 01-09-20 Conduc: 2.1 ms PH: 5.8 Temp: 24°C 04-09-20 Conduc: 2.3 ms PH: 6.05 Temp: 24°C

So cut of a few bud sites that were too low or under the net. I also had some nutrient problems with the FBA2504 shes more hungry then the other 2 plants but that should be sorted out by now, or at least thats what I hope.😅😂 Also I wanted to mention that the terps on the FBA2504 give me some Super Lemon Haze vibes and shes also looking like a sativa dominant strain so who knows maybe I got 4 Haze crossings in my tent rn🔥. Purple Haze seems to be the fastest out of the 3 she is a fast one for sure. The Frostbanger has some purple pistils forming.

Lil defoliation lil lst