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@m0use
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This was a fun little project with a few ups and downs. Overall it was a success. I managed to get 86 Seeds off of the two plants, this is a smaller number but given that I started the pollination about 2-3 weeks late I am impressed. Top this all off with the fact I was using 10ppm silver solution for the majority of the reversing process and only had 30ppm for about a single week near the end. Moving forward if I plan on reversing anymore plants I will be investing in some STS vs Silver solution. It's easier to use and has stronger results. I also managed to get 25g of bug from the plants as well that I will infuse into some butter. Not to worry these are not the branches that where sprayed with silver and they have been cut off and disposed of in the composter. When I decide to grow these out I'll try and create a new diary and test if the CBD/THC ratios remain intact, if the plants are viable. I have not tested the germination rate on these seeds and for all I know they are duds or will not resemble their back-crossed parents. This is my first seed making project and so much is new and unknown to me. Have had lots of help along the way from some good GD friends. Tried to post lots of photos and products I used. The photos labelled [PREVIOUS HARVEST] where when I first grew this wonderful strain out. It has the same peppery kush smell and crazy deep purples as it first did. I did shock these plants with a heavy feeding that stunted them greatly, I also transplanted them when I should have started them off in their forever pot. This was all explained in the weekly entries when it happened and why. overall the autos are not heavy yielding but more average for an auto and that's ok with me. Its the smells, taste colours and CBD contest that draw me to it. Somethings to note from the diary, most of the liquid nutrients are diving by how much water I gave them, typically 4L. Solid nutrients are divided per litre of medium in the pots or they are the total amounts I added. Just ask if you have Questions.
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The plant was harvested on day 67 of flower and is now hanging up to dry. I've got the drying environment set at around 58-60% humidity with a temperature range of 15-19°C. Hoping for a nice slow dry to preserve those terps! 👃💨 Will update once it's ready for the next step. Stay tuned! 🚀
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@Ninjabuds
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My Soaptini plant is still on the smaller side, but it's finally starting to take off. I think it's going to stay pretty short and stocky, which will be interesting to see. It's been a challenging week with the constant rain and ridiculously high humidity. Keeping things dry indoors has been a real struggle. Despite the weather, I managed to flip all my feminized photoperiod plants to flower this week. I'm hoping the switch will go smoothly, but with this humidity, it's going to be tough.
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@thonhash
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Subimos algo más los ml de terranabis,buena asimilación y engorde,gracias a enzynabis que busca el equilibrio de todo.
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DÍA 1 - CUARTA SEMANA DE VEGETA (26-05-2022) *Se sigue con el LST (28-05-2022) * Se le aplica una poda selectiva a todas * Tuve un problema de riego con varias * En su día 31 desde q salió del sustrato, de las 6, hay 3 ya que van bien y han sufrido soportaron mejor el estrés, de las otras 3; hay una Banana y una AK que vienen más bajas que todas, de ramas más cortas y distancia internodal corta a comparación de las otras. Después esta la lemon que se viene recuperando muy bien de estrés y fue la que siempre vino más grande y ramificada :) DÍA 7 ÚLTIMA SEMANA VEGETA (01-06-2022) * Último día de la semana de vegetación, ya mañana es su día 1 de flora. * El día de ayer se le regó lo último con Vegalquimia, y se le añadió 1ml de Alquisweet de LAAOS. * Estos últimos 2 días he tenido problema de temperaturas muuuy bajas donde vivo, con luz encendida llegan 20 grados con suerte y luz apagada a 12-13 grados. Estoy tratando de jugar con bajar la humedad pero no la puedo bajar a menos de 55% aprox. Espero ya mañana arreglar ese problema de bajas temperaturas. * Lo que es el cultivo se ve bien dentro de todo. Hay dos enanas que se estresaron en la semana 2 y quedaron pequeñas. A todas se le aplicaron LST, unas resistieron mejor los distintos estrés ya mencionados en semanas anteriores. Pero va bien. * Hay 3 en pre flora, una de ellas en pre flora avanzada y es una de las más enanas.
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13/06/25: Last week of these autos in the grow box, weather is clearing up and they will move outside soon! The Plan to give them a little jumpstart in the early veg is coming together nicely and they took the repotting like nothing at all! 14/06/25: vigorous growth. 3 days since repot; and i can already see roots at the drainage holes, insane! 17/06/25: Started hardening off by putting the plants outside in the evening (6 - 8pm) ☀️ 18/06/25: Hardening off from 4 -8pm, and I could already see the first pistils at the top nodes...tbh honest I hoped to get a few more days or even an extra week of veg but stretch is already incoming! 😔 I directly Repotted to ~13 L per plant and put some extra perlite into the final soil so I can get some decent roots on these ladies! I guess we learn as we grow 19/06/25: Today they got direct Sun from 2 - 6 pm and will stay outdoors from now on!
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Ultima settimana di flushing.anche lei la vedo bella e sicuramente buona ..questa banana 🍌 strawberry 🍓...sempre complimenti a fast buds ..bravi bravi...... Altri 2/3, giorni e taglio anche lei
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GSC 6/7WK IN FLOWER STR8 COOKIE DOUGH TERPS INSANE CRYSTALS ON HER FEED COMPOST TEA N SST TEA
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Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 13/12/2019 - Change the light schedule to 12-12h after 8 weeks of no signs of flowering I think is a photo not and auto. 16/12/2019 - Fed her 1.5l of 6.5PH water with 0,5ml of each: Grow, Bloom and Max, and 1ml of each: Heaven, Alga-mic and Vera, noticed about 10% run off, I use about 1/3 of the nutrient dosage on the chart, to achieve about 200/300PPM (500 scale). 17/12/2019 - Did some defoliation on the lower branches mainly.
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@Sadom
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15.08.: Die zweite Blütewoche hat begonnen und beide Pflanzen haben sich seit der Umstellung gut entwickelt. Da ich vermute, dass die G41 noch weiter wachsen wird, habe ich ein zweites Netz zur späteren Stabilisierung installiert. Das zweite Netz hängt jetzt auf einer Höhe von 1,30m, sodass die oberen Spitzen der G41 bereits durchgucken. Damit die Pflanzen ihre Energie auf die wichtigen Bereiche konzentriert, habe ich bei beiden Pflanzen ein Lollipopping durchgeführt. Dabei hab ich alle Blätter, Seitentriebe und Blütenansätze unterhalb des ersten Netzes entfernt. Diese Blütenansätze liegen so weit unten, dass hier kaum Licht ankommt und sie am Ende stark unterentwickelt sein werden. Idealerweise hätte ich damit noch ein wenig gewartet, aber da ich die kommenden 9 Tage im Urlaub bin wollte ich es vorher noch erledigt haben, das gleiche gilt für das Netz. Updates werden in der Zeit auch eher schwierig, aber vielleicht bekomme ich ein paar Fotos zugeschickt. 18.08.: Ich habe Fotos zugeschickt bekommen. Anscheinend steckt die G41 immer noch in ihrer Stretchphase, da sie das 2. Netz auch schon ein gutes Stück überwachsen hat. 20.08.: Heute kamen nochmal ein kleines Video und ein Foto von der G41. Der Wachstum wird langsam weniger und man sieht, dass sich der Stretch dem Ende neigt. Am Ende der 2. Blütewoche hat die G41 die PBB in Sachen Höhe komplett abgehängt. So wie ich vermutet hab, war der Stretch von der PBB nicht mehr allzu dolle, sodass sie wesentlich kleiner als die G41 geblieben ist. Das ist eins der Probleme, wenn man kein Monocrop anbaut. Außerdem ist der Wasserbedarf der Pflanzen gesunken, sodass die Bewässerung aktuell 10min läuft, wenn das Licht angeht. Nächste Woche bin ich wieder zuhause, dann überlege ich mir, wie ich das Problem löse, entweder mit einer Zusatzbeleuchtung, einem 3. Netz mit dem ich die G41 noch etwas runterbiege oder beides. Da mein Mitbewohner heute vor Beginn von Blütewoche 3 ebenfalls wegfährt, hat er mir gestern noch die aktuellen Daten der Pflanzen zugeschickt. Daher passt es nicht ganz mit dem Diary, ich denke aber, dass es der beste Kompromiss ist.
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Nothing special this week. I added another light, now there's a light for every plant. From the photos you can see that they're not growing equaly so I'm treating them seperatly from now on. Otherwise 2 are floweing and the third will begin flowering probably this week as it's already showing signs.
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Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 112 дней Паутинный клещь побеждаю, но до конца не вывел Растение на много стало зеленее и пушистей. 20.10 перевёл свет в режим 12/12 Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне и продалжаю применять её через день, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 LST технику делаю каждые 4.6 дней На сегодняшний день влажность 54% 5.09.2023 заметил высокий Ph 7.9 С 48 дня Ph не ниже 5.8 На сегодняшний день Ph 6.0 Начал кормить с 60 дня Canna Terra Vega PPM 870 Всем мира и добра! Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀
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Encore 4 semaines avant la ligne d'arrivée.
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👉Alrighty Then👈 👉Apple And Banana 👈 week 6 of flower So we had some real nice growth this , had to do a little leaf management👈 flower mode activated...... Everything is looking good 👍I'm using well water which is hard so I'm having a few issue but I'm on it .... So ive up'd the nutrients to accommodate pre flower ..... Soil by Promix Nutrients by Cronks Lights by MarsHydro.ca FC4800 X UR45 X Adlite Deep Red And Blue Tent 4x4x6.5 & Equipment by MarsHydro.ca High reflectivity inner mylar Thick Oxford fabric Smooth heavy duty zipper Sturdy metal frame Zipper blackout cloth Good anti light leakage performance The 6in Inline kicks ass moves alot of air ●Blue Light Effect: Blue light shortens internodes, resulting in shorter, stronger plants, ideal for supporting fruit development later. During vegetative growth, blue light promotes lateral branch development effectively. Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈 Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈
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@akroaster
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Smell got very strong Day 40. Buds have continued to get larger, although significantly smaller than all the bugs on the last grow. I Had no real expectation for the bud size on this plant, I am very happy with what is currently colas that are all about the size of my thumb, and hopefully another two weeks of flowering time. Beginning to see amber crystals on sugar leaves, will take macro shots tomorrow