Poor Skunk Apple really is the runt of the litter. I think we can blame my rookie mistake of giving it a gallon of water that was way too strong. It's been struggling to recover ever since. Hopefully this little guy will catch up eventually, but I'm not gonna hold my breath. Well, another year has come and gone. Yesterday was New Year's Eve, and I want to wish all of you a happy and healthy 2025. May this year bring you all the things you've been wishing for. Let's make this the best year yet! I can't believe how much my plants have grown during this stretch! It's like they've been on some serious plant steroids. They've all at least doubled in size, some of them even more. I have a hard time with overwatering, especially now that it's harder to let them dry out. I just don't know if I'm damaging the roots with all this growth.

So 2 weeks back, I moved the plants from the 2 troughs into individual 5ltr pots using the same vegetable compost and perlite - mixed a little from the original trough with the new mix. Of course, transplanting is where you can lose your plants as they definitely can suffer from shock.....but not this year. They were sturdy and I think quite determined to continue growing. For the next 2 weeks, the Mimosa powered up high with her long thin stem and leaves. The OG Kush is simply a different beast altogether - much shorter and fatter leaves. Now, week 6 since planting, 7 since germination, I have 4 flowers in a small tent, all are doing fantastically well, the tomato feed seems to have gone down well with the battery operated drip feeder. The weather has really warmed up so it's a steady 24-26 degrees even in the shade, and dropping to 22-24 degrees at night time. I've just put in a fan, the extraction system is functioning perfectly with very very little smell so far and the LEDs are 18/6 and not creating any heat. The Mimosa has lots of flowers forming while the OG Kush is starting to look like a fat little short monster who will start to flower next week. I reduced the watering cycle 2 weeks back to 20 seconds per day and it seems fine but I have noticed some small flies. The top of the soil is damp and this encourages these flies to lay eggs. I've just placed a small cling filmed covered bowl of apple cider vinegar, water and liquid soap to attract the flies with small one way entry holes. Plus, I coated some small squares of yellow plastic with vaseline to further trap them. The date is 4/July. We are 6 weeks in. In about 3 weeks I will change the lighting to 12/12 and expect to harvest the second week of August.😀

Another decent week I would think. Only issue is the CDLC. She seems to be a slow grower but no new issues have popped up on her. Miracle Berry Express is a monster. I'm LSTing every day...I don't really know when to stop so...yeah.. Everyone is looking good. This is first grow but I have really good feelings about it. Gave em all a hair cut too. I think I took too much though. Next time I won't take any small ones. I'm pretty sure I stunted some nodes....I'll have a pretty big harvest regardless I'm thinking. I kinda just listen to the plants...if they look like they have an issue I'll respond. Otherwise I let them do their thing.

Super dense colas 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽

Take a dirt nap. Like quite literally. This strain is a sleeper.

Our #11 or rather this new Seeds Mafia creation that we are growing with love is starting to get serious. It grows well and very regularly, the leaves are clean and it is well proportioned, really beautiful and fast. We have started with fertilizers for growth which we give in reduced doses together with the rooting agent for the entire vegetative phase. Music of the week provided by Radio Nula from Slovenia. https://radionula.com/ Thanks to friends of Seeds Mafia try this and their other creations seeds > https://seedsmafia.com/en/ Light and tent > https://marshydro.eu/products/marshydro-sp3000-led/?lang=it

25/12/18 Week 5 Flower Merry Xmas! All 4 plants are doing well, growth seems to have slowed down so I think the next few weeks are just packing on weight and then ripening. Gonna give them all some pk 13/14 on Friday - had a small problem with fungus gnats in my bathroom which eventually led them into my grow tent. Been waiting extra long between waterings to minimize the chance of them spreading - I know they love wet, mouldy coco. Got some peroxide just incase they become a problem any way. Looking to chop 15th-22nd Jan, depending on how the trichomes are looking. Lots of users commenting on how much weight GZ packs on, really hoping to get some nice dense golf-balls. My previous grow, which was two plants yielded just under 1.5oz, would really love to see a yield around 2.5oz with my current 4 plant set-up. Merry Christmas - more updates in the new year!

she's been filling out nicely over week 7 of flower. Shes put on a lot of weight, requiring me to tie up a few of her branches to support them. still giving her half strength feed and she seems to be more than happy with that, will keep to the same schedule for week 8 which will be the last week before flushing. Unfortunately there are a lot of spaces in between the nodes on the top colas which was due to an excessive defoliation during flower, however it has allowed for more of the lower bud sites and lower branches to receive more light and in turn fill out more than the would have if the top colas were taking all of the light. I will see how detrimental this will be with final harvest weight.

Transplanted to their final homes, 5 gallon fabric pots. Plant's height is 8cm - 13cm. Temp: 22°c - 29°c Hum: 30% - 45% Water ~ 1L each PH: 6.7 On day 16, I transplanted to 5 gallon fabric pots. I amended the Biobizz light mix soil with: *Per 5 Gallon Pot* EcoThrive Grow - 27g EcoThrive Bloom - 3g Ratio = 90/10 Now they're all drinking 1L a day. L.S.T: I topped the two American Beauties once each on Day 20 at the 5th node to allow the Cherry pies to catch up. 😁 Very pleased!

UPDATED ENTRY DAY 64-THE CULL:They have finally finished. After waiting very patiently and thinking this would go on forever, these fruity little beauties are done. I have now put them into the dark for 36 hours before I chop them and hang them for a low and slow dry ( approx 10 days at below 19°c and rh 50%) . I haven't used the Harvest option as I want to be able to complete the information correctly without going back and using edits. They have been a brilliant strain to try for my 1st ever auto run and I will definitely be on my list again if I do another. Their small stature and finish time are better suited to a more natural grow and mild lst for lights penetration i.m.o . I am looking forward to seeing their final yield as they feel rock solid on the big stemmed girls. Will do a full report once I have a final harvest to add. peace and live folks , see you on here in about 2 weeks total. 63: I thought these would be finished at this point but from close up inspection with my loupe , we still have mostly clear trichs in the house. Their overall look is amazing. opening the ten teach day and seeing them standing proud with their beautiful colours is a blessing. I love this strain for appearance and if it smoke like it looks , I will be a happy life long fan. #1 Is feeling nice and tacky when i touch her but also has a greasy feel too. she smells amazing of sweetness and definitely berry. Her size wont break any records but if I grew them again I would leave them to grow their normal height as #3 is. #2 is the nicest looking for size of them all and has me just staring at it when I get the chance. They are so close to the end now and it is killing me waiting.!!! #3 Is the girl left to grow after her very pale start and veg period sonos the tallest structure wise .She doesnt have weighty buds like her sisters but certainly looks good now. I think it is their last week now for sure.

Week 3 Veg Update, (Please see the following) Both Plants ( Seedsman -Critical +2.0 - Blimburn (Applefritter) Thus far both plants are coming along nicely WIll be using Bud clip bender this week to utilize PPF light usage. *Mid-Week Update* Introduced CaliMagic this week LST and Bud clipped Light Defoliation Introduced Element Nutrient (Flower Fuel) 1 week until early Flower. *End of week recap* 08/21 Light Defoliation Bud Clip tie down Thus far all is running smoothly, No changes from above.

Plantitas sanas. Hoy cumplen 21 días de flora Día 22 comienzo con los fertilizantes de engorde.

Wow she's doing great this week. Grew another 20cm. Totally out of headroom now. She's going to yield a lot in a few weeks 😎

Day 50 - Checked PPM 1,030. Added 10 mL of CalMag Micro Grow and Bloom. Added 5 mL of Big Bud Sensizym Bud Candy Nirvana Rhino Skin and B-52. PPM is 1,550. Plant is 51 inches. Raised the light to its highest position. Tons of bud production. Day 51 - Checked PPM 1,590. PPM went up so i diluted with RO water. PPM is now 835. Plant is 52 inches tall. Leaves are getting glossy colored and sticky. Day 52 - Checked PPM 1,560. Diluted again with RO water. PPM is 725. Bud production scaled up. Green mass forming between white hairs and sugar leaves. The stock reminds me of the body of a lizard. Plant is 54 inches tall. Day 53 - Checked PPM 1,130. Added RO water. PPM is 650. Added 10 mL of CalMag Micro Grow and Bloom. Added 5 mL of Big Bud Sensizym Bud Candy Nirvana Rhino Skin and B-52. PPM is 1,620. Plant is 55 inches tall. Tons of white hairs. Bud production everywhere. The mylar emergency blanket allows the light to penetrate deep and low into the plant. Day 56 - Water nearly gone. Added 2 gallons of RO water. Added 20 mL of CalMag Micro Grow and Bloom. Added 10 mL of Big Bud Sensizym Bud Candy Nirvana Rhino Skin and B-52. PPM is 1,690. I can see trichome production (frosty buds and sugar leaves). The hairs are still white. Light is 2 inches above plant. Light is nearly against the ceiling. It stays this way til harvest.

Today marks the 7th week of flowering for my cannabis plant, and it's truly fascinating to observe the changes that are taking place. The stretching phase has officially come to an end, and now the plant is fully focused on developing its buds. I can see that the buds are starting to swell and gain size, which is a promising sign of a healthy flowering process. I've adjusted the feeding schedule with BioBizz products to match the plant's current needs. Overall, the plant looks healthy and vigorous. The pistils are turning a beautiful shade, and the resin production is beginning to increase. I’m excited to see how the buds will continue to develop over the next few weeks. I’ll keep monitoring closely and make sure everything stays on track. Be excited for the coming weeks 💚🌱🌱

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la novena semana de floración de estas Rainbow Melón feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío, de las 3 plantas, me quede con 2 por espacio, siempre pongo alguna semilla de más por si no abriese alguna por no perder ese hueco del indoor. También se trasplantaron a su maceta definitiva, en este caso de 7 litros que además provocó un shock que también solucione. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Las flores están bien prietas y resinosas, sacan unos aromas muy fuertes que no logro describir así, está acabando de madurar, los tonos que se marca son increíbles, no veas como se han puesto. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Germination date 🌱 12/07/2021 Day 36 19/08/2021 Strain 🍁 Ethos Genetics Banana Hammock R1 (Mandarin Sunset x Grapegod) THC% • Unknown 💡 Mars Hydro FC4800 • Power draw 480W + 5% • Max coverage 5 x 5 • LED 2070pcsSamsungLM30B1&Osram660nm • Max Yield 2.5g / watt • Noise level 0 DB • Removable Driver +2m cable • Daisy chain (multiple lights) https://marshydroled.co.uk/products/mars-hydro-fc-4800-led-grow-light-samsunglm301b-commercial-greenhouse-medical-indoor-kit 🇬🇧 https://www.mars-hydro.com/buy-fc-4800-480w-4x4-energy-saving-full-spectrum-commercial-led-grow-light-mars-hydro-for-sale 🇺🇸 PROMO CODE • (ORG420) DISCOUNT 👍🏻 marshydroled.com ⛺ Mars Hydro 120 x 120 x 200cm 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch 💧 10lt dehumidifier ❄️ 3.1kw air con system 💉 Nutrients GreenBuzzLiquids Organic Grow Liquid • 1-4ml until 2wk flower Organic Bloom Liquid • 2-4ml flower stage Organic More PK • 2-4ml +wk3 of flower Organic Calmag • 1-2ml/lt whole grow Fast Plants Spray • first 3days at night lights off More Roots • 2-5ml veg +2wks flower Fast Buds • 5ml +wk2 of veg until 1wk flower Humic Acid Plus • 2-5ml whole grow Growzyme • 2-5ml whole grow Big Fruits • 2-5ml flower stage Clean Fruits • 5ml flush 1wk Ph powder Root Gel Living Organics PROMO CODE • organicnature420 15%off ✌️🏼 https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ 🥥 Growing Media • Coco Coir Notes 📝 Looking good and will be ready for flower in 2weeks. 4 main heads so look forward to this. Might become a new thing if it works out 🙈 Happy growing fam ❤️🌱🍁👍🏻

Hi all, My second week posting on here. Just to confirm that the plants are in London, in a basement. 38 plants in a room approximately 4 meters my 3 meter. It’s been a busy one! Lots of jobs done, tho not sure if I’m getting things right... if you’d like to comment please feel welcome to make suggestions, or call me and my ideas stupid lol SATURDAY At the start of the week I started pruning the plants. I removed all buds, leafs and non-main branches from the bottom 20% of the plants. MONDAY After giving the plants a couple of days to recover and so I was sure my pruning didn’t have a negative affect I started removing small buds and all of the older fan leafs from the rest of the plants I started a different watering routine today after learning that the humidity was too high. It was between 65-85. Cropping a lot of the leafs off the plants helped, so did installing fans to suck air in from outside. Also I stopped leaving buckets of water in the grow rooms. Yesterday I did not water the plants at all. So this morning they were all very dry, but looks good too. Today they had a lot to drink. Added more circulation fans too. Anyway, managed to get the humidity to 40 when lights on, and up to 60 when off. Still working on bring it down to below 50 at night. WEDNESDAY Finished pruning today. With half the plants I took off 65% of the leafs, stems and buds, leaving only the bigger bud areas and sugar leafs, plus a few fan leafs.