Questa panty punch auto ha un profilo TERPENICO DOLCISSIMO, fruttata,e vaniglia...un profumo.....Una vera delizia tutta da gustare........ È la prima volta che faccio la panty punch auto, e devo dire che anche se ancora non la ho assaggiata, sono sicuro che sarà un altra pianta autofiorente che ci metterò la firma, come la forbidden runtz auto della fast buds(molto valide per la mia terapia)

02/15/2021 In the first pic you will notice bottom growth which will become my new moms! At least 3 there now. Top is stretching nicely I will have to decide soon if I want to top her or not, I will know better next week. 02/17/2021 Got two cuts today maybe two more by next week. 3 for the garden, 1 for mother plant. Ps. She grew an inch and a half in two days, so all is well. 02/20/2021 Stretching up to 13.5 inches(34.9cm) almost 5" in less than a week, I think she is happy! On a side note lower growth will produce two more clones for summer garden. can't wait to see her flower! I will probably need to top as she should stretch 1.5-2 X's in flower stretch. Till next weekly update happy growing!🙏

I am really Happy with this Strain, it's growing so beautiful, this week she Streched so much and started now to pack up as well. You can see even the first signs of frost coming up. I hope you Like my Grow. Im looking forward to some beautiful Buds in the near future !

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Very strong week. Stopped Rhizotonic. Began LST. After feeding the gelato just pH water the paleness subsided and more colour came back to the plant. Gelato starting to grow bushy, strong growth from both plants.

Barney's Farm es increíble Kush Mintz simplemente espectacular, linaje critical x kush no tiene fallo posible, y si ya la cruzas con una mintz.. muy buen trabajo breeders, cogollos duros como rocas y buen tamaño Toca secar y valorar todo en unos días 😜

great week. flowers are filling in. trying to figure out what the yellow is from. PH is good, its well fed. BG 2 started but stopped. the smell is incredible. Only a few weeks left!

Just finished week 11, and the time has come! Two of the three ladies were harvested on Monday of this week, the last one is still holding on. Posted some pictures of my homemade odor controlled dry box, the thing works great! Hardly any odors escape when the box is closed up, running a humidifier and drying in the basement has given me a solid 55-65% RH and a comfortable 64-70 degrees fahrenheit for a beautiful slow dry. Once the last one is harvested I will Get her hung up and have updated posts And pictures on harvesting/drying and a final end product. Stay tuned!

So this lady probably could co one more week as I’m getting that second round push of fox tails and more white pistols, but she is also about 10% amber 10% clear and the rest cloudy. I chopped her as these buds are FREAKIN MASSIVE and it’s getting pretty humid in the basement (even with the dehu running 24/7). So I’m chopping a little early to be on the safe side! The speed and quality is amazing! Im super impressed with these fast flowering ladies! I will have to pop more really soon! Smoke and dry weight in a week! ✌️🏻💚

Week 7, starting to kick on now. Responding well to training and now the explosive growth is beginning. Stay tuned

Día 8 (28/10) Subo a DLI 20 Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Retiro la cúpula de humedad, porque una de las CBD Auto 20:1 tenia el tallo ligeramente doblado por falta de resistencia Sin la cúpula y con el ventilador a la potencia mínima (1/10), van a tener una suave brisa que va a hacer que se fortalezca el tallo! Día 9 (29/10) Las plantas se han estirado mucho y se tambalean un poco Creo que deberían haber tenido un DLI más alto desde el principio! Día 10 (30/10) CBD Auto 20:1 y LSD-25 Auto se encuentran "tumbadas" porque el tallo se ha estirado mucho! Hago un soporte casero con una brocheta de madera + alambre + clip de enrejado para mantener los tallos verticales! Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 11 (31/10) Las plántulas se muestran verticales y felices! Una de las CBD Auto 20:1 está mostrando un desarrollo muy rápido! Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 12 (01/11) Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 13 (02/11) Las plántulas se están estirando mucho! Creo que las falta DLI Subo el DLI a 30 Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 14 (03/11) Introduzco la 1ª BioTab a 5 cm de profundidad, lado derecho 1er Riego! 750 ml de H2O RO + ORGATREX 5 ml/L + BACTREX 1 g/L 💦Nutrients by Bio Tabs - www.biotabs.nl/en/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae "GDBT420" 15% DISCOUNT code for the BIOTABS Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/

Had a great week. These babies are still stretching quite a bit and I see pistils everywhere. The next couple of weeks should show some actual nuggies popping up.

Week 1 flowering is just over for our melonade Runtz from Dutch Passion The stretching is amazing, they really doubled the size or even tripled the size. We are adding some bloom nutrients now and lets see the buds starting to appear the next weeks.

Fattys are growing and seem to be thirstier.Used foliar spray to help the leaves and also started tucking. When the plant was topped pistils were seen for first time.

She has performed very good with the lst method, nice plant, fast growth, quality flowers, it's a very good choice for everyone who's looking for a good quality strain at affordable prices. Very nice genetic, this phenotype concretely has a very sweet and floral terps. You can check the other 2 phenos of ak420 here at my page

🏆 Strain Review: White Runtz Automatic Growth Difficulty: Easy Resistance: Strong Review: This girl was a dream to grow. From the start, she showed incredible vigor and stayed very resilient against any stress. She really started to "bulk up like magic" around week 7-8. For a 100W setup, the bud density is impressive. She didn’t mind the BioBizz and Plagron mix at all in fact, the Runtz seemed to thrive on the PK 13-14 boost in late flower. Very straightforward, no-fuss plant that delivers top-shelf results. 📊 Grow Stats Summary Total Time: 10 Weeks Light: 100W LED Nutrients: BioBizz (Root-Juice, Fish-Mix, Top-Max, Bio-Bloom) + Plagron (TNT Complex, PK 13-14) Medium: Coco-Mix

Day 99 Day 49 Flower 09/08/24 Friday (Morning) FLUSH- de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with flawless finish. She's taken a full 5L with 1L run off, I shall continue to do this daily or every 1.5 days when top soil dries out. Starting her flush this week, seeing those trichomes maturing, and pistils now forming 50-60% red. Flush for 10-14 days depending on trichomes. Day 100 Day 50 Flower 10/08/24 Saturday (Evening) FLUSH- de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with flawless finish. Another 5L and seeing about 10-15% run off. Not quite the 1L. Day 101 Day 51 11/08/24 Sunday (morning) FLUSH- de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with flawless finish. 5L run off 10% Majority of pistils now maturing, trichomes flooded with cloudy , barely seen clear anymore, spotting a few amber's. Day 102 Day 52 Flower 12/08/24 Monday (Morning) FLUSH- de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with flawless finish. 5L again with run off 10% Day 103 Day 53 Flower 13/08/24 Tuesday (Evening) FLUSH- de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 today again with flawless finish. Full 5L again with 10% run off. All fans starting to fade now, tops all bending under the weight 🤩 Euphoric sweet lemon zest smell with a gassy slap. Video and pictures ✌️💚 Day 105 Day 55 Flower 15/08/24 Thursday (end of week) Final FLUSH- de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with flawless finish. Full 5L again little run. Finally!!! The FLUSH has finished!! She has developed beautifully 😍 All buds are solid as rocks. She is now entering her 2 day dark period from 10am today till 10am Saturday morning ✌️💚

Day 65 Mon PH 6.1 EC 0.1 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 66 Tue PH 6.0 EC 0.1 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 67 Wed Add flawless finish and soda for oh up PH 5.3/6.0 EC 0.1/0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 68 Thu PH 6.3/ EC 0.1/0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 69 Fri PH 6.0 EC 0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 70 Sat PH 6.1 EC 0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 71 Sun PH 5.8 EC 0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 17c