D1 is a bit more hybridy than D2 (and/or just stronger). No tiredness from D2 D1 tastes amazing in vape, better than D2 but something about D2’s smoke is nice - the geranium undertones. Bottom line D2 is perfect day smoke After curing 3 weeks: D1 lemony and sweet, really good flavor profile D2: earthy-floral (ocimene), woody-pine, def most unique odor profile Flavors: D1: lemon (w grinder), apple (top note), sweet (top note) D2: berry (?), flowers (geraniums), tropical (?), pine; spices (not sure which)

Just because i realized im not really providing info about my potted grow but I have been using Mother Earth coco plus perlite i added worm castings, bat guano, n vegetable garden 4-4-4. just p.h'd water at 6.50. once in flower i would water with a diluted solution from my dwc and PPM under 200PPM.

One has a helmet hat gonna keep an eye out on her Update: Helmet hat came off 2/16 update: all 3 doing well

So the bud pretty much matched the size of the pot! Super tiny grow at 80ml of soil! Pretty frosty and dense considering the size of the pot! Smells like lemon too! Just chopped her down and will have a harvest report on my assuming 4 grams of dried bud! Fun tiny grow! ✌️💚🌿💨

Ok, so it's slowly getting thicker and frostier. At week seven my girl could be ready in anywhere from two weeks to four weeks more. The light was dropped closer to the top of the canopy. I decided to try 15 cm of distance, as well four 50W LEDs are not as powerful as the 600W HID or LED panels that are usually used in grow tents. I will of course keep an eye for signs of light and heat stress, but I suspect that won't be a problem. Update Day 89. Today I decided to turn the plant around to see the back colas and their growth. Then I found some mites under the leaves after examining weird spots in a couple of leaves. It seems to me that there was not enough airflow to deter the mites from making home in the back leaves, when compared to the front leaves of my plant. Lesson learnt, rotate plant often, ensure good and even airflow. I didn't find any webs beside a really small one seen on the video (most affected leaf). So, I think I found them mites early. I only found this kind of damage on very few leaves, and each leave contained less than 8 mites (at least that I could see) and a couple of eggs. So it seems that paying close attention to my leaves saved me from an out of control infestation. Anyhow... I removed all of the leaves that had even a single mite, or a single mark of discoloration. Also, I disinfected the grow tent, top of soil and lower part of the branches by spraying them with a 1/4 tbsp of bleach per liter of water. After that was completely dry, I mixed one part rubbing alcohol with 9 parts water and misted both sides of the leaves and even the buds directly (ethanol evaporates easily, so there shouldn't be residues left after it dries completely). I got these remedies from https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/how-to-get-rid-of-spider-mites I will apply them every 3-4 days and keep a good eye on the leaves. Prevention is key, and some aspects I could've considered before are: 1. not grow any other plant next to my cannabis 2. Don't come into my indoor growtent after tending my outdoor plants. 3. Ensure even and plenty airflow. So, I attacked back strongly. I cut more leaves than those that showed damage, to increase airflow. I will be on the watch for pests and will rotate my plant often, as well as spraying a few times every week, just to make sure they don't come back. I also am going to build a kind of metal wire cage to separate the colas further and make it harder for any pest to spread. Its only my second grow, but from what I've read online about mites, it's way more costly (time and money) to deal with an infestation than to strike them hard early. I guess that specially now that I noticed them before they even made webs. Look closely at your girls growbros ! Update day 90. So this morning I. Becker the trichomes and they seem to have gotten more cloudy. I am not an expert at that, but they are starting to be fewer clear and more milky. I will keep an eye on them, but it think harvest might be here very soon, probably closer to the 9 week mark than to the 12 week one (I'm about to finish the 7th week)...

As we mark the culmination of week 4, we stand on the brink of a significant transition for our plants. This period, characterized by attentive care and meticulous cultivation, has seen our plants flourish in their vegetative stage. They have developed robust root systems and lush green foliage, which are evidence of their vitality and resilience. But in the world of plant growth, time is always of the essence. It is imperative to recognize when to shift gears and usher in the next phase. With that realization, we are poised to send these plants into their flowering stage in just a few days. The preparations for this pivotal moment have been both detailed and extensive. Understanding the significance of this transition, we have preemptively amended the soil. Soil amendment is a cornerstone of ensuring that our plants have access to all the essential nutrients they require during the flowering stage. This period demands a different nutrient profile, with an emphasis on phosphorus and potassium, which are vital for bud development and overall flower health. Our amendments ensure that the plants won't be lacking in any crucial elements, thus setting the stage for optimal flower production. Beyond the soil, the atmosphere in which our plants reside is equally critical. It plays a central role in determining how efficiently the plants can carry out their metabolic processes, particularly photosynthesis. Therefore, we've made the necessary adjustments to create an environment primed for 'blastoff'. By meticulously controlling factors such as temperature, humidity, and light duration, we've fostered a setting that is conducive to the onset and thriving of the flowering stage. In essence, every decision made has been in pursuit of one objective: to offer these plants the best possible conditions to blossom into their full potential. As we look forward to the weeks ahead, we anticipate a rewarding flowering phase, a testament to our diligence and the intrinsic vigor of the plants themselves.

Hello my friends, ...June 24, 2022..Day N°94.. ...Flowering day N°48... My 2 Feminized Runtz Gum, 2 Feminized zkittzy Gorilla and 2 Feminized Banana Sherbet are fine. The buds are very sticky, hard and very smelly, wow ! I gave them water with some Hybrid and Booster powder from Green House Feeding and some Cal-Green from Metrop. My babys are under a Mars-Hydro SP 3000 at 80% of power and at 30 cm of the canopy. www.originalsensible.com www.mars-hydro.com That's all for now my friends, thx for passing through here. Wish you the best with your green projects. See you soon..💨💨💨

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

What can I say, well I can't fault these girls. Just getting fatter as we go. Happy days. Thinking of putting a new inline fan. As i am struggling to keep the moisture down.

🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱

They get Alfa Boost from Growsartig. I love this Booster.

Hallo zusammen 🤙 Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme

This week went very well! One will be getting cut an hung to dry while the rest finish up with one more week of flush ! These ladies are smelling so lovely I hope you all enjoy! Stay tuned for next week! Cheers 😤💨💨💨💨💨

Week 3 is upon us for the Critical by RQS Day 15 Veg Phase Critical #1 is topped and some lst Critical #2 nothing done yet to small Day 16 Veg Phase Critical #1 i think this one is topped and going great Critical #2 was big enough to be topped and done LST on main . All is going great Day 17 Veg Phase Nothing to tell Day 18 Veg Phase One of the big leaves broke of by my own stupidity hopefully she will forgive me 🙏 . Day 19 Veg Phase Same as i did with the cookies gelato I have def bin giving them to much nut i saw white salt build up on my fabric pots . So today i have flush them with pH 6 water until all the soil was moist and would drain out . Now i am going to be not giving them anything until next week of growing phase 2days from now . And then start keeping up EC levels etc . Day 20 Veg Phase No watering today LST coming along nicely with both of them that's it 👍 Day 21 Veg Phase Nothing today no watering . On to week 4

It was a very nice week. She is growing fast and loves low stress training. There are still little flies but they are not a danger for the plant. No problems, no deficiency, only pleasure. Coco is ready for flowering stage 💪💪💪

13-02 seeds in wet papertowel and in ziplockbag 15-02 4 out 4 germ. placed in 1 inch hole in prewatered soil 17-02 4 seedlings, looking good 19-02 a little stretchy, measured ppfd and adjusted lamp to 30 cm above plant and dimmer set to 50% from 25% 20-02 water, 100ml pr plant 21-02 nice looking leaves. 22-02 water, 100ml pr plant

Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 48 дней. Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне и продалжаю применять её через день, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 LST технику делаю каждые 4.6 дней На сегодняшний день влажность 50% Три дня назад заметил высокий Ph 7.9 С сегодняшнего дня Ph 5.8 Заказал погладитель влажности, отпишусь в следующем репорте. Не смотря на высокую влажность и высокий Ph, растение растёт хорошо, генетика радует. Всем мира и добра! https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds