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Day 46 pics Cropsalt 4 the win! How to beat Inflation? Increase your yield and crush the quality. 💚GHL out.
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📆 Week 6, 26 May - 1 June 2024 26-31 May - Observed and let the plant grow. 1 Jun - Did a light defoliation of plant (see picture) to allow light to reach all bud sites. 📑 This is her first week of true flower and she is still stretching some. Her size has doubled and as is now into more intense lighting, the canopy coverage reads at 40 DLI. It looks like the light power will need to only stay at 50% in this small tent. The new light is proving itself well so far, more light without added heat, no complaints - except for the dimmer switch. A true consumer marketing mistake by ViparSpectra. 🍶 28 May nutrient solution changed 🍽️ 28 May feeding schedule updated 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient solution EC 2.6 at 70 degrees F 🔆 Light power at 50%, DLI 40 canopy coverage at 18hrs 😤 Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.
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She was super easy to grow. After figuring out she loved to feed, I began mixing her own nutrients separately and within a week had any deficiencies in check. She kept to a regular cycle of regular feed, light feed, then straight ph’d water. This kept her healthy all throughout. No signs of disease or pests, she performed Like a champ and ended up giving me a little over 6 oz of dense gassy buds. She took a full 10 weeks, and I probably could have given her a few more days, but she is already a very potent smoke, something that is great in the day time for me. For the price of these beans, $45 for 5 feminized seeds, I would highly recommend the 34 street seed Pink Kush strain 🇨🇦👊❤️
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@reirrac1
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She’s been stacking super fast and I think she may become the biggest and highest yielding plant I’ve grown thus far. Each cola has 3 nodes minimum. I love mephisto genetics. Beginning mid-flower nutes now. Flush pH 6.4, EC 0.33. Feed pH 6.5, EC 1.01.
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@Headies
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Upper growth slowed for about a week or two and root developed, but then the top started growing, and branches started forming. Leaves started getting bigger.
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@Ace0411
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So, bubba diagonal has the sweetest smell, almost like a dank og smoothie probably inherited from the purple punch and the true og, Guava cake is the most "weed" smelling like pure good sativa funky ganja, not very tangy but a little more on the cookies side, and the kmintz... probably my favourite, she has just a strong mint-fruit smell. Its a sweet and fresh zkittlish-fruity funk with a slight dank earth background, and the smell is sweet and at the same time slightly "overpowering" in your nose, almost like its rotten sweet fruit. Cant wait to smoke them. Here are some pics from the last week of flowering guys, can't wait! Smells like heaven😍 supersoil + compost tea is the bomb!!! #teamorganic
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Esta variedad suele ser poco productivas pero una pasada para fumar o hacer cualquier tipo de extracción. La Blue Gelato 41 todo fue para ice y la verdad que un sabor increible! Una buena genética farmers!🍁
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Good yielder, give them least 9 week flowering. Can take a good feed, i suggest to cut of N last 2 weeks. Had 2 pheno. 1 is very bubblegum type of smell and the other is just slight fruity. Harvested 3 plants. 1 was 56.20 dry at 52%RH 2 was 52.33 grams dry at 52%RH 3 was 80.23 grams dry at 55%rh Total=188.76 grams for 3 plants All the plants Peyote critical Orange SHerbert Candy Dawg where flowered under 300W Led Organic way. Total sum of grams for all plants 401.32 grams = 1.3333gram per watt Will i be growing this for the future? Nope, i'm looking for something more unique for my taste. Imo pretty generic kind of weed. Will update later for taste after 4 week cure
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@Roberts
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It was a interesting grow I had Spider mites in flowering. I treated with lady bugs. Seemed to do the trick. All my other autos got hplvd. This likely had it too at end with close proximity to them. She made it. Great looking plant, and smell. Thank you Mars Hydro. DO NOT BUY AMS. The owner is a convicted criminal, and he stole 550 dollars from me. It's not worth it. Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channelUCAHN7YRZWLPCARHHMIQ7X4G
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@Mr_Juice
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Light intensity increased to 100%… the buds are getting bigger and already look pretty frosty 😉 I added some bloom nutrients for her, but as always only a minimum since she doesn’t really need much, just a little boost 😉
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@GODAXE
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27.08.2024 D48 since cutting, lady starting to bush like their mother, as i did nt have place for 8 massive bush in the tent i proceed to some pruning and set some bud clip. overall look GBC #1 16 inch, flowering GBC #2 16 inch, flowering GBC #3 16 inch , still in veg, 😰 GBC #4 18 inch, full bud mod 😍 GBC #5 18 inch , full bud mod 😍 GBC #6 19 inch, flowering GBC #7 20 inch, start flowering👍 GBC #8 18 inch, flowering i will not weekly uptade, but keep you tuned
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she is still going strong another 3 weeks and she might be ready Having some issue fugus bugs trying to dry them out, Ill keep you all posted
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- GERMINAZIONE - P.S. = Periodo da quando tolgo il seme dall’involucro fino al settimo giorno (una settimana) conterò questa settimana di germinazione a parte e le 5 settimane successive come vegetativa. Settimane totali dall’innesto del seme: (6 settimane piene prima di girarle in fioritura). Ciao amici !! Dopo aver tolto i semi di Gorilla Girl f1 fast version di Sweet Seeds dal proprio involucro abbiamo proceduto con l’inserimento di 3 di questi nei soil plug, mentre uno l’abbiamo fatto germinare nella carta/cotone, mantenendo i semi bagnati e umidi per i primi 3/4 giorni, tempo necessario per far “sbocciare” il seme. Una volta notata l’inizio della plantula abbiamo innestato i soil plug (e il seme singolo) negli appositi vasi, rinvigorendo il terreno con la giusta quantità d’acqua. (Terreno già concimato una settimana prima)
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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7-19-2026 Mix Pack Auto RF3 Hell everyone this week has been hot, humid and smokey as hell from the wildfires 🔥 in Canada. Very smokey to the point it blocks the sun. Had a couple of thunderstorms too. Air quality has been shity. But plants love this kind of weather. Both plants are looking healthy and great structure on the stems on both. I did add copper wire ive read it it helps with pestt, giving it a try. Also one of the plant's has started to flower 🌼 will change to flower stage when both plants start to flower, for now keeping it on vegetation. Temperature: (daytime 80°- 100°+)( night time 60°-90°) Humidity: 52% - 71% Daytime:15 hours 6 mins Tall: (A. 8 inches ) (B. 8 inches ) Smell: yes Water: rain water for both Plant (A) has a skunky/diesel/gassy with some fruity liomone sweet smell at the end. Kinda slicky feeling when you rub your fingers on the stem nodes. This plant has grown 5 inches and a nice wide too since last week and has a darkish green look to it. Structure of the plant's is looking great stems are nice and strong with a whitefish look to it. Its got some nice leafs to it im guessing it going to lean more towards a indica. Plant (B) doesn't have a strong smell yet. A little fruity smell but not much. Structure on the plant is great the nodes are perfect spaced apart. This plants is also 8 inches tall but not as wide. Didn't really grow much since last week. But this plant has started to flower 🌼 two days ago on Friday. I wounder if it got stressed out or maybe this is not an nood out door plantto grow. Its been 27 so we will see. Its got a light green color on the leafs and the stems are starting to get more purple on it. I also took out the sunflower plant that was next to it. It was starting to cover it up by its shade by like 3 pm so not getting the sunlight so it got pulled. Thank for watching
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@Roberts
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FBT 2212 grew great in a 4 gallon potter of coco. She was dialed in really well the mass of the grow. She has a earthy fruity smell going in. I will update a harvest video if it let's me. Thank you Viparspectra, and Mars Hydro. Lights worked great for stages I used them in. Thank you Fast Buds for the testers. Always looking for the new strains. She turned out great. 🤜🤛💪❄️🌱 It won't let me upload the video hit my YouTube for it. Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la cosecha de estas Tropicana Cookies Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Por dónde empezar, las flores son bien compactas , y van repletas de resina, tienen tonos rosados por dentro muy bonitos, y tiene un aroma súper dulce aunque engañar engaña porque saber sabe más tropical y cítrica. Es muy sencilla de cultivar, es de ciclo bastante corto aunque también si le dais una semana más no pasa nada agradecer se agradece al final. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨