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Day 1 Pink Wafers (Biscotti x Pink Champagne) The next journey has just begun and I'm looking forward to this one ✌️🏻 Update: We lost one on the way due to an amateur mistake 🤦‍♂️🏼 I didn't feed them or fill humidifier up and was a hot day so when I got back it was face down in the soil 🤦‍♂️🏼 hopefully won't make that mistake again while they are this small 🤣
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@Dendegrow
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🌈 Mental Rainbow – Sweet Seeds Alright, correction time again 😅 — this one is definitely Mental Rainbow! Big shoutout to Ramon from Sweet Seeds 🙌 – bro, you really convinced me. I’ll definitely be getting more F1 strains from you in the future. I popped two seeds, and even though I mixed them up at first, your strain description was 100 % accurate 🔥 This plant is absolutely gorgeous – honestly one of the most beautiful I’ve ever grown 💜🌿. For me, it’s basically Purple Mango Haze: pure, fresh mango terps with that smooth, hazy twist. Harvest is coming up in about a week – can’t wait to see (and taste) the final result 👀✨ Follow me here and on Instagram @DendeGrow for more updates, info, tips & grow tricks 🌱📸 --- 🌈 Mental Rainbow – Sweet Seeds Also, hier nochmal zur Korrektur 😅 – das hier ist auf jeden Fall Mental Rainbow! Grüße gehen raus an Ramon von Sweet Seeds 🙌 – du hast mich echt überzeugt. Ich werde mir künftig definitiv öfter F1-Sorten von dir holen. Ich hatte zwei Samen gepoppt, und obwohl ich mich vertan hatte, hat deine Beschreibung zu 100 % gepasst 🔥 Diese Pflanze ist einfach wunderschön – ehrlich gesagt eine der schönsten, die ich je growen durfte 💜🌿. Für mich ist das ganz klar Purple Mango Haze: intensiver, frischer Mango-Duft mit dieser typischen, leicht hazy Note – einfach genial. In etwa einer Woche steht die Ernte an – ich bin mega gespannt, wie sie schmecken wird 👀✨ Folgt mir hier und auf Instagram @DendeGrow, um nichts zu verpassen – dort gibt’s noch mehr Infos, Tipps und Tricks rund ums Growen 🌱📸
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SATIVA DREAM by KANNABIA Week #16 Overall Week #1 Flower This week she's looking great got her newly started buds and a nice color to her so far she's dealing with the elements!! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com SATIVA DREAM
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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Start of week 4. This girl stretched an inch during week 3 and her bud sites continued to pack on size and take shape. She is very sticky to the touch, with a slight citrus, earthy smell.
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Big troubles with LST, I managed to broke two colas, the first one recuperated but the socond one I had to remove. So strange for me why are they so fragile and not flexible. I need to wait more time before switching to 12/12 to get her away from stress.
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Boom! Touchdown! I let her dry for 13 days before the trim. The humidity in the grow tent was maybe a bit lower than what I usually prefer, but I wanted to be extra cautious against budrot in the other plant drying in the same tent. It was a breeze to trim her and the final result was 84.4 grams of pure flower with no larf at all. In fact, I didn't even bother keeping the trim as there wasn't all that much of it.
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Week 11 Day 71 (15/03/2021): No time to take pics today ✌️ Day 72 (16/03/2021): Looking good but more and more leaves are drying up or turning yellow. But at this point there is definitely no point in stressing the girls by removing them. Although the colours definitely look nice! Day 73 (17/03/2021)💧: Today will be the last watering for the girls so they have a few days to take up the last bits of moisture before harvest. I can’t believe how fast this grow went but I have definitely learned a lot from it. Day 74 (18/03/2021): They look so nice and colourful, definitely an interesting bunch of girls :D Can’t wait for the harvest and cure Day 75 (19/03/2021): No time to take pics today ✌️ Day 76 (20/03/2021): No time to take pics today but harvest day tomorrow!!!! Day 77 (21/03/2021): HARVEST DAY! What a great journey it has been growing these girls. They were so resilient and only started showing symptoms of deficiency in the last few weeks. They are absolutely covered in trichomes and smell very pungent. I think they will be super hard hitters! And it still amazes me how different they all are. Echo is even completely purple! Can’t wait to trim and dry these girls and will definitely make some bubble hash from all the trichomes on the leaves too 🤤 Will follow up with a review soon! (after they’ve cured for a bit)
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7/28 some light lead pulling removing bottom area and sites that I fill be waste of time taking energy from the tops still RO water and tea every other week
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@RizlaZA
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1st week out of the veg tent, post 1st defoliation. I like to do all my major training in Veg to prevent further stress in flower. I cut all lower fan leaves off and any unnecessary bud sights (ones that I know will not get any light) - Keep in mind these bitches STRETCH & grow massive fan leaves which block out almost all the light to lower sections of the plant. So you will have to remove leaves, how many is up to your preferred method.
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@MG2009
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02/01/2021 Will update when dried and cured, smells sweeet! Very candy like sticky but have grown stickier strains, nice colors hope it looks as good dried. Greens and purples are striking! See ya next week Ps I will not do this monster cropping again good harvest but too much trimming! If I do I'll train longer into better shape. But I learned how not to do it next time. Should have vegged longer and training would have helped, I just wanted to experiment.🙏 Getting back to soil and putting Hydroponics away for a while. I will grow outside this summer to see how she does, I'm curious to see how she handles PW outside, no issues inside. Got a little PW but it didn't spread and didn't see it again. Also got all my trimmings(about 1 ounce) in the freezer, going to try and make dry sift once I figure out how. 10 days since harvest. Burbping jars once a day still releasing moisture. 02/23/2021 Smoke session time been curing 3 weeks.
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The grow is going well and there are very big differences between all 3 plants. The height: Plant 1 (left): 115 cm tall Plant 2 (middle): 84 cm tall Plant 3 (right): 130 cm tall As 2 plants stretched all the way into the LED light, I have now tied them to the back of the tent. This results in the top colas being pulled sideways away from the center of the LED and reducing the light intensity. The top colas closest to the LED have shown some signs of stress. Slight burning and foxtailing of the top colas is the result of this. However the problem should be solved as they now receive substantially less light. The plants are also very different in their development. Plant 1 (left): still is full of white hairs, bud development is a little slower, moderate trichrome production. I think this plant will take the longest to finish. Plant 2 (middle): most hairs have turned orange, most bud development of all 3 plants and good trichrome production. I feel this plant will be finished the earliest. Plant 3 (right): a mix of white and orange hairs, bud development and trichrome production is ok. I feel this plant will finish in-between the other 2 plants. So far I am happiest with the middle plant (plant 2). It has the nicest bud development and overall looks the prettiest so far. However, in the end we will have to see how the end product turns out. The prettiest plant isn't always the best smoke. So let's see what these ladies do towards the end of flower. I'm using Plagron Green Sensation for the end of flower to help bud production. So far so good. Thanks again to Plagron and Zamnesia for sponsoring the comp and the grow. Happy growing and see you next week.
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Englischversion below Deutsch: Tag 49 Veg: Alle Pflanzen haben das Ziel erreicht - den Rand des Topfes. Eine starke Entlaubung und Entfernung der kleineren Triebe stand an. Dadurch soll verhindert werden, dass die Pflanzen viel Energie in die Biomasse stecken, die später ohnehin beschnitten wird. Ein Pulse-Zero und ein Bodenfeuchtigkeitsmesser ergänzen nun das Setup. Im angesicht der kommenden Blüte wird der VPD in Richtung 1-1,2 gepusht ( hauptsächlich durch ein geringeren RLF%). Sobald sich die Ladies vom Stress erholt haben, wird die Blüte eingeleitet - im Streach wird dann wahrscheinlich das SCROG-Netz eingespannt. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 49 – Vegetative Phase: All plants have reached the target — the edge of the pot. A heavy defoliation and removal of smaller shoots were carried out. This is intended to prevent the plants from investing excessive energy into biomass that would later be pruned anyway. A Pulse Zero and a soil moisture sensor have now been added to the setup. In preparation for the upcoming flowering phase, VPD is being increased toward a range of 1.0–1.2, primarily by lowering relative humidity. Once the plants have recovered from the stress, flowering will be initiated. During the stretch phase, a SCROG net will likely be installed.
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The bud‘s smell like lemon and they are small but this was my fail i think. Elsa was doing a Great Job and I will take every product again in Grows in the Future. Thx
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@AsNoriu
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Approximately day 115 since seed touched soil. Girls got light trim and went for drying. Think it will be 100 g total from all 3 plants, but this strain surprised me. I tried this house Bubblegum, just in very bad conditions, all brought very smelly buds, but AK still think are better, The strain of this summer for me personally. Happy Growing !!!
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. 📹 : Full Video on YouTube @hinterhofgrower, please like & subscribe 🌱 : strategic defoliation on day 30, LST & strategic defoliation day 31, LST on day 33 💧 : 3l day 31 💡 : Dli: 40 mol/m²/d 🤔 : By week 5 it had clearly started to flower, so there was no drastic trim, just the strategic removal of a few leaves that were blocking the light for potential flowers, then the removal of leaves that were completely shaded, and some LST to direct the branches outwards to create more space for the flowers and ensure the flowers were at the same height.
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@OGbros
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ciao a tutti, le piante sembrano stare bene. Da quando ho tolto lo scrog non mi sembra ci siano state molte differenze nella struttura generale delle piante, sembrano stare su anche senza l'aiuto della rete. I fiori hanno iniziato a formarsi, ma ho alzato la lampada di qualche cm perché la punta dei fiori della purple punch stavano diventando albini per la troppa luce (che stava causando il problema), mentre nessun problema nella glookies. Le piante sono alte all'incirca 40 cm e sono molto simili per superficie occupata, tuttavia la glookies ha una settimana in meno di vegetativa rispetto alla purple punch, la quale essendo a forte predominanza indica (10%-90%) si è allungata meno nelle prime settimane di fioritura rispetto alla glookies (30%-70%). La purple punch rimane comunque a mio avviso più compatta e ramificata rispetto all'altra pianta. Ho aggiunto 20 litri d'acqua con la quantità di fertilizzanti scritta sopra e ho aggiunto infine direttamente nella soluzione circolante 15 ml di pH- poichè il pH aveva raggiunto un valore di 6.6. edit giorno 25: si inizia a sentire un certo odore super dolce. Il pH si è assestato sui 5.9 prima di versare 10l d'acqua con l'aggiunta di 0,8ml/l di floragrow 1,6ml/l di floramicro 2,4ml/l di flrabloom 1ml/l di calmag Le piante sembrano stare molto bene👌