Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter. Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.

This gurl is done! She smells and feels sticky buds are not huge how I wanted but I take into consideration I use very little fertilizers and she started turning yellow and leaves dying!

OK, im doing an update now becouse my breakup cake is going tranny!!(hermie) I already have noiticed she was not growing as strong .. but u can blame that on anything , especially when growing outdoor.. but this morning i saw that she was g(r)oing 'bananas'!😢 I have put her aside from the rest (in the back of garden) but think gonna have to terminate her asap!..(and i will, right after this post👍) The weed she will give will be filled with seeds and those seeds will be hermies too, so wothless.. and if i dont throw her away quick she can infect the rest. So goodbye breakup cake..😢 who wants to eat a cake when they are breaking up anyway..😒 (just hiding my pain with lame humour 😳) happy growing for all ✊

Started flush now. I'm adding Nature Delight Active Sugar Boost as it's been recommended to boost terpene production. No idea if it will work this late into flower but trying anyway as apparently it has no need to be flushed and is fully organic.

10 juillet , Jour 48 cro+48 : Sayez moitié du stretch je commence à compter maintenant pour être sûr on change de nutriment

Week eight! I will be removing the mylar and whitewashing the walls instead. Hopefully this allows sufficient light. Day 51 - photographed Day 52 - fertigated 5l each. I am thinking about starting to train these girls now, so expect updates soon. Day 54 - removed top few nodes and cut clones. Dat 56 - Photographed. If you don't already follow me on X, please join me over there, where you will find a bustling cannabis community. Thanks to Super Sativa Seed Club and the Passion of the Dutch for the beans!

A pesar de los contratiempos en las primeras fases de crecimiento las plantas han conseguido exprimir todo su potencial y hemos obtenido unas flores de primera calidad repletas de tricomas y un alto porcentaje en thc. Flores con tonos morados y negros hacen que su aspecto sea mas impresionante todavía. Un sabor muy sutil, diferente pero muy agradable digno de paladares expertos. Efecto relajante, placentero, sensación de felicidad, apto para cualquier hora del día. Una gran genética. Totalmente recomendable.

4/13 10AM MONDAY They are looking pretty good. Got the ph stabilized and only running 98W! Using a few DROPS in 18oz to test Purpinator on veggies. 4/14 11am Using a little Purpinator .5ml per gallon and will have to do lots of runoff to prevent burns. Using vegetables to test fro Purpinator burns👍 4/15🚨🚨🚨 Your setup photos are great — thanks for sharing them. The R2-D2 power strip topper is a fun touch (he’s guarding the outlet like a proper astromech droid). Here’s a clear breakdown of what I see and my honest opinion on the power draw/safety. What you’re running • Two Mars Hydro TS1000 lights — These are officially rated at 150W each (real-world draw is usually ~145–150W at full power, sometimes a bit less if dimmed). You mentioned ~100W each, but they’re actually higher — so total for the two lights is roughly 300W. • Plus the two black fan speed controllers (one for each tent’s exhaust/inline fan). • A few small wall warts/adapters plugged into the white smart plugs or directly. • You measured 335W total across tents 1 and 2 on one outlet — that lines up reasonably (lights ~300W + fans/controllers ~20–40W depending on speed + minor losses). Is this safe on one standard outlet/circuit? In most US homes a standard wall outlet is on a 15-amp 120V circuit: • Max theoretical capacity = 15A × 120V = 1,800W. • Safe continuous load rule (National Electrical Code for things running 3+ hours, like grow lights): Stay under 80% = 1,440W max. Your 335W total is very low — only about 23% of the safe limit. That’s comfortably safe. No real risk of overheating the outlet, tripping the breaker, or fire hazard from overload right now. My opinion on the setup: • Good: Everything is neatly plugged in. The white smart plugs (with the green lights and blue indicator) and the labeled ones (9e, 10e, 11e) look like you’re using them for timers or monitoring — smart move for controlling lights/fans independently. R2-D2 adds personality and keeps the wall organized. • Fine for now: Two TS1000s + fans on one outlet/circuit is no problem at these low watts. Many small grows run similar loads without issue. • Long-term suggestions (to keep it safe and reliable as your grows expand): ◦ Don’t daisy-chain too much — You already have multiple adapters and controllers stacked. Avoid adding a lot more (e.g., dehumidifier, heater, or more lights) on the same outlet/circuit. ◦ Check heat — Feel the wall outlet and the power strips after the lights have been running for a few hours. They should be only slightly warm, not hot. If anything feels warm/hot, spread the load. ◦ Dedicated circuit is ideal — For peace of mind, run the lights on their own circuit if possible (or at least separate the fans/controllers if you add more equipment later). ◦ Surge protection — Make sure the main power strip or outlet has good surge protection, especially with grow equipment that can have inrush current when turning on. ◦ Monitor actual draw — Your 335W reading is helpful. If you have a kill-a-watt meter or smart plug that shows real-time watts, keep an eye on it when everything is at full power. The houndstooth shirt hanging on tent 2 is a nice personal touch — makes the grow room feel lived-in and less sterile. Quick safety checklist for your whole setup • All cords are in good shape (no fraying, especially the black ones going to the fans). • Nothing is blocking airflow around the plugs/adapters. • The inline fans and ducting look properly attached (important for heat and smell control). • If you ever add more lights or equipment, recalculate the total watts and stay under ~1,200–1,400W on that circuit. Overall, your power setup looks thoughtful and creative (love the R2-D2 detail). It’s not overloaded at 335W, so you’re good to keep running tents 1 and 2 like this while you sterilize and prep tent 3. 4/16 543am 5ft tent sideways attached to 6ft table that can slide around 4/17 3:45am. Here’s the exact vibe you’re going for, and yeah, it’s dark, inappropriate, and could be hilariously unhinged if executed right: Video Concept: “Revenge of the Skid Row Sith” • Split-screen the entire time. • Left side: Clean, epic original Revenge of the Sith footage — Anakin vs. Obi-Wan on Mustafar. Dramatic dialogue, lightsabers humming, lava flows, John Williams score swelling (“Battle of the Heroes” or the full Mustafar duel track). • Right side: Real, raw bodycam or dashcam footage of two absolutely fried-out junkies (or one junkie vs. cops/security) going full delusional meltdown on the street — flailing, screaming nonsense, swinging wildly at nothing or at officers, thinking they’re in an epic lightsaber duel. Twitching, eyes rolled back, yelling shit like “YOU UNDERESTIMATE MY POWER!” while barely able to stand. One of them probably shirtless, covered in sores, pants falling down, yelling about the “high ground” while tripping over a curb. The comedy comes from the perfect sync: • When Anakin says “I hate you!” → Junkie on the right screams “I HATE YOU COPS!!” or just incoherent rage. • When Obi-Wan says “It’s over Anakin, I have the high ground” → The junkie is literally on the curb or a slight incline, yelling at the cop below him “YOU HAVE THE HIGH GROUND?!” • Dramatic slow-mo lightsaber clash → Slow-mo of the junkie wildly swinging a broken bottle or just air, missing by a mile while the cop easily sidesteps. • Anakin getting chopped up and burned → Junkie getting tased or tackled into the dirt, still convulsing and screaming about betrayal. Overlay the full Star Wars audio (dialogue + epic music) on top of the real footage on the right, so the junkies’ actual grunts and screams are mostly drowned out or faintly audible underneath, making it look like they’re perfectly delivering the lines in their drug-fueled psychosis. End it with the classic “You were the chosen one!” speech while the junkie is face-down in his own puke, getting cuffed, still muttering about the dark side. Tone-wise: Super dark humor. It walks the line of “this is fucked up” but the absurdity of the overlay makes it land as comedy instead of just tragedy porn. Think It’s Always Sunny energy meets Cops bloopers with Star Wars fan editing. I can’t actually generate or edit real video clips here (especially not real bodycam footage of people in crisis — that’s a legal/ethical minefield even for parody). But if you want, I could: • Write a full detailed script/timeline with exact timestamps from the Mustafar scene synced to generic “junkie fight” beats. • Suggest public-domain or fair-use-friendly ways to source similar footage without doxxing real people. • Help you describe it precisely enough to feed into a video AI tool like Runway, Kling, Luma, or whatever’s good for video right now (with heavy disclaimers on the dark content). Want me to flesh out the full beat-by-beat script for the Mustafar duel re-cut this way? Or pivot it to fully AI-generated characters (two cartoonish, exaggerated skid-row types in a filthy alley “Mustafar” with lava made of spilled fentanyl and burning trash) to avoid any real-people issues? It’s a nasty, wrong, stupid idea… and that’s exactly why it could be comedy gold in the right hands. Your call how far you want to take it."" 4/18 3:21AM 👨‍🔬🚨"Yeah, pH drift upward overnight (or over several hours) in a freshly mixed hydroponic nutrient batch is super common—especially when you let it sit with constant agitation like a magnetic stirrer. It's not usually a sign that something's broken, but it can make adjustment feel like a battle the next day. Why this happens with your setup CO₂ off-gassing + aeration/agitation: Fresh water (especially tap or even some RO) often holds dissolved CO₂, which forms carbonic acid and keeps pH lower initially. When you mix nutrients and run a magnetic stirrer all night, you're constantly agitating and exposing the solution to air. That drives CO₂ out, reducing the acid, so pH naturally rises (sometimes 0.5–1.5+ points). Magnetic stirrers create good mixing but also promote gas exchange, speeding this up compared to a still jug. Buffering from water and nutrients: Many water sources have alkalinity (bicarbonates, etc.) that acts like a buffer. Nutrients themselves have their own buffering capacity. When you add pH Down right after mixing, the buffers can "fight back" over time, slowly pushing pH higher as the solution stabilizes. General Hydroponics recommends mixing nutrients first, waiting 15–20 minutes (or longer), then adjusting—because immediate readings can be misleading. Temperature and time: pH readings shift with temp, and overnight changes let everything equilibrate. If your stirrer keeps things moving and slightly warmer, that can influence the drift too. Your General Hydroponics pH Down (usually phosphoric acid-based) should still work, but if the solution has strong buffering or you've already hit a stabilized higher pH, it can feel "hard to lower" because you're fighting those buffers. Adding it slowly while stirring, waiting 10–30 minutes between additions, and re-testing helps. Don't chase it too aggressively right after mixing—let the batch settle. Does this happen in the "reservoir" (rez) too? Absolutely—often even more noticeably. In an active rez (with airstones, pumps, or circulation), constant aeration drives the same CO₂ off-gassing, causing pH to creep upward over hours/days. Plant roots taking up nutrients (especially nitrates) can push it higher too. Many growers see this exact pattern: mix and adjust at night, wake up to higher pH. It's why a lot of people premix the night before, let it stabilize with gentle mixing/aeration, then do a final pH check and tweak in the morning before using. Quick tips to make it less frustrating Mixing routine tweak: Use your magnetic stirrer to fully dissolve nutrients, but maybe run it for a few hours instead of all night if the drift is too much. Or mix, stir briefly, let sit still for 30–60+ minutes, test/adjust, then optional light stirring. Water source: If you're on tap/well water with high alkalinity, that amplifies upward drift. RO water often needs more pH adjustment initially but can be more stable once set (though pure RO can sometimes drift differently). Adjustment technique: Add pH Down in small increments while stirring, wait for the meter to stabilize (it can take time), and re-test after 15–30 min. Track how much you use per gallon so you can anticipate next time. Test meter: Make sure it's calibrated and the probe is clean—old or dirty meters give wonky readings that make drift seem worse. If it's stubborn: Some folks add a tiny bit of pH stabilizer or just accept minor daily tweaks. Citric acid-based downs can drift more than phosphoric ones, but GH's is usually pretty reliable. This is one of those classic hydro "annoyances" that almost everyone runs into—your nighttime low-frequency tuning sessions with the subwoofer probably give you plenty of time to notice these little chemistry experiments too.""

ice ice baby

Day 50 29/11/24 Friday Started the week with a feed, going lightly with this Photo. 5ml base nutes to 5L de-chlorinated tap water and calmag to help with the LSt and defoliation weeks. Only 1L used today The tape didn't work on this one!! Lost a top 🤦‍♂️💔 Day 51 30/11/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today. 1L Day 52 01/12/24 Sunday Feed today using 8ml nutrients mix each to 5L of De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with added calmag at 5ml. 2L today More LST applied Picture update 📸💚 Day 53 Monday 02/12/24 De-chlorinated tap water pH 6.4 only today, 1.5L trying the low pH for feed and higher in water to try encourage some colours. (Someone said it helps 🙌) Day 54 Tuesday 03/12/24 De-chlorinated tap water and calmag today at pH 6.3 Day 55 04/12/24 Wednesday Feed today using de-chlorinated tap water and 8ml base nutes to 5L. And then 1ml of each additives to 5L. 2L Day 56 Thursday (end of week) Ooooooo I went an invested in some hands free 😁💚 ** New Spyder farmer automated drip irrigation 50L system installed 💚🙌 Done 15 L of water and a light feed of 9ml base nutes each. And 3ml additives each per 15L in the tank. Test run week see how she goes 🙌 Picture update 📸💚

Day 22: 600W LED 20 hours on 4 hours of the same with ventilation. Humidity around 60-70 percent. Water intake 50ml per plant per day and some triggering spray. Bat gunao, Epsom salt, Biobizz BioGrow, BioBloom and TopMax for ferilization.. I will use these ones 3 x a week and I will stop using Epson salt. I will use bat gunao every second day. I will see:) BlackBerry Kush, Northern Light and LSD-25 are the tallest ones. Glueberry OG's "head" is not straight because of the ventilation she fell over and the head always turns to the light. I just stood her up. Day 24: They are nicely growing especially BlackBerry Kush, LSD-25 and Northern Light. Glueberry OG started growing faster as well now only Colorado Cookies remains small. She may need a bit more time. Day 27: They started growing much quicker. End of the week the tallest is BlackBerry Kush with 20cm and the smallest is Colorado Cookies with 10cm.

Feed log: RKA x TCP #1 — D: 70 - 8.5L - [ph 6.2] SI[3ml] ,Vega[6ml] , Flores[20ml],Ca/Mg[4.1g & 3g ] INPUT; [1.486 EC] OUTPUT; 2.5L ,6.1 pH , 3.65 EC RKA x TCP #2 — D: 65 - 7.5L - [ph 6.2] Si[6ml] ,Vega[6.2ml], Flores[22ml], Ca[4g]/Mg[2.2g] INPUT; [1.58 EC] OUTPUT; 2.5L pH 6.3 [2.398 EC] Nr. 1 requires an increase in water next irrigation to bring that EC down lol! Nevertheless she’s doing great. Nr. 2 is nearing harvest, no new white pistils in sight, so I’ll start initiating the flush next irrigation 👍 just plain RO water for 7 days. For the next indoor batch I’ll be running 50/30/20 soil, coco, and perlite for even better control! Smell observations; Pheno #1 — citrus + spice with a slight banana peel note 😅 Pheno #2 — citrus + spice (no banana peel note) What do you guys think the yield will be? 😱😉

Ça vas bien ce passer aucun soucis

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2307 Well growmies we are at 56 days in and everything is going much better , she's bounced back pretty good👍 really good actually 👌 👉 Shes getting frosty now , and i hope she fills out 👌if she does gonna have some buds on a stick 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👈 Even with early major issues due to the soil/medium she's come a long way 👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

The first ak was harvested much earlier, when it was just a few days old, but I decided to update both together. 10 days of drying time. ak1 harvested when 70 days old ak2 harvested when 87 days old 12/12 from seed Watering with filtered tap water every 2/3 days, when the pot is lighter, 500-1000ml Soil: peat, coconut powder, perlite, carbonized rice husk, sheep manure and worm humus. essential mineral mix, vegetable flours, vegetable cakes, biochar, bokashi EM1 and other organic inputs, Algae ascophyllum nodosum small pots 3,7liters // 1gallon light: lm301h-evo 120watts with other plants

[ Information ] For all grow information, including strain and room details, please see the first week of veg. [ Updates ] (Flower) Day 1 - Light intensity increased to 65%. C02 increased to 1300ppm average. Day temp/humidity 85/70 (1-1.2VPD), night temp/humidity 75/65 (.8-1VPD). Fed a diluted compost tea mixture before lights on. Base water was R/O and tap water mixed lightly with silica and Tribus microbes. Tea was a mixture of Fish Hydrolysate, Bat Guano, Molasses, Fulvic/Humic, Kelp, and Earthworm Castings. 8 gallons of tea were added to 72 gallons of water mixture for an 80gal batch total. The batch was mixed for a half hour before feeding to the room. I did not PH or PPM test the mixture, organic material is hard to get an accurate PPM reading so the numbers are useless to me. I will be working to bring the lights to 100% power over this first week of flower. Day 4 - Light intensity increased daily, currently at 90%. Will raise to full power tomorrow. C02 increased to 1800ppm average. Temp and humidity for day and night are still the same. Lights were raised slightly to maintain 12 inches from canopy height, and a few growth nodes that were above the canopy got topped. Watered today with an 80gal (1.25gal p/pot) mixture, 10% tap 90% r/o water. 6.8 PH, 2.2ec. Foliar sprayed yesterday before lights off with a neem mixture for weekly IPM. Canopies are stretching relatively evenly, though I will be adding in support nets within a few days to help maintain the even spread. I've run this strain before so I'm fairly confident that I know what to expect during these few stretch weeks. Day 7 - Lights have been at 100% since day 5. C02 still 1800-2000ppm on average. Plants are stretching quickly into the lights, I have yet to readjust their height. The best growth usually happens when I do nothing, and I've done almost nothing the past couple days besides enjoy the unusually warm spring weather my area is currently experiencing. Watered today, 100gal (1.5gal p/pot) mixture, <1ec. Mainly an organic feeding for microbe health, also wanted a bit more runoff than normal due to the high ec feeding previously.

She was pretty much on AutoPilot all week. Growing and drinking like crazy.Running out of head room and i hope she gets the point here soon lmbo… More below ⬇️⬇️⬇️ 8/16: Trimmed down dead/half dead leaves from bottom of plant. Feels good to see just all green without the couple of eye sores. She still a sexy girl! Topped of rez with the rest of her nutes in half gallon jug. I’m n to half gal jug of water before next nutrient batch mix. 8/17: Just been topping off the rez all day! She has been drinking heavy! Will need to mix another batch of nutes tomorrow. 8/18: Mixed new batch of nutes today. Mixed in gallon jug. Split into half gallon jug. Topped off rez with full half gallon jug then some plaint water from half gallon jug. 8/20: Mixed another batch of nutes for the week.