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I am feeding with tps one and CalMag oac one time, then it’s back to regular tap water (well water) that comes at 8.5 pH with 156ppm of tds. The feed was approx a pH of 6.5. More importantly is the consistent soil pH which appears fixed at 6.8 I know it’s lazy! However…. I have noticed doing this to reveal to me that the soil pH is very stubborn and not easily changed by the pH of the water alone. Stuff in the water can definitely have an impact. But still, most feed waters I use don’t change the soil ph. I do make sure the pH is within a healthy range for soil, something between 6 and 7 I figure is ideal. I’ve found if there is enough lime in the mix, and as long as I don’t over feed soluble nutes, then the soil pH appears stable and fixed. With enough lime in the mix, I can ultimately arrest the soil pH at 7. It’s really cool. I thought adding too much lime would give me something potentially alkaline, and maybe it will. But I’ve added lots of lime before and still haven’t gotten past 7 pH. Maybe I didn’t add enough to go further? Nevertheless I’m not interested in going past 7. I haven’t seen any issues with the speed of growth watering with 8.5 tap water, surprisingly. As I’ve said the soil pH would read 6.8 before and immediately after watering with the 8.5 tap. So….. I’m thinking the stability of the soil pH is a positive indication that the microbes are not being subjected to pH shifts, or at least nothing substantial. I mean, at the end of the day when things are looking good, I feel like I must have something right.
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Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.
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@Canna96
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Hey now, hope everyone is staying safe, good week for the Red Hot Cookies, she is still looking a little deformed with her leaves, but she is green and healthy. The Medic Grow is still running at 30% in the V1 or vegetative stage which is the mostly blue spectrum. I am watering them every other day or so with a small syringe around the edge of the solo cups. I am hoping to transplant them i about 48 hours to 3.4 gallon airpots and hook them up to an automatic fertigation system that feeds every 6 hours or so. I hope everyone has a peaceful weekend, thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled
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Moved into main grow tent with other flowers much cooler environment, on 12 /12 light schedule now and feeding kelp based Dutch science nutrients bloom
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Purtroppo non ci e potuta stare nessuna vendemmia ma occhio e croce avrei raccolto sulle 80-90 gr minimo (secco) purtroppo mi hanno rubato tutto....pezzi di m**** 🔥FAST BUDS THE BEST!🔥
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Bisher überzeugt mich eindeutig die Wizard of Bloom etwas mehr es wächst sehr Homogen unter ihr🌱?🏻🙋‍♂️ aber insgesamt bin ich zufrieden und es geht entspannt weiter Es wird die RLF stückweise runtergefahren Das training nicht mehr so aggressiv fortgesetzt um zu versuchen das Canopy flach zu halten Noch wird TNT gegeben und wir gehen komplett auf Blühcomplex wenn die ersten puschel da sind 👍?☀️
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Week 10, 8-14 July 2024 8-14 July - Observed and let the plant grow. 9 July - Did a light defoliation of older leaves. Pablo continues to stack and swell in bud growth. I’m impressed with just how big her buds are getting. Devine Seeds has some really good genetics here, and she still has about 5 more weeks to go. I see no problems what so ever up to this point. 🍶 8 July nutrient solution changed 🍽️ 8 July feeding schedule updated 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient Solution EC 2.7 at 74 degree F 🔆 Light power at 80%, DLI 40 canopy coverage at 12hrs 😤 Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.
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Day 16-27/12/21 all looking good!!!! Day 20-31/12/21 still haven’t got space in other tent yet so hopefully can move half of them out this one next week!!!!
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@NicoKh
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so normal grown, i've made her some LST technique for a while and respond perfectly, nothing to complain, she wa so strong , if i do it again i'll do topping or fim for sure
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@JayKane33
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The girls are looking good, vibrant and healthy. I'm watering every other day now, up from every three days because they're up taking more liquids. Top dressing as I see fit, once every 4 waterings. Water mixture always has SuperThrive, Molasses and Potassium within it though.
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Huston I think we have an issue.. So the temp in the tent has been getting up to 90% for 4 consecutive days as well as the humidity has risen to 77. I know that it is from my room conditions now that I am running 3 lights in the room and it is causing the overall room temperature to rise. I have ordered a portable AC unit for my grow room and it will be here next Thursday so I can only hold on. Heavy defoliation commenced to try and bring the humidity and temp down as best that I can. The Maui Wowi hermied on me under the heat stress.. but it is too big to let it go so I am plucking Balls daily from anything I see. Also I had to chop the Blue cheese down it was dying from lack of light because you guessed it the Maui Wowi has stolen the show and light.
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This week transplanted all new soon to be Mother plants to 5 gallon fabric pot, the topped plant responded well and is 8 inches, tied down to 7 to open her up, and the heavy rooted runt of the bunch is 6 inches,
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Very good strain to grow would recommend to everyone, very beautiful hash flavours taste dense buds definitely going to grow again
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My girls are verry happy😄the 2 strawberry pie 's are littlebit late.but now are the 2 girls are flowering😋🍭🍬
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Looking strong looking healthy. No complaints. As expected flying along. The conditions above are the tent conditions roughly. But there’s not tent available lol. So these puppies all live under a desk for now with those spider leg LED stations. They’re really cool. Gréât from rotation. As you all know the rules by now here. Parc stays open 24/7. This bud ain’t gonna grow itself. People out there planting trees all day everyday 😂🙏🏼💚
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Umgetopft in Woche 5, alle drei Tage gegossen, davon bei jedem zweiten gießvorgang gedüngt. Haupttrieb in Woche 6 das zweite mal getoppt.
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@Stkz420
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1 sour livers is smelling sweet and lemony other 1 smelling like a zesty liver🤔. Cant quite put my finger on the aroma coming from the northern hog but shes possibly in the best condition she ever has been.
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@kevgrow
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Hey Friends, end of week 9 from seed Plant #1 is growing big, not too much flower yet I started noticing a weird smell coming out from the plant. The nutrients I use do not have a pleasant smell but this smell coming out from the plant smells very weird. When i touch the leaf with my finger it leaves a strong smell like Lemon and green mango which is good, but when I put my nose close to the cola it smells weird like wet socks. I searched for mold and didn't see any signs. The plant looks healthy, humidity is at 51% Temperature 76 f This week I also noticed some of the leaf stems close to the light were turning red, only the top ones were turning red so I lowered light intensity and the stems are slowly turning back to green. Looking forward in seeing some flower development in week 10, will keep you guys posted, see you next week 😊
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📆 Semana 10 La Mentha de Croco entra en su recta final. Los cogollos ya no engordan apenas, pero sí maduran: los tricomas muestran mezcla clara de lechoso y ámbar en las puntas, marcando que el punto óptimo está muy cerca. La resina se espesa, la textura se vuelve más pegajosa y el aroma mentolado gana profundidad. Los pistilos siguen oscureciendo y la planta empieza a mostrar ese “tono final” típico: menos actividad interna, más concentración en rematar terpenos. El riego baja al mínimo, manteniendo solo la hidratación justa antes del lavado final. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!