144v Lux in tenebris lucet. The video on this channel/diary is for inspirational and entertainment purposes only. The ideas shared are not a substitute for professional advice. All materials are used under the principles of fair use, and no copyright infringement is intended. I aim to share timeless wisdom in a respectful manner. Aristotle said "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Those who are able to refrain from judgement long enough to genuinely research and weigh the evidence from all sides of a given subject are those most likely to arrive at the truth. Those who instantly resort to knee-jerk ridicule and continue to believe whatever they were first taught are those most easily deceived. Raised UVB light to final position. (No more very high intensity UV-B inhibiting hypocotyl elongation, including the regulation of growth-inhibiting hormone gibberellin GA). We want LOTS of gibbereeeeelin! Very high light intensity can slow vertical growth, which I call releasing the kraken. She just doesn't want to grow vertically for 18 hours any longer; once the flower is initiated, that goes right out the window. Apical dominance is shattered; you now have every single stem fighting for survival against each other, with none given particular precedence. That is some stretch for a week, explosion. Doesn't matter if they are crowded now; there is space up ahead, and plant perception will fill every inch of available space. The divine intelligence that drives plant growth is far more efficient than any canopy I could make or spread myself. No defoliation. Sometimes you just need to give her what she needs to fill the space herself. All I do is guide the initial framework into the desired outcome, keep everything else flowing and in optimal parameters. Fast-growing leaves to have a lighter green color, sometimes appearing almost yellowish-green, because they haven't had time to produce much chlorophyll yet. New leaves are soft and pale, but they will gradually darken and become a deeper green as they mature and are exposed to light. Every morning, new lime green, with the micros supercharged, may be immobilizing nitrogen in the medium, magnesium was creeping in earlier, so I'll try to hold the line and see what progresses. The ratio of sugar leaves to buds is determined by a combination of hormonal signaling, nutrient availability, and genetics. Sugar levels act as a key signaling molecule, with high sugar availability influencing hormones like auxins and cytokinins to promote bud outgrowth, while nutrient deficiencies can limit development. Specific genes also play a critical role in leaf and bud initiation, expansion, and the overall balance of growth. Buds are like balloons! Need lots of pressure to blow up lots of balloons! Sugar balloons! Plant transpiration and turgor pressure are crucial for bud development because turgor pressure provides the cell expansion needed for growth, while transpiration creates a "pull" that draws water and nutrients up through the plant to fuel this process. High turgor pressure is essential for cells to grow and expand, allowing buds to open and young leaves to unfurl. Transpiration maintains this necessary turgor by driving a continuous flow of water from the soil up to the leaves, where it evaporates. No holding back, this is it, 4-5 weeks of all-out war! What we develop now will be all we have for the final 4-5 weeks. The carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio indicates how much carbon is in a substance relative to its nitrogen, affecting nitrogen availability in soil through microbial activity. A high C:N ratio (like in straw or corn residue) requires soil microbes to use a significant amount of nitrogen for decomposition, temporarily tying it up and making it unavailable to plants. A low C:N ratio results in a more rapid release of nitrogen for plant use. The carbon-to-sulfur C:S ratio in plant residue determines whether soil microbes will immobilize or mineralize sulfur (S) during decomposition. This affects the availability of sulfate SO42, the primary form of S that plants can absorb. Mineralization is the process by which microbes decompose organic matter and release excess nutrients, like sulfate, into the soil in an inorganic, plant-available form. Immobilization is the reverse process, where microbes absorb inorganic sulfate from the soil to meet their own nutritional needs, making it unavailable to plants. Glucose typically uses more oxygen than sucrose in a medium because it can be metabolized more directly, while sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose, which can involve additional energy costs and a slower overall process. However, the efficiency of oxygen use can vary depending on the specific organism and conditions, as some bacteria, for instance, can use sucrose for a growth advantage under certain circumstances by producing exopolysaccharides that are more efficient at oxygen extrusion. Why glucose is generally more oxygen-efficient: •Glucose is a monosaccharide and can be used directly by many organisms in cellular respiration. •It does not require an initial enzymatic step to break it down before entering the metabolic pathway, unlike sucrose. •Due to its direct use, glucose can lead to a faster rate of oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production in comparison to sucrose under typical aerobic conditions. Why sucrose might seem to use more oxygen in certain contexts: •When sucrose is metabolized, it is first broken down into glucose and fructose. This initial hydrolysis is an extra step that requires enzymes. •The fructose component is metabolized differently from glucose, and its specific metabolic pathway can affect the overall oxygen demand. •Some organisms may have regulatory mechanisms that lead to a higher initial oxygen demand when switching from glucose to sucrose, especially if the organisms have specific metabolic pathways that are optimized for sucrose. •While glucose may be used faster, sucrose might provide a growth advantage under certain oxygen-limited conditions due to the specific metabolic pathways and products it can generate. Seems my initial concept of sucrose was inaccurate. Really need to study up on all of this in the coming months. Take care. “A cat has 9 lives” “On cloud 9” “Dressed to the nines” To go “the whole nine yards” “A stitch in time saves nine” “Nine-ness” seems to be synonymous with the maximum, with the furthest extent of what’s possible. With fullness, completion, and when every effort has been exhausted. In the ancient world (which is, let’s face it, is where numbers and their spiritual power were understood SO much more than they are today) the number 9 resonated with sacred structure and the furthest limitations of this world before human experience meets the Divine. Perhaps more than any other, the number nine had an extra special significance, which spread far and wide. It features across pretty much all cultures, worldwide, rippling through culture, mythology, history, law and time. Nine is the central number in the ancient Celtic tradition. Nine expresses through the triple Goddess (see Number 3) and in myths of the nine Celtic maidens or sorceresses. In fact, stories of nine mystical women presiding over nature spread from England, Ireland and Wales to Scandinavia, Iceland, and even as far as Kenya. Even today, it’s tradition for nine groups of nine men to dance around Beltane fires. The limit of winter (which is what Beltane Almost all of the mythological tales from around the world have patterns of the number 9 weaving throughout. The Northern European sagas tell of Odin, who rules over the nine Norse worlds. His trial to win the secrets of wisdom for mankind was to hang on the Yggdrasil tree for nine days. Demeter, the Greek Goddess of the Earth searched for nine days for her daughter Persephone (who was in the underworld with Hades). Demeter is often depicted holding nine pieces of corn. Once recovered, Persephone was obliged to spend three months per year below the ground, and nine months above. Native American, Mayan and Aztec myths tell of a total of nine cosmic levels (and many of the temples comprise 9 stories). And in ancient China, nine was the most auspicious number of divine power: the Chinese had nine sacred rites, nine social laws, nine classes of officials in the government and built nine-story pagodas. In astrology, the planet Mars vibrates to the frequency of the nine. The ninth sign of the Zodiac is Sagittarius (where the Sun sails from November 22nd – December 21st) InTarot, card number nine is the Hermit. In Hinduism, nine is the number of Brahma. In the Greek Sagas, the city of Troy was under siege for nine years. 9

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8/23/2025 Still Feeding Week 4 extended of feeding schedule. Pinching off the mite damaged leaf and some of the fans needed to go. Daylight has entered 13:59 hours. Waiting for front left plant to show sex. The other five have shown female, and unless my eyes are out of focus have a pistil or two at the top. They are starting to stretch. Waiting on Pre-Flower. I'm inclined to think because these are modern hybrids, they might be genetically bred for the 12/12 flip. Just a thought. If they pop by September 8th, I should get a decent flower stage. Looking for 1st week October for harvest. Season is beginning to change. A few months appeared yesterday. Sprayed entire garden with AzaMax and that should hold until the end. The moths bring the budworms. I do have one big grasshopper that hangs out. He fly's away and laughs at me everytime.

I cut it today and it was a nice plant 🍃 and I faced some difficulties in the beginning, but I had a challenge. I thanks to everyone who supported me . I will keep you posted after dry .

things are still on the go..Looking at the tricomes the are still clear with hints of cloudy.. Coming along pretty well. Im just watering with plain water now and just enough for a light runoff. Ec is low already and I don't think I can get it to anything less. Just doing routine maintenence this week. There has been no change in the colour of the leaves and this is the 11th day of. plain water.. Its all a waiting game.. I also changed the light schedule to a 11-13...... its supposed to help in trichome ripening... I hope. 😀 The vanilla Kush looks ready but I'm not sure. If anyone has an opinion on how much longer please share

These have been under the new XS2000 from viparspectra for about a week now. I really love the style of the XS series lights! Hard to beat the LM301B diodes. Check out their black friday deals here https://www.viparspectra.com/?aff=Wicked_Stix&utm_source=affiliate The gutter hoe grow show is going pretty smooth. It is very unusual to watch these plants grow without them being topped. They seem small compared to plants that I top, but they all look pretty healthy. I had an issue with the organic calmag clogging all of my feed lines. This is one of the reasons I usually avoid organics in hydroponics. The organic was all I could get locally so I tried it and it was a fail. I have calimagic on the way though so they will get a dose in a couple days. I see a few signs of mag deficiency but nothing to worry about yet. They have been on 12 12 lighting for over a week but not seeing signs of them maturing enough to flower. I think it will start happening before the end of next week.

These ladies were heavy yielding - just wish the PK booster did not stunt them, I feel they could have even been larger, the buds are sweet and sticky, they smell amazing, they are hard and resinous - they have a beautiful mix of dark and light shades of green with bright orange hairs, very pretty, my friends are already in love with this weed, hits you like a Sativa and as the high lingers mellows like an Indica, I can't, wait to grow this again! The is an urban legend that occasionally a purple strain emerges, and when it does the outcome is legendary, just another reason to try this strain!

Day 50 since seed touched soil. They overgrew everything !!! Devil is HUGE and strong and hungry ;)))) . I think i was late with top up, they developed fast and used a lot. I check run off for ppm, but thought 800 still ok, it was not. So big last top up !!! plus to call it measuring would be sin, i collect all run off, mixed from all 3 plants, but its still gives small feel. ALL NUTRITIONS ARE GRAMS TO POT LITRES !!!! Neutralise is in real measurement only. Great White - 3 g each pot Biosys - 3g each pot Charge - 30 g each pot Life-Cycle - 60 g each pot Bio-Blend - 100 g each pot Watered straight after, 4 liters went in. Some girls are almost brushing Mars Hydro TSL2000 and i see no issues if air is moved and temp with humidity allows it. Great light, plants grow very well, too well ;)))) will do new clearing after two waterings, want girls to eat first, make bigger roots, then i will resize again to concentrate more on tops. MARS HYDRO TSL2000: 300W, Flower 2'x4', Veg 3'x5' It's recommended for beginners. Low-budget & high-efficiency. Took down first time ever LST while still growing. Needed space of pot, for last top up and i think they will breath better without, branches are stiff, i would add silica to feed at such time, to stiff them, but i go with one line only, just full beans ;))) Happy growing !!!

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme.

Si presenta bene veramente bene ...un po' lenta nel gonfiarsi ma promette bene. È piena di tricomi e presenta popcorn rosa e arancioni. Ora devo solo aspettare il mio nuovo giocattolo mars hydro ts 1000 sicuramente avrà una marcia in più! Alla prossima settimana Dajeforte growers!

These is a project in the we try (test) tge products of our sponsors to see how good they genetics are, for example we have know 6 seeds banks on these round. Sweetseeds with the dark devil auto have break the time record for seed on the ground , 20 hours , only these tine have the seeds from sweetseeds on the soil and they just jump out to 2 cm , simple amazing

She's growing a little funky but hopefully she'll come around. Probably because the pot is so small my other, bigger pots are stealing it's light

Finally starting to bud, looking good so far with no deficiencies. Think I might need to start feeding more, cos these ladies are slurping up the water quickly Lets gooo

So I'm on day 14 of flower now and there doing brilliant. They will probably finish there stretch after this week. Another fan coming tomorrow. Day 16 of flower, added new fan for under the netting 👌 plants are rocking now lol still stretching had to raise the light 🤣 temts and humidity are on point, absolutely stinks in the room, and I'm loving it 😀. Day 18 of flip and there getting fatter, starting to produce trichomes now they smell really skunky, I really need to do a defoloation for those lower buds but ill do it day 21 and then its done. Temp and humidity have been good so far highest humidity when lights off was 67% with my fan ac controller set on fan speed 7 and I just watered them that night. Day 20. So today I just performed a major defoliation on the ladys as there was alot of leafs blocking bud sites. I been struggling with humidity these lst few days 😫 so tomorrow I got a big dehumidifier coming tomorrow to hopefully help But other than that everything is going good and entering the week 6 of the biobizz feed charge.

Germination with no problems

Hey guys :-) First of all I have to say that all 5 strains I have in the tent from Amsterdam Genetic are beautiful genetics 👍 . This week they were repotted into 8L fabric pots. When repotting, 2 g of Green House Powder Feeding Bio line were added per liter of substrate :-) . That's enough until the first flowers start 👍. Watering was done twice this week with 0.8 l each. Otherwise everything was cleaned and checked and fresh osmosis water was mixed. Stay healthy 🙏🏻💚 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 https://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/affiliate/MadeInGermany_PassionGrower 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/choco-cheesecake/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Use the coupon code: madeingermany for 10% on all Amsterdam Genetics seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

This week I removed a couple of side branches and did a little defoliation. Annoyingly I noticed fungus gnats but not too bad and iv grown monstors with them before - they don’t seem to go for the buds and I’ll wash anyway. Iv started using the COB either 50w or 100w I can’t remember but I dimmed the Mars hydro one in compensation. Iv also turned off the water and will probably leave it off for a good few days until it may kill them? Who knows… I must admit I am tempted to just chop it now and start again but it’s actually nearly time for the first flower update as I added this one late. We are getting some stretch now. I pinched the top side branches and tucked one of the fan leaves to give more light to the side node at the bottom. I noticed the one on the side of the extra light was bigger so I turned the pot 180 degrees also. This was the first one iv not LST’d yet and tbh, at this stage I’m not sure why they tell you not to. Don’t think I’ll get as big of a yield from this than my smoothie but then I have a while to go yet.

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 56 Took some glamor pics with black background - not really for vanity (although there's a little) but for contrast. I see more of the lockout issue better in the pics this way. - on that note, the ph seems to be working as it's been two days since defoliation and knitting needle ph correction, and the progression is way slower than it was on the last leaves at 3rd day of identifying. So with that, room VPD of 1.07kpa seems stable enough with temps about 76F/65%RH/33%ILV I released the binds today to let her grow without them until they crowd each other too much and I need to restrain - so in a couple of days at max. Day 62 Transfer day. Although at first I didnt think I would be able to until Saturday, I got pots and plant saucers today, so I ended up going ahead and doing it. Started by calibrating/testing both meters. Double checked the soil mix from yesterday as the last time I used wood ash the ph rose the day after... however this time it was fully mixed to I wanted to know if there would be a higher ph - it was the same as yesterady - 5 reading avg of about 6.35 - the slurry of 1:1 soil and 7.7 ph water was tested at 6.3 also. Made about .75 gallon of 75/25 veg/bloom juice water at 500ppm feed water. Tried to ph read the soil in the pot and seen it go from 6.6 down to 6.35 (took video) in the dry soil, so I decided to use the 6.35 new soil reading and ph balanced the feed to that. Used the needles since it was 7 days since the last feed and I am using such a small amount. Poured over needles in 8 places and pulled each out to let water down. the vacuum pulls the water down when I lift the needles. Then I mixed 5tsp of Dynomyco to the 5 gallons of new soil and mixed really good. I placed a layer of perlite on the bottom of the 10 gallon pot and then layered in some soil. Then with the help of my wife we pulled the plant out of the pot and placed it in the 10 gallon. I place back in the tent and added about a quart of plain de-chlorinated water evenly over the new and older soil to help bind them. I reduced lights by 100ppfd to have about 505 and 500 at center colas and 430 lowest on outer ring with most at 450 and 470 highest. Soil to light is 35 inches and the plant is about 14 inches so about 21 inches from leaves to lights. I left the ring off today and will rebind as needed tomorrow after she rests. Today the leaves look wilted and limp. Also reduced humidity to 60% so 58 to 65% should be the range and the temps are 73F with the lights lower. PPFD was higher with the new growth - unbound and tucked in for better cola/light position, it reads 570 to 580 on outer colas and 590 at both center branches Day 57 Getting 1 more day out of free range growth before I tie her back against a ring. So in that time I decided to take a few vanity pics. Overall the ph block seems to have slowed or stopped and she's back to growing again. Will be thinking about flip at the end of this week or so. VPD same stats 76F/65%RH/33%ILV - ppfd right at max so I'll likely tie her off tomorrow. 605 600 in center and 580 to 590 at the outer ring. Day 58 VPD stats mostly steady again today - 76F/65%RH/33%ILV - ppfd was checked after LST, measured 600 at each center cola and the outer ring measured between 550 and 590 most at 580 So as I said, I did LST today to bind her more out while the 4 center 4 colas fill the middle. I had to bind to the pot base instead of the ring as the colas are still a little short to reach for binds at the ring just yet. There's a lot of space to fill and a few (about half) of the out colas are sideways for now. Had a break at the center cola when I tried to pull it back for bind. I knew to hold the branch at the node but forgot to do it here and heard a "snap" ... taped the crack and moved on - will monitor obviously Day 59 Did more light LST to ensure the branches are growing where I want. PPFD was mostly the same as yesterday only now there are more colas around 560 than 580 on the outer ring with the center colas at 610 and 590 (front cola was tied down to spread more away from the ring and fill center better. vpd same as past week or so 76F/65%RH/33%ILV Last feed was on day 54 and the soil still seems damp so I will check again tomorrow for the next day. (Day 61) The broken branch doesnt seem to have affected either side of the split as both sides seem to have grown a little with little to no wilt or drooping leaves. Im hoping it heals okay and doesnt delay flip to recover more; still monitoring. Day 60 Did some light LST today by releasing the lower binds to the pot and attached as couple to the outer ring now. So far I only have to bind a few as most are already holding where i want them to. Took the tape off the split and seen I didnt seel the gap closed when I taped it so now Im considering a drop of super glue to bind the branch back in hopes it grows onto the other side again. If not at least it would be more secure than it is now. And since it's a main split for 4 colas, I dont want too restrict it by binding at the split and potentially cutting off the nutrient pathways. ppfd after LST was 610 and 600 after more LST and the outer ring is still ranging 550 to 580 with more at 560 now. VPD same as I havent messing with any of the variables. 76F/65%RH/33%ILV Soil is a bit dry and it's been 5 days since the last feed flush, so I have about 3 gallons of tap burning of chlorine now for a feed tomorrow morning. Might still update again later if I find superglue... found some superglue - tried to take pictures but I cant hold, squeeze the applicator, and film with just two hands. So the idea gets through, I did both sides. On a side note I discovered a root popping out of the soil from the top. Covered it up but wasn't sure if I should be concerned. Day 61 VPD same as it's been for most of the last week - 74F/65%RH/33%ILV PPFD was recorded after I turn the plant a quarter turn for the smaller colas struggling to get over he ring's edge to have more light. Most colas at 580 with a couple at 600 and a couple more at 550 - center colas are hitting 615 and 620, but I have plancs to reduce in the next couple of days now On that note, the root growing out of the top tells me that she's hungry and needs more root space, even if that means growing through the top of the soil. So I plan to transplant to a 10 gallon and flip after the recovery. After reviewing more of NugBucket's journal I realized this is why he moves them when growing 16 colas. New pots should be here Friday so I should be able do it on Saturday. So I prepped soil (using more Happy frog with mycorrhizal fungi already growing in it for a few weeks) with de-chlorinated tap water Started by ph testing the soil and the water (4 readings on soil at 5.03 avg) - added about 1/2 cup total of wood ash to bring up the ph , mixed and tested again - added water at (about 7.7 ph) and tested again... last 5 readings in soil was 6.24,6.3,6.35,6.37,6.38 avg of 6.328 - covered and let rest until needed. Since I plan to transplant in a few days I felt it would be best to 'lightly' feed tomorrow, again on transplant day, and again 2 to 3 days later. Since my wife was taking pics at this time, I could only find this one to show the roots growing into the perlite then we planted it in the bigger pot. -------- (Day 62 root base picture from above) I have a hypothesis that says these are so short because I intentionally tried not to move the plant without the base stand to keep it from grinding these up and allowed them to grow in the last 2 weeks. This is that test picture/results. I like the idea of better/more drainage, but thinking I am doing more harm each time I hear those gravel pieces crunch as it cuts those and forces the plant to look somewhere else for root space. Notice how the small root lines have no finer pieces or laterals grow out from these - I believe that is because they are so new in growth and that the perlite chewed up the smaller laterals even with little to no movement over the last two weeks I would like to see a root ball experiment that exposed the roots throughout the grow but for now I can see these roots do grow into the base perlite and need to be handled carefully if you want them to grow more freely or with a standard pot size. As you can see Im not root bound but my plant thinks it is and is growing roots out the top.