Ladies looking really good 😎👌🏻💚🙏🏻 they are in two different tents but all from the same beans rdy to chop of at any time ! dense flowers strong smell !

These ladies continue to develop very nicely and lucky stopped stretching pretty much in the beginning of this week and the buds are forming super nicely. Since I also don’t observe a stretch in flower anymore, I decided to feed pk13/14 for the next week. It continues to surprise me how hungry these autos are, much hungrier than my glookies fro example. Unfortunately I realized that the plant on the very right of the box produces much smaller buds than the other two. I am pinning that on the fan right above her, so have pointed it slightly higher, but I guess the damage is done:(.

This girl grew up to be 77 days old. She grew short and without training, focused most of her energy to her main top cola. Even with the cheap Chinese leds shes got dense and really does pack a punch with a strong aroma and flavor. I'm thinking I should probably get more of these beans while they're are still available because she could easily be end up being added to the favorites list. I'll probably put a few nugs away for a long term cure. She was a pleasure to grow.

Coming to the finish line. Not sure if the plant really got better after the lockout, it is running without nitrogen so yellowing/losing leafs is to be expected anyway. Planning to chop in exactly 10 days.

Week 10 of flowering! This last week has been one of the most challenging when it came to climate, After I stopped C02 the humidity levels just continued to climb and the AC and Dehumidifier could not keep up. I'm guessing this has to do with the sheer volume of the plants in the airspace, and without the additional C02 keeping the stomas partway closed. I've decided to just leave the tent open during the day and its sits right at 55% humidity. Now on to the flush...

Week 5 of

We back with some buckets! Time to fire up the pumps and get this show on the road. Soaked this beautiful little gem of a bean in some water until it cracked then threw it into the bucket with 100% perlite. Started them on a low dose of maxigro on day 3. Doing these diy Dutch Bucket style as always. Going to be running 8 in house genetics strains on the system with constant 24 hour a day irrigation. Not much exciting going on yet, but with a little luck that may change pretty soon.

5oz per plant of dry bud … really nice

Strain: Fast Buds – Gorilla Melon Grow Type: Indoor Pot Size: 5 Gallon Medium: Peat Moss & Perlite Nutrient Line: Athena (Bloom) Week 16 – Chop Time Chop time ✂️🌿 She finished beautifully. Frostyyy up from top to bottom and looking absolutely gorgeoussss This run was smooth from start to finish no issues, no stress, just solid growth Really happy with how she turned out and can’t wait to dry her out and see how she smokes. Feeding Flushed — no nutrients. Indoor Climate Conditions 🌡️ Temperature: 18–26°C 💧 Humidity: 45–55% 📈 VPD: ~1.3–1.8 kPa See y’all next week for dried buds! Use code ISLANDT for 15% off your next Fast Buds order 🌿🔥

I want this monster to turn purple so im gonna drop the night temp to 13• degrees for one week!

The pound cake auto is really taking off. I’m happy I didn’t top the plant and just let it do its thing. It’s gonna have big long bugs all over the whole plant is just gonna be nugs. Not sure what I did with this plant but I got the roots perfect this time and it’s showing it the growth of the plant

Es war eine gute Woche 👍 Milde Temperaturen und kaum Regen, dazu Wind und Sonne. Die Blüten werden dicker 🙂 die ersten unteren Fächerblätter vergilben und fallen ab. Die Larry og ist in Blütewoche 4, die AK in Blütewoche 2, Lemon in der 3. Es läuft ziemlich gut 👍 😊 bis nächste Woche ✌️

A few weeks into flower now for the original Malt MIlkshake MM#1 with heavy purple punch face off terps and the MM#2 is smelling like a sweet gassy waffle cone DO NOT SLEEP ON CLEARWATER GENETICS!

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

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D64: Well, as I mentioned in yesterday´s report, she has some kind of deficiency I cannot tell why, so I presume it is salt buildup - which I can see from outside the pot a little more than usual - from the heavy feeding. So in that regard I flushed her and watered until it runs with 6.2 pH water. Did a little defoliation for the last time, from now on she won´t be getting anymore training nor defoliation. I expected her to be a little bigger by now but at least the seems like a fast runner and will probably finish on the estimated time by RQS of 10-11 weeks. D65: The deficiency don´t seem to have evolved. From day to night she developed some nice purple on the leaves! D66: The defiency seems to have stopped and she has a lot of dying leaves, I think it´s natural and not related to the deficiency. D69: She is getting ready.. the thricomes are looking overall about 60-70% cloudy with some clear and amber, some more days, maybe a week and she´s done. D70: Well, last day of the week and unfortunately last day of the life of this beautiful girl. I guess she had 1 or 2 more weeks still but today I woke up and she had mold – Botrytis -. It was on the low buds, closer to the ground even tho I didn´t even water, but the problem I found out later what it was: 88% humidity during the night. Now, I trimmed her all and put to dry, which will be a problem since the humidity outside is 90% and it doesn´t stop raining in this time of the year. Let´s see how things go... keep following for the harvest week and review in a few. Thank you very much for reading my diary. Peace ✌️

Hey everyone :-). There is not much to tell this week :) A few came to the flowering tent, 2 are still in the vegi phase for 2 days and then come last to the flowering tent :-) The Blue Cheese and the Kosher Tangie Kush smell very good and how they should 😍👍 It will be difficult to choose 2 mums :-). I wish everyone a nice week 👌 Let it grow