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@Kayotic
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*Day 79 *Week 6 of flower * Watering a gallon of plain PH'd tap water every other day * Love the smell!! * Just waiting at this point * I think she is bigger than the Blueberry Photo I did!!
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@osmrducks
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Day 15: Did a lil LST on the GG. She was getting rather tall! They both look great, though! Still no nutes. Day 16: No new updates today. I did bend the GSC over tho. Day 17: Gave em a drink today. They are lookin great! 💪 Day 18: They dry out too quick so I gave em a real good drink and will let em dry out really good next go. They are looking wonderful! This batch is growing awful slow it seems like. Nothing like my OG Kush I have going. Day 19: Busy, no updates. Day 20: So, I am embarrassed to say that I have been letting them dry out too severely. I mis-interpreted the wet/dry cycle. I guess your not supposed to let them dry out for 3-4 days at a time, LOL!! :| Lesson learned. :) Day 21: They are both looking really great! So freaking tiny though. But it is my mistake these girls are already in flower. I will try them again for sure. Dunkin some seeds here directly.
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@Rele99
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In the last two weeks I had some problems taking care of her, I was out most of the time and it kept raining. She's really doing her best and the flowers, even though they're small, are nearly ready. Still having a lot of troubles with mites, I hope I'm not gonna end up smoking them🤢🤣 Also, I have to keep using neem oil and I know it's going to effect the taste, but I really can't do anything else
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My second hydro grow and it seems I failed a bit here: 1. Too little defoliation and airflow 2. More light to mid and lower branches. Low light and low airflow made the buds stretch a lot and be airy, not taking much light made them white and mostly tasteless (cardboard taste). Upper branches brings the sweet taste of this strain up but effects were quite low. Even thou the high is enjoyable and taste from upper buds are tolerable. Lower and mid buds gone to trash unfortunately. I'll stop for this Summer with Hydro, but will try my 3th time in winter
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Stoney_Stark Week 2 Update — Sticky Broccoli Auto Grower: Stoney Stark / Little Lilly Farms Stage: Early Veg (Week 2) ⸻ Growth Overview Plants are establishing well and responding positively to automation. No visible stress from the siphoning incident. What initially appeared to be a nitrogen deficiency was later identified as a magnesium deficiency common in coco systems, with a light green fade also indicating the early onset of nitrogen demand. ⸻ Irrigation & Automation • Transitioned to auto-irrigation emitters this week • Distribution appears even across all plants • Initial siphoning issue identified and corrected by removing pump after feed cycle • Monitoring pot weight closely to avoid overwatering ⸻ Watering & Feeding Log 1/29 — First Auto-Irrigation Run • Amount: ~¼ gallon per plant • PPM: 420 • pH: 5.9 Nutrients (per gallon): • 0.5 ml Silicium • 4 ml Cocos A • 4 ml Cocos B • 2 ml Power Roots • 3 ml Pure Zym • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic • 2 ml Photo+ • 1 ml Fish Sh!t Notes: First run with emitters. Feed appeared evenly distributed. ⸻ 1/31 — Siphoning Incident • Issue: 5-gallon bucket siphoned into all 4 plants • Result: No negative plant response observed Nutrients (per gallon): • 0.5 ml Silicium • 4 ml Cocos A • 4 ml Cocos B • 2 ml Power Roots • 3 ml Pure Zym • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic • 2 ml Photo+ • 1 ml Fish Sh!t ⸻ 2/1 — Auto-Irrigation Dialed In • Feed Time: 1 minute • Runoff: Small amount • Adjustment: Pump removed immediately after feed to prevent siphoning Observations: • Noticed early light green coloration initially interpreted as nitrogen deficiency • Adjustments made to increase available nitrogen Nutrients (per gallon): • 0.5 ml Silicium • 4 ml Cocos A • 4 ml Cocos B • 2 ml Power Roots • 3 ml Pure Zym • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic • 2 ml Photo+ • 1 ml Fish Sh!t • +2 ml additional Cocos A • +1 ml Royal Rush ⸻ 2/2 — Moisture Hold • Pots felt heavy • Decision made to skip watering for 1–2 days to avoid overwatering ⸻ 2/3 — Light Auto Feed + Deficiency Diagnosis • Feed Time: 1 minute • Pots: Still holding moisture; irrigation paused for the next couple days Updated Diagnosis: • What initially appeared to be nitrogen deficiency was confirmed to be magnesium deficiency, common in coco when running low-mineral water • The light green coloration also indicates the beginning stages of increased nitrogen demand Correction Plan: • Adding Scientetics MagCal at 2 ml per gallon starting next feed to supply readily available magnesium and calcium • Nitrogen levels maintained via Cocos A and Royal Rush without over-increasing EC Nutrients (per gallon): • 0.5 ml Silicium • 6 ml Cocos A • 6 ml Cocos B • 3 ml Power Roots • 4 ml Pure Zym • 4 ml Photo+ • 2 ml Fish Sh!t • 1 ml Royal Rush • (MagCal to be added next feed) ⸻ Issues & Adjustments • Magnesium deficiency: Identified and corrected with planned MagCal supplementation • Early nitrogen demand: Being met through controlled increases to Cocos A and Royal Rush • Overwatering risk: Managed via pot-weight monitoring and irrigation pauses • Auto-irrigation: Functioning correctly after siphon fix ——— Deficiency Learning Note This week provided a useful reminder about how nutrient deficiencies present in coco-based systems. What initially appeared to be early nitrogen deficiency was identified as magnesium deficiency, which commonly manifests as a light green fade and interveinal chlorosis on lower leaves. In coco, magnesium can become limiting even when using coco-specific base nutrients, particularly when running low-mineral or RO water. The light green coloration also coincided with increasing nitrogen demand as the plants transitioned deeper into vegetative growth. Rather than aggressively raising EC, the correction strategy focused on restoring magnesium availability while maintaining balanced nitrogen levels. ⸻ Plan for Week 3 • Introduce Scientetics MagCal at 2 ml/gal • Allow pots to dry slightly before next irrigation • Monitor color correction in new growth • Fine-tune auto-irrigation timing and volume • Gradually increase feed strength as plants size up
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Die Green Poison F1 Fast Version von Sweet Seeds ist jetzt in der 10ten Woche am wachsen. Am Anfang der Woche ist die Green Poison von Ihren 3,2 Liter Topf in ein 10 Liter Topf umgezogen. Jetzt kann Sie die Wurzeln wieder wachsen lassen. 😂 In der Woche habe ich bei der Green Poison nix an der Nährlösung geändert. Auch wenn die Green Poison ein leichten Nährstoffmangel hat werde ich Sie erstmal weiterhin nur bei jeden 2ten mal Gießen mit Dünger versorgen. Bei Fragen und Verbesserungen einfach Schreiben! Viel Spaß und Erfolg mit eurer Lieblingspflanze!
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09/02/22 started a Black Lemon auto for seedsman small pot competition. Fox Farm Happy Frog soil The growing container holds approximately 12 ounces of soil. 09/06/22 we have seedling.
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This week I switched from feeding them the General Hydroponics MaxiBloom to KoolBloom. I kept the same pattern with feeding. I feed them the nutrients then just pH'd plain H20 the following day. I pH at 5.8-5.9. I also defoliate as I go so the plant doesn't get stressed out and stop focusing on flowering. These ladies are definitely starting to stink and get sticky!
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Un altra settimana è passata e tutto procede bene.per fortuna non ho più trovato nessun nanners 🙏✌️💪..belle piantine mie, continuate così che farete delle belle pannocchie.... 30/8/24 gente ho combinato una bella cazzata.pur avendo esperienza, mannaggia a me,mi sono portato a casa dentro il box, il cazzo di ragnetto rosso... fanculo... Ho già iniziato a ripulire tutto, box e piante con Neem...li sterminerò tutti 😂..
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Week 2 is complete and the plant is slowly building structure. Growth has been steady and the new leaves are forming well. Overall the plant looks healthy and stable. Watering: Throughout the entire week I only used well water, without measuring or adjusting pH. Watering was kept light to avoid over-saturating the living soil. The plant received about 300 ml every two days. Environment: Days have been warm and fairly dry. Around 28–32°C at noon, with relative humidity ranging between 35% and 55%. The plant appears to be handling these outdoor conditions well. Changes made at the very start of Week 3: - Applied a light root feeding: 1 ml Max Root mixed in 400 ml of well water. - Watering schedule will now shift slightly to ~400 ml every three days as the root system expands. - The fabric pot was moved into direct sunlight to increase daily light exposure. - Added a straw mulch layer to help regulate soil temperature and retain moisture in the living soil.
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If you are lonely when you are alone, then you are in bad company. Bee pollen is considered a “vitamin bomb” due to the presence of almost all vitamins with an average of 0.02–0.7% of its total content, with a higher amount of water-soluble than fat-soluble vitamins. Bee pollen contains vitamins A, D, E, B1, B2, B6, and C. It also provides minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, copper, manganese, iron, and selenium, I mixed a bunch of that with some honey and RAW cane molasses to make a nice big bucket of tea. A family friend who is a beekeeper was kind enough to share some honey. The nutritional content of raw honey is impressive and includes high levels of protein, amino acids, B vitamins, calcium, manganese, potassium, magnesium, zinc, and iron, as well as various polyphenolic antioxidants. I am loading up nature's finest sugars, and sweet things, Honey & Mollases. UV-B-induced DNA damage (CPDs and 6–4 PPs) can be repaired efficiently by photolyases. Pyrimidine dimers can be repaired by nucleotide excision repair (NER), or bypassed by replicative polymerases (Britt 2004). The expression of the CPD photolyase (PHR) gene is induced by UV-B light dependent on UVR8 signaling pathway, and is also induced by blue and UV-A light (Li et al. 2015) https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s44154-022-00076-9?fromPaywallRec=true Old but gold. The camera picks up far more light than there is during the night cycle, camera is showing bright pink violet collages but my eyes barely see a thing, about 0.25ppfd in that tent overnight. Have been tweaking the spectrum of moonlight/intensity and watching the responses overnight. Tweak, tweak, tweak all week. PAR is 400-700nm, Overnight UVA in the tent is all 365nm and 385nm, so the meter only picks up a fraction of the light curve that makes it photosynthetically active past 400nm. Of the light in the tent, 0.25ppfd is from UVA Looks like It makes them 🕺 🕺 💃 all night. Better flower soon or ill be screwed for space, they are stretching, but is it "the stretch"? She has fire in her belly. Growing crops with insufficient light (i.e., below “optimal,” as defined here) limits the yield potential, which in turn wastes the other production inputs including labour, water, nutrients and electricity. As lighting fixture is one of the most expensive investment of the production, what is the relationship between light intensity and yield? Potter and Duncombe (2012) grew cannabis plants with varying canopy-level PPFDs during the flowering stage and found that increasing PPFD from 400 to 900 μmol·m−2·s−1 increased yield an average of 1.3 times higher, across seven cultivars, with no light intensity treatment effects on floral cannabinoid concentrations. Vanhove et al. (2011) found that cannabis yields were 1.3 to 3.1 times higher (depending on cultivar) when plants were grown under approximately 1000 μmol·m−2·s−1 compared to approximately 450 μmol·m−2·s−1 during the flowering stage.It was predicted that cannabis yield would exhibit a saturating response to increasing Light intensity, thereby signifying an optimum light intensity range for indoor cannabis production. However, a new research from Morrison (2021), after 81 days‘ experiment, found that When plants grew under LI ranging from 1200 to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1 provided by light emitting diodes (LEDs), inflorescence yield increased linearly as LI increased up to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1. "Cannabis will not stop flowering if the lights are turned on for a few minutes once or twice during the 2-month-long flowering cycle. If a light is turned on for 5 to 30 minutes—long enough to disrupt the dark period—on 3 to 5 con­secutive nights, plants will start to revert to vegetative growth." "Less than one half of one foot-candle of light (0.1ppfd) from sunlight will prevent cannabis from flow­ering. That is a little more light than is reflected by a full moon on a clear night. Well-bred indica-dominant plants will revert within three days. Sativa-dominant plants take four to five days to revert to vegetative growth. Once they start to revegetate, it can take from four to six ad­ditional weeks to induce flowering again!" Guess ill find out my answer soon.
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No han habido muchos cambios en cuanto a la nutricion. Añadimos un poco de Recharge, agua y estare añadiendo un producto para engordar las flores. Los mantengo al tanto, buenos humos!
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The plants are growing nicely! They were all flushed with plain pH balanced water on Friday and will be fed nutrients listed above on: 5/31
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Starting to bud up & the gelatos are stretching quite a bit at 30" to 24" on the LSDs. Runoff PPMs are running a bit high at 1183/pH 5.7 average last watering, going to flush straight water next time.
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Start of week 5 day 29 12/12 All going well plants starting to produce resin Increased EC to 1.4
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@HoddZ
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Not much happening this week. Unfortunately i may have overfed PK as thought the bottle said 7ml per L but instead was 0.7ml. Noticed tips of leaves the next day browning so checked the feed chart again and pretty much shit myself. Flushed all 3 plants for about 5 mins and now they seem ok hopefully.
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@RunWithIt
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They're super happy adjusting to the new tent and 5 gallon containers. It's been 2 weeks since I first moved them in here and so I flipped them today. So 3 weeks from now we should be seeing buds :) I also raised the light about 10-12 cm to hopefully encourage more vertical growth. I plan on lollipopping them in about a week or so, too. Cover crop is sprouting so that's a great sign also.
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@Ema26
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Hey guys! I chopped all the top half of the plant on 6/4 21:30 and the bottom half on 7/4 23:00. It’s now the 9/4 at 11:30 all of it sits in jars. Dried quicker than I wanted it to but all the buds were very dry too touch so I jarred them. I figured it was easier to remove moisture from the jars than it is to put moisture back into them so hopefully this plan works out🤞 she has a hay smell to her and I’m hoping this goes while curing her. All the nugs look great and some are mega dense and others are very airy. The more airy ones being from lower down I just didn’t have time to keep her going. She weighed in at 110+ grams wet, But I didn’t weigh any of the lower nugs. Dry weight all combined is 35.8 grams. 9.2g from the bottom half and 26.6g from the top half. I’ll re weigh it once I’m done curing. Very happy with this first grow I wasn’t expecting to have this good of a finish even if it isn’t the best💪 both jars are around 21c, the jar with smaller nugs has been sat at 55%-65% and the bigger nugs are getting up to %70 so I’ve been opening the big ones letting the humidity go back down again. I don’t expect to get the drying and curing done %100 but that’s what the first grow is all about. Roll on to my next 3 plants harvest day😎 I smoked all the material that went through the sieve while trimming and damnnn.. tasted like something out of Amsterdam. If the flowers end up like that I’ll be very happy😁 I’ll be adding a smoke report once she’s ready, really looking forward to it🤣 Id like to give a huge thanks to everyone who has helped and advised me on this journey! I’m taking all the info onto my next grow a lot more confident. My next 3 plants are doing brilliantly so far I’d appreciate it if you’d check them out! Onwards and upwards, stay safe and happy growing everyone! With thanks Ema26😎🍁🌱