WEEK 8 FLOWER

01/25/2022 Reppoted one but need bigger pots, developing nice side shoots for plenty of clones. One more week in small pots need to buy new ones

Day 7 of Flowering Seven days ago, the ladies were switched into the flowering phase. To facilitate the transition, a final top-dressing was applied. Ingredients: 200g Bloomshoot (couple of plants) 150g Remineral (couple of plants) 50g Algae Meal (couple of plants) 50g Volcanic Rock Dust 2L PK Compost Tea Last time Foliar feeding mg12 and power flour from rootinn Defoliation was carried out at the end of the first week, focusing primarily on the lower sections of the plants.

Coming soon

Moved the girls to a make shift greenhouse. The smells are coming in…so are the stink bugs lol

First plant got a bunch of lockouts from the feed so I did an emergency flush..don't wanna mess with it anymore or cause nutrient burn on plant #2 so just water for the upcoming week. Will probably skip Cha Ching all together...not sure yet. Doesn't seem to me that either plant even needs it. Growing super frosty thoooo! Buds filling out I doubt they will get much thicker but I don't care...pretty exciting to watch them grow into their final form. I think these will be my best plants grown to date!!! :) Did a good amount of defoliation to get more light to the lower buds. Also cracked open my Mother Earth Coco Coir block for my next two grows and topped off these 5 gallon pots..the plants definitely seemed happier with that fresh layer added! Getting closer to the finish line!!

10/5 Day 28 - LED lamp now on 24h - Water: Both plants got 1L of water with nutes. Summary for the day: I still do some LST but truing to do less and focusing on spreading the tops. LED in 40cm full effect. Did some defoliation today but not sure if I'm doing right. - 12/5 Day 30 - LED lamp now on 24h - Water: Both plants got 1L of water with nutes increased to 1.5ml because it's been 10 days since I started with giving them 1ml each time they got water. Now I started to see they drink much more. Last time it was 3 days between watering. This time it was only 1 day since they got 1L water. Maybe increase 1L to 1.5L next time. Summary for the day: I still do some LST but truing to do less and focusing on spreading the tops. LED in 40cm full effect. Did some defoliation today as well. - 14/5 Day 32 - LED lamp now on 24h - Water: Nothing Maybe increase 1L to 1.5L next time. Summary for the day: I still do some LST but truing to do less and focusing on spreading the tops. LED in 40cm full effect. Did some defoliation today as well. - 15/5 Day 33 - LED lamp now on 24h - Water: Both plants got 1L of water with 1.5ml nutes x2 (A+B)

Plant shows signs of flowering. Smell is also being perceived although is weak. Plants were fed with Arber plant food. The winds seem like finally calming down.

Room is starting to yellow out too soon. Going to hit with a full strength feeding today. I’m still hoping for more swell by day 29. Although for my first indoor run I’m pretty happy. I know what to do for next round and got a sick game plan. The blackberry breath pheno is looking almost done already. I hope it continues to swell because it’s already thick as fuck. I found a small underdeveloped pollen sack on the slurricane #4 that scared the shit out of me. I chopped it off and inspected the whole plant but only found the 1.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Day 79 11/28/2021- Welcome to week four of flower. Today fed nutrients and did a defoliation to take off the smaller buds that won’t get enough light. Day 81 11/30/2021- Just water her today. Day 82 12/01/2021- Trying something new. Day 83 12/02/2021- Water day for them. Also camera needed update but made it work. IOS/ANDRIOD PAR METER APP. It is very accurate highly recommended this for everyone. https://apps.apple.com/us/app/photone-grow-light-meter/id1450079523 Day 84 12/03/2021- Last day of the week, and Wow the grow is amazing!

3Mar-16Mar

she has its growth in 2 parts in its flowering. We are in winter and its growth is still slow. It already has a strong smell...

She seems happy. It’s been another good week of growth. I’m cutting out the bio-grow completely for next week. I might give her some later in the grow if she looks like she needs it. Also, I’m gonna dial back the bio-bloom back to 2ml/L. Her buds are increasing in size and the smell is getting stronger. I feel like I might be about a week behind in terms of flower due to the stress from such heavy defoliation and losing most of her fan leaves, but overall I’m happy with how she’s coming along. Thank you for the likes and support 🙌 Have a good week growers 🍻💥