Jusqu’à présent ça va je pense . J’ai ajouté le 20 avril 20 un peu de tonte de gazon par dessus pour couvrir un peu et par temps chaud j’ai l’impression que ça garde la terre à la bonne humidité.

Its supper time I'll be back. Hello. This week went smooth. It's powdery mildew season outside, my zucchini, squash, cucumbers and pumpkin, all have it. I spray everything with half an ounce of apple cider vinegar to1 quart of water. I've been trying to keep the humidity down and be proactive about it. Treat the root zone with cal mag. Spray something on the leaves (not fungicide). The buds are fattening up. Still a few weeks to go. I flower for 10 weeks, and flush for the last 14 days. I'll add more later. Have Fun and Chuckles! I mentioned in week 3 I had the chance to take some clones from 3 stressed plants. Barneys Farm Pink Kush made it through, but the Godfather Kush OG and the Tom Ford Pink Kush didn't. Luckily when I phoned him he said " Yea come over, I want to get your opinion of my plants anyway". So I'll keep ya updated. Chuck. Wow, he gave me a small plant of Tom Ford Pink Kush. A bit of welling and dealing. And I got 1 cutting of the Godfather Kush OG. So one more try at that one. It was a hot and windy day here 29 c. in the greenhouse. Chuck. It's monday and I change my nutriant water, and put time into the plants. Pruning, trimming and training. With experance you can see what needs to be done to get what you want. Chuck.

Great week. Growing non stop, might be pretty big if all goes well. Buds starting. I also do the tucking of the leaves as much as possible before I start defoliation

Week 4 ( 22/8/23 - 28/8/23)

On entame la 4ieme semaine de croissance Tout ce passe très bien , la plante évolue rapidement et je continue le palissage pour essayer d’élargir la plante au max

The Tropicanas are forming some nice Buds. This week the change to Plagron Nutrition and a higher EC was made. Plants are constantly beeing defoliated due to little space :D

I actually harvested Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. First harvest was tallest buds only, they were probably 30% amber. Second harvest was the rest of the upper canopy three days later. Third harvest was the lowest buds.

F week 7 started 11/23/24. My power supply or lamp broke down 11/30/24. I fortunately manage to buy a new light system. I bought ViparSpectra P2000 250W. Now i've moved into the LED era.

Good week overall

Die Umwelt Bedingungen sind genau wie in der Woche 1... Temperatur min max = 21 grad in der Nacht, 26 am Tag. Luftfeuchtigkeit min max-= 58-66 %. Jeden 2 Tag die Pflanzen gegossen mit PH 5,9. Insgesamt bin ich mit der Entwicklung zufrieden, da es keine Probleme gab.

SETUP: -MIGRO 100 -Grow space 60X60X160 (Mammoth PRO 60). -Grow medium is Gold Label Special Mix Gold edition Premium, Airpot (10l). _____________________________ 29th August - Day 6 (Day 8 Beer Cup) - Gave them 50ml of 💧each. The Beer Cup one is looking like she needed more water. _____________________________ 1st September - Day 9 (Day 11 Beer Cup that's been transplanted) - I need to support both cause the tip over if not :( _____________________________ 6th September - Day 14 (Day 16 "Beer Cup") - Gave Final Pot 100ml of 💧. Nothing for "Beer Cup". Increased the LED from 1/5 of strength to 2/5 of strength.

I think Iv burnt one of the Santa Marta’s, can anyone confirm this from the videos/photos ? Other then that all is well. I actually just flipped to 12/12 to start flowering the photoperiods that are surrounding the 4 autos. Might try a scrog net for the fist time when the autos are done. Stay high growmies 🤙🐞

Beginning of Week 2, Day 8 everything is looking good. Auto OG berry seeds 3/3 did not sprout. Dead seeds. everything else came within 2 Days after soil plantin Day 9 We noticed some weird leaf spots. Maybe ph off... we can' treat ph yet. Added low dose Grow nutes 1ml/l to at least counteract the water ph a bit. They grow super fast and the soil was a 50/50 mix with light soil so We figured maybe a few nutes couldn't harm them. Transplanting will be in about 4 Days. Day 11 some spots on the first real leaves , probably just burnt, because of myco powder on the leaves on Day 4... Still growing fast. Lamp was raised to 30 cm. we would like to have a bit more stretch.. They also have a bit too much water imho, but we had to water one time before transplanting, which would be the 12th or 13th day. Only minor problems so far, if any:) Day 13 today we transplanted the plants into their final 5l containers. roots are looking amazing. mix is 75% composana and 25% lightmix. we also mixed more myko's in the soil around the old rootball about 1/3 up and topped off with soil. watered about 1.5l per 5l pot, ph'd water about 6.4 We are now gone over the weekend, and raised the lamps to about 40cm. monday new picures. they were looking real good the next morning after transplant and kept growing. We will see if everything is fine on monday when we get back. hopefully lots of new healthy growth.. we had to add about 5ml ph- (phosphoric acid 10%) to 10l tap water to get ph from 7.8 to about 6.4. no fert was added. only canna magnesium. hopefully the cheapo ph meter worked. next week topping will be happening between Day 18 and 21

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Geruch etwas weniger als erwartet trdm sehr sehr sehr geile terps bin gespannt wenn’s fertig gecured ist wie es dann schmeckt

Semana con sentimientos encontrados!😂😢 Contento por que voy a poder probar por fin la Ansiada Gorilla Snow ultra CBD y La Katana de Élite Seeds, el que es para mi el mejor banco por su gran trabajo con sus genéticas, por otra parte triste por que hasta que no pase el veranito no volveremos a cultivar por el tema de la calor! Esta semana empiezo a quitar hojas poco a poco, esta es la segunda semana que están con la limpieza de raíz así que para final de semana las cortaré, estoy empezando a ver que algunas tienen un poco de araña roja espero que no se extienda mucho y no me fastidie! Las Gorilla Snow Ultra CBD parece una variedad exquesita, y en unas condiciones climatológicas mas adecuadas debe de ser una pasada en cuanto a su producción de resina, no os quiero contar La Katana...😵 menuda manta de resina tiene encima es una barbaridad!!

Poor little baby, still trying to recover from being a kitty toy. It's just barely hanging on with some very tiny, what looks like new growth leaves. Idk it'll be able to absorb enough light with those to say alive. I'm hoping so but it is greatly stunted in comparison with an the others if the same age.

Nur noch spülen

Week 3 ( 28 Jan 2020 - 04 Feb 2020 ) 29 Jan 2020, day 15 It's third week for my small grow room :) I'd say everything is fine, like 7/10 fine ;) One plant shows signs of a problem - leaves are twisting. Beside that there is nothing else to be worried about. I also increased the light distance from the plants and reduced nuts a little. In the same time I switched the light mode to full spectrum. Hope it will do. Done some LST as well, bended plants away from the light, hoping that it will affect their final height. Now I'm running three humidifiers :D :D two controlled by higrostat, one on a timer. Keeping optimal Rh is a challenge here. 3 Feb 2020, day 20 Third week is comming to the end. Now it became noticable how much faster than other strains White Widow is :) It outrunned other plant : +speed autos, Cream Caramel and Old Mandarine with about twice their height ! :) It now is a challange to keep all the plants at the same distance from the light like the others. I will try to bend White Widow down a little next week :) Beside that, everything seem to be perfect. Wish me luck! Will keep ya posted :) Wish me luck and may the luck be with you !