At day 84 from seed, 38 days since the switch to 12-12, she is a little closer to my light than I want. She looks happy to me though so I hope I get away with it. She is just entering that part of her life cycle where she is developing and putting on weight. Not much to do much wait and see if she ends up too close to my light and if she'll need support later in flower.

Muy buenas familia hoy terminamos la 3° semana y damos comiendo a la 4° y bueno como vemos ya están empezando a engordar mis niñas 😁😁estos últimos días e visto en una planta como si se estuviese pasado de alimento y este riego sólo le puse el agua en un 6 pH y veré como va avanzando aún que siempre pongo el mínimo de la tabla pero no se a lo mejor estoy equivocado y más bien le falta en ves de sobrarle les iré contando pero están muy bonitas como siempre familia si tenéis algún Consejo alguna crítica bienvenida es un abrazo familia y buenos humos paz

Okay so thats probably the last week, though i still dont see any amber trichomes. Im scared of budrot and i cant see any huge progress.. one is behind and is getting one more week. I harvested one already at day 55 due to budrod.. Im happy to see any last advices! DAY 58 - DUE TO SOME SPIDER AND MORE BUUDROT IM GONNA HARVEST THEM ALL EXCEPT ONE NOW FUCK THIS IM MAD i think i need some bigger fans next time

Ok so this week I did a defoliation and a tigh down too the netting , I really was not planning on doing such a big defoliation but the leafs became thick and dense and there was almost no light penitration down too the lower branches of the plant , so she is opened right up now and the humidity and temperature has dropped loads and the air is moving alot better around the leaves and branches , I will not take anything more off her now , I have also added Cal mag too the nutrients for this week only , she is well into pre flower now but the stretch has not yet started so I figured it's no or never too defoliate and tigh them down , this grill really has grown right out this week and is unrecognisable from the plant just a few days ago , I am very happy with them so far and being new too all this it's all very exciting , Thanks for looking :)

After what felt like a month of waiting for my seeds to arrive- I got them and got to work. I’m Only doing two plants at a time to start. Both toof decay seeds popped little tails in 24 hours using toilet paper and dechlorinated tap water and a DVD case of mothman prophecies- blockbuster copy. I planted one directly into my fox farms happy frog soil- now shall be called- the runt.The other I planted in a germ pellet and into ocean forest. My cat got into my closet somehow and destroyed the cloth pot with ocean forest in it. Destroyed. Luckily my little lady survived and I put her in a root rocket? Root riot? Anyway- that’s why she is in The corner of this 5 gallon pot with my runt. I am waiting for them both to get bigger before I move either one of them. My cat is fine btw- gave her a bath as payback- muhahahah. Anyway. As I type this it is day 5? I don’t know- I can’t tell time at the moment. It’s def I’m their first week. How do they look?

Der Grow: Die Sämlinge haben sich gut entwickelt und auch der Cover Crop hat angefangen zu wachsen. Das Blumat System hält die Erde bei etwa 100 mbar. Die LED wurde am Anfang der Woche so eingestellt, dass ca. 200 PPFD, bei den Pflanzen ankommen. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit habe ich leicht gesenkt. Am letzten Tag der Woche, war es Zeit zum umtopfen. Wie immer habe ich mir die Pflanze mit dem schönsten wuchs rausgesucht und diese umgetopft. Die anderen beiden, bleiben noch ein paar Tage stehen, als Back Up, falls etwas schief geht. Die selektierte Pflanze hatte den Anzuchttopf schön durchwurzelt. Die Wurzeln habe ich vor dem einpflanzen noch einmal mit Mykorrhiza geimpft. Nachdem einpflanzen wurde leicht angegossen und das Scrog Netz entfernt. Die LED habe ich so eingestellt das ca. 350 PPFD bei der Pflanze ankommen. Die Parameter in Woche 2: Controller Einstellung Tag: Advanced AI Luftfeuchtigkeit 70% - 80% Controller Einstellung Nacht: Advanced AI Luftfeuchtigkeit 65% - 75% Durchschnittliche Tagestemperatur: 26,1 Grad Durchschnittliche Nachttemperatur: 23,1 Grad Durchschnittliche Luftfeuchtigkeit Tag: 75,3% Durchschnittliche Luftfeuchtigkeit Tag: 70,5% Durchschnittlicher VPD Tag: 0,6 Durchschnittlicher VPD Nacht: 0,7 LED Leistung: 10% = 70 Watt Beleuchtungsdauer: 18 Stunden Umluft: Stufe 1 oszillierend

Growace.com aircube only discount code NINJABUDS ELUFAH / Amazon discount NINJABUDS The plants are very close to being large enough to start useing the watering system to water them Slurricaine is looking good I like the leaves so far. The only plant I grew from Zamnesia was pretty good so I have high hopes

It’s been a rainy week but these girls are just a project I’m not stressing. The shorter females were replaced from males so it’s girls only from here on.

The girls are smelling really nice…turned out a seed project but I sure would get some fire smoke. I’ve been feeding her 3 gallons of water daily preparing her for some charcoal ash…

Started off with some training 😍 Shes responding very very well! Was about to top her but I changed my mind so ill see how big she will grow Hoping for a bushy plant 😍

Ladies are getting more colourful each day. The terps are really fvcking crazy loud.

Home Interior 90x90// Do Si Dos 33 - Barneys Farm + Sour Diesel + Roadawg //Semana 8 // FLORACIÓN - Grotek Nutrients. - Lumatek LEC 315w+ 💎 .

now we wait for the enlargement of buds ... the plant has remained low and compact ...... the branches and the trunk are very resistant and hard, unfortunately it has yielded a thread that held it and the plant has grown a bit ' strange, but the scent is not at all .... I think the plant will give me definitely less than what I'm used to (over 50 gr)

Day 1: I got two of these Sweet Gelato seeds free from @Zamnesia. I’m only planting one at the moment . I’m really excited about growing it. I’ve really loved any Gelato I have tasted. I have my substrate prepared and my veg space is ready to go. I have put the seed in Ph’d water for 24hrs first and I will add to the soil tomorrow night. I’ll wet the soil down tomorrow morning with Ph’d water and I’ll put it the veg space with the lights on to warm up the soil before adding the seed. Day 2: Seed has been moved into the substrate and pot is now in Veg Space under 40watt CFL bulbs but once the seed germinates I will switch on the 200watt CFL. This is my least favourite part of growing, the wait for the seedlings 🌱 to break through the soil. I’ve planted the seed to one side of the pot as I find this makes LST easier. The plant will be spending it’s first 2 to 3 weeks in this veg space while I wait for my Purple Punch to finish in my main grow space. 72hrs Later: Houston we have lift off 🚀 The seed first started to peed through the soil after only 48hrs. That’s the fasted I’ve ever seen, hopefully it’s a sign of things to come. Leaves still haven’t opened but it’s fully above ground now.

Week 5 for our Fast Version B from super sativa seeds club. She has a very nice pine tree shape! Looking amazing at the moment, cant wait to flower the lady and compare with version A. This week we gave some orgatrex and applied some more top dressing with worm Castings

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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

She has smaller flowers this time but more dense, purple fade at the end that indicates shes very blueberry