So far nothing special, everything seems to be fine. She had some sunny days at the beginning, but weather got cloudy and relatively cold – this has slowed her growth for sure. But want her to adapt well to her conditions, so only put her inside in really cold nights. She got her endpoint directly on day 3, it's a 9L airpot. root was already at the bottom of the small starting pot. so maybe this stressed and slowed her too. Let's see how she will grow the next days. Video for this week will follow. Filming quality of my phone is not as good as would have liked it. But working on it.

27/05 - Day 1 of Veg(1L of Nutrients dissolved in water poured into the tray) 1/06 - Day 6 added toothpick to help give support 2/06 - Day 7 checked on their root development, so I can transplant (Tomorrow we transplant)

Very good. Decresing the humidity to 45 %

we have the first week of flowering behind us. the plant looks healthy, but is growing very slowly. unfortunately the german summer is a long time coming. we sometimes only have 8 degrees at night and not much sunshine.

La primer semana se flora vinene muy bien , fertilizamos unas semanas antes con fertis de pre flora , a los 15 días vamos a hacer el último riego foliar con ferstis y un riego con guano de murciélago con melaza para mejores resultados

Well after different bits of advice last week I decided to take fast buds advice and keep feeding, she's on day 70 now all her leaves are fading, I'm guessing this is just because she is coming to the end of her cycle,.. still not sure when to start flushing as fast reckoned there was 3-4 weeks left that was 7 days ago so now still 2-3,.. I reckon 1 more week of food but just what I've put on the nutrient list nomore and then start a flush, just to say I appreciate all and any advice given to me I just followed fastbuds advice as I thought probably safest option. Thanks everyone. Roll on next week 👌

17.05. I don't have anything special to say, of course the weather is terrible... it's 6-7 at night, 15-16 during the day, so they're inside... the temperature inside is 20-21 during the day, at night from 15 to 17 when it's this cold... the plants were exactly 3 weeks old yesterday, today they entered the fourth week and most likely they will wait inside for the fifth week as well because the weather is terrible and there is no point in transplanting yet. Stay High!

She was topped 1 time and LST From week 3 till week 10 then Stopped LST when the limbs would stay on there own

la semana empieza con la poda de hojas abanico. y termina con doblado de ramas. La nº1 que sacó tres ramas por nudo va por libre, le cuesta más crecer y tengo que ir podando y doblando a medida que va creciendo. La nº2 y la nº3 ambas terminan la semana listas para despegar.

This Green Crack was my 3rd round of started seeds in my perpetual garden of auto's. I decided to get a little experimental and try topping and bending this girl at the beginning of the flowering stretch (about a week ago). So far she has not missed a beat, she just keeps stretching and growing. Starting to see the bud sites develop. One branch did take a little damage from the bending, but I put some blue painters tape on it and expect a full recovery. Growing in organic composted 'super soil'. Have not added any additional nutrients yet. Looks great to me so far. Setup: 24x48x72 grow tent 1 Viparspectra V300 300w LED fixture 1 Viparspectra R300 300w LED fixture 1 CFL 100w (26w actual) 4” exhaust fan w/carbon filter 190cfm 6” clip on fan Electric oil filled radiator behind air intake

Start of week 6 day 36 of flowering. So considering this is a summer grow with high temps most of the time, these girls are still blooming nicely. LIT farms are still continuing to impress as the weeks go by. Very frosty and still 3 weeks to go. Pk stopped and buddy back in the schedule for this week. Finale next week only and then 1 final week of just water.

Another amazing week. Everything coming along nicely. This week was a strip of all growth underneath the ScroG, as you can see in the video i aimed to keep all growth above the ScroG. We dont want the plants to waste energy in those fluffy bottom nugz xD. Ive noticed a bit of stretch from the few branches at the back, I think I will top them to keep them level to the rest. Please leave a like and a comment with your thoughts. Peace The Pot Factory

Week 10, Week 10 has been fun. The buds are becoming denser and starting to almost look like a finished product. I am planning on harvesting the plant the first week of next month, so three weeks or so and counting! I am adjusting the tie downs twice a week trying to get the buds as much sunlight as possible. I am watering every 3 days with 6.0 ph water. I have been putting a teaspoon of FloraNova in the water with a tablespoon of molasses mixed in but it appears she received a little nutrient burn. I'm not to worried about it because I wanted to make sure the flower sites received enough nutrients to make some dense dank buds. It isn't a huge burn but a little. As a result I started mixing only half a teaspoon of FloraNova in the water to make sure any future burn doesn't happen. I am excited about the plant, she is starting to look like a thiccy ha I am probably going to starting flushing in three weeks. Let me know if you have any questions/concerns/comments. Happy growing Growmies 🙌

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Die dritte Blütewoche hat am letzten Samstag begonnen. Schaut aus als hätten sie das Lollipopping ganz gut überstanden. Der Geruch wird langsam intensiver, aber sehr angenehm. Fotos werden Ende der Woche geupdatet.

È venuto un bel casino, perché tra la prima e la seconda settimana di fioritura sono stato via 5 giorni, e al ritorno mi sono trovato 3 piante che avevano preso il sopravvento sulle altre e allora ho potuto solo piegare perché già non ci stavano più. Le piante hanno 25 giorni di vegetativa e 36 di fioritura

These 8 plants had a vegetative period of 3 months and grown organically, these ladies had a lot of training and came out beautifully except 1 plant which was both over and under watered. I don't seem to understand why these plants are not smelly at all literally there is no smell, not while in vegetative stage and nor in flowering, don't know is this a bad or good thing while trichomes are clearly visible at day 7 of flowering.

Purple one automatically makes me happy! Looks fine, smell like pine😀 We are near the holidays my friends! But all my auto flowers plants starting to yellowing from bottom, looks like insufficient of nutrients. I'll try to fix it

Start of the journey for the Auto Gelato I am testing for Fast Buds Genetics 💪 .. I messed up and had my light timer turned off, so I ran 24 hours for the first week instead of 20-4, which I believe to be the culprit for the leggy seedling. That, or my light is not sufficient. It says it's 150 W on here, but I can assure you it is only 100 W out of the wall. I had the brightness down originally but brought it up to 85-90% to see if I can stop the stretch.