So far I've had two plants pop out from the 8 seeds I threw in the soil (2-30 gallon pots). A ninth seed was germinated later in the season. These are seeds I obtained from the Grease Monkey OG clone I grew last year. I don't mind getting a few seeds from the bees pollinating my plants. I can't say how good that strain is; I recommend it to everyone. I'm happy to have some cross-pollinated offspring. The soil is mostly FFOF, Happy Frog, Roots Organics, some worm castings, worms and whatever has been living in the soil. I recycle my soil and just add more stuff when necessary. I'll try and keep updates this season.

Starting to stack up

Hi, topman! Its 4 day of bloom, and 10-11 day from 12/12 change. Today we are add 25-30% to all of nutrients, manual 1-2-1-2. In this week we are going to loading SCROG, and reload drip system! See you to next time, and thank you for your times.

Everything was fine. So I started to bath each pot by using a fermentation nutrient by using beneficial bacteria, mycobacteria, some Orgatrex, different mycorrhiza's as 36 hours fermented potions with 2 liters/pot. Oh I forget to tell You, as You can see in the Video the water drops 💦 on the surfaces of their leafs @ day 23 I used Boom Boom Spray too for preparing the next stage of powerful photosynthesis by raising up my SanLights @ 300 µmol/m² s. Second video was @ day 26. I raised up a little natural CO2 from 450 ppm to 550 ppm. So they were prepared for more powerful photosynthesis coming up the next days… Critical Orange Punch and Amnesia Zkittlez showed some typical nutritional sensitivities some phenotypes of Sativa dominated strains can show @ the way to powering up the system. Light tops on the head of the leaf area. But again: “Don’t panic, it’s organic.” Also @ day 26 I started with my preferred technique of LST by mainly just pull down a little, the biggest fan leafs, so the little Life-hungry drives were able to came through and got enough homogeneous ppfd for uniform growth rate too.

¡Comienza una nueva semana de floración y hoy ha sido día de riego con mi producto favorito! 💧💚 Aunque puede que haya sido un poco entusiasta con la dosis (¡pero quién puede resistirse a más de lo bueno!), mis Moby Dick de @kannabiaglobal están en pleno auge. Pero hoy, he notado que necesitaban un extra de potasio/fósforo. MissyLK de AScenza es mi arma secreta en este viaje. Con una composición cuidadosamente diseñada, este fertilizante ofrece una mezcla perfecta para la fase de floración. Su fórmula única contiene un 10% de nitrógeno, 20% de fósforo, 30% de potasio, y una combinación de otros microelementos vitales, diseñados para estimular el crecimiento de cogollos densos, resinosos y llenos de sabor. Además, su contenido de aminoácidos libres, extracto húmico total, ácidos húmicos y ácidos fúlvicos promueven una salud óptima de las plantas y una absorción eficiente de nutrientes. Con cada riego, estamos un paso más cerca de una cosecha que promete ser legendaria. ¡El viaje continúa y cada día es una nueva aventura! 💪🌿

Everything was fine. So I started to bath each pot by using a fermentation nutrient by using beneficial bacteria, mycobacteria, some Orgatrex, different mycorrhiza's as 36 hours fermented potions with 2 liters/pot. Oh I forget to tell You, as You can see in the Video the water drops 💦 on the surfaces of their leafs @ day 23 I used Boom Boom Spray too for preparing the next stage of powerful photosynthesis by raising up my SanLights @ 300 µmol/m² s. Second video was @ day 26. I raised up a little natural CO2 from 450 ppm to 550 ppm. So they were prepared for more powerful photosynthesis coming up the next days… Critical Orange Punch and Amnesia Zkittlez showed some typical nutritional sensitivities some phenotypes of Sativa dominated strains can show @ the way to powering up the system. Light tops on the head of the leaf area. But again: “Don’t panic, it’s organic.” Also @ day 26 I started with my preferred technique of LST by mainly just pull down a little, the biggest fan leafs, so the little Life-hungry drives were able to came through and got enough homogeneous ppfd for uniform growth rate too.

cosechada en dos fases.

Right before harvest I took some more videos and photos of the ladies.

Ciao a tutti, sembrerebbe crescere veramente bene!!! Le cime iniziano a crescere sempre di più. E' veramente una pianta meravigliosa, facile da coltivare e per il momento non sembra presentare alcun problema. Sembra apprezzare il calore e la luce del sole. Buona coltivazione a tutti👊👊👊 Hi everyone, it seems to be growing really well!!! The buds start to grow more and more. It is truly a wonderful plant, easy to grow and for the moment it does not seem to present any problems. It seems to appreciate the warmth and light of the sun. Happy cultivation everyone👊👊👊

Ciao a tutti, sembrerebbe crescere veramente bene!!! Le cime iniziano a crescere sempre di più. E' veramente una pianta meravigliosa, facile da coltivare e per il momento non sembra presentare alcun problema. Sembra apprezzare il calore e la luce del sole. Buona coltivazione a tutti👊👊👊 Hi everyone, it seems to be growing really well!!! The buds start to grow more and more. It is truly a wonderful plant, easy to grow and for the moment it does not seem to present any problems. It seems to appreciate the warmth and light of the sun. Happy cultivation everyone👊👊👊

Ciao a tutti, sembrerebbe crescere veramente bene!!! Le cime iniziano a crescere sempre di più. E' veramente una pianta meravigliosa, facile da coltivare e per il momento non sembra presentare alcun problema. Sembra apprezzare il calore e la luce del sole. Buona coltivazione a tutti👊👊👊 Hi everyone, it seems to be growing really well!!! The buds start to grow more and more. It is truly a wonderful plant, easy to grow and for the moment it does not seem to present any problems. It seems to appreciate the warmth and light of the sun. Happy cultivation everyone👊👊👊

Hi everyone, I feed this little beast twice a day 1/2 gallon (total 1 gallon) per day with the shown above nutrients every time. - Always on a 18/6 Daylight schedule - Gives me a runout of .80/L - Use Coco Coir an perlite only I transplanted here directly into final container (5 gallon fabric pots). Final week before harvest , i am very excited 😎 Have i nice week to all growers. Feel free to comment, i can use all the help.👍

Hi everyone, I feed this little beast twice a day 1/2 gallon (total 1 gallon) per day with the shown above nutrients every time. - Always on a 18/6 Daylight schedule - Gives me a runout of .80/L - Use Coco Coir an perlite only I transplanted here directly into final container (5 gallon fabric pots). Final week before harvest , i am very excited 😎 Have i nice week to all growers. Feel free to comment, i can use all the help.👍

Looking frosty

The featured time-lapse is from week 0 to week 5. The camera will be fixed; I couldn't hang it up earlier. Some light LST was required for overall light penetration. Final week of vegetative state before the stretch and pre-flower!

Week_1 There's nothing great to report about the first week. I had 2 fans running at the beginning, but after 3 days I turned one fan off because it was stressing the right plant a bit too much (leaves drooping). After turning off the fan, the leaves turned back towards the light. Otherwise, I watered as before. I added 1 liter of reverse osmosis water, 2 ml of CalMag and watered each pot with 0.5l divided into 2 intervals. In order to increase the humidity in the tent, I started using the humidifier from day 4. During the day the humidity is 55% and at night it is 68%.

Questa settimana flush!! ..abbiamo fatto girare l'impianto con solo acqua osmotica a ph 6.2, siamo giunti al termine di questo ciclo, tra qualche giorno raccogliamo e attendiamo la fase di seccatura delle cime per gustare finalmente il prodotto e stabilire la qualità il risultato finale!

Cool things off and lower humidity. Entire canopy tilted towards the UV? I would too, I thought that was a blues job. Not that this growth has been focused on UV dosage but again the subtle differences between the side that received UV. Hard to gauge I'd say 15%-20% bigger, fuller cola, thicker trichs too, even small tinges of purple starting to show up on the buds. Initially, I tried to keep the one or two stems that collapsed from weight up using yoyo drawstrings but before long they all started to fall over. It's not even such a bad thing, they all keep each other propped up enough to remain in the high-intensity zone. Like flipping a burger when one side is done, it topples from weight, opening up a new patch to be colonized by floral reproductive organs (buds) survival of the species demands it. Added more blue to the spectrum, will start to reduce daylight hours and temps over the coming weeks. Probably should have used a net but I detest getting it off for the dry, a toppled cola is not so bad. Very nice first-world problem to have if you ask me, blessed. No magnesium, no chlorophyll. Calcium is a vital nutrient, performing a large number of vital roles in plant biology. It’s a crucial component in plant cell walls and helps transport other minerals from one side of cell membranes to the other. It’s also involved in some enzyme functions. It’s what’s known as an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. Without enough calcium, those membranes become weak. The cell walls can’t control their permeability, resulting in the leeching of vital nutrients and an eventual waterlogging of affected cells. Mostly we see it as yellowing leaves, especially in newer growth, and fruit that becomes soggy and sodden from too much moisture. Magnesium Magnesium is just as important. It’s a key component in the construction of chlorophyll, arguably the most important of all chemicals inside a plant. Chlorophyll is the powerhouse of the plant. It’s responsible for turning oxygen and water into sugar, fueling all the plant's growth. Without it, there’s no chance of vigorous growth at all Unlike calcium, magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Chlorosis is the defining trait of magnesium deficiencies. Leaves turn yellow, from the oldest to the youngest. It makes sense – after all, no magnesium, no chlorophyll. Many Calmag solutions include iron, usually as a chelate. This is because many of the conditions that lead to soils poor in calcium and magnesium can also lead to low levels of iron, so it pays to cover all bases. Iron deficiencies also cause the same sort of chlorosis as magnesium deficiencies, so it sometimes pays to apply both at once. (Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and the molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate (multiple bonded) ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. They are usually organic compounds, but this is not a necessity.) Others will include nitrogen, too, presumably because plants need a fairly consistent supply of the stuff, and a deficient plant is likely to spring to life, hungry and ready to grow, once the deficiency is corrected. This is not the case for all brands, so it pays to check – there are plenty of cases where a low or nitrogen fertilizer is preferred. Calcium and magnesium work in concert within the plant, and so for many years it was assumed you had to ensure a good ratio of calcium to magnesium in order to get good growth from your plants. We now know that it’s both simpler and more complicated than that. The ratio of calcium to magnesium in the soil isn’t important, provided there’s enough of both for whatever is growing. However too much calcium can cause a drop in available magnesium. The two get along and readily bind to each other. You may well wind up with a magnesium deficiency if you go too hard with a purely calcium-based amendment. It’s why Cal-mag fertilizers are so useful – they prevent magnesium depletion while addressing both deficiencies at once. Cal-mag is best used regularly. As calcium is non-mobile, it needs to be present in the soil for use all through the growing season. As flowers and fruit develop it’s especially crucial to keep everything well-fed and clicking along. This is especially true if the weather has been erratic – plants draw calcium from the soil in water, so if the weather has alternated from very wet to very dry, it interrupts that uptake. I’d suggest you apply Calmag as a supplement for heavy feeders through the growing season, especially if the weather has been sketchy. Depending on your location, this could be anywhere from early spring through to late fall. Be mindful that plants with low fertilizer requirements won’t benefit from Cal-mag at all, and in fact, can be harmed by too much of it in the soil. You can also use Calmag to treat either magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies as they appear. Both show up as chlorosis, with magnesium depleting the green from old leaves and calcium from the young Coco substrates have a few unique chemical properties that can cause problems if not treated. Chief among these is the high amount of potassium naturally found in coco. This potassium tends to swap places with calcium in nutrient solutions, resulting in too much potassium and not enough calcium in your system. Fortunately, treating with Calmag is a good way to remediate this. The magnesium has its own part to play in the complex chemistry happening at the root level, but together they can work to create a supportive growing environment for your plants. How you apply the Calmag will determine how effective it is, as well as what you’re hoping to achieve. As a preventative measure, you may never see the Calmag do its work. That’s the point – you are preventing the deficiencies from developing. If applied judiciously, it’s an invisible barrier, protecting you from crop failure and poor growth. But if used to treat a diagnosed deficiency, the impact will be felt fastest with foliar application. Magnesium deficiencies will correct quite quickly. While already damaged leaves won’t revive, the grim march of yellow will stop almost immediately. Calcium deficiency is slower to spot, as it’s tied to the development of new tissue, but once you’ve corrected the problem the next wave of leaves or blossoms should be in good health. Soil application takes longer for the plant to process, but it tends to be more enduring. It can take a few days for the minerals to work their way through a large plant, but once they do it’s a long-lasting result. You can always have too much of a good thing, and Cal-Mag is no different. At best, it’s possible to use Cal-mag to treat disorders caused by totally unrelated deficiencies, or even bacteria or fungus. While in these cases the Cal-mag itself isn’t going to cause too many problems, they certainly aren’t going to fix your problem. More critically, both calcium and magnesium can spell trouble in too high concentrations. Too much calcium in the soil can result in the uptake of too much of other minerals and not enough of others, a tricky thing to detect. Magnesium sickness is easier to spot, leaving browning on the tips of new growth.

Cool things off and lower humidity. Entire canopy tilted towards the UV? I would too, I thought that was a blues job. Not that this growth has been focused on UV dosage but again the subtle differences between the side that received UV. Hard to gauge I'd say 15%-20% bigger, fuller cola, thicker trichs too, even small tinges of purple starting to show up on the buds. Initially, I tried to keep the one or two stems that collapsed from weight up using yoyo drawstrings but before long they all started to fall over. It's not even such a bad thing, they all keep each other propped up enough to remain in the high-intensity zone. Like flipping a burger when one side is done, it topples from weight, opening up a new patch to be colonized by floral reproductive organs (buds) survival of the species demands it. Added more blue to the spectrum, will start to reduce daylight hours and temps over the coming weeks. Probably should have used a net but I detest getting it off for the dry, a toppled cola is not so bad. Very nice first-world problem to have if you ask me, blessed. No magnesium, no chlorophyll. Calcium is a vital nutrient, performing a large number of vital roles in plant biology. It’s a crucial component in plant cell walls and helps transport other minerals from one side of cell membranes to the other. It’s also involved in some enzyme functions. It’s what’s known as an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. Without enough calcium, those membranes become weak. The cell walls can’t control their permeability, resulting in the leeching of vital nutrients and an eventual waterlogging of affected cells. Mostly we see it as yellowing leaves, especially in newer growth, and fruit that becomes soggy and sodden from too much moisture. Magnesium Magnesium is just as important. It’s a key component in the construction of chlorophyll, arguably the most important of all chemicals inside a plant. Chlorophyll is the powerhouse of the plant. It’s responsible for turning oxygen and water into sugar, fueling all the plant's growth. Without it, there’s no chance of vigorous growth at all Unlike calcium, magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Chlorosis is the defining trait of magnesium deficiencies. Leaves turn yellow, from the oldest to the youngest. It makes sense – after all, no magnesium, no chlorophyll. Many Calmag solutions include iron, usually as a chelate. This is because many of the conditions that lead to soils poor in calcium and magnesium can also lead to low levels of iron, so it pays to cover all bases. Iron deficiencies also cause the same sort of chlorosis as magnesium deficiencies, so it sometimes pays to apply both at once. (Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and the molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate (multiple bonded) ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. They are usually organic compounds, but this is not a necessity.) Others will include nitrogen, too, presumably because plants need a fairly consistent supply of the stuff, and a deficient plant is likely to spring to life, hungry and ready to grow, once the deficiency is corrected. This is not the case for all brands, so it pays to check – there are plenty of cases where a low or nitrogen fertilizer is preferred. Calcium and magnesium work in concert within the plant, and so for many years it was assumed you had to ensure a good ratio of calcium to magnesium in order to get good growth from your plants. We now know that it’s both simpler and more complicated than that. The ratio of calcium to magnesium in the soil isn’t important, provided there’s enough of both for whatever is growing. However too much calcium can cause a drop in available magnesium. The two get along and readily bind to each other. You may well wind up with a magnesium deficiency if you go too hard with a purely calcium-based amendment. It’s why Cal-mag fertilizers are so useful – they prevent magnesium depletion while addressing both deficiencies at once. Cal-mag is best used regularly. As calcium is non-mobile, it needs to be present in the soil for use all through the growing season. As flowers and fruit develop it’s especially crucial to keep everything well-fed and clicking along. This is especially true if the weather has been erratic – plants draw calcium from the soil in water, so if the weather has alternated from very wet to very dry, it interrupts that uptake. I’d suggest you apply Calmag as a supplement for heavy feeders through the growing season, especially if the weather has been sketchy. Depending on your location, this could be anywhere from early spring through to late fall. Be mindful that plants with low fertilizer requirements won’t benefit from Cal-mag at all, and in fact, can be harmed by too much of it in the soil. You can also use Calmag to treat either magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies as they appear. Both show up as chlorosis, with magnesium depleting the green from old leaves and calcium from the young Coco substrates have a few unique chemical properties that can cause problems if not treated. Chief among these is the high amount of potassium naturally found in coco. This potassium tends to swap places with calcium in nutrient solutions, resulting in too much potassium and not enough calcium in your system. Fortunately, treating with Calmag is a good way to remediate this. The magnesium has its own part to play in the complex chemistry happening at the root level, but together they can work to create a supportive growing environment for your plants. How you apply the Calmag will determine how effective it is, as well as what you’re hoping to achieve. As a preventative measure, you may never see the Calmag do its work. That’s the point – you are preventing the deficiencies from developing. If applied judiciously, it’s an invisible barrier, protecting you from crop failure and poor growth. But if used to treat a diagnosed deficiency, the impact will be felt fastest with foliar application. Magnesium deficiencies will correct quite quickly. While already damaged leaves won’t revive, the grim march of yellow will stop almost immediately. Calcium deficiency is slower to spot, as it’s tied to the development of new tissue, but once you’ve corrected the problem the next wave of leaves or blossoms should be in good health. Soil application takes longer for the plant to process, but it tends to be more enduring. It can take a few days for the minerals to work their way through a large plant, but once they do it’s a long-lasting result. You can always have too much of a good thing, and Cal-Mag is no different. At best, it’s possible to use Cal-mag to treat disorders caused by totally unrelated deficiencies, or even bacteria or fungus. While in these cases the Cal-mag itself isn’t going to cause too many problems, they certainly aren’t going to fix your problem. More critically, both calcium and magnesium can spell trouble in too high concentrations. Too much calcium in the soil can result in the uptake of too much of other minerals and not enough of others, a tricky thing to detect. Magnesium sickness is easier to spot, leaving browning on the tips of new growth.

First day under led lights after receiving the fresh cuttings. All of them are healthy but unfortunately is the night temperature at the moment a bit to low. All lights are dimmed; the sunlight leds on the lowest setting and the Cree cobs around 20%. Output watts for all leds is at the moment 280W. PAR readings coming up in the next days 💡 Now the PAR readings: 3x3 measurements at plant tip. Front row to the back. Measurements in mmol/m2s with the quantumsensor from apogee. 400,570,400,550,620,610,410,470,410. Around 500 in average.