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Hey yall! Another week down. A lot has happened. To start, we up-potted from the red solos into my living soil blend that I have been working on for almost a year. It's so full on living creatures and beneficials. I used to have fungus gnats a lot when working with living soil, it's almost impossible to avoid. .. Then enters beneficials; we have black soldier Flys, persimillis predatory mites, definitely earth worms, most likely a mix of night crawlers. No more fungus gnats, I highly recommend using beneficial nematodes, cucumeris and persimillis predatory mites are excellent (swirski predatory mites are expensive). Just look at the Soil Food Web and identify what pest you have, then purchase their predators from a trusted insectary. Anyways I added another 200watt LED and spread out the plants in a 2' X 4' tent. It's extremely dry in my location and having the heat on makes the air even drier. So getting my VPD stable has been an immense challenge. Right now Also we need to be able to add VPD or at least GD needs a built in calculator to help folks with VPD, Vapor Pressure Deficite. As of right now I am sitting at 0.85 VPD, so pretty good for today. I have 4 humidifiers and have had to hang moistened towels on the doors of the room I am growing in. It literally has been a huge challenge to keep the humidity high enough for my VPD to be in range for the young plants I have now. Good thing is my current humidity without running any humidifiers is perfect for the flowering stage, so I can't wait to move this along. As for topping and training; like I said I really want to move these ladies into flowering sooner than later. I have several reasons to do limited training so I can limit my veg time, also getting this crop done as fast as possible is best for my set up. Until I can get a larger house 🏠 😩 because we got a baby on the way 👶 so need to make space. I have made compost tea twice this past week, wetting the soil and also spraying the leaves. My sprayer broke so I ended up pouring the tea on the plants gently, I got worm castings on the leaves lol. Gently rubbing that off once they dried. Also I applied the tea at night. My tea recipe: Reverse Osmosis water, 2 to 4 gallons I bubble that with added minerals for a day Add 2-3 cups of Activated worm castings (To activate the castings I added about 3 gallons of high quality castings with what I consider to be nutrient amendments, SO I add = kelp meal, neem cake, organic coconut flour, organic corn meal, organic wheat flour, and organic cold milled flax seeds and let that sit for a week then add about 2 to 3 cups of that mix to the tea) I also add biology from about a cup of 2 different soil mixes I have around my compost bin, just trying to get a more diverse biology by adding those two different soil sources. And mind you the grow beds I took the soil from has been organic for many years and has a large amount of beneficials and tons of excellent biology. Other than that I bubble that for 12 to 24 hours, with as much air as I can get. I use air stones but you really need to clean them off once you are done brewing. I also have an Air Lift with a large air pump that really works great, K.I.S. Organics sells one that works great or you can build one easily with with PVC pipe and a few adapters from any Home Depot or Lowes. Also I do add DynoMyco to my roots when up-potting. They are an amazing brand that has backed up research, I think they have more propagules per gram of two strains they identified to work great with cannabis. Now having said that, each individual phenotype out of each individual and specific strain/cultivar is going to have different bacteria/fungal strains that it prefers and by growing the same strain, hopefully the same exact cut, and grow 3 to 4 cycles before you truly have the mycelium networks built and fully functional. What I am saying is stop throwing out "used" soil and go over 7 gallons, bigger the better for biodiversity. Stop buying "new" soil, amend your previous beds and pots. You will see a huge difference. Hopefully I can show you all of this with my Grow. Anyways please feel free to ask away any questions! This grow is about saving money 💰 🤑 and growing the best clean medicine as possible.
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Due to the high number of tops that naturally produced themselves on the pop,,I had to start some LST,,and in the process,,accidentally knocked the top off it,,😁😂😂🙏 Thankfully the main stem plugged itself,,and the branches that have been trained,,,look promising,,,,🙏🙏💚🇦🇺
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Such Bittersweet Joy Added this week as ‘Flowering’ although technically should be harvested as I but I haven’t had a chance to weigh or anything. I will do that next week once trimmed etc. So finally cut them down on D89, it was a beautiful day outside and it just felt right. Although when it came to the deed itself I felt sadder than I thought I would for my girls and the time we had together. All 6 (I’m growing another 3 different strains but not included on this diary) are now hanging to dry in the tent. Temp -18 C; Humidity-60% seems to be holding steady with no tinkering thankfully. After the 3 days they have all dried noticeably, perhaps 4/5 more before trimming / curing. I’ve had quite a close look at most of the harvest and as far as this noob can tell, there doesn’t seem to be any issues with mould / bud rot. Fingers remain crossed. I did have one very profound moment this week... It happened as I was surveying the harvest hanging up for the first time. I could feel my mindset change suddenly from the constant paranoia over their health and overcoming my impatience to “I actually have a crap load of weed”. It was beautiful beautiful moment... Thanks for reading. Have a great week 😊
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I have observed substantial growth in my babies, unfortunately, I will not be able to complete the intended 9 weeks of vegetation before transitioning to the flowering stage. This is due to an upcoming relocation to a more suitable location that offers ample space for strain cycling and the maintenance of mother plants for cloning purposes. I am eagerly anticipating the flowering phase, particularly for the Gelato 41 strain, which is already emitting a pleasant aroma.
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Explosive growth through the week, flipping to flower at the end of this week as plants have reached their 2foot marker. 2 foot tall is my limit for vegetive growth as the plants become unmanageable beyond that.
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Last week was crazy and beginning of blooming phase - 12/12 running Pictures are speaking for them self Nutrients based on advanced nutrients scheme
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@Sators
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Mixed biobizz all mix with extra eggshells, palm tree ash, extra worms casting and fish blood and bones.
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Day 91-92 BK. WHITE DEATH decended on her neighbors. Mold showed up on one bud in 2 of the other plants in this tent, not on this plant but in plants on either side. Got some great advice from a grower that goes by m0use and thanks so much I followed your advice and am seeing no mold or damage. I removed the top that had the mold growing 2 inches below the affected spot there was nothing under or behind it or anywhere else that I could see so I must have caught it very early. Next I mixed 2 cups of spring water with 2 ounces of 3% hydrogen peroxide, then misted the whole grow until I had used it all. This was done at lights out I placed a fan in front of the tent opened the tent on all sides and let the fan dry her off before the lights came back on. When the lights came back on there were a few places at the back of the tent where I used a paper towel to dab some wet leaves then blow dried with no heat to be sure that section was dry, the blow dry was only a minute or 2. It worked plants looking great checked trichomes and they are all there and clear so mission accomplished. Again thanks to m0use for the help and I plan to start bud washing between chop and dry on all grows, I tried to reply to all answers on my grow questions but once again the techno caveman doesn't know how to do something simple. Copy and pasteing this on the other diaries... Yep that I can do. Ok happiness flush continues and starting to see some cannibal fade. Day 97 BK. She is done. Finishing a week early probably due to never topping her and she never experienced transplant shock since she germinated in this pot..
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@Rap_a_cap
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Hey Growmies, some of you had asked to me if I prepare concentrates.......Yes I do! I don't like modern rosin extraction but instead very rarely I like to smoke some oil. The following is the recipe of cannabis oil made by ancient Mustapha's process. It needs: pharmaceutical grade ethyl alcohol (96.5% by vol.) or 95% for liquors Weed A jar with rounded bottom A lot of time This oil is 5 months aged, from 20 grams of weed I've obtained 3.5 grams of product. Trim previously dried weed (20 grams) and put into a 500 ml jar. Cover with 200 ml of alcohol and leave it partially covered with cap. Let alcohol to evaporate on itself and shake the mixture 2 times a day. The most of the solution will evaporate within 10-15 days. When the solution is evaporated by 2/3 it needs to be filtered between 90 and 120 microns. Now is the time to finish and decarboxylate the solution by heating the jar by bain-marie until the green cream sticks to glass. The jar needs to be refrigerated before you remove the cream with a spatula to transfer it into a smaller jar. Store it in a dark place and open twice in a week for few seconds. You'll obtain a petroleum green/dark amber cream (the green tone will turn into dark brown by time). If the job is well done the surface will crystallize and will shine like a mirror. This cream is insanely sticky. Smoke one drop a time. The collapse is around the corner. Tips: Best results, in terms of flavour/aroma, with single strain Let alcohol to evaporate very slowly, take away some macerated weed (after at least 48 hours infusion) and add new weed/hash pieces little by little. Act as if it were a piggy bank. The final product is a very strong shit, really narcotic.
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Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres Stretch 15centimètres Jour42 defolliation Jour45 arrosage avec de l'eau 1ml topmax Jour47 arrosage avec deux litres d'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz Quesque le stretch ? How to Control Stretching: Mastering Cannabis's Growth Push Stretching is a natural growth spurt for cannabis plants, but it is known to affect final yield. We dive into what causes stretching in the first place and how to prevent it from invading your growing space. There is little more irritating than an overloaded grow room. Stretching, the term used to describe the accelerated growth of cannabis stems, is part of the natural process of the vegetative phase and is influenced by plant genetics among other variables. Unfortunately, stretching is a recurring culprit in poor yields and plants that are too long resulting in the wobble of physically unstable crops. Despite the threat it confers, stretching can be controlled by first examining the factors influencing growth and then creating a protocol to accompany these problems step by step. Controlling cannabis stretching requires an understanding of how plants interact with their internal and external environments. WHY DO PLANTS STRETCH? There are many reasons why plants are stretched, one of which revolves around the varieties themselves. Genetics play an essential role in determining the possible height of sativas, indicas and hybrids. While most indica varieties are reared to grow in a smaller and denser way, sativas often undergo significant stretches of up to sometimes almost 2 or more mothers depending on the species. While stretching itself is not harmful, drastic flare-ups on the part of the stems can result in the potential loss of a large crop of between 20% and 30% in total. When thinking about species for your next home growing session, look for the standard size of each variety you are interested in so you can judge whether or not these species undergo drastic stretching during flowering.
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@Dmon88
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I was very surprised with the outcome i didnt expect much from an auto much less a first grow but my has she really impressed id suggest for a first time growing but im going to start searching for higher potency strain with better germ rates this was the only 1 of 5 who pulled threw. im working on my next run and will be catching it up later today0
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@Dendegrow
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Frozen Black Cherry – Week 4 The Frozen Black Cherry is looking amazing this week! 🍒 I went ahead and lollipopped the plant to improve airflow and focus energy on the main buds. 🌿 I also added a spoonful of Greenhouse Feeding as a booster to give it that extra push. 🚀 The plant is developing beautifully, and the buds are starting to show great potential! 🌟 Can't wait to see how it turns out—stay tuned for more updates! 😎 --- Frozen Black Cherry – Woche 4 Die Frozen Black Cherry entwickelt sich diese Woche richtig prächtig! 🍒 Ich habe die Pflanze gelollipopped, um die Luftzirkulation zu verbessern und die Energie auf die Haupt-Buds zu konzentrieren. 🌿 Zudem habe ich einen Löffel Greenhouse Feeding als Booster drauf gepackt, um ihr noch einen Extra-Schub zu geben. 🚀 Sie entwickelt sich fantastisch, und die Buds zeigen schon jetzt großes Potenzial! 🌟 Ich bin gespannt, wie sie sich weiterentwickelt—bleibt dran für mehr Updates! 😎
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@Theia
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The tropicana cherry is a magnificent plant. Its stocky and stout with really great node space. I love how solid she is and i just see such a good foundation for stretch. A really explosive week of growth. I pushed PPFD up to 310umols. Dimmers are at 60% which is drawing 224w plus 18w of DRRB. I have alos started Emerson effect ... Another The Emerson effect is triggered by the simultaneous exposure of plants to light in the deep red and far-red spectra Deep Red 660 nm /Far-Red 700 nm . A bit of boring science that explains why you need both far red and deep red in order to trigger Emerson. The effect occurs because photosynthesis is driven by two distinct pigment systems working in series:Photosystem II (PSII): Absorbs energy most efficiently at shorter wavelengths (higher frequencies), like 680 nm (441 THz). Photosystem I (PSI): Absorbs energy most efficiently at longer wavelengths (lower frequencies), specifically 700 nm (428 THz). When you provide only the higher frequency (deep red), PSI becomes a bottleneck. When you provide only the lower frequency (far-red), PSII is not sufficiently excited to provide electrons. Providing both frequencies simultaneously allows both systems to work at peak efficiency, resulting in a rate of photosynthesis that is greater than the sum of the two lights used individually. To understand the Emerson Effect, think of photosynthesis not as a single engine, but as a two-stage assembly line. What is the Emerson Effect? Discovered by Robert Emerson in 1957, this phenomenon shows that plants perform photosynthesis much more efficiently when they are hit by two specific types of light at the same time: Deep Red (660 nm) and Far-Red (700+ nm). If you give a plant only Far-Red light, photosynthesis is very slow. If you give it only Deep Red, it's better but still limited. However, when you give it both at once, the total rate of photosynthesis is significantly higher than if you just added the two results together (1+1=3). What is Happening? (The "Assembly Line") Inside the plant's chloroplasts, there are two "workstations" called Photosystem II (PSII) and Photosystem I (PSI). They work in series, meaning the first one must pass "parts" to the second one. PSII (The First Station): This station is tuned to catch Deep Red light (660 nm). It harvests electrons from water. PSI (The Second Station): This station is tuned to catch Far-Red light (700 nm). It takes the electrons from the first station and uses them to create energy (ATP and NADPH). The Problem: If you only provide Deep Red light, the first station works fast, but the second station can't keep up because it isn't being "powered" efficiently by that specific frequency. This creates a traffic jam of electrons. The Solution: By adding Far-Red light, you power up the second station. It now "pulls" the electrons from the first station much faster, clearing the traffic jam and making the whole assembly line run at full speed. The Benefits for The Grow Because i am using the Biotabs water-only method, my plants already have a steady supply of organic nutrients. Implementing the Emerson Effect offers several distinct advantages: Increased Biomass: Because the "engine" is running faster, the plant produces more sugars and carbohydrates, leading to heavier fruits or flowers. Faster Finishing: Plants often reach maturity sooner because they have more surplus energy to complete their life cycle. Better Light Penetration: Far-Red light is very good at passing through the upper leaves. This "wakes up" the lower parts of the plant that would otherwise be shaded, allowing the whole plant to contribute to growth. Enhanced Secondary Metabolites: In many crops, this synergistic light can stimulate the production of terpenes and antioxidants, improving the "quality" (smell, taste, and potency) of the final harvest. The "Sunrise/Sunset" Trick I am using 4x Invisible sun Far red/Deep red bars,they use high-quality Samsung LH351H (660nm Deep Red) and specific Far-Red (730nm) diodes for 10–15 minutes at the start or end of the light cycle. This mimics the natural shift in light at sunrise and sunset, "waking up" the photosystems or signaling the plant to go into "sleep mode" faster, which can further optimize the flowering cycle. Enviromentally i am chasing a VPD of about 1,1kpa. My room seem to sit nicely at lights on at 24c with no real drama and a little help from a 220W greenhouse bar radiator. Its using abot 4kw/h a day atm because my room is attached to the side of my house and its been -5c.. I have had to add some humidity as its also very dry atm. Im aiming for RH of 65% with my 24c but it is more around the 62s.. VPD is crucial and is the focus for this grow for me. The autopots and Biotabs make it so easy ican really just focus on perfect enviroment. A VPD of 1.0–1.2 kPa provides enough "atmospheric pull" to move calcium and magnesium up from the roots, which is critical for the rapid cell division happening now.. Plants will be flipped on Saturday which is their week 5 as im a bit behind.. As this happens i will push PPFD upto 4-500umols. by week 2 of flower. Thats the plan anyway..
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@Messypies
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In the second week the plant has now started to produce its first set of single bladed leafs.
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@Bluemels
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Tag 112: Zeit zum Spülen bzw. Ich gebe keinen Dünger mehr. Weil die Shogun doch schon recht hell/gelb ist, aber gebe ich noch Alg a mic dazu um noch etwas grün zu erhalten. Das Wetter hier spielt mir mal mehr mal weniger in Karten, der Sommer dieses Jahr ist sehr durchwachsen 😬
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Fantastic week. Lots has changed. Plants are stacking something fierce! I cut out the nitrogen completely this week, qnd that's how it will stay for the duration of the rest of the grow. I have found with autos, i have had the best luck when I push them hard with nitrogen up until this stage in growth. I then cut out the nitrogen completely and up the bloom nutes quite dramatically. For the rest of the grow I will feed every watering. Water at a 6.4 ph. Gro- 0ml per gal Micro- 10ml per gal Bloom- 15ml per gal Bug bud- 5ml per gal Very much looking forward to watching this batch swell!! This is the biggest plant in my grow at 27 inches tall so far! She may pick up an inch or two. Beautiful plant. And a mutant at that. 3 branches from each node instead of 2. Really cool. Great looking plant. Heavy stalk.
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Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wird heute geerntet. Der Geruch ist Fantastisch 🤙☺️
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Week 3 G14 everything is great I've increased the biobizz to 2ml still adding nitrozyme once a week and a little cal mag I've tied the top in a pony tail for 24/48hrs so branches underneath stretch I used a covid mask string very handy 17th added a net but the holes are a little small and it increases humidity so I've removed it.if your running a mars or any Chinese lights as you know they run hot and increase humidity check out video for a simple hack.