im gonna let it mature a bit more! its going good and its healthy! I also did some lolloping 4 days before flipping.

Week 5 (20/02 - 26/02) I made no progress with the LST last week, hoping to do better the next grow. Some secondary branches developed more than usually but not as expected. I haven't been effective enough with the training. The last day of the past week, the two fat banana moved into pre-flowering, while the blue cheese is still into vegetative stage. During this week, I will start to add bio-bloom and top-max together with the bio-grow. The light will be to 40 cm from top of the plants at 100% of its power. No changes to the heating/cooling parameters. 20/02 D28: - 21/02 D29: watering day. Added to 2.5 liters of tap water: 2ml Bio-Grow, 1ml Bio-Bloom, 1ml Top-Max. This evening, being secondary branches still flexible, I've tried to horizontally extend them with ropes in order to give them more light, let's see what happens in next two days. 22/02 D30: leafs sprayed with tap water 23/02 D31: watering day. 1 liter of tap water only each plant. Evening check: plants became thirsty; the soil seems to be almost dry even if I watered them this morning. 24/02 D32: watering day. Added to 2.5 liters of tap water: 2ml Bio-Grow, 2ml Bio-Bloom, 1ml Top-Max. 25/02 D33: leafs sprayed with water. 1 liter of tap water each because they are growing and drinking a lot. 26/02 D34: Added to 2 liters of tap water: 2ml Bio-Grow, 2ml Bio-Bloom, 1ml Top-Max. They seem to grow well and faster. The blue cheese seems to be in pre-flowering, almost a week later than the two fat banana.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

XL living up to its name with some mad chunky buds on the go , sticky and sweet she’s gonna be a Monsta by the time she’s done . Just keeping up the defol next few weeks to get the light into the flower and to cut down on humidity.

Start of week 3. Feeding a little more consistently. 1gal of the above every 3 days.

Добрейшие вечерочек ребятушки 🖖. Вторая неделя вегитации по зади. Я устроил чистку растениям, удалил 2 нижних этажа и большие верные листья. Также на растения были одеты 2 кольца для выращивания по технике "кольцевание" это кольцо передавит стебель и не даст сокам так опускаться так быстро, тем самым я увеличу количество питательных веществ в столе куста и ускорю на 5-9 дней время созревания. Также техника кольцевание делает кустики небольшими, но густым, это кольцо контролирует высо у куста. Подписывайтесь на меня, будет интересно 💪🔥😝 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Ребята предлагаю всем желающим подписаться на мои социальные сети где я делаю еще больше контента о каннабисе. Подписывайтесь пожалуйста буду рад всем 😜 !!! 👽 Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/jedi_genetics/?hl=ru 👻 YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRFN2LzgQ4gxDj-6CIIr82g ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

FastBuds? More like FatNugz! What a delight this Strawberry Banana was to grow! Smelling wonderful, trichome rich and compact buds! Will update a harvest report once she's dried and trimmed up & ready to bottle.

Plant is filling out the squars but i think its getting to over crowded. Ended up flipping the light to 12/12. I need to desperately clean underneath the canopy but i gotta figure out how to get to the back cuz my tent dont open that far. But it will get done sooner or later.

Der Samen hat eine ganze Weile gebraucht bis er eine Wurzel ausbildete. Ich habe ihn 3 Tage der „Papertowel“ Methode gehabt, anschließend ein paar Stunden ins Wasserglas gelegt und danach wieder zwischen zwei kleine Teller in nasses Papier. Es dauerte 4 Tage bis ich ihn einpflanzen konnte. 2 Tage später hat sie das Licht der Welt erblickt. Dieses besteht aus einem der beiden Panels der 240 Watt Kingbrite LED Lampe. Anfangs auf einen PPFD Wert von 150-200, habe ich es jetzt nach einer Woche auf 600 erhöht, um zu schauen, wie sie darauf reagiert. Die meisten Autoflowers sehen nach einer Woche weiter aus und diese hier fing ziemlich an zu spargeln, daher probiere ich mit dem Licht noch etwas herum. Das ist mein erster Grow mit den Green House Feeding Bio Düngern. Ich habe einen Coco + Perlite Mix verwendet und die Düngerangaben halbiert. Green House Feeding empfiehlt 3 gr/Liter Medium BioGrow bei 8 Wochen Wachstum. BioBloom soll eigentlich kurz vor der Blüte oben in die Erde eingearbeitet werden. Ich habe beide Varianten mit je 1,5 gr/Liter von Anfang ins Medium gemischt, da Barney‘s Farm den Zyklus für die Runtz Auto mit ca. 70 Tagen angibt. Ich rechne mit ca. 20 Tagen Wachstumsphase und anschließend Blütezeit. Ob das die richtige Entscheidung war, wird sich zeigen. Ich hoffe einfach, dass sich die Nährstoffe langsam freisetzen und zur richtigen Zeit verfügbar sind, ohne zu überdüngen. Als Bewässerung kommt eine 12V Pumpe mit 7 l/Min. zum Einsatz. Hinter dieser ist ein Y-Ventil verbaut, um die Mengen zu kontrollieren. Auch hier probiere ich noch etwas. Kokos soll eigentlich nicht austrocknen. In dieser frühen Phase aber 2 Mal am Tag zu gießen, fühlt sich auch nicht richtig an. Das Wasser ist ständig in Bewegung und wird vor dem Gießen auf pH 5,8 eingepegelt. Bei der Bewässerung gibt es noch Potenzial zur Optimierung, da sich das Wasser nicht im ganzen Topf verteilen lässt. Hier werde ich wohl auf die anderen Optionen von Floraflex zurückgreifen. Für den Anfang reicht es jedoch. Mal sehen, wie sie sich entwickelt. Danke für die Aufmerksamkeit.

Another great week, water every two days 2lt tap water. Microdosing of nutrient's basically just to feed the microbe's in the soil, the soil im using has slow release firtelizer for the first month's. They just strated to flower, doing good for now.

I enjoyed these autos quite a bit much more convenient for me, cbd wasn’t too resinous so the trim was much easier than my last experiences, having cbd bud nearby will be very useful.

Update 14/09/20 - All systems ahead at this stage. Plants are drinking approximately 2.5 litres per day and reservoir is constantly filled and Ph checked daily. Ph average 6.1 Humidity 50% Day Temp 28c Night 20c Seems to be Approximately 3 weeks left on Colorado Cookie & one of the mixed bag as well or may be slightly ahead, by possibly a few days. Time schedule looks as though 1 of the mixed bags 1st, then Colorado Cookie, 3rd Second mixed bag (lightly topped) then may a week or 2 will be the Blueberry. The next weeks 4 weeks are exciting!!! I'm excited to see how much more they fill out from this point! They may exceed my expectations!! 14/09/20 - I increased the nutrients slightly as the Blueberry was a little light green as opposed to all other plants that have that have lush green into flowering as well as a little extra flower boost to try to fatten up the buds. 5 mls extra of Flower Booster 25 mls per 10 ltrs. 16/09/20 - Realised that Mixed bag x 2 & Colorado Cookie only have approximately 3 - 4 weeks, so I decided to begin to reduce the nutrients instead on the 3 girls. Blueberry is at least 2 weeks behind so I have continued to feed her 1/4 nutrients and 20mls bloom per 10 ltrs. Did another defoliation on the Blueberry and this will be the last time for her until later in flower. very light defoliation of bud sites to Mixed bag x 2 & Colorado Cookie. * The Colorado Cookie has a magnificient fragrance, the Mixed bag as I'm not sure what they are they do have a Citrus fragrance. Trichomes have begun and are still clear An eye must be kept on Trichomes from here * 17/09/20 - Systems are good and everything moving along nicely.

Hallo zusammen🤙 Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme

Day68 HARVEST DAY big buds

I was going to upload the process, but the wiser side of me said no. So I've edited it out and some of the evaporation process can be seen. Bho/wax/honey whatever we care to call it

Day 57 - Starting week 9 today and she’s stacking up beautifully and already layered with frost. I really don’t want to do much defoliating right now but it’s looking like she might need a little bit soon but will just keep everything as tucked as I can. She got 2 gallons of plain water today and will get a dose of nutrients next feeding. Day 59 - Looks like feeding her a bit more and stronger seems to of helped cause the leaves color seems to be much better now and not noticing any new yellowing, so hopefully the deficiency is fixed. Other than that, her flowers are stacking beautifully and she’ll probably need some water in another day or two. Day 60 - Everything is going good overall still and no more real yellowing of the leaves. She’ll be ready for some water and nutes tomorrow. Day 61 - All still looks good with this girl and she was definitely ready for some water. Gave her 2 gallons of water and nutes today. Day 62 - All is well with this girl and enjoy watching the flowers stack up on her. Nothing much going on with her so just took her out for updated pictures and tucked the leaves when I put her back in the tent, might do a light defoliating in a couple days. Day 63 - The end of week 9 and though she’s got a couple weeks left, she’s finishing up pretty quickly. All kinds of frost on her and buds are getting nice and plump. She’s good on water and should be for another couple of days. Might do a little defoliating on watering day as well.

420Fastbuds FBT2312/Week5 What up grow fam. Sorry for the late weekly update but was having some technical difficulties. This week has been eventful to say the least. My heater went out letting my Temps drop to high 40'f for a night or two and wow did the plants tell me they're angry. Definitely starting to bounce back but just goes to show the reselants of Fastbuds genetics. I lollipoped and did one more defoliation this week so hopefully flower stage will be smooth sailing. All in all Happy Growing

So we are in week 2 of flower I ran out of Dutch pro and my hydro shop didn't have any in stock so I had to swap to canna 450ml A&B I've also added some bud blood. So today I did some defoliation to anything below my scrog net and tucked some of the bigger fan leaves to expose the new bud sites. I also raised my light a few inches to allow the ladies to grow into it. 21/5/21 The girls are growing fast I did some defoliation 2 days ago and I had to repeat today 26/5/21 Took some fan leaves off that where blocking bud sites only a small handful needed to be removed, I gave them a feed ppm 946 ph 6.3, bud sites are looking nice and healthy I've got plenty of air flow throughout my tent, have yet to notice any aroma but still very early days. That's all for now gays and gals happy growing and pleasant smoking ;)