Welcome back boys, Everything's going as planned :) Still don't know if I should defoliate, I chose to let the leaves grow a bit more until next week. I will use wood sticks to maintain them a little more spaced. See you next week buddies

Week 3 - nice growth in each plant, the blueberry is a lot hungrier, I may need to introduce a mid-week feeding of sensizym for her. The 2 OG kush have very tight node space and bud sights. A little bit of defoliation of fans leaves.

Smell very strong

Made sure the run off was 0.5ms, the water that I feed with has a reading of 0.3ms so I'm looking forward to when she has dried and cured so I can update with the smoke review

Week 11 All is under control: plants are growing correctly, healthy, deep green… perfect size, a few weeks before flowering cycle; I did a second topping week 10 on everyone (+6 nodes): I would have a maximum size around 150 cm for discretion and space. Still Aphids problem on the Royal Moby and I treated leaves by hand with Soap…making a mistake: too late in the morning so the sun burned some leaves. This insects are still there but the infestation is contained for the moment. I sprayed Neem oil on all plants. Added more soil in each pot : 1.5/2L of humus worm + guano bat. I observed a sort of burn on lhe extremity of leaves: possibly a sign of nitrogen excess. I stopped nutrients for a while, adding just enzyme and Alga Mic. Watering around 1.25L/2 days Daylight 15h30 - 6h25/21h55 Sunny days, cloudy sometimes, windy (NNE) T°= 13ºC N / 21°C D Humidity 67%

Went from 60 to 90's. First day with humidity....come on rain, give it to me. Leaving the greenhouse wide open so not to overheat. Set the damaged plant in a chained hanging basket to allow sun absorption all day and keep her off the ground for now. The weather is changing into serious growing mode and they love it. Stems are bulking up and holding well against whatever the weather Gods can throw at them. They are adapting to LST very well.

So these girls are shorter than expected allthough the 2 girls are of decent height enough for me too flip along side my aptus fed girls. I have defoliate all areas that covers light getting too the lowers and also removed excess branching too focus energy towards the main tops also did this via a little lst 🌱 One of each plus an extra 412 so hopefully they stick through and make it too harvest which they look too be healthy so far. I will next defoliate on week 3 of flower and also remove excess plant matter taking up neccasary energy 🌱 Shogun is serving them well so fa! Lights will be 12/12 tonight Week 1 flower commences then Stay blessed 💚

This strain give us a highest yield so far with 924g of dry buds after trimming and ready to be cured. And this pheno is pretty strong, it grows super fast, and have a very strong smell of jackfruit.

The aroma of wood and lemon is over whelming as I did a light defoliation during the start of the week, this will aid in finishing up the lower bud sites.. Super close to harvest now but she is still throwing out fresh white hairs so I know there's some fattening up to do. Counting these last fleeting days can always feel so taxing don't you agree? Anxiously awaiting harvest time now, patience in all good things. 💪

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Day 55/June 4, 2020: Amended topsoil with 10 tablespoons of Gaia Green 2-8-4 and 3.25 tablespoons of Gaia Green 4-4-4 organic slow release nutrients. Watered with PH 6.67

The plants are exploding in growth. Especially the gorilla cookies. I need to start doing a better job of watering my girls. I means its hard having to mix up all these nutrients at one time so I water my plants 2 at a time. I water 2 one day then the other 2 the next day. Im trying this method out cause it makes watering not so intense during dlower.

Started a new 4 plant 100w run. This time we have the spider farmer sf1000. Nicely built . Strains are Sensi double kush cake , blackberry gum, exodus cheese and Strawberry cheesecake

Had to trim a little early because of a last minute holiday but got her done .. 16 hours of it 🤦 .. Some massive long buds on them .. rather easy to trim because effort was put in before hand deleafing an tidying up Time will tel now 🤗😁

Transporting tomorrow to final pot of 2 gl. Going to use happy frog. However I think I need some nitrogen cause I'm noticing some leaving starting to yellow. Also I am throwing out another 8 plants that haven't grown since last week's post.