High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

2022-09-03 I planted all 3 Seeds, started one indoors and 2 Outdoors 2 Outdoors were attacked by the Cat- and did not survive The indoor Girls developed very fast, and after 4 Weeks she went Outdoors too. There she showed great Performance. Easy to grow, no big attention needed. She was pleaded with her light prefertilsed Soilmix, and n eeded only afew Feedings in Stretch and i think one Bloom Feeding in Flower. After only 6 full Weeks of Flower, she war ready to Harvest. harbvesting was very easy here. Buds are thick, and dense. ( and sticky). The ratio from leaves to Buds are Phenomenal--- economic Plant---- nearly to no waste Only some branches, a handfull of leaves, and a big amount of lovely smelling Flowers The smell yes,,,, she smells like Pink grapefruit, and Peaches...... Stay tuned for smokingreport

Critical Purple Kush was an effortless grow. The plant beside her got spider kites but they didn't like that CPK so much. She had a few show up on lower leaves, never any webs. I treated for them twice and they never resurfaced.

This was the girls 1st full week of flower. They have done great, lots of stretch, small buds starting to form, and lots of praying 🙏 They have been pretty easy so far, I hit the barrier for these girls with nutrients, burnt the tips a bit , despite that, they have shown no issues. Looking forward to these girls finishing (as always) but they have been lab tested by other home growers who hit 3-4% terpenes, and close to 29% thc

the left "nemo" is much further along than "v" on the right. began tapering back on both nutrients, after this last compost tea feed nemo is getting flushed, just RO water and finish by heavy 16. V needs another week to develop then 2 weeks to flush and finish. will probably chop nemp im 2 weeks between day 67-70 of flower, based on trichome color. after initial harvest on nemos tops im going to re-weave "v" tops thru scrog fpr better airflow, light use and allow them to fill and finish with the lower buds of nemo at probably day 77 or so, its slower rolling, much more haze pheno, both leaf shape, bud structure and smell. Nemo is much more blueberry, finishing sooner, smells like blueberry candy and has wider fan leafs.

Hey Growmies! I’ve been out of town, so this entry is a bit off-schedule, and watering was handled by an automatic irrigation system. That said, the flowers are looking big and developing fast, with senescence in full effect. The leaves are yellowing significantly, which tells us the plants are now entering the late stage of their lifecycle. They’re basically ready for harvest any day now—depending on your individual preference. I’m going to let them ride a little longer to aim for no more than 10% clear trichomes. 🙂 --- Quick rundown on everything else: Watering: 1500ml every third day Fertilizer: According to the BioBizz schedule Light intensity: ~1000 PPFD VPD: ~1.82 kPa Temperature: ~28°C Relative humidity: ~50%

This week i split the stem on my purple lemonade auto to see if it gets bigger yield and bigger buds i will soon see the purple only has about three weeks to go the gorilla glue auto has along way to go but its flowering hard and fast

Week 3 has come and gone. I think the stretch is now over. I got roughly 8” of growth on top of my net. Hopefully all 8” fills up with nice bud. I counted over 150 top bud sites. Goal is the get at least 14 grams per bud site. The frost production on this plant is out of control. Week three and you can already see trichomes producing on the fan leaves. I have been having to take off close to 50-70 leaves a week in order to keep proper airflow. She is so packed in the net I'm afraid of low airflow once they start getting fat. Only downfall so far is this plant develops loads of leaf. Hopefully that stops during the bulking phase. I keep bumping the nutrients up and she is taking every bit of it. Currently at 2.8ec. She was drinking tons during the stretch but has now gone back to normal amounts. I’m reverting back to every other day watering since last water I got nearly 50% run off. So far the smell is exactly like you open a bag of fruity pebbles. It’s not quite there when you open the tent but once you rub some bud it’s undoubtedly fruity pebbles smell. Hopefully we start seeing the mass put on in the next few weeks. 1/3 of the way done with flower already and she has been doing great.

05/27/2021 Its been a while but all is well, the red light only seems to have encouraged lots of new growth. But I think I'm going to stick with 25-50% blue spectrum and 100% red for the finish. I'm kind of disappointed that she has no distinguishing smell, but she was bred for resistance to PM specifically. All the good stuff will come once i have stabilized consistent PM resistance. (Work in progress) Then the good stuff will be worked in..... If needed. Ps. I do believe it will likely be 12+ weeks of flowering to finish (Hope she has a racy/trippy sativa side) fingers crossed🙏

Week 8 (17-3 to 23-3) 17-3 Temps: 17.4 to 21.9 degrees Humidity: 60% to 72% 18-3 Temps: 17.5 to 22.2 degrees Humidity: 54% to 65% 19-3 Temps: 17.9 to 22.4 degrees Humidity: 52% to 61% Watering: Both 500 ml. EC: 0.4 Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.4 Defoliated both plants and attached some shoots to the rack. She got really big fan leaves! I also supercropped some branches. 20-3 Temps: 18.2 to 22.8 degrees Humidity: 59% to 69% 21-3 Temps: 18.5 to 23.4 degrees Humidity: 57% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. 22-3 Temps: 19.4 to 24.1 degrees Humidity: 55% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. Set the strength of the light to 50% 23-3 Temps: 19.8 to 24.8 degrees Humidity: 58% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. As you can see, instead of removing the leaves, i tucked down all the leaves to open up the canopy. I will see if i like this method as its the first time i try this. I also attached some more shoots to the rack, its looking nicely spread out now :) The #2 makes my fingers very sticky and smells really strong! I love it!

finally the plants went into bloom. they are suffering a bit from the heat because the outside temperature is very high here. we hope to be able to reach the end of the cycle without problems.

On day ten I did my first feeding at half dosage and lowered the lights from 21inches to 18, ladies responded really well. Notice growth by the next morning. On day day twelve I did second feed which went well. Did my third feed on day thirteen, which did not go well, 5 hours after feeding I notice leafs were cured up, I brought the lights up to 21 inches and fixed the problem. Light burn. Day fifteen I tried LST which did not go well since this was my first time doing this. Day 16 ladies where back to normal so I did Fimming and see how that works out for me. Wish me luck.

was busy setting up new tent and light and fixing old one. plants are now in a more controlled environment. new setup has plants feeling better. higher temps and better humidity. probably going to top 2 out of 4 plants. they appear to be coming out of the stress from transplanting and moving and too cold environment. hoping to switch to flower in 2 weeks. big pots are 5 gal and others like 2.5

This week was uneventful. I fed them Monday, Wednesday and Friday with Iguana Juice Grow @ 0.5oz/gal and gave them about 1/2gal each. I gave them a light watering each day to keep the top soil moist and add a bit of humidity. 2/4 are in pots about 150gal, one is in a 100gal or so, and one is in a 5ish gallon pot. They are just cruising along, enjoying the ride. See y'all in a week!

🎩🌈🍬⛽️💎🏁✂️

Tag 46: Die Pflanze ist wieder schön nachgegrünt, vielleicht hätte ich mehr Dünger geben sollen?

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Phwoah! Grow Genius silica came thru in a big way, blessing the Blue Paint crew with the rigidity we’d hoped for. One pheno has a slight curve to it and it’s now evident that they’re starting to break away from each other in phenotypical expressions by way of height, strength and leaf structure (possible variations in new growth width), but these might well be environmental influences rather than genetic. Seedling feeding regimen has been swapped out for the veg stack. The environment of the nursery tent saw a slight shift downward in temperature as the seasons press closer to winter but this didn’t stop progress, even after the Blue Paint crew got a repotting, increasing their root space 10 fold. With the increase in legroom they also got an upgrade to first class with a tent of their own as older auto tent sisters were shifted to their final grow space. Unfortunately this might only tide them over for a short while. The worry is, longer than expected flower cycles mean their final home, the photo tent, is still packed to the rafters with ripening flower and Blue Paint is coming up behind at an alarming rate. No choice but to play it by ear and possibly end up making some big purchases, drastic changes or tough calls. Ready and willing if it comes to it, fire genetics over bag seed all day long 😂. If you’re keen to see other stuff I’m doing hit my Insta, Booka @bestendank420. Stay lifted, big love and boomshanka 🤙 Booka @ BestenDank