7 days exactly... 3 of the seeds made it.... all 3 look good.... just seed raising soil mixed with perlite, inside jiffy pots that break down in 2-6 weeks... just normal tap water atm, and i'll water them less now, let them dry out abit... Day 8 - pics/vid.... Had a look under the jiffy's, all 3 had 1-3 cm roots poking out, they went straight thru the jiffy like it was not even there..... (pic - Day 8 - Root straight thru all 3 pots.).... so, went into emergency repotting day... lol....... i don't want the roots restricted or damaged in any way, so, got what pots and soil i had, and put em in, (2 x 13.5 lt pot, and 1 x 7.7 lt). Day 9 - some pics, bought a new tent (wait delivery), just got em under afew 6400k led's atm .... they seem happy..... 👍 😎

I was getting a bit frustrated again, since I could not seem to fix the issue properly. I put in a net and super cropped the GMO twice, while bending the rest of the GMO and Glookies under the net. I chose the height to be slightly above where the Acapulco Gold was so I could push it into and did not have too much trouble to also fit the other 2, much taller plants underneath. I had to move the tallest GMO branch across the center of the tent, invading the space of Sour Strawberry and Acapulco Gold.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

1st WddngCake is under a SpiderFarmer SF 1000D 100W but an older model. The 2nd WddngCake is under a MarsHydro FC-E1500 LED 150W. They also receive on the sides UV (total per day 2 and 1/2 h ) exposure and IR (total per day 2h) From a Secret Jardin Cosmorrow UV 40W and one Secret Jardin Cosmorrow IR 40 W. UV 1h in the morning starting with main light, 1h in the afternoon and 1/2 h just before the main light goes off. IR 1/2 h in the morning before any lights even start then letting it another 1/2 h with all the other lights.Total 1h IR 1/2 in the evening right before all the lights go out and let it smooth out 1/2 alone without the other lights. Total 1h 1/13/25 The girls are starting the week ok. 1/14/25 1st WddngCake, She is older, is happier after the flush, still has a little bit of alkaline soil but i don't want to stress her out to much. Gave her a little BioBizz CalMag aprox 3,5 ml ; TopMax 5ml and 5 ml BioBlom . All mixed in 3,3 l PHed Water at PH 5.0 ppm 290. Runoff PH 6,8 :( ppm 1100. Also took like a handful of inter buds leafs :D . I think she will be ok. Seeing signs of buds fattening, new pistils. Frosty :D 2nd WddngCake Is very strong starting to fatten up the buds because she is younger and just now entering that stage. Like I already said her smell still resembles a tropical sweet creamy hoppy IPA. I think she is good, no major problems. Gave her 3,3 l of PHed water. Also mixed in CalMag 2,6 ml; 4 ml TopMax and 5 ml BioBloom. PH 5,4 ppm 207. Runoff PH 6,08 and ppm 302. I think is a good sign that i flushed a lot of nutrients from the soil and she also used a lot of them. Should keep and eye on that. Took 5 inter buds leafs off. 1/15/25 They are doing ok, both are fattening their buds and coming around good. The 2nd WddngCake better then the 1st one because I didn't make so many mistakes with her 😬 The tent is smelling great the Temp is at 23 C at night 20 C and RH at 50% (+- 3%) . 1st WddngCake stand at 47 cm and the 2nd WddngCake at 74 cm at their highest. New Photos! 😍😃 1/17/25 Back with some updates. The girls are doing wonderful. Shades of pinkish darkish greenish on both. The 1st Wddng Cake Auto, is older and showing this colors also on the very small sugar leafs. Gave her 4,2 l of PHed water, going in PH 5,6 and ppm 95. The Runoff is at PH 6,4 ppm 205 and I feel like now she is a little bit happier. Soil PH at 7,3 but not measuring precisely have a cheap tho rod measure stabby thing. The 2nd Wddng Cake Auto is younger, starting to forming her full flowers, bursting with mass . She also displays the colors mentioned above on the leafs closer to the main buds and also here and there on other sugar leafs. Gave her 4,2 l PHed water , going in PH 5,4 ppm 110. Runoff at PH 6,5 ppm 195 . Her soil PH is also at PH 7,3 kinda of. :)) I can see she is happier. I think is because i didn't make mistakes at the start. I also had 2 other Autos that aren't on here. But none of them grew like this one. Until now :)). Also took from both some leafs here and there. I think like a hand full total. Half a handful a plant. :D In the new photos you can see the "between the fingers roll" 😁 like i call it. That I only do twice in the life of an Auto, not to stress her to much.😨 Temp in the tent at 24 C when day +-2 C. At night time 21 C +- 1 C . Rh 50% +- 3% all of the time. Ventilators on for wind, and the grow must go on 👽🙌 1/18/25 So just 1 day until end of the week. I just got a Microscope. Very good actually recommend Andonstar AD203 Portable, 4' Screen also metal holder. A microSD Card 32Gb is also included and the data cable. Has a battery. Handels good. for the money i am surprised 😍. 1st Wddng Cake Took some pictures of the thricomes and I see a lot of milky one, some clear ones too. No amber ones. I think the harvest window is open but , I don't have time to harvest now. I also prefer also to let it a few days. Also must see for an extra tent to do 2 "days" of darkness.😥 2nd Wddng Cake is doing good, starting to fade in nuances of pink dark green just on the leafs of the top. and just a little bit of yellow.😢 But tomorrow she will get another feed to push her further the 2 weeks or so she has got to go😍 Seems i forgot to set the clock of the Microscope:))), i just went to town because it was half battery full :)))). Also Pictures from under the Microscope 😍😁 1/19/25 Sooo end of week. I think we are fine. All the things that should be happening are happening :)). Sorry i messed up the timelines. But the older one smaller one will be 10 weeks old in 2 days. And the younger one is gonna be 9 weeks in 3 days. Or something like that. Chaotic start like i said :)). 1st Wedding Cake Auto is starting to open her harvest window. Very much thanks to all that answered my grow question. She got 4,9 l of water PH 5,4 ppm 92; Soil Ph aprox 7; Runoff PH 6,6 ppm 305. I will keep an eye on her because she will be done in like about a week or maybe 2. Must see how next week goes. Continue to give PH water no nutes 😁 She is aprox 10 weeks old. 2nd Wedding Cake Auto changed color more on the leafs. Purple dark green. Some little bit of yellow. But today i feed her. She got 4,2 l water with CalMAg 3,5 ; Activera 5 ml ; Algamic 5 ml; Bio Heaven 5 ml; BioBloom 5ml; TopMax 6ml. Going in PH 5,7 ppm 315; Soil aprox PH 7; Runoff PH 6,9😢 ppm 610. She is younger then her sister so i think 3 - 4 weeks. We will see. 😆 New pics 😁

WEEK 5 - both ladies are stretching, no issue so far pleasure to grow 9L Pot I started notice pre flowering stage 12L Pot the is getting bigger but still in veg stage

Starting to Low Stress Training and super cropping some secondaries

Germination date 🌱 02/12/2021 Day 87 02/03/2022 Strain 🍁 Barney's Farms Biscotti Mintz (Biscotti x Mintz) THC% • 30% 💡 Mars Hydro FC-E6500 • Power draw 650W + 5% • Max coverage 5 x 5 • LED 3978 pcs high quality chips • Max Yield 2.5g / watt • Noise level 0 DB • Removable Driver & Light bars • Daisy chain • Fast cool system https://marshydroled.co.uk/ 🇬🇧 PROMO CODE • (organicnature420) DISCOUNT https://www.mars-hydro.com/ 🇺🇲 PROMO CODE • (ORG420) DISCOUNT 👍🏻 ⛺ Mars Hydro 150 x 150 x 200cm 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch 💧 10lt dehumidifier ❄️ 3.1kw air con system 💉 Nutrients Dr Forest (dry amendments) Grow Bloom Bloom2 🌱 Growing Media • Soil Notes 📝 Going from a runt to a beautiful smelling girl. She smells so good and to be fair stronger than the other 2. The mutant is proving to be a winner. If only I had room to reveg the mutant bit when it's done I would. Not much on her but she looks lovely 🌱💚 Top feed added Discount codes in bio for Mars hydro

Todos los días actualización nueva, pendientes !!

4/3 to 4/9 Veg Days 7 to 13 Week 1 Not much to talk about here. They took to the soil as expected with no issues. One plant's 6 day advantage is really showing here tho. Think I will have to dub that one as "P1" simply because of the timing of root start. Feed this week was 1.5cup & 2.5cups of 6.4ph RO (no nutes) with 4 days between and 4 days after the last feed. Both feeds produced a little runoff, so I know I got the water through well enough. Feed plan next week will increase the amounts to 2.5cup & 3cups of RO and introduce my Veg Mix concentrate. Same feed intervals of about 4 days between feeds. I still want to see the water run through, so if I need to use more than 2.5 cups I will. The idea is to water deep and through, but then make them search for more before the next feed, hopefuly spreading the roots out while doing it. Video - simple growth video since there's nothing to really do this week but watch them grow.

Cambio de foco. 2 LED COB de 200w cada uno por Monkled 160W. El cambio visiblemente es mejor, nuevo led presenta mejoras las primeras 24 horas de uso. Comienza el riego con mayor cantidad de agua. De 500 a 900 cc por planta aprox.

The 2 GSC extreme and one of the GG4 got harvested this morning Dec 20th. The rest are a week or two behind.

Leaves are getting more yellow. Light burn? Turning the light down to 18 hours soon

Flushing the bigger girl since day 140. Harvested the smaller girl on day 141, but will show you the results after I harvest the other one. I had a little of it, but I had cut some branches to smoke some weed previously!