Week 6 flowering for the ztrawberriez from fastbuds 420! At the moment the buds are getting bigger and getting more and more thc, i dont think that a lot of time is left so we gave some extra food this werk and we will stop soon feeding to start with the flush and give only water the last week. This week we gave amino, sugar shot, sticky fingers, bloom booster, enzymes, silica and some more master roots

It was a roller coaster ride guys but I started with four harvested I earlier got two ounce quick dry wasent flushed properly but these ones hav been there a some nice buds here n a hopefully will get a decent seed harvest stoned @chedderbob112 s2340420 don’t hav dry weight bud av went for fullness plant

plants r almost DEAD

nothing to do just waiting

💩Alrighty then Growmies We Are Back At it 💩 Well folks we just finished up the last run and so we are bad to do it all over again 😁 So what do you say we have some fun 👈 We got some Z & Z 🚗 🚘 🚗 🚘 👉 From Exotic Seeds I just had to try this one again and see if the last seed would germinate and she popped 👌 Seed soaked for 24 then placed in a tub with paper towels , once it cracked and rooted , placed into its main pot 👌 FC4800 from MarsHydro Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 www.marshydro.ca 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Welcome to week 8 or Flower week 3 The Strains from Sweet Seeds doing Amazing ! 4 x gorilla Girl f1 6 x tropicana Poison F1 -Gorilla Tent 4x8 Shorty -2x 600 watt lights -20 Liter pots with Narcos Organic Mix -Narcos organic Nutriets With every water for the Plants - 2-3 Liter every 1-2 day Each plant - 28 day temperature - 55 % Humidity The plants Stretching a lot . The tropicana more then the gorillas . Every Plant looks Healthy and im doing a bigger defoliation the next days for Each plant . Tempartures are betwenn 27-30 and the Humidity about 50-63% Keep up Growing everyone !

Back to the 1000 wt as temps here are modest for July atm. Still 1 plant not flowering like the other 2. I will be patient as it’s overall structure looks amazing. Slowly easing into the process not as much anxiety about every little thing. Changed my light out for my lower power 600 wt led instead of the 1000wt TMLAPY. Maybe not the right move i really don't know what to do b/c i have tip burn and my tent gets a bit hot in the low 80s when its in the 90s here in Illinois. I have an makeshift cooler w fan and some fans and my exhaust fan system which im pretty sure is under powered and overall and bad beginner purchase. I will upgrade as soon as i can financially afford to. Also had flooding issues in basement which is always an adventure, i eventually need a better way to get my grow tent up off the ground b/c water does get in there sometimes. Doing everything in my power to avoid mold and have fans and filters and cleaning, but again this may have been a beginner mistake and i may have to find a new home for the tent for the next time. Also I definitely had been under watering the girls and came close to one of them dying and have to remove some yellow leaves at bottom, they all look stable now. 1 out of 3 plants has a darker color and looks fuller and healthier w less tip burn but it is shorter only has a couple of hairs where the other 2 are going full on into flowering with so many hairs and growing much taller. Possibly stunted the growth... Anyway the word of the day for this week is TIP BURN. I will submit a question to follow. i recently uploaded a video that should show all 3 plants w the tip burn.

Pasaremos la tiger bomb al armário grande, cuando acabemos el seguimientos de Royal Queen Seeds! Entrenaremos el Scrog por primera vez.🤙🏻

Hello everyone 😎 Week 5 of flower for the KK auto from Dutch Passion ❤️‍🔥 Spider Farmer SE-7000 70% For the nutrient 4ml/L terra bloom & 1ml/L power buds from plagron Have a nice day 🤩

Buena semana de lluvia que hemos tenido por mi zona. ¿Qué tal están? A principios de semana le realizamos su último trasplante a maceta final de 7 litros. También una defoliación, que le dejé solo hojas en los dos últimos nudos. Y nada, mantuvieron el sustrato húmedo, con el riego del propio trasplante. Así que estas pidiendo agua, y en cuanto se vuelva a encender el foco, le daremos su riego. Y bueno, ya pocos días restan para que empiece la fase de floración. Muchas gracias por el apoyo recibido, y nos vemos otra semana más, un saludo y buenos humos🙌

Week 2 went well they are progressing normally. A#3 is a bit smaller than the rest but not surprising being that it sprouted with the shell fully attached and the other 2 had a nearly 4 day headstart. I'm happy she made it and was able to break through the shell. It seems adding saliva to it did the trick. Feeding schedule has been poor due to my busy schedule, I've feed them twice this week both times I gave them each 1/3 of a gallon that was mixed with 1/4 tsp each of general hydroponics floramicro, micro, and 1/8 tsp bloom and 2 ounces of Vermis Terra. 18/6 ls, 84°/43% dt, 73°/53%nt, 6.3-6.5 ph

MrJones Black Berry OG 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹WEEKLY GOALS🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 🌞Environment - 75/80℉ and 55% Humidity 💧 Feeding - Using "Super Coco" amended soil. compost teas, Dechlorinated H20 PH/6.5 Fish Fertilizer, about 4 ounces of water per day. 🍃Training / 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between product each month for Integrated Pest Management. 💡Mars Hydro LED / 480W FC 4800 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 ▶️ Tuesday 12.29.20 Started these seeds in a mixture of 70/30 COCO 80% and Lobster Compost 20%, using my gemination cabinet, keeping RH at 55/60% and Temperature around 75/78F under a TS-1000 at 25% power. ▶️ Wednesday - 12.30.20 Keeping soil moist waiting for seeds to pop ▶️ Thursday - 12.31.20 Keeping soil moist waiting for seeds to pop ▶️ Friday - 01.01.21 Keeping soil moist waiting for seeds to pop, looks like 5 of the 6 are starting to push up ▶️ Saturday - 01.02.21 Keeping the soil moist the seedlings are about 1/2 inch tall, looking great, I have faith that the 6th seed will pop soon ▶️ Sunday - 01.03.21 Keeping the soil moist the seedlings continue to look great ▶️ Monday - 01.03.21 Keeping the soil moist, turned on a fan to add movement to the seedlings, along with BioBiz Root Juice. ▶️ Tuesday - 01.04.21 The new ladies are doing great already starting to move past 1 inch tall, sp the final seeds to pop were 5/6 that pretty damn good to me! 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 📜 Cultivar Information - We have created this strain by crossing the best Black Domina available with Very Berry and our own Lost Coast OG Kush, this plant produces large colas with a super intense sweet berry flavor with a sweet-smelling aroma that varies from fruit and berries to sweet candy. This lady offers tight internal stacking giving a perfect structure for those super heavy colas, which is perfect for growth both indoors and out, if grown outside she is fairly resistant to mold and powdery mildew which is a real bonus with such large colas. 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹

La pianta in fondo e destra e gia quasi pronta, penso che le raccoglierò in tempi diversi perché sono maturate e stanno maturando in temp diversi

The plants would have been growing well if I were there to figure out what was wrong with them but I was on the first week of a 2 week vacation so my gf didn't know what to do with them and I could only try to give tips from afar. I assumed they would all die.

Hello, long time, no grow. I’m trilled to start on a new grow project, i’m away from growing a long time, but my love for ot was always present, i miss it a lot so i have got a few strains from Fastbuds to test and come back with a minimal setup. I have got the Fastberry, Bluedream, and the 1:20 cbd, they have sent in the Banana Purple punch Ok, so what is a minimal setup? For this grow i have choose to grow in my balcony, it is fairly big and i gave good sunlight, we are in summer now, so temps are high, swinging a lot. It is raining often as well so I did not need to water much. For the nutrients i will go organic i think, in my substrate i have about 30% warm castings, so i’m good for till mid grow length +-, i might add a bit of nutrients in 30 days mark. The objective of this experiment is to use as little as possible, 360 degrees. For the germination process i have used a mixed process method, that i have learned from Fastbuds and i have loved it, 24h in a glass of filtered water, paper towel for about 24h -48h and then the Floraflex gremination pellets, i have tested on the jiffy and worked fine as well. Cool about this method, if you are more on the anxious side or like to control more the process this is the way, you can follow the hole process and see the development in parts. I will add images later on, for this breakdown. Well that is it, lets hope for a cool, safe journey for this girls.

07/26/2020 Vegging,and bending! They are growing well but she can't seem to, clear up the powdery mildew.

Día 08 Entramos en la segunda semana de flora. Hice la mudanza y tuve que cortar un poquito de raíces ya que se habían ido por los caños hasta el depósito. Las raices estan tan crecidas que no puedo ni levantar las plantas con su canasta. Así que no pude enrollarlas para meterlas en el caño otra vez. Incluso me encontré con que las raíces se metían por los tubos negros de goma que las riegan. Tuve que sacarlos y destaparlos. En definitiva ayer hice un lavado preventivo con agua oxigenada para limpiar toda posibilidad de hongos en el sistema. Por ahora se las vé sanas y avanzando. Estoy esperando a que termine el estirón para hacer una poda de hojas. De todos modos voy a usar un tipo de poda que ya he hecho antes y me ha resultado muy bien. En lugar de cortar lad hojas de abajo, corto las hojas grandes de arriba, y de esa forma dejo una base de hojas en el medio de la planta, que alimentan a todas las ramas. Y así no tengo nada que tape la liz a las flores que quiera dejar. De esa mitad de planta para abajo, no qieda ninguna rama. Ya fui cortando algunas. Pero la semana que viene voy a hacer la poda más real. Me asusta un poco el tamaño de las raíces. No sé donde puede terminar esto. Dia 12 Hoy hice una defoliación fuerte. Corté muchas hojas y ramas. Pero el corte que hice es un tipo de corte que ya he hecho antes con muy buenos resultados. Elijo una altura que suele ser entre el 2do y 3er nudo, y corto todas las hojas grandes de arriba, dejando sólo las hojas grandes del medio y abajo. Todos los ápices que dejo, estan por encima de ese nivel de hojas que dejo. Por debajo de eso nada. De esa forma la planta sigue recibiendo luz en todas las flores, y en las hojas abajo de ellas. Solamente me preocupa que se han juntado mucho las ramas principales de cada planta. Así que voy a tener que aplicar un LST intensivo cuando empiecen a engordar. Seguramente ahora empiecen a tomar menos agua, dado que con la cantidad de hojas que había antes, transpiraban mucho. Ahora será cuestión de ir vigilando el engorde y no fallar al momento de splicar nutrientes. Para la 3ra semana pienso empezar a sumar big bud a la mezcla que uso. Y mantener el bud blood, pero a mitad de dosis. Al final se volvieron tan tupidas, que no pude dejar una sin cortar hojas, dado que ya estábamos hablando de hojas abanico que atravezaban casi todo el indoor a lo ancho. Espero que pronto empiece la floración propiamente dicha

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Both are enjoying life and growing big frosty grape smelling flowers.

Everything ok!👌