All the ladies are blowing up and it's the beginning of her flowering cycle. These are going to be beasts for autos. All healthy but 1 BB with a little yellow spots on her leaves. But she is still thriving. 19 HOURS ON 5 OFF!!!

Day 69 since Germ

Defoliated and trimmed lowers then flipped lights. One more defoliation at week 3 then smooth sailin to the end

Week 1

The ladies are stacking hard and smelling insane. The nicest pheno has some amazing bud structure with big icy buds and perfect node spacing. Smells like fresh zoap, sweet, fruity, gassy and parfume/soap-like. Incredible. She is by far the biggest plant, which is nice as she looks like the most productive one. My second favorite is looking beautiful. The structure on her is not so great and looks like a small producer. Very nice fruity/candy terps though, and incredibly icy. The stretchy tall pheno is looking great too. She smells more like a mix of #1 & #2, very icy as well. She stretched a lot so the top buds are very close to the light, and very foxtaily. The buds at 40-70 cm distance are looking more compact and dense. The least favo pheno looks very weird and small, bud the buds are pretty icy and smell very sweet.

15. Woche Sie sind jetzt in ihren Finalen Raum umgezogen und bleiben jetzt hier bis zur Ernte 😄

Not much to report this week. She is beautiful and loving life.

Moving right along, starting to bulk up now! 👏

This grow is pretty much on cruise control now. Just watering when dry, pretty easy stuff. This is personally my favourite part of the grow, new change everyday in the tent is cool to see 1 Cinderella 99 got chopped about a week ago, I’m out of smoke so this had a lot to with cutting it early. It turned out good tho and it feels good to have some stuff curing. Trying the jar and the bag. See witch one works better. The northern lights tent is coming along. These plants were slow starters so they will be a while yet. However they’re definitely going to grow some big ass kolas This might be the last week for 1 of the peyote cookies plants, we will see. How do cause it just looks sooooo tasty. Until next week guys, happy growing

The temperatures, humidity, height, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil to be spread evenly on top of the soil. Day 1 we had high temperature of 87°F with partly cloudy to cloudy skies. I watered 3-4 gallons from the hose. I added 100 ml of blood meal spread evenly across the top of the soil. Day 2 We had a high temperature of 85°F. It rained the previous night and intermittently raining and thunderstorms today. I did get these trained a little this morning. It's not finished, but I took some foliage off and opened them up by tying the branches to stakes arranged on the outside of the pots. I finished topping off these pots with soil that is premixed with nutrients. The rain is watering today. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 73°F and all day rain. The rain was what remained of hurricane Beryl. There was a lot of wind up to 20 miles per hour. These girls handled it and loved the rain. Day 4 we had clear sunny skies and a high temperature of 85°F. I fed 150 ml feather meal , 30 ml Plant Tone, and 50 ml Coop Poop. I watered 3-5 gallons from the water hose. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 86°F and partly cloudy skies. Plants #2and #3 developed powdery mildew on their lower leaves. I'm going to treat for the next 5 days with Arber organic biofungicide. I ran the fertilizer a little hot the girls are clawing and super dark green this evening Day 6 we had a high temperature of 85 with partly cloudy skies. Day 7 we had a high temperature of 86°F. This morning we had plenty of rain and wind. No need for watering. The skies were mostly cloudy to partly cloudy in the evening. This week was a success. We had lots of rain, cool nights and humidity. This caused the #2 and #3 plant to develop powdery mildew. This is the challenge here on the Ozark Plateau. We are strictly organic. We use no systemic fungicides and the only pesticide we use is occasionally is organic pyrethrin spray. That said, now that we've identified the plants that don't have immunity, we'll treat with Arber bio fungicide. This treatment will last 5 days then they have to make it with what they were born with. Also the nutrients ran a little hot on them. That and the several hours of rain depriving them of iron has their centers looking rough. They'll be better next week.

Growing this popsicle cake definitely had its ups and downs. What started out looking like a dud of a seed turned out to be something pretty spectacular. Stacks the buds nicely to fill up the whole colas, super frosty, with an un godly stench of sweaty dirty socks. Still in the curing process but definitely has a heavy indica punch!

TUESDAY 7/16: I graduated two of my hybrids to 3 gallon pots and moved them outdoors today. Both were Candy Cane x Amnesia Autos that had been in solo cups. They were both extremely well rooted and should do just fine. I watered them in with spring water and a little extra bokashi, dolomite, and azomite and wished them well. I hope to graduate a couple of the Candy Cane x C4's tomorrow or the next day, but it will be another week before the other CC x C4, the Candy Cane x Early Miss, and the Candy Cane (S1) are ready. Neither Candy Cane x White Widow seedling made it...😥 WEDNESDAY: I transplanted another Candy Cane x Amnesia and a Candy Cane x C4(purple pheno) into 3 gallon pots today. I watered them in with Azomite, Dolomite, Biochar, Kelp Me Kelp You and sprayed them with Boom Boom Juice a few times early in the morning. By noon, they were standing at attention and growing a millimeter a minute. They are loving the sunshine.😎 Tomorrow, I'll transplant another Candy Cane x C4 and another Candy Cane x Amnesia. The Candy Cane x Early Miss is a misshapen miniature mongrel, but I'm hoping she snaps out of her funk and gets busy growing soon. The Candy Cane(S1), and the last two Candy Cane x C4's are tiny little runts..I'm hoping the Boom Boom Juice I misted them with all morning will kick them into gear....🙏 I was really hoping to have at least one Candy Cane x White Widow in the grow too, so I went ahead and floated another bean last night..it had sunk by this morning. Fingers crossed... THURSDAY: I transplanted another Candy Cane x C4 and another Candy Cane x Amnesia into 3 gallon pots today. Out of Bio Tabs, so mixed up some of my recharged soil with a little extra coco coir, perlite, bokashi, biochar, and a handful of compost, along with some Osmocote Plus, then watered them in with azomite, dolomite and Kelp Me Kelp You. The day of sunshine did seem to kick the Candy Cane x Early Miss into gear, but I didn't really see much growth on the other CC x C4 or the Candy Cane (S1)..what did grow is really twisted up like the Early Miss hybrid..I'm thinking that I must've used too much Mycotrex and/or Great White on the new seedlings. They have all been rooted like crazy, but several had weird-looking, slow-starting, twisted foliage.😕 So the current line-up of hybrids in this diary consists of: 4 * Candy Cane x Amnesia Auto (planted) 2 * Candy Cane x C4 (planted) 1 * Candy Cane x Early Miss (not yet planted) 1 * Candy Cane x Amnesia Auto (not yet planted) 1 * Candy Cane (S1) (not yet planted) FRIDAY: Inspected for pests and repositioned them a few inches over so that they get another half hour of sunlight per day. I sprayed the area with Ortho again and bought a little air bubbler to aerate water for compost tea. SATURDAY: They've all put on a couple of inches since Thursday. I mixed up a fairly weak batch of Big Bloom and Grow Big plus some Kelp Me Kelp You and douched them with about a half-gallon right as the sun was coming up. I also prepared a foliar feed using Big Bloom and Kelp Me Kelp You and sprayed them well as the sun came up, and again after it was going down. I also started aerating 4 gallons of water today...will add the compost tea tomorrow morning and let it cook for 24 hours. The Candy Cane x Early MIss is a few days away from being planted and moving outdoors, and one of the remaining Candy Cane x C4's is a few days behind her. The other Candy Cane x C4 and the Candy Cane (S1) probably won't make it, but that's fine..I had really only planned to grow 5 hybrids plus a photo and a Zkittlez auto. Also, the Candy Cane x White Widow bean may yet come up. SUNDAY: I foliar fed them and sprinkled a little more Silicium Flash on top of the soil of all my plants and also mixed about 4 grams of Bactrex into a jug with 3/4 gallon of bottled water and douched them with about 2 pints each. That should really get the beneficial bacteria and fungus kicked into overdrive. I started brewing a 4 gallon batch of compost tea today. Since I don't have any Orgatrex, I am using a little Big Bloom, Kelp Me Kelp You, and Grow Big in the tea in addition to the PK Compost Booster tea from Bio Tabs. I'll add Mycotrex to it about 2 hours before it finishes and thoroughly dowse them all tomorrow morning. MONDAY: I fed the outdoor ones each about a liter of compost tea and foliar fed them a couple times as the sun came up, and gave each of the remaining seedlings in the cabinet about 2 shot glasses full each and foliar fed them as well. It looks like I've finally got a Candy Cane x White Widow Auto seed to sprout...fingers crossed that she takes off normally. If she does fully emerge, she's already waaaay behind the rest...🙏 Late last night one of my cats ate half of one of the biggest leaves on my Early Miss hybrid, but she's okay..actually starting to grow. I may actually plant her outdoors tomorrow.👍 It's been a decent week for them...tomorrow begins a new week.

Black Opium is looking very nice, healthy green colour and we are growing nicely. As she's still a little tall I have left the prop, so the stem gets to strengthen up and she won't fall over in the meantime. Here is what I fed this week. 11.7.25: I watered with 1ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.6 containing the following nutrients; 💜 1ml Ecothrive Trace 💜 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.6 PPM: 400 14.7.25: I watered with 1ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 containing the following nutrients; 💜 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.3 PPM: 373 16.7.25: I watered with 1ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 containing the following nutrients; 💜 1ml Ecothrive Trace 💜 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.5 PPM: 363 Thanks for checking in this week and hanging out 😊💚✌️🍃😁

D71. Week five of flower and the girls are simply doing their thing. I scouted the plants today and found thrips on the second girl. I was hoping the lacewings would have gotten them all by now, but no such luck. I'll give them a week before ordering another batch. For some reason, the thrips avoid the first girl. Visually, there's also a clear difference between the two girls, with the first girl being darker and having more buds. ------------------------------ D73. I brewed a short (6 hours) compost tea today consisting of worm castings, kelp meal, neem meal, humic and fulvic acid, rock dust, biochar, and molasses. After the brew, I added homemade Bokashi juice, which lowered the pH of the tea to 6.6. Each girl got 2.5 liters of tea (5% of pot volume.) I also did another light round of defoliation, down low on the plants. ------------------------------ D75. Each girl got 2.5 liters of water @ pH 6.5, with 5 ml of FFJ. The plants stretched SO MUCH after flipping them into flower that it's challenging for the light to penetrate the canopy, and it's pretty dark further down. I bought some LED grow light strips and installed them in the tent to provide additional side lighting. It's only 36 W of extra lighting, but I hope it will help to develop the numerous buds down low. I put the lights on the left side of the tent, around the first girl, since she has a lot more buds, but now that it looks like the concept works, I might get another set of lights for the right side of the tent. ------------------------------ D77. We've reached the end of the fifth week of flower, and all is well in the tent. Ahem, almost all since I still have the thrips to contend with, BUT I just put a bunch of Cucumeris predatory mites in the tent, so the war rages on. A friend suggested adding white cloth below the plants to reflect more light toward the lower buds. Sounds plausible, but I didn't have any fabric, so I went all ghetto by simply putting strips of kitchen paper on top of the scrog net. Not the most fantastic reflector material ever, but it's what I had at hand. Plus, it's easy to work with and costs next to nothing. I doubt it will make a big difference, but even a slight increase is still an increase, and I could see a visible difference in the amount of light hitting the lower canopy. Finally, each plant got 2.5 liters of water @ pH 6.3, with FFJ and Bokashi Juice. ------------------------------

como preventivo aplique tierra de diatomea via foliar. solo realice un apical por variedad de semilla ya que las otras aun según mi criterio les faltaba. se espera realizar la otra semana apical en las otras dos para dejar 2 sin manejo para comparar.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Jour42 ma plante entre bien en floraison je pratique sur elle une defolliation pour permettre aux têtes de prendre la lumière La floraison des plantes de cannabis La plante de cannabis passe par différentes étapes de vie avant de parvenir à la récolte. Ces étapes sont : la germination, la pré-croissance, la croissance et la floraison. Pour les autofloraisons il n'est pas nécessaire d'avoir de changer le cycle de lumière elle entre en floraison automatiquement voilà d'où elle tient son nom "d'autofloraison" L'origine de l'auto-floraison vient de la sous-espèce "cannabis sativa ruderalis" , qui à l'origine produit de très faibles niveaux de THC. C'est en croisant cette variété de marijuana avec d'autres qui produisent des niveaux de THC plus élevés qu'à vu le jour ce magnifique compromis que sont les variétés auto-fleurissantes avec des taux de THC très satisfaisants. En parallèle, cela a permis d'améliorer la production de ces variétés, qui initialement étaient exceptionnellement basse. Pour des résultats optimaux, en culture Outdoor (extérieur), je recommande que la germination des graines de marijuanaAuto-flo se fasse entre avril et août. En culture Indoor(intérieur), la photopériode idéale que ce soit pour la croissance comme pour la floraison est de 20h de lumière. N'oubliez pas que ces graines ne sont pas tributaires de la photopériode pour passer en floraison. Il est préférable d'utiliser des pots d'une capacité de 10 à 20L dès le début, étant donné que leur cycle de vie est réduit, les auto-flo n'ent pas besoin de plus de volume pour se développer. Vu sa petite taille (et la discrétion) elle fait l'objet d'un bon choix pour la culture de cannabis sur balcons. La première variété de Lowryder auto-floraison a été créé à partir de cannabis indica sativa croisé avec des génétiques de cannabis sativa rudelaris par la banque de graines de marijuana "The Joint Doctor". Puis vinrent la White Dwarf de "Buddha Seeds", la Roadrunnerde "Dinafem", l' Auto Stoned d' "Autofem", la Speed Devil de "Sweet Seeds" , la Maxi Gom de "Grassomatic", la Flash, la Gnomo de Kannabiaet bien d'autres. Jour42 defolliation (video) Avant toute chose n'oublions pas de bien désinfecter ses outils et bien ce laver les mains. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Jour44 Arrosage une fois sur 2 topmax de biobizz Jour46 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.8g par litre d'eau de feeding enhancer greenhouse. Jour47 léger arrosage. Jour48 léger arrosage

Ha sido un grow muy divertido, me ha gustado como ha quedado finalmente, una planta bajita, con muchas colas, algo finas pero bien prensadas y con mucha resina. Ha sido una de las plantas que mejor ha consumido los nutrientes durante todas las fases de cultivo. El aroma es bestial, tonos cítricos y a hachis . Pronto actualizo con notas de humo.