Dec 28 - Both plants are close to harvest. Had 5.5. hours of darkness after 24 hr period to prevent budrot developing. Also moved plants inside tent moreso, and closer to fans. Dec 28 - Watered healthy plant today at 2PM - I'll chop unhealthy plant tomorrow, so didn't water, instead inspected trichomes. Dec 28 - Unhealthy Plant is showing amber trichomes, but also clear - Unsure if I should chop tomorrow or not. Dec 29 - DAY 73 - CHOPPED - Trimmed larger fan leaves (accidentally trimmed a sugar leaf or two) and harvested to dry whole, upside down. I'm hoping for a half ounce per plant. Dec 19 - 11.50PM Trichome Calyx' were observed, there are new calyx' appearing. Calyx' are swelling. Dec 30 - Plant developing more senescence and calyx are swelling. Dec 30 - Trichomes are still clear, but I'm seeing some PM develop so I think I'll chop tomorrow morning. Dec 31 - Nice Senescence occurring, Happy to have left it this last day. Accidentally left temps up to 78F for a half hour. Dec 31 - Decided to push another week as per feedback from GD member. When watering I noticed she was perky after 3 days w. no water. Interesting and likely the frequency I'll continue watering at. Dec 31 - Watered at 9PM. Jan 1 - Removed small fan leaf with signs of PM at the base. This defoliation should help with airflow. Checked newly formed calyx' and they're clear enough not to document. Jan 2 - Buds are developing nicely, calyxes are noticably swelling nicely too. I see some green pistils appearing in the lowest buds. Clear Trichomes. Jan 3 - Watered at 8AM. Woke up to 90F temp. Unfortunately they'd been cooking for about an hour. Jan 3 - DRYING UPDATE - I'm seeing fluctuations in the drying room between RH 49% and 70%. As of 3.10PM @ 61RH after adding jars of water. I want to maintain this RH. Jan 3 - Senesence looking good, calyx' are continuing to swell. Will inspect trichomes tomorrow at latest.

Esa familia, actualizamos las northern light xL, hay una de las 3 que destaca del resto por tamaño y flores, pintan muy bien, se ve buen color y bastante vigorosas, tutelamos 1. Bajamos humedad y temperatura, a estas alturas estamos pensando en el siguiente proyecto con varias geneticas de zambezaseeds.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Week 11 - The buds are stretching and getting bigger. She is huge did not expect that and I was not prepare which can cost me in yield/quality but will see.

29.12.-4.1.25. This was the last week and my photos are from the end of this week (4.1.). Over all I have some things to notice: 1: I think my lights were too close to my plants. I found out, that the top Buds were a little bit smaller than the buds a little deeper. So I think I have to adjust this in an another round. 2: I hat too much small branches. it would have been better to cut them all of, and leave only the biggest on the plant. they don't smell as good as the bigger ones, and the bigger ones were not as good as they could be. 3: I need to feed with clear water the last week. 4: On the moment I turn off the lights I would do now things different. I should let the plant 3 Days in darkness in her pot. (and do a photo shooting) But after this I should chop the hole plant and put her in a watercan for one week. After that I should dry her completely as a hole plant longer and slower than I did this time. I think best could be 65%-55% humidity, so that the plant could be drying for about 14 days. This time I messed things up because I wanted to do a fresh frozen with the sugar leafes, but it didn't work. so I'll do it the next time just dry.

Well My friends gave me a bigger tent so I got a little more time to let them develop! I'm very ready to take them down just waiting a bit longer for a few more amber trichomes. I'm still feeding them ripen but i wish last week i'd given them a feed in addition too. They look nice in the new tent, there is loads more room, and while the lighting didn't go up as much as I'd like, They have a nice big fan oscillating on them now and room to stretch. ________________________________________________________________ I suppose I'm glad I waited. I wanted to take a few more pics and get one last video in! I'm def seeing a bit more amber in the trics and i think it will make em a bit better for these 2 extra waterings! Probably gonna chop them soon!!!!

I got my humidity under control. From now on there is only H2O without fertilizer. But I think my gorilla is a little too brown. I really hope it has to be that way. Otherwise all the other ladies are looking great.

🌿 Woche 4 – Vegetative Phase (27. Oktober – 2. November 2025) Nach drei Wochen stabiler Entwicklung ging es in Woche 4 in die entscheidende Aufbauphase. Die Pflanzen haben sich sichtbar verdichtet, die Kronen geschlossen, und die Spider Farmer SE3000 liefert bei 55 % Leistung (≈ 480 µmol/m²/s) gleichmäßiges Licht über die gesamte Fläche. Am 27. Oktober war dann der große Eingriff fällig: erstes Topping und leichte Entlaubung bei allen sechs Pflanzen. Das Ziel: strukturierter, flacher Wuchs – die Basis für das kommende LST-Training und ein gleichmäßiges Canopy. 🗓️ Chronologie Woche 4 27.10. ✂️ Erstes Topping + Entlaubung Alle 6 Pflanzen getoppt (oberste Nodie entfernt). Je 1–2 untere Blätter/Triebe entfernt. Keine Stresssymptome danach. 28.10. 🌱 Erholungsphase Blätter wieder aufgerichtet, neue Spitzen sichtbar. Kein Gießen. Licht 55 % @ 60 cm Abstand. 29.10. Kontrolle & Beobachtung Erde weiter getrocknet. Wurzeln an Topfböden sichtbar → Umtopf-Zeitpunkt erreicht. 30.–31.10. (geplant) 💡 Klima & Licht (Woche 4) 27.–29.10. 55 % 60 cm 25–26 °C 55–60 % Optimales vegetatives Klima, keine Hitzespitzen. 30.–31.10. 50 % 65 cm 24–25 °C 60–65 % Nach Umtopfen zur Stressminderung. 01.–02.11. 60–65 % 60 cm 25 °C 60 % Wieder Aufbau der Lichtintensität nach Erholung. 🌱 Strain-Layout / Pflanzenstatus Front L/R Cherry Poppers 🍒 Kompakt, kräftig, gleichmäßiger Austrieb nach Topping Bereit für LST ab 5.–6. Nov. Center-L (gelb) Karate Kit 🥋 Etwas gedrungener, dunkles Grün, kräftige Mitte Wuchs leicht langsamer, aber stabil. Center-R (terracotta) Lemon Orange 🍋 Größte Pflanze, sehr vital, breite Blätter Beim Umtopfen leicht tiefer setzen. Back L/R White Gorilla Haze ×2 🦍 Buschig, dichte Struktur, kräftige Stiele Leichte Mg-Symptome → Bittersalzgabe nach Umtopfen. 💧 Gieß- & Nährstoffplan (Übersicht Woche 4 + Vorschau) 24.10. Düngung (vor Woche 4) Orgatrex 2 ml/L 0,9–1,1 L Letztes Vorgießen in 5 L-Töpfen 27.–29.10. — — — Keine Bewässerung, Substrat trocknet für Umtopfen. 30.–31.10. Anwässerung Bactrex 1 g/L 0,8–1 L Nur zur Wurzelaktivierung, kein Orgatrex. 03.–04.11. Erste Nachdüngung Orgatrex 1,8 ml/L + Bittersalz 0,5 g/L (nur WGH) 1 L pH 6,2–6,4, langsames Angießen. 07.–08.11. Nur Wasser — 1–1,2 L Erhaltung der Bodenfeuchte, keine Zugabe. 🧠 Beobachtungen & Pflege Erholungsphase: 1–2 Tage nach Topping leicht verlangsamtes Wachstum, danach starke Triebneubildung. Bodenleben: aktiv, feine Myzelstrukturen sichtbar. Keine Mangelanzeichen: außer leichtem Mg-Bedarf bei White Gorilla Haze. LST: Beginn voraussichtlich 03.–06. November (sobald neue Triebe 4–5 cm lang sind). Entlaubung: keine weitere vor Mitte November. ✅ Fazit – Woche 4 (27. Oktober – 2. November) Diese Woche war der Übergang vom Aufbau zur Strukturphase. Das Topping am 27. Oktober hat den Wuchs geformt und die Basis für das spätere Training gelegt. Die Pflanzen zeigen kräftige Triebe, gesunde Farbe und aktives Wurzelwachstum. Mit dem Umtopfen zum Wochenende beginnt die letzte große Wachstumsphase der Vegi-Stage. Vitales, harmonisches Wachstum, starker Wurzeltrieb, perfekte Vorbereitung für den „großen Umzug“.

Week 5 of flower The buds are swelling nice. The aroma's are starting to smell real good. The blueberry pancake left in the back already got a really sweet blueberry smell. The other 2 blueberry pancakes are doing great to, Of the 4 they look the most mature The collie man kush is also doing good and the trichomes are starting to build up. Lets see what next week is gonna bring.

Day 16 : trichomes are starting to really show on newer leaves Day 18 : starting to smell really good & stretch is continuing. Cultivar might stretch more then average. Day 20 : Still stretching, nodal spacing is ok.

Day 34 this lady is running, I can see flowers getting bigger every day, smell started really really soon this time so I already had to add the Carbon Filter. I’d like to close the cycle in less then 80 days. It would be great First flowering fertilisation Ph 6.2 Ppm 631 Day 37 - 9 of flower 🌸 Started blooming fertilisation, I’m keep Giving all-in one from aptus, i think I lm substitute with super pk and I stop all in one. Ph 6.2 Ppm 731 As I’m growing an solito in a 9.2 lt pots with all mix nutrients I’m slowing down with all in one and just giving base feedings, I ll decide later if I should give super-pk for the next weeks Day 40, tomorrow will be feeding days. Sge’s going really well, resin is already showing up on flowers that are several as and colorfull, smell is already there 🤤 Tomorrow update with feedings parameters. Day 41 feeding day Aptus regulator 0,15ml/1 lt Aptus all in one 1,25ml/1lt Aptus Topbooster 0,3 ml Aptus enzym + 0,5 ml Calmag 0,3 ml /L Ph 6,18 Ppm 756 Let’s see

Всем привет друзья! Был в отпуске, ни до репортов было. Что могу сказать, разочервался я Fast buds. генетика попадается плохая, при чём беру разные сорта. Fast Buds Zkittlez был первый мой куст, когда только начинал гровить. Снял я тогда 120 сухого. Отложилось у меня положительное впечатление. И вот я снова решил поднять этот прекрасный сорт, в итоге получил мини куст. Всем добра и мира!

Im trying to help her recover but im not sure she will, shes on just water now

Flipped to flowering on these girls as the screens are now almost full across the 4x8 tent and we will still need to train them along the screens for the next 2-3 weeks. So working for a packed tent this time hopefully. Plants have been exploding in growth daily. Water was changed out and new water added with 3/4 Remo Flowering lineup and UC Roots at full strength. Smell is starting to get noticeable when you open the tent and is very pleasant.

As I was planning to harvest this week, I started flushing Mishka with PH 7.5 water and no nutrients as per guidelines.

Engorde weenooo engoorde real jajajajaja Bueno, pues buenas noticias dado que la población tan bestia de araña roja ha descendido a minimos! Por lo general ni veo ya, pero se que aún queda alguna, por ello, les meteré una limpieza mas con aceite de neem y jabón potásico, pero una sola mas, quizá esta noche o ya mañana. A partir de esta aplicación ya se acabo el uso de estos productos, y el siguiente lavado foliar que le haré será un té de canela, haré un concentrado hirviendo agua y con canela en polvo, filtrándolo para wue no quede residuo. Esto lo haré con intenciones antifungicas y de controlar un poco mas la humedad para mantener los bichos controlados.

Day 91 - No water for 6 days - White pistils apparent - Watered ONLY - Vibe: 😳 "What happens to a dream deferred? Does it dry up like a raisin in the sun?… Or does it explode?" — Langston Hughes

Fruity Pebbles autoflower is growing great. She just had her roots pruned, lst, and selective defoliation done on her. She is ready to go, and likely will start showing her first pistils soon. Thank you Medic Grow, and I Love Growing Marijuana. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g