We continue the flush! I’ll give them 2ml/l canna flush on next watering Purple tones appeared on dos si dos 33 ! Trichomes started to turn amber and buds are more denses ! Harvest day is for soon !!

Week 3 Flower (Bloom Week 3) – Daily Tasks Evening (Lights On) Check environment (temp 24–27°C, RH 55–60%). Inspect leaves and buds for pests, mold, or deficiencies. Water/feed (depending on medium): balanced bloom nutrients with slightly higher P and K. Ensure good airflow (oscillating fans). Adjust plant training (light defoliation if leaves block bud sites). Check for early signs of stretch finishing. Evening (Before Lights Off) Ensure irrigation is not too late in the cycle to avoid wet medium during dark period. 👉 In Week 3 bloom, the plants are finishing their stretch and starting to put more energy into forming bud sites. Main job is: Setting Scrog net 2layers ,Control environment (VPD, airflow) ,Support the plant with bloom nutrients.

(/) (°•°) 👍☘️🍃🍀

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Rien à faire cette plante pousse bien toute seule je lui donne de l'amour et Hesi Elle sent très bon et m'offre des futures têtes énormes Les trichomes sont bien laiteux je commence le rinçage la semaine prochaine

Day 11: Watered each plant with 0.1l with nuts 465 ppm, 987 us/cm, 0.9 EC Lights at 35% The strawberry banana seedlings was very late in coming out of the ground, I had to give the helmet a hand to get it out, through 2 or 3 drops of water. One of the seeds is not good, it grew poorly, I put a Gorilla Cookies to replace it, also from fadtbuds. Let's see how it goes Day 12: The strawberry bananas are recovering well, one of the seeds is starting to get normal leafs, sounds perfect Day 13: Watered each plant with 0.25L with nuts 480 ppm, 1027 us/cm, 1 EC Lights at 50% Day 16: Watered each plant with 0.3L with nuts 668 ppm, 1423 us/cm, 1.4 EC Performed foliar callmag while the lights were off

This is exactly the 🇲🇦 morroccan 🇲🇦 way of sifting resin from kief. Traditionally, apart the hand rubbing method, dry sifting through a mesh is the most used way to obtain resin, from 🇦🇫 Afghanistan 🇦🇫 or 🇳🇵Nepalese 🇳🇵 Mountains to 🇲🇦 Morocc 🇲🇦 Rif passing through Bekaa valley in 🇱🇧Lebanon 🇱🇧. The average size of meshes used vary from 90 to 180 microns and are mostly made by silk and for this reason uneven. I think the most productive ways to sift are Dry Ice and  rotating pollinator + CO2, I've tried a DIY pollinator built by a friend and it can reach up to 20/25% of resin extracted at 120 microns and 15% at 90 microns. But smell and taste don't reach that traditionally extracted but this is another story. Morroccan way is good compromise between a stashbox or more evolute methods. It requires less than 10 dollar of expenses. You need: a basin or pot  without handles a heavy-duty plastic bag that contains the basin a pair of chopsticks a good 120 microns net an elastic band tape Kif or trim q.s. Here is the link where I buy my meshes. Very high quality, customable size and material (steel or nylon) and length and very kind vendor on AliExpress https://a.aliexpress.com/_uwfQzq Drum for 3 minutes. .....perhaps you will find that you have an innate talent as a drummer, throw the shit away and put your head right......

Week 5 of flowering It’s growing 😂 There’s not much to do, keeping an eye on the leaves helps me to tell if it still needs some nutrients or just water. I’ve been able to readjust the lack of Cal on 2 plants (Strawberry Kush) unfortunately 2 others plants (1 Super Skunk and 1 Banana Kush) were too deficient to catch back. I wish the Super Skunks were a bit more Indica. They are typically Sativa phenotypes, at 80% I would say, second time it happens in 3 years with this batch (ART. 1520007 , B19). Normally they’re perfectly balanced and produce plenty of massive colas in a very short period. 1 of the White Gorilla Haze is making proper dark purple flowers, it’s a very nice pheno. I will add more bud porn on next week 😊 (I’m looking for a job in the Cannabis industry as Master Grower, Mineralogist, Quality Control)

Buds have really filled in over the weeks and I'm guessing another solid week to finish this girl off! Excited for the pollination done to certain branches to keep this lineage going!

Day 21: From day 10 to 21 I couldn't take care of the plants because of private reasons, I asked my friend to take care of the plants and he didn't do a good job! He should had asked me or alerted me when he saw mayor problems, not just saying a little bit of light green or yellow. As you can see, we have alot of yellowing beneeth the plants, different sizes and even got some burnt leafs indicate that he didn't water on time. Did some run-off checks and saw many various values😓 Ph between 6.8-7.5 and EC between 1 to 2. The PH should had been 5.8-6 and EC at this stage 1.8+ since they need alot of nutrients because cocos soil doesn't have any. Because of this shit, they have been underfed, burnt, stress and more. Not ideal for autoflowers. Even the reservoir from humidifier was empty, indicating that it hasn't been filled for days!! Also he didn't sorted the plants out, there are always spots that get dryer faster or stay more wet. Get more light or less. Therefore it is wise to change spots of your plants all the time, I call it dancing. Your plants will grow more equally. If you look at the bigger plants, this should had been the size of all the plants sadly. They now look like they are in end of week 2 instead of week 3 and the bad plants end of week 1 😕 I did some defolation on some plants on the lower area. Roots start to show underneeth the pots, which is really good. I putted the bad plants in left under corner, Lets hope I can still nurse them. I still have 1-2 weeks to fix this before it goes into flowering, lets hope they will still grow double in size, otherwise this will be a lower rewarding grow.

Started flushing the blackberry on the right and the purple lemonade the other blackberry and gorilla cookies I reckon will start flush next week and the strawberry banana and dawgs will probably be another 2 weeks before flush .. all stink all look good, one dawg has something going on but I'm not to worried, they are the frostiest stickiest buds I've seen tbh,.. roll on next week 👌

I'm not happy with the overall harvest...it produced some good tasty smoke due to fine nutes and a wonderfull strain but i fu**ed it up by using a very bad soil...growth was very slow and also lost like 25g due to budrot/mold...again my fault as i set up ventilation the wrong way (RH was good but some buds didn't get enough airflow) Again i learned alot of things and got 275g of good, great smelling smoke...so not that bad...but could be much better 🙂

A brown leaf revealed the moldy core of the bud. Based on this sign, I harvested most of the plant. otherwise the Plant did grow well and has some terps leaning to the sour, limone side. had to throw away about 8G modly stuff from main colar. Seems to be about 30-40g left without mold.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

I had to harvest both sbc.. they produced seeds caused by too high EC in the Coco. The EC of the GP was even higher but she seems to handle it better and performs normal. A EC of 1.8 in the Coco was too high for the sbc. EC of the GP was 2.4. I flushed the GP, it was now possible since the sbc wasnt there anymore and therefor was no danger of getting the stacked pizza boxes wet which would let the sbc sink down like in mud. GP will be harvested in two weeks and right after that i will start a new diary with 3x sbc. I then can flush probably and will not run into this problem again.

Well, well, well, well, for being my very first exprerience in indoors i've seen it very easy, the results were not spectacular, but they are /- what i was expecting. For being the first i think it ended up very well and i have learned too much. I'm happy with de decision of growing auto strains and 1 euro seeds to do my incursion to indoors. For initiating, auto strains are an excelent choice as they don't need too many care to grow them. If you leave them, you will have a good plant, if you expend a bit of time on them (just a bit), they can became awesome plants. Now i'm going to test with photo-period strains, yesterday night the cotyledeons of 2 Dinafem Gorilla Glue and 1 Strain Hunters Money Maker were out, the other Money is still in. Soon i will start this Gorilla Vs. Money Diary (with better photo equipment and lights) . Green Cheers to everyone!!!!! ***** Bueno para ser mi primera experiencia con un armario en indoor lo he visto bastante sencillo, los resultados no son espectaculares, pero si están dentro de mis cábalas. Para haber sido la primera yo diría que ha ido bastante bien y he aprendido un montón. Me alegro haber escogido una genética auto y unas semillas de 1 euro para haber hecho la primera prueba. Para iniciarse las genéticas auto son excelente pues no necesitan de cuidados ni control de tiempos. Si las dejas, te saldrán como el breeder haya decidido desarrollar su genética, si las cuidas un poco (no mucho) te darán mejores resultados. Para mi ha sido una buena iniciación, ahora voy a probar con foto-dependientes, ayer noche salieron los cotiledones de 2 Gorilla Glue de Dinafem y 1 de una Money Maker de Strain Hunters, la otra money aún no ha salido. Pronto iniciaré el diario Gorilla Vs Money (con mejor equipo de fotografía e iluminación) - Saludos a todos!!000

Hi! Thanks for checking out my Royal Dwarf grow! Please comment on how healthy you think the plant is or any thoughts. In less than 2 weeks I have learned so much from you guys and i want to make a point of thanking you as this medicine allows me to live what I would consider a normal day to day life! :) So... Beginning week 2 and from the first few pictures and videos I think the plant is getting healthier, Getting a ph meter this week also, will probably resolve any issues I think I'm having. Day 7/8 I was going to switch from the Vitalink Plantstart + Canna Rhizotonic schedule to Canna A, B, Rhizotonic and Cannazym. I have not gotten around to doing so yet as I think I've been overwatering the plant. stopped watering and started using the spray bottle to keep the moisture up. will water with the new nutrients once the plant has dried out a bit. Day 9: Transplanted from a 1L to a 19L/5Gallon, the top half of the 1L container was dry and had what looks like well developed roots and the bottom half was wet and the roots were hanging out when transplanting. I definitely should have let it dry out more. Day 10: Rhino pro 200/600 Carbon filter arrived and it's the 1100cfm/overpowered version as I read it was better to get a filter with a better CFM rating than what your fan can move. The fan is an Isomax 900cfm or is it m3/hr ? I added a short video after the pics so you can get a fairly good view of the setup. I got 5m acoustic ducting and connected it up as best I could with the space I had. I Was covered in rock wool, didn't have wire cutters and had to go buy some to finish the job 😅. Talk about a nightmare! I left 1mtr spare ducting for the intake fan in future grows. I think it's worth mentioning that the 6 fans on the back of my grow light are louder than the filter/ducting/fan/ducting (in order). Noise level of light and fan combo is between a really expensive/good quality bedroom fan and a hairdryer as a comparison. As I don't have my intake fan yet Im using passive intake and my fan has a 3 speed controller so I have it on speed 1 and there is negative pressure. Finally i mixed up the canna nutrients and changed ph from 7 to 6, I'm not sure what's ideal for autos but I read that anywhere between 5.8 and 6.3 is good for autos? Let me know! Day 11 (update) As I have now realised how to edit my weeks in the diary I will start doing so! Read that a fluctuating PH is good between 5.5-6.5 so I'm gonna stay at ph 6 and let it do its thing. The plant seems to like this a lot more than ph7 although it is still stressed from transplanting (1ltr-19ltr) it's still growing new leaves but growth appears slower. Finally after a few cold showers I have recovered from being covered in rock wool! (thank god😂) also I started a RQS Quick One as a backup for the dwarf and RQS Fast Eddy as Im eager to see if medical marijuana has a better effect on my depression, anxiety and sleep problems than regular high thc low cbd strains. Check out my profile (JuicyFruit) to see my diaries for these strains! Day 13- my dwarf still seems stressed from the transplant, its growing some new leaves slowly but is still drooping from transplant. gonna be a dwarf-dwarf by the sounds of it! 😆 and i was doing some research on optimal hang heights for my Phlizon "3000w" COB LED, it seems that 40 inches is good to start from. i also read another users opinion that the switch on the fixture labelled VEG&BLOOM is mixed up with the other switch that is labelled STRONGER. The VEG&BLOOM switch is LEDs along with IR. (i read that the IR is probably further stressing my transplanted dwarf) and the STRONGER switch is COBs. i took a minute to think about this but after realizing that the plants can probably handle the COBs (STRONGER) at the right distance i may aswell use them for veg and switch the LEDs and the COBs on 1 or 2 weeks before flowering for full flower power! after reading all that i went straight over and switched the LEDs off and put the COBs on. il post pictures in the morning to show how the plants reacted. fingers crossed people! Please comment on anything you think i could improve on or any advice to help this plant grow better as it is much appreciated! Peace! Day 13 Update: took some photos and it likes the COBs, although they are very hot combined with a sunny day reaching high temps of 29c. turned the fan up and opened another passive intake on the tent. finally im going to get some calmag and a oscillating fan for the leaves and hot spots in tent :)

MY NIGHTMARE WEEK Okay so had a really bad week with the girls ended up over using on nutes I believe Any advice on how to maintain the girls to harvest I think I've got the problem sorted for now but anything else my girls are not gonna pull threw

🌱 Seguimiento – Última semana de crecimiento (cultivo desde semilla) Estamos en un cultivo con 10 plantas desde semilla: 4 plantas de Humboldt Seeds 6 plantas Permanent Marker – Philosopher Seeds Durante esta última semana de crecimiento hemos aumentado la dosis de fertilizantes siguiendo la tabla de B’cuzz Coco de Atami. Seguimos regando con un pH estable entre 5.9 y 6.0. 💧 Aditivos añadidos al riego Hemos incorporado también: Atazyme, para ayudar a la descomposición de raíces muertas y mejorar la absorción. Coco Booster Uni, para estimular el sistema radicular y el vigor general. Todo de nuestra marca de confianza: Atami. 💡 Ajustes en el cultivo Ajustamos la distancia del LED para optimizar la intensidad lumínica. Comenzamos a realizar un ligero croping en las plantas más altas para igualar el dosel antes de floración. 🌿 Estado de las plantas Las 4 plantas de Humboldt están respondiendo muy bien por ahora. Las Permanent Marker se muestran algo más delicadas. Puede deberse a: Posible bloqueo de calcio/magnesio Diferente sensibilidad al pH O simplemente fenotipos más exigentes Aunque sigamos una tabla, está claro que no todas las plantas comen igual. Incluso la cantidad de luz que recibe cada una puede hacer que unas se estresen y otras no. Reflexión Esto es lo bonito de cultivar desde semilla: cada genética y cada fenotipo siguen su propio patrón de crecimiento. Aquí empieza realmente la observación y la selección. 📸 Próxima actualización: últimos días de crecimiento y preparación para el cambio a floración.