Turned off IR @ nights Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is far superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison to synthetic delivery, which causes plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing, regenerative cultivation. ATP is king above all else when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" (active) nutrient uptake. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. If that makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic methods because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversions. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. Corporate interest sells you the other 3-5% NPK & all the rest in RATIOS! Why not throw the 3-5% in a pot, and focus your energy on the other 95-97%? Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

So whats new?, well recently, as of 08/23/23 got my water chiller, which is A BLESSING, honestly the constant bottle changing was driving me NUTS, not only that, i had to use my roomates fridge (in secret) and mine to keep enough water bottles to last for a day, and most of the time it was just not enough so water temps were gettin all the way up to 90, a pain in my assholes that seems to be over. great success. have seen some strange thigns going on with the water, such as EC level that keeps going up, which i think it was realetd to the plants drinking more water than nutrients and don't know if it was becasue of the temps as I'm very new to the hydro space, but will soon be paying 12 buckaroos to the youtuber that got me started in hydro, shotout to "How Weed Grow at Home - Indoor Cannabis Tutorials", So far i've been folowing his Hydro guide to the theet, so thats why I'll be subbing to his personalized patreon. Here's a small log of how water's been in the last 6 days. 17-08-23 - Ph, 5.85 - 29.2 C - 49ppm (new water, i used purified) 18-08-23 - Ph 7.10 - 30.01 C - 70 PPM (water bottles in place) 19-08-23 - Ph 6.69 - 26.9 C - 96 PPM (14 hrs after first feed) 20-08-23 - Ph 5.89(been lowering it) - 25.8 C - 125 PPM 21-08-23 - Ph 6.31 - 28 C - 127 PPM (here i noticed EC going up so started taking notes) 22-08-23 - Ph 6.36 - 28.3 C - 137 PPM - EC 274 (added more water to the reservoir) -Ph 5.9 (ph down 1 ml) - 141 PPM - 28.3 C - EC 282 AnnnnnnnnnNDDDD today is the 23 of august and levels after chiller are as follows: - Ph 6.31 - 145 PPM - 23.2 C - EC 290 + So some things that will come, the viparspectra lights and will soon lst them, also i might change the reservoir as EC seems to keep rising.

Merhaba ; Gecen Haftaya gore toparladilar bu tohum markasini ilk deniyorum.

Day 35 and I can finally see them putting weight back on after the light situation. Debating on top dressing one more time or not, we’ll see in a couple of days.

Cuarta semana de vegetación y he notado varios cambios en Kukulkán de la izquierda la veo con las hojas algo caídas a comparación a la de la derecha, que siempre está vigorosa siendo que riego con la misma agua y los mismos cuidados. Hoy toco riego sin alimento, pero con calmag para subir el ec del agua purificada y subir la cantidad de calcio, magnesio y otros nutrientes al agua , veremos qué tal funciona. A una semana aprox. de pasar a floración compré la línea orgánica de wonderland y me gustaría empezar a usarlos en floración, mi pregunta es si la planta tolera el cambio de alimento si alguien sabe, puede dejar su comentario 🙏🏽

I always let my soil/coco get almost completely dry so the roots can search for water before I feed. This is day four ,of week two, for flowering!

Good day! The Royal Gorilla - is amazingly strong plant, a lot of branches covered with the flowers. And the most amazing for me - is the aroma. Really... the aroma is so FRUITY and sweet. For now it is Number 1 aroma for me. Big bucket of fruits.:) So nothing to say about the vegetation- there was no issue at all. The Gorilla likes all feeding and watering. I will start adding some PK from next week. Also the flowering begun very fast and right now I have 2 more autoflowers with the same birthdate :) the Gorilla is champ. Please check the pictures. i will make more this week - the flowering is most beautytime to make some photos.

Day 5 since time change to 12/12. Hey everyone ☺️. Finally the time has come :-) The lady moved into the flower tent on January 6th, 2021 😁. The day before, of course, a cutting was taken 👍. In the flowering tent, the distance between the plant and the lamp is 40 cm so that she can get used to the strength of the lamp. After 3-5 days I go down to 30 cm. This week it was watered twice with 1 l per plant. GHSC enhancers were added to one wash :-). Flower fertilizer will only be added in 12-16 days as soon as the first blossoms are there :-). Otherwise the tent was completely cleaned and the humidifier refilled. For the next few days I have filled fresh osmosis water in canisters again :-). Next week I will remove the bottom shoots so that the energy doesn't end up going into small popcorn buds 😉. There is nothing more to report this week and I wish you all a lot of fun with the update 😀. Stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻🍀 You can buy this Strain at https://www.barneysfarm.com/blue-cheese-34 Type: Blue Cheese ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blueberry X Original Cheese 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8

Engrais flo plus green sensation

16.2.25: I decided to check out the lower canopies of all plants to see if I need to get rid of any foliage. I did get rid of a few small branches and leaves. However, whilst I was doing this, I saw more garden pegs from my LST remaining. There were about 6 or more in Pink Mist alone. Additionally, on Watermelon, there were some left in, too. I'm so annoyed to see that because the plants are really stretching, and I could've potentially disrupted this by leaving the pegs in for all this time without realising it. 🤞 that I haven't compromised things too much. We'll see. I watered today with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 containing the following nutrients; ♡ .8g Green Leaf Nutrients PK booster ♡ .5g Ecothrive Biosys I ordered quite a few things for the garden. I got Greenleaf Nutrients Sea K(elp) and Mega Crop Parts A+B. To go with their PK Booster I got last month. I'm excited to try it all together. Next run, maybe just using these. We'll see how it goes. 18.2.25: The plants are going crazy for water! Everything is getting used right up so fast! Today, I decided to add some more Black Strap Molasses to add some carbs and other micronutrients. I'll add the jar with the label in the photos section above. I watered a very small amount to each plant. What I put in: ♡ Black strap molasses 150g ♡ 2g Sea K(elp) Greenleaf nutrients. I dissolved everything in 4ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4. 19.2.25: I received the majority of the garden purchases that I made. I'm still waiting for the Ecothrive Life Cycle. I wanted to top dress, but it's been delayed unfortunately. I am using my Greenleaf nutrients products which I bought on Amazon. I got the Mega Crop 2 part system Part A and Part B. I have the Sea K(elp), and the bud explosion PK booster. I really wanted to get some of their sweet candy asking read many positive reviews. Unfortunately, for me, this is unavailable to buy currently. So that's a little disappointing. I needed to do a good watering so when my nutes were delivered today, I got excited 🤗 I watered 2ltrs of dechlorinated water per plant, PH'd to 6.4, containing the following nutrients: ♡ 1g Mega Crop Part A ♡ 1g Mega Crop Part B ♡ .5g Sea K(elp). The plants drank this up within a few hours. I'm going to try and hold off on watering in hopes that my Ecothrive Life Cycle will arrive so I can top dress and water it in then. 20.2.25: My Ecothrive Life Cycle arrived yesterday, and the plants are ready for their top dress and a good watering in. I have some Biobizz Light Mix, Canna Coco,and perlite. I'm going to use this as a base to mix my amendments in. I'm going to fill my 5 gallon bucket with about 4.5 gallons of my top dress mix. I will distribute this across 6, 4-5 gallon pots. Then I will water in well with Greenleaf nutrients Mega Crop Parts A+B and Sea K(elp). I've made a crude attempt to video mixing my top dress. Don't listen to the audio. lol, my YouTube didn't stop playing whilst I recorded this 😂 So anyway, I added the following amendments to the above base mix of 4.5 gallons; ♡ 3 TBSP Ecothrive Life Cycle ♡ 3 TBSP Vitalink Bat Guano ♡ 3 TBSP Ecothrive Charge ♡ 1 TBSP RHS Mycorrhizal Fungi granules ♡ 6 TBSP Ground Cinnamon.

3.23.2024: Start of week 10. Day 60 from sprout. Moving along nicely. Did some defoliation to open everything up. Main cola is legit. One of the side branches is almost as big as the main cola. Bought a loupe and trichomes are just slight turning milky but only in a few spots. Some purpling but def not to the level of some of the other pheno's i've seen which is kinda a bummer. 3.24.2024: Day 61. Fed 1/4 strength nutes. 96oz of 6.5ph. Got stoned last night and did some more defoliation. 3.25.2024: Day 62. ZZZzzzZZzzz 3.26.2024: Day 63. 96oz at 6.5ph. Runoff ppm at 730. 3.27.2024: Da 64. ZZzzzZZz 3.28.2024: Day 65. just the tiger bloom and cal mag today at 1/4 strength. 96oz at 6.49ph. 3.29.2024: Day 66. End of week 9. Trichomes starting to get milky. Maybe 70/30?

I harvested my pollen sacks plant looks healthy at this point I dont feed till harvest just water every 3-4 days. think o got 21 more days to go b4 harvest but until then I'm just checking out my trichomes so that I dont harvest to late .....one love and dont forget weed is love so share the love with those you know .......

Holky jsou ve finále, teď je ještě propláchnu a půjdou mi dělat radost :) Palice jsou o trochu tmavší než minule, voní stále silně a lepí snad i jen při pohledu, listy trochu zežloutly, řekl bych normální průběh před sklizní :)

All going well, consuming a lot of water compared to my previous 2 grows, which I expect is a good sign. For my first grow I just used Blumat cones. This caused the roots to congregate on the cones and they subsequently got nutrient damage, the grow went okay but water consumption was low as blumats can only deliver 200ml per day and I only had 3 in place. For my 2nd grow I manually watered top down and consumption was around 1l in the mid to late stages. With the autopot used in this grow water usage is a lot higher. I've noted 2l a day but it's possibly higher as it's harder to measure. Perhaps it's purely the genetics but anecdotally it suggests I was under watering before. I very much recommend the autopots for the lazy gardener!

Hello everyone hope you staying cool Cause the weather is over 100 degree and everything is drying and dying. We really need some rain! Anyone with the heat wave I trying keep this gals water up. The biggest one drink water like no tomorrow, well both of them. I give them a tea liquid compost 3.11.11 of organic fertilizers. Just to keep up with the flowering stages she using up a lot nutritions and I’m glad that I was on top of my game with these outdoors grow. Not bad for novice first timer. My family love them. I’m keep in the sun as thst will help with resins production and the bees are doing a fine job pollen them.

Estuvimos un poco desaparecido por andar un poco desmotivado pero aquí vamos nuevamente, las nenas van bastante bien en la semana 8 la cambiamos a maceta de 3.5L y aprovechamos de darle GREAT WHITE SHARK, la técnica que usamos es de amarrar el central ya que le hicimos supper cropping y apical a nuestro central, amarramos el apical que le hicimos super cropping y le dimos fuerza a varios brazos. Para ir controlando la altura de los brazos le hicimos poda a pical a los que estaban tomando más altura y así poder ir equiparando los brazos. La verdad que no se cuantos brazos tengo que sacar y aun me quedan unas 4 semanas para poder desocupar mi armario de floración y poder pasarlas a flora, así que intentaremos hacer una muy buena estructura antes de pasarlas a floración. La defoliación la aplico cada vez que saco foto ósea semanal y trato de ir manteniendo de a 4 nudos o 6 nudos La alimentación se mantiene igual lo que si no se si lo dije pero: Rhizotonic: Lo estoy usando solo en trasplantes y cuando hago alguna poda. Cannazym: Lo estoy usando 1 vez por semana. Orca y Myco Chum: Lo estoy usando 1 vez cada 1-2 semanas Alimentación diaria: Calmag, silicia, supervit y canna coco a+b Alimento a cada una con 250-350 cc de solución, 2 horas que encienden las luces y 2 horas antes de que se apaguen. Gracias a esta receta no eh tenido tanta variedad en mi runoff y las nenas se mantienen muy sanas. Saludos

10/28 This bird is a rockin! Just watching her go! 1-11 Day 41 of flower. Still just water and rotating, to try and even the light.