RQS Amnésia haze auto

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters First of all, thanks to James from Royal Queen Seeds for allowing me to do this grow I remind you that I am simultaneously growing 9 pots of 10 and 11 liters in a box designed for 4 and that I only use the bare minimum of equipment necessary for a proper grow at the lowest possible price EQUIPMENT CONFIGURATION Box 80×80×160 Lamp led Lampwin 300 watts ×2 Clip fan 15 watts Xiaomi Deerma humidifiers 5L Hygrometer thermometer Extractor PROFAN 107 m3/h - 100 Programmable electronic socket ×2 1 black geotextile pot 10 liters (RQS) Green house feeding enhancer Green house feeding biobloom Green house feeding biogrow Biobizz lightmix substrate Wire and cutting pliers Microscope Small precision scale GROW STEP BY STEP I first germinated my seed with the easy start from Royal Queen Seeds and I am pleasantly surprised because honestly the success rate is very high (17 seeds out of 19) easy to use and very effective. Once the seedling is out and about 2 or 3 centimeters tall, I gently take it and place it directly into its final pot. I recommend pots ranging from 10 liters to 15 liters for autoflowers grown indoors. The pot will have been previously prepared (video in diary) with 30 grams of greenhouse feeding biobloom and 30 grams of greenhouse feeding biogrow, which is the equivalent of 3 grams per liter of substrate. I then place the seedling in its final pot, cover it a bit with soil, lightly compact it, and water to keep the substrate moist, no more. I place my 300-watt LED lamp about 90 centimeters from the seedling with a light cycle of 24/24 for a week. At the beginning of week 2, the light cycle will switch to 20/4 thanks to a timer because for me, this is the light cycle that offers the best yield for an autoflower. Day 1: light watering Day 2: light watering Day 3: the seedling starts to be more vigorous, setting up ventilation to increase its root mass and light watering Day 4: watering with one and a half liters of water pH 6.3 to which I added 0.9 grams of greenhouse feeding enhancer (so 0.6 grams per liter of water) Day 5: no special technique Day 6: no special technique Pleasantly calm week with no problems or apparent deficiencies May the force be with you!

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters For this week 2, no techniques practiced, after setting my light cycle to 20/4 I just monitored that the humidity stays at a rate of 70%. I find that the 20/4 cycle is the one that offers the best yield for autoflowering. I also did a light watering until day 10 because the fact that the autoflowerings are transplanted into their final pots increases the risk of overwatering the substrate. 🤐 To mitigate this risk, it is preferable to water with 10 or 20 centiliters of water at pH 6.3 during the first 10 days of the seedling. On day 11, I water my pot normally with a quarter of its volume in water (for a 10-liter pot, 2.5 liters) still with a pH of 6.3, I add to this water 0.6 grams of greenhouse feeding enhancer per liter of water. 👍 Enhancer is a mix of humic acids, seaweed extracts, strains of Trichoderma harzianum, and Bacillus subtilis. It increases the vitality of the plant, improves nutrient absorption, and enhances soil quality. 👍 I will do a similar watering in 2 weeks May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters! For this week, I don't plan on any special techniques, just some watering. I'm taking advantage of this relatively calm week to remind you of what I think is the best technique for watering an autoflowering plant. By following these simple tips, you'll achieve optimal results throughout your grow: Cannabis is a plant that doesn't like to receive light watering continuously. It's imperative to water it in large quantities, then wait for the soil to be well dry before watering again! To calculate the amount of water needed for each plant, follow this rule: The volume of water to give during each watering should represent at least about a quarter of the pot's volume!! Examples: for a 1L pot, give 0.25L of water at each watering; for a 4L pot, give 1L of water at each watering; for a 12L pot, give 3L of water at each watering; for a 30L pot, give 7.5L of water at each watering! etc... To give such a volume of water, it is often necessary to water in two (or even three) times, slowly and evenly over the entire surface. Place good saucers under the pots; they will fill with water that will rise into the pot by capillarity in less than a day. It is also very important to use good quality potting soil, with good water retention capacity but also ensuring good drainage (it should contain perlite, and/or coco, etc.) You now need to wait a few days while regularly lifting the pots with your arms. When they become very light again, you can water once more!! Indeed, since water weighs much more than soil, a pot soaked with water weighs several times the weight of a pot of a plant ready to be watered. With a little practice, you'll quickly learn to lift your pots to know when a plant is thirsty. It's a technique that is both very easy and very effective, and can be applied to all potted plants! By watering this way, in general, you should water your plants every 3 to 6 days. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters! For this week 4 on day 23, my plant is 17 centimeters tall and its sixth node is appearing, so I decide to practice LST on my plant. For this, I use galvanized wire that I plant directly into the substrate, being careful not to damage the roots because let's not forget that what grows above also grows below. On day 17, I spray a solution made of a teaspoon of liquid black soap diluted in a liter of water as a preventive measure against potential pests. I adjust my LST according to the growth of my plant... For me, this is how I proceed, but just a reminder of the LST technique: When to start applying the LST technique Many growers start manipulating as soon as the plants have between 3 and 6 nodes or a pair of leaves. During this first stage of growth, the still flexible trunk can be bent without the risk of breaking, even though as the plant develops, it will become increasingly difficult to bend. We can continue to guide the growth of the branches throughout the entire cultivation, even during flowering, which at this stage represents a great advantage over pruning, which is not recommended at all once the formation of buds begins, as this will stress the plant and delay the harvest. How to apply the LST guiding technique If we are careful, the natural flexibility of cannabis fibers allows us to bend their trunk and branches with relative ease, even during the flowering of the plants. By using a thin rope, we can tie the tip of the plant to the base of the pot, for example, or to a stake that we have planted in the substrate. We will carefully bend the trunk and secure it with the rope; from there, we can gradually increase the tension of the rope, a little more each day, until we achieve the desired position. Be attentive to the plant's reaction, try not to apply too much pressure on the rope, and remember that the flexibility of the branches can vary from one plant to another. To achieve better results, just follow a few simple rules. First, we need to choose a thin rope but not too thin so as not to injure the trunks as they grow and become thicker. We can use soft plastic hooks or any other flexible material to avoid damaging the plants. Especially indoors, using colored plastic cords (see @Silky's diaries) is very practical for easily seeing the ties and facilitating work amidst the network formed by the ropes, stakes, nets, or supports we have in the cultivation. Of course, in outdoor cultivation, especially in guerrilla growing, we will do just the opposite and use materials that are colored to not attract attention so that our garden remains discreet. To minimize stress on the plants, it's best to perform these manipulations in the evening or just after the indoor lights go out, allowing them to recover during the night. Normally, the next day we can observe how the tips of the branches we bent rise again towards the light source. I combine an apex pinch with LST; this will allow me to have a more uniform canopy, thus better light penetration and consequently a better yield. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 33 defoliation Day 34 watering with 0.5ml of topmax from biobizz I’m keeping an eye on humidity and watering as usual. I practice an Apex pinch which will allow me to have a more homogeneous canopy, thus better light penetration and consequently a better yield. A little reminder about Apex pinching: Pinching cannabis plants Close to the apex trimming principle, this technique has several advantages, the main one being to preserve the central bud of the plant, for maximum production and quality. Pinching cannabis plants Apex pinching (the top of the plant) simply involves gently pinching the stem of the topmost node of the plant, between the thumb and index finger, until you feel the fiber crush under your fingers with a characteristic little crunch sound. If the available space on the stem of the topmost node doesn’t allow you to comfortably place your fingers, you should pinch the node below instead. Pinching will significantly slow down the vertical growth of the plant while stimulating the development of secondary branches, thus giving the plant a bushy shape. The plant will take a few days to repair this pinch, forming a knot at that spot, and will then continue its growth normally. The pinching can then be repeated if necessary, on the newly formed next node, as well as on any secondary branches that might exceed the apex. Pinching is therefore an excellent technique for achieving a nice uniform green wave-type canopy. By regularly pinching the apex of the larger plants in your space during the growth phase and at the beginning of flowering (stretch), you will easily obtain plants of uniform height in full bloom, which will facilitate cultivation and increase the final production, especially if you are simultaneously growing multiple marijuana varieties. With a bit of practice, pinching can be done as quickly as effectively. In case of too violent pinching that results in a torn apex, it will simply produce the same results as a classic apex trimming, which won’t be dramatic. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters! I'm doing a light defoliation to allow better light penetration to the lower apices. What is defoliation? AMATEUR GROWERS, BE CAREFUL, BUT DON'T BE AFRAID Defoliation involves removing leaves from indoor cannabis plants to increase the final yield. The amateur grower must be vigilant when starting to apply this pruning technique. Despite the endless debate between those who advocate for this technique and those who disparage it, there’s no reason an amateur shouldn’t give it a try to see if it suits them or not. HOW TO DEFOLIATE Whether you are trimming the leaves or branches of cannabis plants, it’s best to use a sterile pair of scissors that feels comfortable in your hand. Pulling leaves off by hand lacks finesse and often accidentally results in tearing layers of a stem along with the leaf. The main goal of defoliation is to allow better light penetration and promote the production of larger buds. Shade-casting fan leaves should be removed. Trimming the main stem and/or secondary shoots is not defoliation. The golden rule when giving your plants a refresh is to start with the largest and broadest nutrient leaves, trimming from the bottom up. It’s important to remove leaves strategically and not randomly. Also, keep in mind that you should limit your refresh to approximately 10 to 20% of the total leaves on your plant. It’s very easy to get carried away during trimming and end up with bald plants. Excessive leaf trimming will hinder photosynthesis and stunt your plants. WHEN TO DEFOLIATE It’s quite rare to apply defoliation as the sole technique to achieve a high yield. Leaf trimming is generally associated with other pruning and training methods for better yield, such as topping, FIMming, LST, manifolding, supercropping, and ScrOG. Growers using the ScrOG method will need to remove all lower growth as well as leaves and stems that are under the net. Cannabis plants can be defoliated as soon as they transition from the seedling phase to the vegetative growth phase. However, it is recommended that amateur growers allow the plants 1 to 2 weeks of vegetative growth before tackling their defoliation. Additionally, some strains are more sensitive to pruning than others and will therefore be more stressed by leaf trimming. Closely monitor your plants' behavior after pruning. A recovery period of at least 3 to 7 days before resuming defoliation is strongly recommended to avoid too much stress on the plants. Growers can also defoliate during the flowering phase, which will allow the plant's energy to be focused on producing buds while limiting shade and excess moisture. Nevertheless, it’s important not to defoliate too late, as it may unnecessarily harm your plants. THE ADVANTAGES OF DEFOLIATION Obviously, the number one advantage of defoliation is the increased yield potential of this pruning technique for all types of cannabis, from photoperiod to autoflowering varieties. It’s no secret that flowers receiving more light grow larger and wider than those hidden in the shade of leaves. Additionally, removing the inner leaves from bushy plants helps prevent any threats of mold. Very leafy plants with dense inner foliage will produce a significant amount of popcorn buds. In the worst-case scenario, the dense bud branches and buds will succumb to rot. If you notice water droplets forming on the surface of the leaves, it’s high time to consider defoliation. Clearing the lower and middle areas of leaves is a great way to improve air circulation. THE DISADVANTAGES OF DEFOLIATION Indoor cannabis plants benefit from defoliation for two reasons. The first is that they receive light from a stationary source above them, and the second is that the environmental conditions are controlled by the grower and not Mother Nature. Outdoor plants, on the other hand, don’t gain much from it, as the sun moves across the sky, illuminating different portions of the plant from sunrise to sunset. Outdoor growers don’t need to manipulate the plants to grow in a flat structure since the sun is infinitely more powerful than any grow light and, moreover, it is always moving. Trimming the leaves of outdoor plants also makes them more vulnerable to humid conditions and breaks their natural barriers against pests. Many indoor growers can, and unfortunately often do, reduce the final yield due to defoliation done at the wrong time and/or excessively. Trimming seedlings is not advisable and often results in stunted plants. Scalping mature plants is even worse, and instead of getting long bud branches, you will likely end up with even fewer flowers. Similarly, trimming sick or unhealthy plants at any stage of growth risks stunting growth rather than encouraging the formation of dense flowers. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Day 42 defoliation and LST Day 45 defoliation Day 47 watering with pH 6.3 water to which I add 1ml per liter of water of Topmax Biobizz The plant is now entering flowering, so it's the beginning of the stretch Explanation in English (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimeters. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimeters (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Stretch 10 centimeters Day 52 light defoliation and watering with two liters of water pH 6.3 A little reminder about the best light cycle for autoflowering plants WHAT IS THE OPTIMAL LIGHT SCHEDULE? Autoflowering cannabis can survive on as little as 5 hours of sunlight per day. But if you want your plants to thrive, reach their peak potency, and produce a heavy harvest, they need at least 18 hours of light per day. The optimal light schedule for indoor cultivation of autoflowering cannabis is a constant 20-4 throughout the life cycle. Of course, 18-6, 20-2, and 24-hour non-stop schedules all have their advantages, but we’ve achieved the best results with the 20-4 schedule. Outdoor growers can potentially start growing as early as spring. However, we always recommend germinating the seeds and growing the young seedlings indoors under artificial lights for a week or two to get the best results. We will discuss outdoor options in more detail a bit later. THE LIFE CYCLE OF AUTOFLOWERING CANNABIS The biggest difference between photoperiod cannabis and autoflowering cannabis is that the clock starts ticking for an auto as soon as the seed coat opens. The post-germination life cycle of the vast majority of modern autoflowering varieties is 8-12 weeks in total. Unlike photoperiod varieties, autos do not require the standard 12-12 light schedule to transition into flowering. An autoflowering variety will progress through its life cycle regardless of the day-night cycle. ACCELERATED VEGETATIVE GROWTH It’s almost impossible to delineate the seedling phase from vegetative growth with autoflowering varieties these days. Moreover, within 30 days, most will suddenly explode into the flowering phase. Giving autos a good, solid, and healthy start is a critical factor for successful cultivation. A lot can happen in a week with a vigorous autoflowering hybrid in cultivation. There’s also not much time for transplanting. We recommend using our germination kit or planting directly into the first and final containers from the start. 10-20 L plastic pots/containers with plenty of drainage holes at the bottom are perfect. Air-Pots are even better. Many growers find out the hard way that small pots are not sustainable for larger modern autos. Be prepared to adjust your grow light daily to avoid burning the foliage. Additionally, just like photoperiod varieties, the optimal environmental conditions for young autoflowering plants are temperatures between 20 and 25 °C and a humidity range of 50-70%. Furthermore, nutrient needs will be significantly lower than photoperiod varieties. So, there’s no good reason not to grow organically. Generally, autos prefer a slightly fertilized and well-aerated growing medium. Light soils and/or coco are highly recommended substrates. Most growers prefer warm white CFLs, LEDs, and MH for the short vegetative period. However, dual-spectrum HPS lights are just as effective and probably more convenient to use. FAST AND FIERCE FLOWERING As soon as you can see the pistils growing from the first flowers, you can tell yourself that in 45-60 days, the plants will finish the flowering cycle and be ready for harvest. Whether you’re ready or not. But you will be ready because you will have made the necessary adjustments in time. Vegetative growth fertilizer inputs at a low to medium dosage will be replaced by flowering nutrients and appropriate doses of flowering supplements and boosters. Once again, a Spartan diet is recommended. No need to change the light schedule, as you will follow your original schedule until harvest. But you must ensure that temperatures do not exceed 28 °C and you should lower your humidity to a range of 40-60%. The plants will stretch to varying degrees. In any case, you need to be careful and always maintain an optimal distance between the light and the canopy. A set of adjustable ropes or hooks will make this task much easier. Don’t imagine that all autos will develop a short bushy structure unless the breeder provides data suggesting so. Naturally, the last two weeks of flowering should be reserved for a thorough flushing of the medium. Pure water or a light flushing solution will work very well. When the majority of the hairs or pistils on the flowers have changed from white to orange/red, you should switch to flushing. Don’t skip this critical final step. You deserve the tastiest flowers, free from contamination. HOW WILL AUTOS RESPOND TO PRUNING AND TRAINING TECHNIQUES? The short answer: very well! Most new-generation autoflowering varieties will respond very positively to LST. And as long as you prune early, topping and fimming can multiply the head stems and also boost yields. Additionally, the ScrOG method can be combined with all these techniques for maximum yield. However, high-volume cultivation using the SOG method is probably the most popular growing style right now. An increasing number of auto growers are experimenting with the same common high-yield pruning and training practices that photoperiod cannabis growers use. Beginner growers probably shouldn’t dive into intensive or excessive pruning or training before gaining some experience. However, bending the growth tips a bit to create a flatter canopy can’t hurt yields. Likewise, minimal defoliation to increase light penetration is unlikely to stress healthy plants, as long as you limit it to removing large nutrient leaves that shade the flowering sites. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters + 15 centimeters Day 56 watering with two liters of water pH 6.3 adding 5 grams of greenhouse feeding biobloom while scratching the soil Day 59 watering with two liters of water pH 6.3 to which I add 4ml per liter of water of topmax biobizz Day 61 watering with two liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Stretch 17 centimeters Day 66 defoliation and removal of all lower branches

Master_weeda Day 71 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 73 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 75 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 77 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 80 I add 3 grams of biobloom greenhouse feeding and water with 2 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 84 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 87 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 89 light watering (50cl) still with water ph6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 92 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 98 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 100 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 102 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 105 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 107 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 110 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 112 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 116 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 THE BEST TIME TO FLUSH YOUR CANNABIS Flushing generally begins two weeks before harvest. If the plant has an eight-week flowering period, flushing should start six weeks after the flowering period begins. It's best to closely observe the trichomes on the plant to determine when your cannabis is ready to be harvested. If the small trichomes are just starting to change from a clear color to a milky white hue, it's a good indication that the plants can start being flushed. You should aim for the majority of trichomes to have changed to the desired color for harvest after two weeks – it becomes easier with experience, so hang in there! Flushing can also be a good way to reset the soil when a plant is still in the vegetative growth phase. Sometimes, a grower accidentally overfeeds their cannabis, causing a color change and wilting at the tips of the leaves. This is called "nutrient burn." Flushing the soil can eliminate excess nutrients, helping to resolve the issue. However, this is a drastic measure at this stage of growth, so make sure the problem is indeed nutrient burn and not something else. Flushing isn't just about the harvest time. This technique can also be implemented during the growth phase to rid the soil of nutrients. Of course, nutrients keep your plant healthy and ensure maximum yields, but too much can cause a buildup and a static state where the plant can no longer access them. Nutrient blockage can be caused by salt buildup or incorrect pH levels. Both of these issues can be resolved by flushing your plant with clear water. The fluids will push the nutrients out of the substrate and rid it of the buildup, allowing the roots to access nutrients again. PREVENTING NUTRIENT ABSORPTION BLOCKAGE BEFORE IT BECOMES A PROBLEM At best, nutrient blockage can be an issue; at worst, it can be a real disaster. As the saying goes, it's better to prevent than to cure. It's better to take proactive steps to prevent nutrient blockage rather than dealing with it when it's too late. Preventing nutrient blockage can be done through routine flushing. By flushing your plants once before flowering and once in the middle of it, you will minimize nutrient buildup. ENZYMES TO THE RESCUE After flushing to counteract nutrient buildup or blockage, you may notice that your plants have a dark green appearance, which is a sign of excess nutrients. In this case, some growers choose to add an enzyme-rich formula to their substrate. In case you forgot your biology lessons, enzymes are proteins that catalyze reactions. They help flush the substrate by breaking down starches, carbohydrates, and nutrients. There are a variety of products on the market that contain very effective enzyme formulas. If water isn't enough for your plants, these little proteins will easily tackle the nutrient buildup! HOW TO FLUSH YOUR CANNABIS PROPERLY Flushing your cannabis plant is a simple process. Every time you would normally add nutrients, you flush instead. Untreated tap water is all you need to flush; just make sure its pH is safe for cannabis. Most well water has a healthy pH and doesn't require treatment, but if it's necessary to treat the flushing water to achieve an appropriate pH, do so. pH adjustments will be the only thing to consider. Soak the soil with as much fresh water as it can hold. Let the water sit for a few minutes to absorb the nutrients, then soak the soil again to flush the nutrients away from the plant. If you're growing indoors in pots, note the color of the water that drains from the bottom of the pots. It will be stained and have a dirty color. This is where a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter comes in handy. If you collect and measure the TDS of the "drained" water, it should have a reading of 1300ppm, which is quite high. It's important to flush the plant until the total drops to a level of 50ppm, or at least approaches the TDS of the fresh water you're using to flush the plant. The color of the runoff water will lighten and appear cleaner. You should pull as many dissolved minerals from the plant as possible. How and When to Flush Cannabis Plants Flushing cannabis plants before harvest can make the difference between the best buds or the harshest smoke. This little task is simple and easy to do. Just add water! Be careful because the timing of the flush plays a critical role. The basics of flushing your cannabis plants. Summary: 1. What is flushing? 2. The best time to flush your cannabis 3. Preventing nutrient absorption blockage before it becomes a problem 4. Enzymes to the rescue 5. How to flush your cannabis properly 6. How to flush your plants in hydroponics 7. The results of flushing your cannabis 8. When to avoid flushing your cannabis You've finally finished your grow and you find yourself with a beautiful plant covered in super buds, now dried, you've done the curing, and you're ready to smoke – and yet something is wrong. The weed seems not to want to burn, and when you take a puff, it's like you've been punched in the lungs and you're coughing for your life! The taste is harsh and disappointing. If this is a situation you've experienced, chances are your plants weren't flushed properly before harvest. This smoke, far from being pleasant, is caused by the presence of nutrients and minerals in the plant used during cultivation, which alters how the plant burns. Flushing the plant removes these remaining nutrients, improving the quality of the experience. Fortunately, flushing cannabis plants is easy and effortless, allowing you to produce sweet and delicious buds in no time. RELATED ARTICLE How to Use Nutrients for Cannabis WHAT IS FLUSHING? The act of flushing a plant involves using water to remove any nutrients present in the soil. A large amount of water is passed through the soil and drained on a regular basis. All the minerals and nutrients present in the soil are flushed out over time with the water, leaving clean soil. But why would you want to eliminate all the minerals from the soil? Isn't that bad for the harvest? In fact, it significantly helps the harvest. When nutrients are removed from the soil, it forces the cannabis plant to use all the nutrients still present in the plant. It's like the human body. When we consume a lot of food, what we don't use is turned into fat. In extreme situations where food is scarce, the body relies on that stored fat for energy. Since flushing forces the cannabis to use all the remaining nutrients in the plant, none should remain to alter the harvested buds. However, if you do it too early, it can harm the health of the plant, so timing is key. THE BEST TIME TO FLUSH YOUR CANNABIS Flushing generally begins two weeks before harvest. If the plant has an eight-week flowering period, flushing should start six weeks after the flowering period begins. It's best to closely observe the trichomes on the plant to determine when your cannabis is ready to be harvested. If the small trichomes are just starting to change from a clear color to a milky white hue, it's a good indication that the plants can start being flushed. You should aim for the majority of trichomes to have changed to the desired color for harvest after two weeks – it becomes easier with experience, so hang in there! Flushing can also be a good way to reset the soil when a plant is still in the vegetative growth phase. Sometimes, a grower accidentally overfeeds their cannabis, causing a color change and wilting at the tips of the leaves. This is called "nutrient burn." Flushing the soil can eliminate excess nutrients, helping to resolve the issue. However, this is a drastic measure at this stage of growth, so make sure the problem is indeed nutrient burn and not something else. Flushing Flushing isn't just about the harvest time. This technique can also be implemented during the growth phase to rid the soil of nutrients. Of course, nutrients keep your plant healthy and ensure maximum yields, but too much can cause a buildup and a static state where the plant can no longer access them. Nutrient blockage can be caused by salt buildup or incorrect pH levels. Both of these issues can be resolved by flushing your plant with clear water. The fluids will push the nutrients out of the substrate and rid it of the buildup, allowing the roots to access nutrients again. PREVENTING NUTRIENT ABSORPTION BLOCKAGE BEFORE IT BECOMES A PROBLEM At best, nutrient blockage can be an issue; at worst, it can be a real disaster. As the saying goes, it's better to prevent than to cure. It's better to take proactive steps to prevent nutrient blockage rather than dealing with it when it's too late. Preventing nutrient blockage can be done through routine flushing. By flushing your plants once before flowering and once in the middle of it, you will minimize nutrient buildup. ENZYMES TO THE RESCUE After flushing to counteract nutrient buildup or blockage, you may notice that your plants have a dark green appearance, which is a sign of excess nutrients. In this case, some growers choose to add an enzyme-rich formula to their substrate. In case you forgot your biology lessons, enzymes are proteins that catalyze reactions. They help flush the substrate by breaking down starches, carbohydrates, and nutrients. There are a variety of products on the market that contain very effective enzyme formulas. If water isn't enough for your plants, these little proteins will easily tackle the nutrient buildup! How and When to Flush Cannabis Plants HOW TO FLUSH YOUR CANNABIS PROPERLY Flushing your cannabis plant is a simple process. Every time you would normally add nutrients, you flush instead. Untreated tap water is all you need to flush; just make sure its pH is safe for cannabis. Most well water has a healthy pH and doesn't require treatment, but if it's necessary to treat the flushing water to achieve an appropriate pH, do so. pH adjustments will be the only thing to consider. Soak the soil with as much fresh water as it can hold. Let the water sit for a few minutes to absorb the nutrients, then soak the soil again to flush the nutrients away from the plant. If you're growing indoors in pots, note the color of the water that drains from the bottom of the pots. It will be stained and have a dirty color. This is where a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter comes in handy. If you collect and measure the TDS of the "drained" water, it should have a reading of 1300ppm, which is quite high. It's important to flush the plant until the total drops to a level of 50ppm, or at least approaches the TDS of the fresh water you're using to flush the plant. The color of the runoff water will lighten and appear cleaner. You should pull as many dissolved minerals from the plant as possible. HOW TO FLUSH YOUR PLANTS IN HYDROPONICS Flushing plants in hydroponics is much simpler than getting rid of nutrients in soil. Hydroponic growers can simply drain their system and replace it with neutral pH water. Flushing plants in hydroponics is also a much shorter process. Once the water reservoir has been changed, hydro plants will not have access to external nutrients. For this reason, a two-day flush will suffice. THE RESULTS OF FLUSHING YOUR CANNABIS After harvesting the buds, take the time to properly cure to reach the highest potential. Proper curing helps to further reduce the harshness of the buds by eliminating things like excess chlorophyll. You'll be amazed at the difference this little effort can make on your product. All your hard work will be felt in the first puff of that silky smooth weed, caressing your throat like honey. The sweetest of nature. So you can improve the quality of your cannabis by just adding water! WHEN TO AVOID FLUSHING YOUR PLANTS The only time we recommend avoiding flushing your cannabis is when working with amended organic soil or super soil. These substrates have been carefully developed to host beneficial microorganisms such as bacteria or fungi. This delicate biodiversity could be eliminated and damaged by flushing. Once again, the absence of flushing shouldn't pose any issues, as no external or synthetic nutrients will have been added to the substrate. Instead, the plants rely on microorganisms to break down organic matter and deliver it to the roots. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Nothing to report, the plant is healthy and has an exceptional smell I think I’ll harvest it this week Because the trichomes are starting to turn amber at over 30% How do you know when to harvest? The cannabis harvest window is one of the aspects of growing that is unfortunately too rarely taken into account, or the grower simply doesn't have the patience to wait a few more days to ensure maximum THC content. Some strains are better if harvested before their peak THC production, while others are better if harvested after. There will always be some variations, but you can use the rules below to help you assess the best harvest window for your plants, based on the trichomes: 1) Perfectly formed trichome heads that are still clear will give you a cleaner, more uplifting high with less sedative effect; this is the best harvest window for heavy Indica strains. 2) Perfectly formed trichome heads that are becoming slightly cloudy or milky; this is probably the best time to harvest most of the hybrids currently available. 3) Perfectly formed trichome heads that are completely cloudy or milky, with at least 30% turning amber; this is generally the best harvest window for late-maturing Sativas like Haze. It’s also the right time to harvest when you’re using the plant to make hash. The mistake to try to avoid is harvesting before the trichomes are perfectly formed; most growers who follow the previous rules will harvest when the majority of the resin heads are milky. Harvesting before this window will produce buds that are less potent, containing fewer essential oils and terpenes, and your harvest will have a grassy or hay-like taste, even if it is dried and cured properly. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters First of all, thanks to @james from Royal Queen Seeds for allowing me to grow this strain. I don't know how to hide that my many mistakes unfortunately had an impact on a yield that could have been much more substantial. She loves to be well-fed, but be careful not to overfeed her because Haze varieties are generally sensitive to nutrients. This mainly highlighted the incredible robustness that supported the late and clumsy removal of her lower branches. It's a shame, but as the saying goes, we learn more from our mistakes than from our successes. The buds of this strain are dense and very fragrant, with a fresh and lemony scent that's very pleasant for freshness lovers. What’s unfortunate is that you can't rush the harvest because the biggest drawback of sativas like Amnesia is that they can take a while to flower. The average is 12 weeks, but some phenotypes are known to take 20 weeks. I recommend this strain for fans of lemony varieties. May the force be with you 💪