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Hello guys,
Here I am again to present you a new run, still with the best leds of the market nevertheless as I changed my growing space from 120x120 to 150x150. So I had to update the material inside...
I will run with 3 EVO 5-150 lamps of 320W or 960W with Bluetooth dimmers.
For the Hydro system, it will be the V-SYSTEM from Alienhydroponics.
In fertilizers I am always with Advanced Nutrients.
I work with osmosis water.
Currently, 4 clones took on 4.
Once the roots are ready, I will transfer the cuttings from the propagator to the V-SYSTEM.
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since the 16/08, when I transplanted the plants in the RDWC system, I noticed some points that I will mention below and correct next time.
1. The cuttings are too small, allow enough time so that I can completely fill my pots with clay balls.
2. Cut out the bottom of the pots from the cuttings.
3. 3/4 of the cuttings are touching the water, so one is late. Next time when transplanting, add more water, up to the basket in order to immerse all the plants and not to create a difference between each one, consequence now I have 3 that are ready to explode and one that will struggle behind, problem corrected today by increasing the volume of water.
4. The b-52 is a real pain in the ass in RDWC, you have to clean the 2 filters almost every day, with this new soup I'm testing without and I think I'll continue like this just with the base sensi grow A and B, as I use Root rot X, I won't use voodoo juice since all the bacteria would be killed.
5. Use of Voodoo Juice is useless if using Root Rot X which will kill the bacteria.
I don't know why but when I transplanted in the RDWC, I put my set up in growth mode, except that the plants were not ready for it, moreover, I made a FIM on each. So I lost some days, these last days I went back to a ppdf of 150, now that my roots touch the water, I declare growth 0 on 22/08, I will do between 21 and 28 days of growth. And as my roots are doing well and touching the water I'll go to a PPFD of 300
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During the week, I went from 300 PPFD to 600 and at the same time that I put more light on them, I also increased their nutritional needs to 2.0 EC instead of 1.4, since then it's a root explosion! No worries about PH or EC.
I have a problem that will improve with time but I think it plays on my growth speed anyway, my chiller is not powerful enough, with the heat I can not go below 23 ° for my water, which is high. No choice, we will wait, temperatures are going to go down. Meanwhile, my water is stable between 23 and 24°.
The plants also underwent, Supercropping and pinching for the Zookies, the time that the Amnesia CORE Cut catch up with them. I'm thinking of topping them as well within the week.
I'll change the soup in 3 days as I didn't buy an orp meter, I'll stay around 2.0 EC and the same PPFD. Two more weeks like this and it's off to bloom!
With the last heat wave, I had an answer to one of my questions, clearly my chiller is not doing the trick.
I have water temperatures that went up to 27°, which is way too much, the plants deprived of oxygen, started to declare several deficiencies due to an assimilation slowed by the lack of oxygen.
It is then that a nasty fungus came to say bijour, it is me MR pythium!
It was necessary to act, at the risk of having to restart the culture.
So I applied hydrogen peroxide and ROOT ROT X, and both products are doing harm to this nasty pythium, things are now back to normal.
On the other hand, the plants had a decreased growth for 10 to 15 days, so I'm going to extend my growth for 10 to 20 days, that is to say 1 or 2 soups, I'll choose according to the root development of the plants. Before going to flowering, I have to catch up this delay in order to make a nice crop.
The run continues nicely, we still had some temperatures of nutritive solution a little high with the heat of Danielle. It drops drastically in 2 days so I will finally finish this growth in the calm one and will be able to begin my bloom on September 24th.
I apply hydrogen peroxide at a rate of 0.5ML/L, twice a week as a treatment. The root Rot X is used every ten days when changing the nutritive solution.
I put less water in my system, in order to create a wet zone and a dry zone, I make sure that the roots are always immersed of course.
As soon as the temperature drops, I will switch to 800 ppfd for the end of growth and depending on the evolution of the plants I may add some sensi grow a and b to increase the ec a little.
If you are attentive, you will observe on the tips of the leaves or even on the leaves, spots of burns or deficiencies, it is simply the consequence of the pythium a few days earlier.
The last growth update will be around September 24/25.
I'm spending a few days earlier than expected in bloom! The plants look ready to me.
I set my LED's to 50% which is about 800-850 PPFD
I was still bothered by the pythium and I think it will bother me on the rest of the crop, but we keep it in cage with preventive treatments, evolution to follow closely...
I stay at an EC of 1.9
Osmosis water : EC 0
Root rot X 1ml/L : EC 0.2
Sensi Bloom A and B 3ml/L : EC 1.7
TOTAL EC 1.9
The temperature of the water is ideal, 20°, thanks to the more clement outside temperatures.
I'm not going to hide, I can't wait to restart the run to start a session without pythium 😅, I'm going to finish quietly and I'm thinking about the next strain I'm going to put for the next run, I won't do any more multistrain with this too complicated system. I will possibly add air stones inside each pot to have more oxygenation.
For the strain I hesitate between :
Sour diesel Riri Cut
Pianono Rico Cut
A preference that you want to see in the next culture journal?
So, I keep my EC around 1.9-2.0, that represents about 3ML/L of sensi bloom a and b
I thought I had some big bud left, but no, I'm tempted to use it again, because as much as I'm a fan of Advanced Nutrients, the price and the volume of fertilizer to use in their systems make them a money pit.
So I'm thinking of using Athena for the RDWC and keep AN for my drip system and coco.
To replace I think of the booster PK of Athena which is applicable from the 21 -th day of bloom.
For the LEDS, I went to 70% intensity, or 1000 ppfd. All good, I will go to 80% MAX recommendation of SANlight without c0² in week 3.
I put a first net, I placed about 1 apex per square and I will now let it grow, I don't "knit". I will install a second net at the 21 -th day of flowering which will be used as a stake.
Nothing special, everything is actually working. Clearly once my water was at the right temperature, no more worries.
The flowers arrived at 12/12 + 11 with the trichromes that pop, it starts to be pleasant! So of course, I'm not going to break any records on this RUN but in any case, I've eliminated a lot of "novelty" and mistakes that I'll make more. I'm counting on the run I'm re-launching to blow all that up, I'm going to go for a performance goal
The stretch is off to a good start, it should settle down around 12/12 +21 - 28, so I will place my second net next week.
I have done a defoliation.
I change the soup in 2 days, so my solution lasts 10 days. I have a slight over-fattening, but really nothing serious, I will switch to an EC of 1.8 - 1.9 instead of 2.0. and I will observe.
Here we can see the delay of one of the plants, it's as if I was shooting with only 3 plants. Next time, only one strain, same size of cuttings and passage by cuttings and RDWV DIY mandatory before passage in the V-system.
Next week, I change the brand of fertilizer for the RDWC, I go to Athena, I will introduce the PK of Athena which according to their recommendation starts at the 21st day at a rate of 2ML/L.
I turn with the base sensi bloom a and b + athena pk
Otherwise, I receive the parts this week for my RDWC DIY system for growth, I'll make it with my friend and I'll test it and I'll give you a feedback on the next update, especially since I'm going to restart right away, I'm going to do 10-15 days in cuttings and then I'll go to the RDWC DIY system for growth until I finish the FLO of the V-SYTEM and then I'll go straight to the next one.
I'm going to put my LEDS at 80% which is the MAX recommendation of SANlight without c0² ( I don't forbid myself to grow at 100% in week 5-6, I'll see... )
3rd week of 12/12, all is well.
The flowers have already a lot of trichromes.
I add the Athena KP on the 23rd day of 12/12, in two days.
I made a defoliation, it breathes, it grows...
With the pythium I had growing, it slowed my stretch, with so much growth, it should have been more important.
See you on the 28th day of 12/12
we continue the run with the slowing down of the stretch and the beginning of the beautiful flowers.
This week my EC indicated me some things...
It was at 1.8 and went up to 1.9, so I added water to lower the ec to 1.6.
When my ec goes back up it tells me that I have enough nutrients in my solution.
Now, the ph is back to 1.7, I will add more water to bring it down to 1.5.
We can observe on some leaf tips a beginning of over-fattening, this is what I'm talking about above, I'll let you know next week if I lower the ec or if I keep 1.5.
I did one last defoliation and it was needed!
If you look at my vitals, it's not crazy, 70% humidity at this time of the year can become problematic, so I'm going to take the dehumidifier out and set myself at 55%.
Uwish
