Semaine très tranquille, j'arrose toujours tout les 5 jours environ et en ajoutant 1 fois sur 2 sur BioEnhancer. Intensité de FC3000: 50% Ventilation : extracteur 6 pouce mars hydro power 2/10 ( on 24h/24h) + 1 ventilateur oscillant ( on 12h/24h) 🍊👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍋👨‍🚀🍊 Venez me voir sur Instagram ✌️👨‍🚀 https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/

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Day 65 since seed touched soil. Big disaster in garden !!! I added epsom salt and didnt phed , was in a rush to overtime, they dranked in 3 days , that was unexpected .... Joe has only fresh roots damage, all brown and dead, canopy stayed ok i would say. Running out of space. Mars Hydro TSL2000 is doing great job, two plants are like 5 cm away , still no signs of burn. Try to keep humidity in 65-70 % range, temps around 22, nights 20. All works. Will top up this week with next watering, want to give one plain. Wrong Ph led to slow uptake, two plants are in limbo, behind couple days by weight, if troubles are bigger than i see now - maybe even 3-4. So sad .... One time wrong ph and you can damage garden heavily ... Close up bud photos were taken under max light, so colours are false. Day 66. Joe escaped best, colour is very nice, leaves praying, only good signs from that plant ... Still a week behind in development compared to others. Day 68. They drink fast, 3 days were needed only. Loaded 4 liters again. Made top up. See bleaching, raised lights , have 10 cm left. Jie is having very healthy distance, leaf colour now best. Top up was dosed, mixed well and laid on top, then i rough and mix top lair of soil with top up and only then i water. All pots are 30 litres ( grams and ml , have in mind ) : Plant Success - Great White - 5 ml / pot Ecothrive - Biosys - 5 ml / pot Ecotrive - Charge - 120 ml / pot Ecothrive - Life Cycle - 60 g. / pot Ecothrive - Bio Blend - 200 ml / pot. Happy Growing !!!

Day 172 21/10/24 Monday I had 1.5 Litres of feed left, and she was top dry this morning so she finished that off today. Picture update 😎💚 I'll get one later with lights off 🙌 Day 174 23/10/24 Wednesday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today. Finally update pictures and videos 📸 💚 She is developing awsome colours, and buds are now starting to stack weight 💪🙌 Day 177 26/10/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today, noticed a few tips burning. She is stacking !! This week she has developed a really floral aroma is sweet and tantalising like a perfume almost. She is glistening with trichomes, and buds are taking the dark 🌑 colour with purple/pink calyx tips. Super duper sticky!!

Plants in the main tent are coming along well since correcting the light intensity and run-off ppm, the one on the left is filling out now, so is the one in the middle just much slower. Not sure if I will let that one cook longer or just pull it with the rest... will see how she looks in a week. The plant on the right I spread out to take up almost half of the tent (I didn't want the spindler taking up unnecessary space) - her nugs are real nice - some foxtails and bleaching on the taller ones but for the most part looking good. Plant on the left has filled out a lot more despite its weirder more "wiry" bud structure - does't look as nice as the good plants but definitely better than the spindly plant in the middle. Big Mumma is still killing it - wondering if its getting close to flush time for her as it looks like some of her tricomes are starting to brown...

Fast Buds CC still has more yellowing in the leaves than I like. I've been ph'ing my water down to 6.0 and giving her extra Recharge (1 tbs/gallon). The bud sites are looking good. I think I'm 2-3 weeks from harvest here. Looking forward to having a taste of Cream Cookies. If she's anything like Girl Scout Cookies, its going to be a hit! 👍

Mephisto and bighead going into darkness for 48-72 hrs. Then the chop. Big bomb is the last one standing in the 5x4 will begin flushing soon

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

No complaints, flowering good, a few yellowing on leaf is starting to show, maybe not feeding enough. But so far so good

Whats up GD !!! ------------- GROWTH------------- She is getting weight and finishing, leaves turned purple, red, and all the amazing colours you see in photos, she is almost ready and it is so frosty, Smells like red licorice, and fruits. Flushing last 7 days. ------------- IRRIGATION------------- 1,5l, watering each 3 days . 1 of 2 irrigations with nutes, and the other with water. ------------- NUTRIENTS------------- Top Bloom (3ml/l) Top Candy (2ml/l) --------------------------------------- Good vibes !! _29/06/2018_

01/03 These girls are growing fast. I will turn up the lights and stake over the next couple days. I may or may not defoliate. Well see how they look tied up. 01/05 They like the flower nutes and are starting to stretch!

Hey everyone! It's week 3 of flower for our Anesia Seeds phenohunt, and things are getting even more exciting in the garden! The plants are thriving, and we're seeing some beautiful development as they enter this crucial phase of their growth. Nutrient Adjustments 🌱💧 This week, we've introduced Potassium (K) into our nutrient regimen. Potassium is essential during the flowering stage as it helps with the development of buds, enhancing their size, density, and overall quality. Here's the updated nutrient mix we're using: Regulator: 0.15ml/L CaMg Boost: 0.25ml/L Top Booster: 0.3ml/L P Boost: 0.4ml/L K Boost: 0.3ml/L With these adjustments, the TDS has gone up to 500 ppm, and the pH is set at 6.0. The temperature remains steady at 21°C, creating the perfect environment for our girls to flourish. The Power of Potassium Introducing K Boost is a game-changer. Potassium plays a vital role in regulating plant metabolism and promoting strong, healthy growth. It aids in: Bud Development: Enhances the size and density of buds, leading to a more substantial yield. Disease Resistance: Strengthens the plant's natural defenses, making them more resilient to diseases. Water Regulation: Helps the plant manage water efficiently, which is crucial during the flowering stage. The Garden Update The Anesia girls are looking spectacular! Each strain is showing unique characteristics, and it's a joy to watch them evolve. Here's a quick update: Future #1: Buds are swelling nicely, and the aroma is starting to intensify. This one's a beast in the making! Zoomiez: Displaying some beautiful coloration and structure. The flowers are stacking up perfectly. Apricot Oreo: This beauty is living up to its name with a fruity scent that's simply irresistible. Red Banana Pudding: The solo survivor continues to shine, with impressive bud development and a delightful fragrance. Maintaining optimal environmental conditions is key. With the Blue Lab Guardian monitor, we're ensuring precise control over the TDS, pH, and temperature. This tool is invaluable in keeping our garden thriving and healthy. After adjusting the nutrients, we gave the girls a thorough watering. The sight of water droplets on the freshly topped plants is always a pleasure. It signifies hydration and health, ensuring the plants can absorb all the nutrients they need for robust growth. A big shoutout to Anesia Seeds for providing these amazing genetics. Their support and trust are deeply appreciated. Also, a huge thank you to Aptus Holland for their exceptional products that keep our plants thriving organically and Future of Grow for the LED lighting that ensures our girls get the perfect amount of photons. Invitation to Join the Journey Don't forget to check out our "Welcome to the Green Oasis" series on YouTube, where we document every step of this exciting journey. Join us and see the magic unfold! Stay tuned for more updates, and keep spreading positivity and love in your gardens! Genetics Red Banana Pudding = RBP Apricot Oreoz = AO Zoomiez = Z Future#1 = F https://anesiaseeds.com/ Plant nutrition - Aptus Holland - https://aptus-holland.com LED Photons - Future of Grow - https://www.thefuturofgrow.com/ Controls - Trol Master - https://www.trolmaster.eu/ Watering - Autopot - https://autopot.co.uk/ Tent - Mars Hydro - https://marshydro.eu/ Love and attention - Me, myself and i As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and blessed with you all in my life, With true love comes happiness. Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so More info, the ocasional give-away and exclusive updates from all my adventures can be found - links in the profile description Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love To you Al

This plant is really starting to bulk up now. I just drove to a few different places before j found the nutrients I ran out of. I found those and some additives along the way. I've heard really good things about both tasty terpenes and bud factor x from advanced nutrients. Now I get to try them. The plants just got their first feeding tonight so we will see how they respond to the new nutrients.

Got myself some new genetics for the next run after the badazz og and Bubba cheesecake. Both Ethos Dip n stax and Capjunky x Endgame #3 special limited edition 🙏🙏 Once the Pyschoberry cheese is ready ill scrog 2x Bubba and 1 Badazz Og in the 3x3 should be within the next week or two 💪

I had a little trouble this week Plants 1 and 2 are still droopy and the fungus gnats seem to be getting worse. I wasn't sure if it was overwatering or not enough nutrients. So I let them dry out for 4 days and noticed it got worse. So it probably was not overwatering. On day 56 I top dressed Plants 1 and 2 with some left over Nature's Living Soil. I used 2 tablespoons each and added 4 cups of Root's Organic soil also since the pots have settled a little. Then I gave all the plants a good watering. Hopefully after a few days they will perk back up. On day 55 I added sticky cards to each pot to keep an eye on how many fungus gnats I have. There was quite a few after just one day but I noticed less in the tent. I read some posts on Nature's Living Soil and another on air-pots. It seems like others have had nutrition problems with Nature's Living Soil if they went longer than a month of vegging, which would explain my issue. The other post about air-pots said fungus gnats love them since they can attack the soil from all sides instead of just the top layer. Apparently if you let the top layer of soil dry out well in normal pots the fungus gnat problem mostly goes away. But when using air-pots the top layer of soil might dry out but they can still get to the moist soil from the bottom or sides.

July 5 - other crops on the lateral branches, growing strong every day 💚🔥