10 September Harvest - see pictures. While some growers leave the plant whole when they cut, I do not. It is a personal preference and situational convenience if your a home grower. I chose to cut large, long branches, and remove any whole water leaves, as long as it doesn’t interfere with the bud formation. I don’t trim yet. This is done for a few of reasons: 1) It’s my last good close-up look at her until another 5 days or more, 2) I don’t want wet leaves drying on my buds if I can help it, and 3) I occasionally like being able to shine a small LED flashlight on the flowers while its drying. Mold is our greatest problem as growers, it can destroy a beautiful grow right up until the end process. Then I hang it in a dark closet, provide circulation and ventilation. Light and heat, anything above 80 degrees F, will start a break down in cannabinoids during the dry, it is ideal to stay away from both. I’m fortunate that a humidity level of 50- 55% and temperature of 65-70 degrees F is fairly consistent and easy to maintain. Anything below 60 degree F will prevent the adequate drying out of chlorophyll. Almost all my flower routinely take 5-7 days, some a little longer, to properly dry out. 15 September Trim - see pictures. First you’ll notice the buds have shrunk up to half their original size. This is just a fact that we growers have to deal with. Due to evaporation without uptake of water, it takes about 3 days for the chlorophyll to dry up, then slowly go through a chemical change. Along with the leaves, cannabinoids also begin a chemical change after 3 days called decarboxylation. A slow process where the THC level increases while curing. You want the leaf to be dry so they can be hand trimmed easily, but you do not want that bud so dry that it starts to fall apart in your hand. Try to handle carefully by the main stem to avoid touching the bud all together. A lot of these cut leaves will be covered with trichomes, good for making oils, or other products, it’s an option worth looking into keeping it. After trimming, I do separate a few premium flowers for my first smoq. Then loosely fill wide mouth quart mason jars with about 1 oz/28 gr of product per jar. I seal the lids for a few hours to determine what relative humidity they are at, see hygrometer pic, before making a decision to put in a 62% humidity control pack of my choice or to wait, then place in secure in a cool dark place with stable humidity and temperature. It is very important to then observe/burp or exchange the air as needed, up to several times a day, until 62% rh is achieved. Once your close to to your mark, put in your desired RH level control terpene shield. If you have a problem getting there: 1) it has dried out too much, no real solution, try to put several large cut stems left over from harvest into the jars with the buds to try and increase humidty, 2) it has not dried out enough, in this case no problem, just remove and dry out a little more. This is also a personal choice, some people like it drier in the 50% plus range. Whatever you do, research and preserve. At that time burping is no longer required. Cannabis will reach its peak potency potential at about 40 or so days into the cure. The finished product should be a perfect grind when cured correctly without clogging up your grinder, this could take a month. Now that I’ve said that, I’m sure someone has grown something that they have not been able to grind. It can remain in this state for an easy 6 months with little change, locking in all the terpenes and potencies. All you need to do is occasionally check the product to ensure there are no molds. If your grow/harvest/cure techniques are good this should not be an issue. It would not be uncommon to find many cannabis strains will last, with small degradable change, for up to one year after being stored this way. Using an airtight glass container, controlled relative humidity, maintained low temperature, and kept in darkness will equal maximum shelf life. Always avoid direct sunlight and temperatures above 80 degrees F. The reasons I’ve ultimately chosen Deep Water Culture as a grow medium. Each has their own pros and cons indeed. I found the most efficient, less maintenance and ideal solution for my situation was DWC. Burdens to overcome depend on size up set-up; initial equipment cost, size of containers, ph monitors, air pumps, type of water to use-reverse osmosis, RO cost/set-up/maintenance, ways to transfer/change water and nutrients, what nutrients to use and schedules, takes several grows to learn and understand, a 1 year learning curv, easy to nutrient burn. The Benefits of growing in water; no dirt, no bugs, no diseases, rare nutrient deficiencies/toxicities, steady and rapid growth that enables the plant to reach its genetic potential. After harvest, there is about a 1 hour equipment cleanup, sterilization and turn around process before replanting. Cannabis will perform in so many different ways and mediums, no one way is the best and the best way is the one you are using, right. Chose what works for you in the long run. There will always be an initial cost in set-up. My advice if one were in need to cut corners, I would not recommend cheap lights. This single factor is the most critical, afford for the best. The notion that organic and water has a different taste, flavor and potency effect is absolutely debatable. The more we learn the better we grow and experience is always the best teacher. This is what works for me and my methods of growing in general from beginning to end. A BIG “Thank You” to everyone who stopped by to take a look. My next diary will start at the beginning of October 2023 with a Forbidden Runtz Auto. There will be minor differences during the grow. I enjoy Auto strains simply by what can be achieved in a short time. No matter the strain they will unveil one thing in common, the demand for attention. Many times over it is the anecdotal gardener that surmount plant scientist. Last should I mention, do not forget to stop and enjoy the fruits of your labour...