This week was spent doing some needed cleaning and minor defoliation and start aiming towards flowering in the next week or so. I dumped all pots and wiped out as well as the resivoir and added fresh water and nutes to all the plants. While plants were out of tent I did some very minor defoliating as well. I picked up a few goodies this week. I noticed a fruit fly or two and decided to pick up an insect trap off amazon (let’s see how it works 🤞🏽). I also picked up a chargeable watering wand that is worth 3x its price for how easy it makes it to water/feed my plants. I just drop in in my 5 gallon bucket after nutes and pHing water and get to work without moving a single pot. Wish I got this sooner!

Day 29 Overall I have no big plans for the girls this week. Just letting them recover from topping last week, and I'll continue to adjust the LST wires as needed. Also, I have decided to stop measuring the plant size every day as it is a bit pointless this far into veg. Instead, I will measure the girls at the end of each week. I started this week by feeding the plants' compost tea as well as foliar feed them. I have a small hand sprayer which works well as I only have a couple of plants. The bendable nozzle is convenient as it allows me to feed all sides of the plants easily. I just need to be careful when I do the underside of the leaves with the nozzle pointing upwards so I don't get my face full of wormpoop juice. I gave each girl around 2 liters of tea, and I completely forgot to check the pH. Sigh. Also, it is worth noting that I gave the tea to the plants just after the lights out so that the tea didn't burn on the leaves.  I noticed some light green/yellow tips on the new growth at the very top of the right girl. New growth further down doesn't show any yellow tips, so I suspect that I might be dealing with light bleaching. I checked the light level at the canopy, and it was up around 850 PPFD which is relatively high. (I completely forgot to raise the lights as the plants grew. DOH!) I moved up the light around 10 cm and then measured around 640 PPFD at canopy level. Hopefully, that will sort out those yellow tips but I'll keep my eyes on it. Day 30 All I did today was to once again cut back the cover crop a bit and tighten the LST wires. I did pull a bit too much on the left girl and heard a "crack". Turn out that the branch broke just right by the main stem but I think it will heal just fine as it was a really small break. Time will tell. Day 31 Today was moving day and I finally moved out all tomatoes and pepper plants. Good to have a bit more space again considering how cramped my tent is. I also did some more cover crop trimming and it is insane how much it grows. I removed a couple more leaves from the right girl as they weren't getting any light that far down on the plant. The branch on the left girl that I broke yesterday looks like a lost cause at this point but I'll give it another day or two to see if it heals. Kinda doubt it but let's see. I also tightened all the LST wires further and gave each girl around 2.5 liters of pH 6.0 water. The tops are looking good in the propagation tray but no visible roots yet. I gave them a bit more aloe tea. Finally, I hung up a CO2 bag in the tent. One of the problems with my setup is that the tent gets quite hot due to the powerful lights and since the tent is so small I can't fit an AC in there. Hopefully, the CO2 will help with the heat problem now when the weather is getting better which means that the tent will become even warmer. Day 32 Today I went on a field trip to a nearby horse ranch to hunt down and gather compost worms. I gathered around 50 red wrigglers, cleaned them up, and added them to my pots. Even though I watered the girls yesterday, the right one was dry today, so I gave her around 2 liters of pH 6.5 water. Thirsty girl but then she is also large and bushy, making sense that she drinks more than the other plant. Yesterday, I hung up a CO2 bag in the tent, and unfortunately, it really smells like shit. Literally. I hope the smell will decrease with time because right now, it stinks pretty bad when I open the tent. Ugh. Finally, I removed that broken branch as it was clear it wouldn't make it. Day 33 Ahhhhh, the wonderful feeling of opening up the tent and get hit by a wall of shit smell. My girlfriend even bitched me out that the entire apartment stinks. This was the first time I bought this brand of CO2 bags and I seriously doubt that I will repurchase it... More watering today, and I gave each girl 2.5 liters of pH 6.5 water. At least all this watering keeps the humidity at a reasonable level, but I really should get around to hooking up the Blumat system, so I don't need to hand-water all the time. I'm way too lazy to have to water every day. I did some additional defoliation on the left girl. Nothing crazy. It was just removing a few leaves that weren't getting any lights at the bottom of the plant. I also installed a scrog net but am not thrilled about how it fits. I'll leave it for now but think I will have to make my own in the future. Finally, I managed to put up a plastic pocket on the wall of the tent. Something that I have considered since getting the tent but never gotten around to doing. It is just a place where I can put the tools that I use most - scissors for cutting back cover crop and defoliation, PAR meter to check light levels, pH meter to make sure that my water is ok, and glasses for inspecting the plants. Day 34 Today my girlfriend was hiding in bed, under the cover, as I opened the tent. Just in case... Sure, enough. It still stinks. No big mission today. Just a quick maintenance mission where I cut down the cover crops a bit and removed another few leaves to increase air circulation. I also repositioned and tightened the LST wires. That was it. Day 35 End of week 5 of vegetation and another fairly easy day. I gave each girl 3liters of pH 6.2 water, tightened up a couple of LST wires, tucked in a few branches into the net, and super-cropped a couple of branches on the right girl. The left girl is 24 cm tall and the right one 34 cm tall. I also moved the tops out of the tent as very little light reaches the floor of the tent now when the girls are getting bushy. I put them under a ViparSpectra light together with my tomatoes and chilis. I still have no exact plan what to do with the clones if they survive but maybe I'll plant them outdoors and see what happens.

Hey growmies its flushing time for mi watermelon 🍉 🍉!! Her smell is vary fruity and sweet, can't wait to smoke this one !! WhiteWidow also is in flushing time ! All the girls are looking good 👍💪❤️ I just installed mi new Sp 6500 👍💪👍💪 we gonna finish them up whit some good extra wats ! Check out this led on the website💪👍 https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-sp-6500-led-grow-light/ SP6500, as one of the huge single bar LED grow lights, installed with top quality Samsung LM301B diodes, designed with enhanced red in broad-spectrum light, emits the highest central PPF and has the superb penetration that its major applications are for high-wire plants and greenhouses. Wattage – 650w Veg Coverage – 4×5 ft Flower Coverage – 3×5 ft Featuring a thick aluminium passive heat sink and densely arranged chips, the SP Series provides high efficacy but low heat output while minimizing obstruction to natural LIGHT!

I will answer how it smoked in a couple days maybe week

Green House Seeds – Honey Dipper & Shishka Lemonade | Keimung & Start Heute startet für mich ein neues Projekt mit Green House Seeds. Ich freue mich sehr, in den kommenden Wochen zwei feminisierte Sorten begleiten und regelmäßig über ihre Entwicklung berichten zu dürfen: 🍯 Honey Dipper 🍋 Shishka Lemonade Beide Sorten sind keine Autoflower, sondern feminisierte photoperiodische Genetiken – für mich also ein etwas anderer Grow als die vielen Autos, die ich sonst regelmäßig dokumentiere. Für den Start habe ich meine bewährte Keimmethode verwendet. Beide Seeds kamen in RO-Wasser mit drei Tropfen H₂O₂. Und das Ergebnis konnte sich wirklich sehen lassen! 😍 Nach nicht einmal 24 Stunden waren bereits bei beiden Seeds deutliche Keimzeichen zu erkennen und beide Samen sind erfolgreich gekeimt. Dadurch konnte ich sie schon direkt in ihre Endtöpfe setzen. Für mich ist das definitiv ein sehr vielversprechender erster Eindruck. Natürlich sagt eine schnelle Keimung allein noch nichts über die spätere Performance einer Pflanze aus – aber dass beide Seeds so schnell und zuverlässig gekeimt sind, macht auf jeden Fall Lust auf die nächsten Wochen. 🌱 Jetzt beginnt die spannende Phase: beobachten, wie sich Honey Dipper und Shishka Lemonade entwickeln, wie kräftig ihr Wachstum startet und welche Unterschiede sich zwischen den beiden Genetiken zeigen. Ich werde diesen Grow regelmäßig hier auf GrowDiaries begleiten und euch natürlich an der gesamten Entwicklung teilhaben lassen. Green House Seeds × Mr.WeeedWorld – let's grow! 🌱🔥 #GreenHouseSeeds #HoneyDipper #ShishkaLemonade #Feminized #Photoperiod #GrowDiaries #CannabisCommunity #MrWeeedWorld #IndoorGrow #GrowJournal -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Green House Seeds – Honey Dipper & Shishka Lemonade | Germination & Start Today marks the beginning of a new project with Green House Seeds. I am very happy to be able to grow and regularly document two of their feminized strains over the coming weeks: 🍯 Honey Dipper 🍋 Shishka Lemonade Both strains are not autoflowers, but feminized photoperiod genetics – so this will be a slightly different experience for me compared to the many autoflower grows I usually document. For germination, I used my usual method. Both seeds were placed in RO water with three drops of H₂O₂. And the result was really promising! 😍 After less than 24 hours, both seeds were already showing clear signs of germination and both successfully sprouted. This allowed me to move them directly into their final pots. For me, this is definitely a very promising first impression. Of course, fast germination alone doesn't tell us anything about the final performance of a plant – but seeing both seeds germinate so quickly and reliably definitely makes me excited for what comes next. 🌱 Now the interesting part begins: watching how Honey Dipper and Shishka Lemonade develop, how vigorously they start growing, and what differences we will see between these two genetics. I will be documenting this grow regularly here on GrowDiaries and, of course, sharing the entire journey with you. Green House Seeds × Mr.WeeedWorld – let's grow! 🌱🔥 #GreenHouseSeeds #HoneyDipper #ShishkaLemonade #Feminized #Photoperiod #GrowDiaries #CannabisCommunity #MrWeeedWorld #IndoorGrow #GrowJournal

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17.11. Day 50 Blüte 11 Hallo Leute. Pflanze kam in die Mitte des Zeltes und wurde gedreht um 180°. Bald sollte ich etwas lollipoppen. Alles sehr zufriedenstellend. Der Duft ist unbeschreiblich. Soo deep Haschisch Ketama. Noch 75 Tage bis zum Ende des Wettbewerbs. Noch 59 Tage ca für die Blüte. 18.11. ? Es waren nur 24 h. Doch jetzt kann ich bereits von Knospen sprechen. 19.11. Siehe Photos. Was das? Egal ,waren nur zwei 2. Sind jetzt entfernt. 20.11. day 14 Flower. Ich müsste auf jeden Fall lollipoppen. Normal mache ich das nicht, aber es ist ein Contest. 👍 Und ich hätte nix gegen größere Knospen. Nach dem lollipoppen hängt ein Geruch nach Original Gewürz nelken und Piment an meinen Händen. Ohh😊. 21.11. Invasion der Thirpse Teil 4.. Die Antwort: Arnold Pyrolitenegger. Und noch 55 Tage Blüte. 22.11. Pyrolitenegger.

So guys today is day 49 entering week 8, so 1 more week on the bio bizz heaven, top max and bloom. The weather in the UK is mad at the minute 28°c my grow room is the same with lights off and causing my a lot of humidity, thank god for the dehumidifier but I'm emptying it twice a day now. Buds are getting fatter and the fade is coming on. Just got to go in there and check on them, temp has dropped now even tho light is on. Humidity is sitting at 50%. I hope you like the video, happy growing peoples😊💚 ignore the ozzie man review voice at the beginning 🤣🤣🤣 Day 52 flower, buds are fat sticky and ready to harvest, im waiting for more of a fade as I reckon they will swell more, I think another week and its time for the chop. Any questions or advice please feel free to hit me up. Day 54, done a slight defoliation at there was a lot of leaf on leaf, I should of used cropguard for piece of mind 😅 next run I will trust me. I have started the ripener 5ml to a litre I will be running this for the next 7-10 days and then rinsing with there rinse aid for 4 days so aiming for harvest on the 24th-25th latest 😀. Happy growing famalam 💚

Week thirteen for Nori Cake. Day 39 of 12/12. She's just doing her thing and despite some watching and watering there wasn't much to do this week :) Really love this phase of a plants life, when all the work is showing in a steady progress and the most needed thing is patience.

For most crops, a slightly acidic soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal because it optimizes nutrient availability. When soil pH rises above 7.0 (alkaline), the concentration of hydrogen ions H+ drops significantly, and they are replaced by calcium, magnesium, or sodium ions on the clay colloid exchange sites. To naturally lower alkaline soil pH, you can add organic matter (carbon-rich materials), which produces weak organic acids as it decomposes. Maintaining this slightly acidic range stimulates a highly active, diverse microbial community; these microbes decompose organic matter and release carbon dioxide CO2, which plants absorb through their roots and leaves to boost photosynthesis and sugar production. Furthermore, the added organic carbon acts like a sponge, drastically improving the soil's water-holding capacity. While soil biological activity does involve cellular electron transport, electrical conductivity (EC) in soil is actually a measure of dissolved mineral salts, not a voltage carried by individual microbes. Soil microorganisms secrete organic acids and chelate metallic and non-metallic minerals, transforming locked-up inorganic compounds into bioavailable organic complexes. Unlike harsh synthetic fertilizers that can dehydrate soil life in high concentrations, these naturally chelated nutrients safely nourish the plant, creating a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem where plants can efficiently synthesize their own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.

Drying

4° SEMANA - LAS PLANTAS SIGUEN CON EL MISMO PLAN NUTRICIONAL - NO SE VEN CARENCIAS NI EXCESOS - el hps de 600 MANTIENE MI AMBIENTE SIN MAYORES INCONVENIENTES - LAS PLANTAS PREPARANDO YA SU PROX. PASO A FLORACIÓN - EN ESTA SEMANA Y EN LOS ÚLTIMOS DÍAS DE LA SEMANA SE LE APLICO DEFOLIACIÓN Y PODA DE BAJOS

She's growing nicely. She's staying indoors this summer. This is suppose to be a good medical strain for headaches/migraines, I'm hopeful for my migraines will diminish with this strain.

I'm trying to bend the plant to the right, but the stem is very thick and powerful, and I'm afraid of breaking it, so I'm letting it grow at almost 45 degrees

Overall the plant yielded good dense nugs with strong smell, if your planning on running these seeds make sure you have a good germination rate so you can get at least 1 good pheno with good color on it. This strain was very resistant to deficiencies, large amount of root development and decent lateral growth. I will post nug shots after dry and trim

Non so perché ma ha questo colorito sul giallo ...non so se è qualche carenza ma è tutto perfetto dal pH all'umidità ... comunque procede molto bene ! Aspettiamo e vediamo che succede

I loved growing this plant. I have learnt so many new things. This is the first time I topped, defoliated, attempted to mainline, and everything seems to have worked out pretty well. I have made some mistakes here and there, but that's part of the learning process and lead to a pretty interesting grow :).