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Sep 28: still going into a new week. She is definitely bulking up but the season is almost done. I’ll take what I can get for hash, and the very top buds will likely be okay for flower. Sep 29: looks noticeably larger overnight which is great to see. Might still work as our weather forecast has been upgraded to extend the season a bit further. Sep 30: light rain and overcast all day. Hit 0 C last night and daytime high was only 9 C so season is mostly done. Maybe two weeks more can get squeezed in but that will likely be it.
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8/21, 8/22 TOASTED TOFFY WAS TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR ON THE 22nd. It's been a few days of rainy dreary weather. This morning I went over and did some MORE defoliation on the toasted toffy trying to get all infected leaves off. I then used the rest of the k bicarb on the gmo in the middle. I haven't seen hardly any pm. So that seems to be working. However I don't want septoria to spread through my garden either. Hopfully the plant doctor will take care of the problem. If not I'll get something different. I can make a diy Dr. Zymes or I could just go to the store and buy something specific like trichodermia. The weather has been a fungus nirvana. The conditions couldn't have been anymore perfect for mold development. I'm super impressed with the k bicarb treating the pm. I took tons of pictures yesterday but I've been sick and couldn't upload them. I still need to sanitize and put my supports up. I'll keep this updated with what I'm doing. UPDATE: AFTER UNCKES FUNERAL I WATERED THE SHERB PIE THAT I DIDNT LAST TIME AND THEN I FED. I DIDNT FEED THE TOASTED TOFFY DUE TO IT BEING TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR. EVERYTHING GOT A QRT THE 50GAL GOT MORE. TWO GALLONS TOTAL USED. I NOTÌCED SOME SLIGHT PM ON THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE. IT WOULD BE TIME TO TREAT AGAIN ANYWAY. I PLAN ON WATERING TOMORROW AND TREATING THIS PLANT AGAIN. IM HESITANT TO UsE PLANT DOCTOR (do to feeding tonight) RIGHT OFF SO ILL PROBABLY USE YHE K BICARD. IT WORKS GOOD. I SHOULDNT HAVE FED THAT PLANT SO I COULD APPLY THE PLANT DOCTOR INSTEAD. THAT SEEMS TO BE WORKING REALLY WELL. LAST TIME I USED IT WAS ON FUSARIUM AND THATS JUST A LOSING BATTLE. DID A QIICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 8/23 I HAD A CRISIS SITUATION AND I FUCKED UP THE DIARY. I THINK I JUST DIDN'T RECORD WHAT I DID ON THIS DAY. 8/24 I checked the bags and they were heavy. I watered the sherb pie today as it missed the last watering. Everything but the toasted toffy got fed yesterday. I noticed some slight pm on the middle GMO that I've been treating with k bicarb. Just a couple leaves. Looks like a couple spots I missed. I was going to apply it again but I dodnt have time. I'll be back over soon and I'll treat it and do the defoliation needed. Maybe I'll even sanitize and get support up. Since I fed yesterday I don't want to use the plant doctor for a few more days. I'm thinking of treating everything with it. I need to read and see when the next application for toasted toffy is due. Things are really starting to flower. Once I get the work done I may add beastie bloom to my nute line up. I think I'll do another k-bicarb app on the plant with pm. It's doing a good job. Since the l bicarb I don't see any pm. I should've held off feeding it so I could've used plant doctor. I'm monitoring toasted toffy and if it keeps working good I'll treat everything preventatively. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11:30 BECAUSE IT HAD CLIMBED INTO THE UPPER 80'S. AS I SUSPECTED THE PLANTS NEEDED WATER. THEY COULDVE WAITED UNTIL TONIGHT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I HAvE TO DO THINGS WHEN IM ABLE TOO. EVERYTHING GOT A GALLON EXCEPT THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE IN THE 30, THAT GOT 1.5. SHERB PIE GOT IT YESTERDAY AND ISNT FLOWERING AS VIGEROUS SO IT USES LESS WATER. BEFORE WATERING I WENT THROUGH THE ENTIRE GARDEN AND DEFOLIATED WHAT NEEDED TO BE DEFOLIATED. I HAVE A FEW SMALL LIMBS I SHOULD PRUNE BUT THAT STUFF MAKES GOOD HASH MATERIAL AND ACTUALLY ADDS UP. I NOTICED A LITTLE BIT OF PM ON THE GMO I TREATED. Just a couple spots on a couple leaves and I removed them. I MIXED UP K BICARB AND ILL APPLY IN THE MORNING. I WANTED TO USE PLANT DOCTOR BUT SEEING THAT I FED ILL WAIT. ID LIKE TO GIVE THEM ALL PLANT DOCTOR AS A PREVENTATIVE. SUPPOSABLY IT STIMULATES AN IMMUNE RESPONSE WITHIN THE PLANT WHICH FIGHTS THE PATHOGENS THEN LEAVES POTASSIUM AND PHOSPHORUS BEHIND AFTER 4 DAYS FOR THE PLANT TO USE. I THINK ITS GETTING CLOSE TO TREATING THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN. ILL HAVE TO LOOK. I TOOK A VIDEO BUT ILL HAVE TO UPLOAD IT it. 8/25 I know the diary is fucked up. But I know I watered yesterday. Except the sherb pie. I didn't check the weight bit did a bunch of defoliation. I made another half gallon of k bicarb with a drop of dawn and sprayed all the gmos. I only saw a COUPLE spots with pm on them and I removed them. Still though I wanted to make sure it doesn't get out of control. I should've checked the weight of the sherb pie but I'm sure it's fine.. I took a video but I can't upload it yet. WENT BACK OVER AROUND TWO. IT WAS A BLISTERING HOT DAY IN THE 80'S. THE BAGS WERE DRY. THEY HAD A LITTLE WRIGHT TO THEM AND MOST SOME LEAVES WERE PRAYING. SOME WERE STARTING TO DROOP THOUGH. I WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT THE SHERB PIE I GOT THIS MORNING. I gave the gmo in the 30 1.5. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE COULDVE WAITED UNTIL MORNING BUT AT LEAST I CAN KEEP TRACK OF IT EASIER THIS. MAYBE I SHOULD GIVE THE 50 MORE WATER AT A TIME. IM GETTING YELLOW LEAVES. I THINK ITS PROBABKY SENESCENCE. ITS ABOUT THE SAME TIME EVERY YEAR I START LOSING SOME LEAVES. IT SEEMS TO BE JUST THE SHERB PIE AND THE BIG ONE IN THE 50. THAT PLANT HAS QUARTER SIZE BUDS ON IT THOUGH. ITS AMAZIBG HOW MUCH THE WATER INTAKE CHANGES WHEN ITS 60 OR UPPER 50S WITH HIGH HUMIDITY TO WHEN ITS IN THE 80S ALMOST 90. I HOPE IM NOT WATERING TO OFTEN. ITS BEEN COLD AT NIGHT. IN THE 50S. THE EVENT HORIZON HAS TURNED A NICE PURPLE ON MANY LEAVES. THE GMO'S AND SHERB PIE ALSO ARE TURNING PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. I SAW WHAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA SPOTS CRAWLING UP KY EVENT HORIZON IN THE BACK. IN GOING TO TREAT IT WITH PLANT DOCTOR TOMORROW. 8/26 Rainy day. I noticed some septoria on the toasted toffy climbing a bottom branch. But it is time to reapply plant doctor. I saw a couple spots on the event horizon and I treated it today with 1/4 gallon of 2tsp per gallon plant doctor. I sprayed the leaves then I used the rest on the soil. The k bicarb is still keeping any pm at bay. I haven't seen a spot. I hope the plant doctor helps the event hotlrizon. I'm not even sure if it has it but I want to be cautious. I'm thinking of treating them all with plant doctor. I'm also going to use beastie bloom on some of the more advanced plants. I wasn't expecting it to rain but it wasn't for at least a couple hours after I sprayed. I ran another support line across the cage. I need to lst both event horizons and defoliate the sherb pie. It's weird but it seems like EVERY day I go over the flowers are bigger! I see birds darting out when I approach. Maybe that's why i haven't been finding pillars. I found ONE hairy one this week trying to escape to the soil on a string. I got him though. We'll see how it goes. If not I have other options for treatments if needed. That plant in the 10 is HUGE. I'm suprised it got that big in 10gals! Trying to upload videos but they are LONG so I don't know if they
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@Nebula420
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I really liked Barney's Farm genetics.It’s a pleasure to grow Ayahuasca Purple Thanks Barney's Farm, Growdiaries team, and thank to everyone who follow my grow report, love u all, Peace!😘
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Hello guys😍😍 Fifth week of growth. Last week, the plants were a little shocked after topping, but after a few weeks they returned to normal growth. To reduce this shock, I used BioEnhancer fertilizer. And this week I checked the roots. The pots are ready to be Transplat.Thank you for following my project. 🌷farah4weed🌷
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Earlier in the week, I saw a discolored bud, and upon closer inspection, I found bud rot. Ugh. I immediately cut off the infected bud and the one closest to it. I looked through the canopy but couldn't see any more affected buds. Right after, I went out of town for a few days to Mary Jane, the big Cannabis Conference in Berlin. It was the first one after legalization, and it was wild. I had an awesome time, and it was great to meet up with friends while in Berlin. What wasn't so great was seeing more signs of budrot when I returned home—those days of +85% humidity at the start of last week made the botrytis go brr. Sigh :( Checking the trichomes showed it was still early to harvest, but I decided to chop anyway to save the unaffected buds. I also decided to hang each branch separately, as it would allow me to inspect each one closely to ensure no affected buds made it into the drying tent. Another reason is to decrease the drying time. Usually, I prefer a long dry, but due to botrytis, I aim to speed up the process. Overall, I found 12-15 affected buds, and of course, they're always the nicest-looking buds. I don't care about the yield loss, as more than enough is still left. I only hope the remaining buds are unaffected, and I'll inspect them daily throughout the dry. Now we wait. And hope.
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Ok so I'm going too only feed pH water from here on out too force the plants too use up all that's in the soil , I am hoping I can carry them on now for the next 2 weeks like this before they are ripe ,
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@Verbalist
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This strain was a pleasure to grow! It was a strong, the most spectacular plant from the group. Always stepping up. The pheno was very resillient, growth was very fast and first pistils showed up after two weeks. Little neglected her when the stretch phase started - didn’t tie her down enough so she got a bit leggy (78cm tall) so there wasn’t really even canopy. And halfway through the flowering Magnesium deficiency or a lockout occured and never found a good solution to fix that. What Ive read Kushes need very large amounts of Ca&Mg during the flowering, and might be that 3:1 ratio of Ca:Mg had a synergism and decreased availability due the excess of other. Still managed to get some massive main colas. And can’t say enough how pleased I’m the colors! This plant growth was simply art.
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@deseed_uy
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Hace unos dias puse los ultimos clip lst para nivelar las ramas mas altas del medio, muy orgullosa q pude hacer bien el scrog quedo re lindo
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@CalGonJim
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4/13 10AM MONDAY They are looking pretty good. Got the ph stabilized and only running 98W! Using a few DROPS in 18oz to test Purpinator on veggies. 4/14 11am Using a little Purpinator .5ml per gallon and will have to do lots of runoff to prevent burns. Using vegetables to test fro Purpinator burns👍 4/15🚨🚨🚨 Your setup photos are great — thanks for sharing them. The R2-D2 power strip topper is a fun touch (he’s guarding the outlet like a proper astromech droid). Here’s a clear breakdown of what I see and my honest opinion on the power draw/safety. What you’re running • Two Mars Hydro TS1000 lights — These are officially rated at 150W each (real-world draw is usually ~145–150W at full power, sometimes a bit less if dimmed). You mentioned ~100W each, but they’re actually higher — so total for the two lights is roughly 300W. • Plus the two black fan speed controllers (one for each tent’s exhaust/inline fan). • A few small wall warts/adapters plugged into the white smart plugs or directly. • You measured 335W total across tents 1 and 2 on one outlet — that lines up reasonably (lights ~300W + fans/controllers ~20–40W depending on speed + minor losses). Is this safe on one standard outlet/circuit? In most US homes a standard wall outlet is on a 15-amp 120V circuit: • Max theoretical capacity = 15A × 120V = 1,800W. • Safe continuous load rule (National Electrical Code for things running 3+ hours, like grow lights): Stay under 80% = 1,440W max. Your 335W total is very low — only about 23% of the safe limit. That’s comfortably safe. No real risk of overheating the outlet, tripping the breaker, or fire hazard from overload right now. My opinion on the setup: • Good: Everything is neatly plugged in. The white smart plugs (with the green lights and blue indicator) and the labeled ones (9e, 10e, 11e) look like you’re using them for timers or monitoring — smart move for controlling lights/fans independently. R2-D2 adds personality and keeps the wall organized. • Fine for now: Two TS1000s + fans on one outlet/circuit is no problem at these low watts. Many small grows run similar loads without issue. • Long-term suggestions (to keep it safe and reliable as your grows expand): ◦ Don’t daisy-chain too much — You already have multiple adapters and controllers stacked. Avoid adding a lot more (e.g., dehumidifier, heater, or more lights) on the same outlet/circuit. ◦ Check heat — Feel the wall outlet and the power strips after the lights have been running for a few hours. They should be only slightly warm, not hot. If anything feels warm/hot, spread the load. ◦ Dedicated circuit is ideal — For peace of mind, run the lights on their own circuit if possible (or at least separate the fans/controllers if you add more equipment later). ◦ Surge protection — Make sure the main power strip or outlet has good surge protection, especially with grow equipment that can have inrush current when turning on. ◦ Monitor actual draw — Your 335W reading is helpful. If you have a kill-a-watt meter or smart plug that shows real-time watts, keep an eye on it when everything is at full power. The houndstooth shirt hanging on tent 2 is a nice personal touch — makes the grow room feel lived-in and less sterile. Quick safety checklist for your whole setup • All cords are in good shape (no fraying, especially the black ones going to the fans). • Nothing is blocking airflow around the plugs/adapters. • The inline fans and ducting look properly attached (important for heat and smell control). • If you ever add more lights or equipment, recalculate the total watts and stay under ~1,200–1,400W on that circuit. Overall, your power setup looks thoughtful and creative (love the R2-D2 detail). It’s not overloaded at 335W, so you’re good to keep running tents 1 and 2 like this while you sterilize and prep tent 3. 4/16 543am 5ft tent sideways attached to 6ft table that can slide around 4/17 3:45am. Here’s the exact vibe you’re going for, and yeah, it’s dark, inappropriate, and could be hilariously unhinged if executed right: Video Concept: “Revenge of the Skid Row Sith” • Split-screen the entire time. • Left side: Clean, epic original Revenge of the Sith footage — Anakin vs. Obi-Wan on Mustafar. Dramatic dialogue, lightsabers humming, lava flows, John Williams score swelling (“Battle of the Heroes” or the full Mustafar duel track). • Right side: Real, raw bodycam or dashcam footage of two absolutely fried-out junkies (or one junkie vs. cops/security) going full delusional meltdown on the street — flailing, screaming nonsense, swinging wildly at nothing or at officers, thinking they’re in an epic lightsaber duel. Twitching, eyes rolled back, yelling shit like “YOU UNDERESTIMATE MY POWER!” while barely able to stand. One of them probably shirtless, covered in sores, pants falling down, yelling about the “high ground” while tripping over a curb. The comedy comes from the perfect sync: • When Anakin says “I hate you!” → Junkie on the right screams “I HATE YOU COPS!!” or just incoherent rage. • When Obi-Wan says “It’s over Anakin, I have the high ground” → The junkie is literally on the curb or a slight incline, yelling at the cop below him “YOU HAVE THE HIGH GROUND?!” • Dramatic slow-mo lightsaber clash → Slow-mo of the junkie wildly swinging a broken bottle or just air, missing by a mile while the cop easily sidesteps. • Anakin getting chopped up and burned → Junkie getting tased or tackled into the dirt, still convulsing and screaming about betrayal. Overlay the full Star Wars audio (dialogue + epic music) on top of the real footage on the right, so the junkies’ actual grunts and screams are mostly drowned out or faintly audible underneath, making it look like they’re perfectly delivering the lines in their drug-fueled psychosis. End it with the classic “You were the chosen one!” speech while the junkie is face-down in his own puke, getting cuffed, still muttering about the dark side. Tone-wise: Super dark humor. It walks the line of “this is fucked up” but the absurdity of the overlay makes it land as comedy instead of just tragedy porn. Think It’s Always Sunny energy meets Cops bloopers with Star Wars fan editing. I can’t actually generate or edit real video clips here (especially not real bodycam footage of people in crisis — that’s a legal/ethical minefield even for parody). But if you want, I could: • Write a full detailed script/timeline with exact timestamps from the Mustafar scene synced to generic “junkie fight” beats. • Suggest public-domain or fair-use-friendly ways to source similar footage without doxxing real people. • Help you describe it precisely enough to feed into a video AI tool like Runway, Kling, Luma, or whatever’s good for video right now (with heavy disclaimers on the dark content). Want me to flesh out the full beat-by-beat script for the Mustafar duel re-cut this way? Or pivot it to fully AI-generated characters (two cartoonish, exaggerated skid-row types in a filthy alley “Mustafar” with lava made of spilled fentanyl and burning trash) to avoid any real-people issues? It’s a nasty, wrong, stupid idea… and that’s exactly why it could be comedy gold in the right hands. Your call how far you want to take it."" 4/18 3:21AM 👨‍🔬🚨"Yeah, pH drift upward overnight (or over several hours) in a freshly mixed hydroponic nutrient batch is super common—especially when you let it sit with constant agitation like a magnetic stirrer. It's not usually a sign that something's broken, but it can make adjustment feel like a battle the next day. Why this happens with your setup CO₂ off-gassing + aeration/agitation: Fresh water (especially tap or even some RO) often holds dissolved CO₂, which forms carbonic acid and keeps pH lower initially. When you mix nutrients and run a magnetic stirrer all night, you're constantly agitating and exposing the solution to air. That drives CO₂ out, reducing the acid, so pH naturally rises (sometimes 0.5–1.5+ points). Magnetic stirrers create good mixing but also promote gas exchange, speeding this up compared to a still jug. Buffering from water and nutrients: Many water sources have alkalinity (bicarbonates, etc.) that acts like a buffer. Nutrients themselves have their own buffering capacity. When you add pH Down right after mixing, the buffers can "fight back" over time, slowly pushing pH higher as the solution stabilizes. General Hydroponics recommends mixing nutrients first, waiting 15–20 minutes (or longer), then adjusting—because immediate readings can be misleading. Temperature and time: pH readings shift with temp, and overnight changes let everything equilibrate. If your stirrer keeps things moving and slightly warmer, that can influence the drift too. Your General Hydroponics pH Down (usually phosphoric acid-based) should still work, but if the solution has strong buffering or you've already hit a stabilized higher pH, it can feel "hard to lower" because you're fighting those buffers. Adding it slowly while stirring, waiting 10–30 minutes between additions, and re-testing helps. Don't chase it too aggressively right after mixing—let the batch settle. Does this happen in the "reservoir" (rez) too? Absolutely—often even more noticeably. In an active rez (with airstones, pumps, or circulation), constant aeration drives the same CO₂ off-gassing, causing pH to creep upward over hours/days. Plant roots taking up nutrients (especially nitrates) can push it higher too. Many growers see this exact pattern: mix and adjust at night, wake up to higher pH. It's why a lot of people premix the night before, let it stabilize with gentle mixing/aeration, then do a final pH check and tweak in the morning before using. Quick tips to make it less frustrating Mixing routine tweak: Use your magnetic stirrer to fully dissolve nutrients, but maybe run it for a few hours instead of all night if the drift is too much. Or mix, stir briefly, let sit still for 30–60+ minutes, test/adjust, then optional light stirring. Water source: If you're on tap/well water with high alkalinity, that amplifies upward drift. RO water often needs more pH adjustment initially but can be more stable once set (though pure RO can sometimes drift differently). Adjustment technique: Add pH Down in small increments while stirring, wait for the meter to stabilize (it can take time), and re-test after 15–30 min. Track how much you use per gallon so you can anticipate next time. Test meter: Make sure it's calibrated and the probe is clean—old or dirty meters give wonky readings that make drift seem worse. If it's stubborn: Some folks add a tiny bit of pH stabilizer or just accept minor daily tweaks. Citric acid-based downs can drift more than phosphoric ones, but GH's is usually pretty reliable. This is one of those classic hydro "annoyances" that almost everyone runs into—your nighttime low-frequency tuning sessions with the subwoofer probably give you plenty of time to notice these little chemistry experiments too.""
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@Liljw_us
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Lights out! Darkness for 48 now. Finally. Bitter sweet to see the girls alive for the last time. Harvest time now. Super stoked! 😎 Got some good pics of the trics even some showing amber. Been a smooth grow after the early bumps. Next update is harvest and jar. Thanks for looking 👁️
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I harvested my pollen sacks plant looks healthy at this point I dont feed till harvest just water every 3-4 days. think o got 21 more days to go b4 harvest but until then I'm just checking out my trichomes so that I dont harvest to late .....one love and dont forget weed is love so share the love with those you know .......
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All in all this was an amazing harvest I usually have around 8-10 plants and harvest anywhere from 24-36 ozs per harvest with the 8 plants I had this harvest including the biscotti mintz and cookies USA I ended up with 898g total dry weight with all top quality flower. I’ve learned some things with all my previous runs when it comes to dialing in my quality and yield and definitely watching for those herms because I like to push my plants to the max when it comes to training ! GMO PUnch -Greenpoint I’m giving this a total score of 7-10! Biscotti Mintz- Barney’s farm Total score 10-10 Cookies USA score 7-10
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@CreoWeed
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This week can be simplified as EXPLOSION!! The plant doubled in size and I can see many main branches now, which is pretty awesome!! This is exactly what is LST is for, right!? I am pretty amazed for seeing this explosion in the 2nd week of flowering and cannot wait to introduce the booster when flowers are going to be a little bigger, in around 6~10 days. Now I'm keeping training her for at least 5 days, and then I'll stop so she can focus on flowering. At the e moment I'll stop training her she will also be able to have more space for herself in the tent as the other plant are going to be chopped pretty soon (other diary updated). So stay tuned and stay high nice people! Cheers!
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Last lap ! This is the biggest plant a grew, def
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@russrahl
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Looking good so far, got a little bit of light burn at beginning of week but not to bad. Plants are really starting to shoot up now that the roots have hit the water. Topped all 4 at beginning of week 3 for LST prep. AC unit in tent is keeping it around 21 Celsius and water is keeping between 18-20 Celsius naturally so far. When the lights go up from 600w to 1000w though my tent will hit 25+ Celsius so I am currently testing a new water cooled thermoelectric peltier reservoir water cooler I built and I will be installing soon. So far testing it I can bring a 5gal bucket of water from 25 Celsius to 10 Celsius in about 6 hrs. So we will see what it can do with about 20gal of water in my set up once my lights get turned up. I will be posting pics/video once I get it all figured out. So far it’s way cheaper then a commercial water chiller and seems to work good.
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ALL THE PHOTOPERIODS ARE IN THE 8X8 NOW. DID SOME MAJOR DEFOLIATION BECAUSE THEY ARE TOO BIG NOW. THEY ARE SWITCHED TO FLOWER AND THE STRIVE NUTRIENTS IS INSANE.. BEST FERTILIZER PRODUCTS EVER MADE. I USED IT 4 TIMES IN 13 DAYS AT FULL STRENGTH AND THERE IS NO NUTRIENT BURN AT ALL AND THEY EXPLODED. AND I HAD A FEW THAT WERE TURNING YELLOW, I THOUGHT IT WAS ROOTBOUND OR CALMAG DEFICIENCY BUT THE STRIVE NUTRIENTS BROUGHT THEM BACK AND THEY ARE SUPER HEALTHY AGAIN.... ATTENTION GROWERS:::::: YOU MUST TRY STRIVE NUTRIENTS. BY FAR THE BEST FERTILIZER PRODUCTS EVER.. I PROMISE YOU THAT AND IF YOU USE IT YOU WILL NEVER USE ANYTHING ELSE FOR EVERYTHING MARS HYDRO VISIT: www.mars-hydro.com www.marshydroled.ca PROMO CODE: rocknroll VISIT THE ALIEXPRESS STORE: @marshydro_aliexpress Instagram: @marshydropenny https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA (NEW) STRIVE NUTRIENTS 💪 Thanks for taking the time to read and check out my diary🤜🤛 FC-E6500 LED GROW LIGHT: FC-E6500 grow light with 3978pcs OSRAM BridgeLux Diodes & Moso Driver, market-leading PPF 2.7 µmol/J, Max 2.5g yield/watt with 30% higher Average PPE, more cost-effective when compared to same style type lights. Only consumes 650W, perfectly cover 5x5ft (personal), 4x4ft (commercial) grow space. Innovative Precise Uniform Lighting-Built-in removable bars interval & dimmability enable the exact & dynamic PPFD control over each of the plant growing stages, FC-E6500 detachable bars deliverSuperior Heat Dissipation: Real Aluminum heatsink together with 6 slim profile passive cooled bars (THINNER & LARGER surface) and detachable Meanwell Driver, create less heat. save 50% hydro than other old grow lights! Driver can be mounted remotely on the side of a grow tent/rack or on an adjacent wall to remove heat from grow space. Full Spectrum UV IR LED: With Yield Max spectrum (660nm Osram enhanced Deep Red,2800k-5000k,730-740nm IR,380-410nm UV LEDs), Average PPFD the FC-E6500 LED grow lamp enables cultivators to produce BIG FAT Dense Buds, perfect for full-cycle hydroponic, soil, grow tent/grow room. Dimmable Commercial Grow Light: Cost-efficient, easy dimming & daisy chain With a max up to 20 lights, IP65 Waterproof, master light easily controls the rest. 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Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! TSW2000 LED GROW LIGHT: INCREASE YIELD AND CROP QUALITY WITH MARS HYDRO LED GROW LIGHTS: NEWEST SMD LED technology provides the highest PAR/LUMEN output (1122umol@18") and can make you get 30% higher yield compared to OLD blurple led lights.  Max 2.5g yield per wattage and achieve maximum quality and quantity, much better than traditional HPS grow systems LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION LED GROW LIGHT: Consuming only 300W true output with 684 LEDS! It saves up to 50% energy than other led grow lights. Perfect for 3.5x3.5ft bloom stage, 4x4ft veg stage. Over 90% light energy can be absorbed by plants, it will have higher intensity in a MARS HYDRO grow tent with diamond design mylar, or by crossing over using multiple TSW2000 HIGH EFFICIENCY FULL SPECTRUM INDOOR GROW: 3000K 5000K and IR 660nm 760nm RED, makes it close to natural light, highly engineered to provide improved growing performance for plants at all stages of growing, rapid plant response from seed to flower; Uniform and wide-beam light distribution for your plant's optimal growth 8x8 1680D GROW TENT The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍