Great Strain will run again No Larf all dense nug Great Fade Frosty Purple tint nugs

Plantas en sus últimas semanas. Salieron excelentes.

This week was a very cold week. 13 to 18 degrees during the day and at night like 10 to 13 degrees. Therefore the buds didn't swell properly. Luckly one Critical Kush is still swelling but the other one seems to have slowed down. It's oke, i knew this would happen and the kushes might not finish in time. Might harvest my Shamans at the end of the month. The kushes I will keep until half/end oktober. Since this is only a outside fungrow, I'm not making any effort to heat up the climate by putting heaters arround the plants. Critical Kushes are in their 3th week of flowering. Somehow GD minimalize the videos after putting 10pictures on the diary, Just click on the next picture and click on the right arrow to go to the videos. Have fun looking arround :)

📆 Semana 5: La planta sigue con su ritmo firme y constante. Los cogollos siguen engordando, ahora con más densidad y compactación. La resina se vuelve aún más abundante, cubriendo prácticamente toda la parte superior y algunas hojas vecinas. El aroma se intensifica y se vuelve más complejo, con notas dulces y un toque terroso que empieza a destacar. La planta mantiene un consumo estable y adecuado de agua y nutrientes, sin mostrar estrés ni señales negativas. La estructura aguanta bien el peso, gracias a una ramificación sólida y entrenudos aún cortos para lo que suele ser una auto XL. La floración sigue en pleno apogeo, y se ve que la calidad apunta alto. Todo sigue marchando como debe, y la cosecha promete ser muy buena. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

Gave water at 6.5ph will feed on week 3. I think I've had the light to close. On day 10 pictures you can see the leaves look like there burnt 🤔 or that's what I'm guessing it is. I've raised the light to 1meter it's only at around half power at the moment and showing 21000 lux.

Well this was the last week! Had to chop her for various reasons but she’s pretty much done! I will let the pics and videos do the talking! I will update in 7 days with details of the harvest weights etc 😎

56 days!!!! It seems that her growth is coming to an end, and now she will devote her energy to flowers:) she looks really beautiful, I watered her for two days with 3 liters of 6.3 ph water with biobizz nutrients ;) 1st watering with food 2nd watering just pure water :) good luck to everyone;).

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

Shes getting a lil taller than my Pluto cut f3. Both are the same age. Not to mention this one almost died. Doing well I'd say.

High temps, plants are extremely short and progress very low. Added some rhino skin to help.

The og and moby dick xxl is fast grow plant the color is very beautiful like green smerald. I hope this plant whit the big po will revitalize becouse the soil didn’t come in time!the delivery was late of one week!

It's growing...

9/30: All that remain are the 4 x FFT #4 clones. They are foxtailing a little, but getting so frosty. They've senesced pretty well on their own, but I flushed them with 8 gallons each today anyway...warm tap water with LiquidSoil. I'll harvest them on Sunday I think. 10/3: I gave them a little water early in the day to keep them turgid, and late at night I did a wet trim on all 4 of them and put them in the dark until late tomorrow night. Then, I'll harvest and wash them and this crop will be a done deal.👍 10/5: Early a.m., I cut them down, washed them, and hung them to drip dry. That's a wrap! I'll do harvest reports in another week or so, but early impressions of FFT's 2,4, and 10 are quite good. 👍

Day 35 Flower Hey Growers. Things are going well here, other than the delicious funk that is emanating from my house. The carbon filter is not able to keep up with these beauties and the FastBuds flowering at the same time. It’s also about 5 years old so…..time for a new one. It also doesn’t help that the 4 ft of snow around the house is melting and I have to have the grow room door open for the sump line, but whatever. These girls are just cruising along. I watered with 950 ppm and 1650 was the runoff. I’m noticing a bit of tip burn but I hear that normalish for full spectrum leds. They make the plants draw extra mag, seems like the Epsom is helping with that. I’m getting to a point where I may need to water twice a day to achieve denser quality buds, the next couple weeks will dictate that. Hand watering hydro is a terrible idea!!!!!!!!!! Too late to turn back. I am running the Vipar Spectra XS2000 at the recommended 16” at 100%. I’m also alternating from the right to left side of the tent each day like a poor man’s light mover. I’m noticing leaf edge curl (tacoing) but it’s nothing major and they pointing upwards. They seem happy. All in all I’m happy with how it’s going, just gonna keep it on cruise control and tuck or remove leaves causing problems. Happy Growing 🌱

Теперь я начинаю понимать еще одно преимущество выращивания методом ScrOG - по сути больше ничего не нужно делать, все ветки на своих местах. Даже высоту лампы я не корректировал, пока меня всё устраивает. Заметно замедлился рост, и мне уже очевидны мои незначительные ошибки по установке решетки, которые я обязательно перечислю в итоговых выводах. В начале следующей недели я собираюсь убрать лишние веерные листься, и подчистить низы, тогда мы и увидим финальную структуру кустов. Характерные сативные листья пока оправдывают мои ожидания, начинается самое интерсное😉 Спасибо, что заглянули, и будьте здоровы! 🙏 Продолжение следует ...😶

Everything is going great, I also think my plants have stopped stretching/growing, although really close to the lights. I am not seeing lightburn, is this is something should be concerned about? The leaf temp is about 75 degree under the light. Also just sticking with AN Bloom, Big Bud, Bud Candy. Should I be using B52? Also is overdrive worth it? it seems expensive for two weeks worth of work? One more question? Is superThrive bad in flowering? I read somewhere it could make bad things happen in flower because of the hormones it has. thus my question about B52.

Comenzamos su 2°semana aportando los nutrientes principales Deeper Underground de Top Crop para su sistema radicular añadiendo 1ml/l al agua de pH6 Día 9: La pequeña ya alcanzó los 5cm y sigue creciendo bastante bien. Ahora lo importante es que cree un sistema radicular en perfectas condiciones.

Very strong week. Stopped Rhizotonic. Began LST. After feeding the gelato just pH water the paleness subsided and more colour came back to the plant. Gelato starting to grow bushy, strong growth from both plants.

So This week was the same as the last really, It seems all I have to do is sit back and watch these ladies do their thing! Ive not gone full on with the bloom supplements or PK yet as only 2/5 of the GG are seriously flowering. The other 3/5 GG are now Finally showing some signs of flower and some tops are starting to build and lowers producing more pistils each day! The Stardawgs continue to explode, even some friends who were sceptical about the performance of the Quantum board LED's have been flow away by the results. All of the buds seem to be building dramatically top to bottom which no shortage of frost! Macro shots on the way!!