1/12 4:14AM MONDAY!!!!!!!! CBG IS GOOD!1 LOWERD THE WATTAGE, EFFICIENCY IS GOOD. GREAT WHITE MYCO HAS INCREASED UPTAKE AND AND!!!! PHOTOSYNTHESIS EFFICIENCY ......FUCKING AWESOME 💪💪💪💪 1/12 4:47AM I asked GROK: are samsung leds on my mars hydro lights seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says, I lowered the lights again by a few watts? Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/13/26 7:47AM BRUTAL WEEK FOR THE MOP AND BUCKET GUYS AT MUDRUROS COMPOUND 1/13, 11:22 AM banana purple punch auto RF three is doing really great. I haven’t really needed to do anything. I decided not to top. I didn’t want to do anything except light stress training. I think she’s gonna turn out just great. Her stock is one of the thickest. She’s just perfect.😍😍😍

Das Fimmen hat wie erwünscht sein Ergebnis gezeigt. Habe bis auf die untersten 2 Arme, alle erneut gefimmt. Das Gewächshaus 12m2 soll in den nächsten 10 Tagen ankommen. Die Damen werden dann Anfang Juli ins Gewächshaus wandern und Ende Juli mit einer Plane ab 17/18 Uhr abends abgedeckt um die Blüte frühzeitig einzuleiten. Happy growing;)

Hey everyone at week 4 know and wow have these girls grown early this week I applied some LST and all took really well to say it was my first time trying this

A lot more happening this week! As shown in the pics, and as suspected, I have a manganese deficiency. I've been keeping my pH level at 6.2 in coco, manganese is taken up best by the plant below 6.0 pH. Dropping my ph level to 5.8 pH, and flushing with lower pH, hopefully it will solve the issue over the course of a few days. I made a new frame for a SCROG, with a "custom bend" in the CPVC pipe on both ends. The bend will allow me to take advantage of the slack material in the sides of my 4x4 tent. I'd previously taken 4" out of all the upright poles to shorten the tent so it would fit in the room due to low ceilings, meaning I had extra slack in my tent walls. The bend in the net frame pushes the sides of the tent out to 5 foot wide. My first SCROG net was a 6" mesh from Amazon, immediately knew I wanted a smaller mesh. Next time around I built my own with a 4" mesh and used the 4" for several grows. This time I decided to go with an even smaller, 3" mesh, and already I like it better. I don't really see myself going much smaller than 3" mesh though. It seems to work well, and any smaller and it may be too tight trying to work the plant through the opening sometimes, which if not careful, will damage the plant. I usually use a & gal cloth pot, grow off rules stated we 0had to use a 5 gal pot. Seeing as I only had 7 gal on hand, I was stuck picking up a Root Farm 5 gal cloth pot locally, as you can see, the roots didn't really stay contained, nor did they "air prune", i had to tear them off before installing the net above. On the last day of week 6 I finally got my net installed, and the plant SCROGged. I should have put the net in place a week or two earlier, it would have been easier to manipulate the plant, however the plant will still have a week to recover. I tie the net in place above the plant, and slowly lower it down, as I bend and super crop the main stalk over parallel to the net, and work all the branches underneath and spread them out. As the plant grows I'll continue to push branches back down through the net and moving them out to the next hole. This will greatly increase yields by allowing light to more bud sites, keeping all buds the same height and thus the same distance from the light. small budsites on a vertical branch, will transform into their own cola once the branch is laid on its side. Instead of a Christmas tree type of plant, with one large main cola, and smaller and smaller buds as you move further down the plant, you end up with a bunch of colas that are all close to the same size, and more importantly, the same level of maturity. The SCROG method, combined with super cropping, and defoliation has greatly increased my yields. As the plant is getting worked into the net, I'll defoliate where necessary, ie a huge fan leaf covering bud sites, however for the next several weeks I'll be defoliating so mush every night or two, systematically trimming off all fan leaves, and stripping everything below the net, and any small bud sites that wont produce well. Usually by the time I'm half way through the flower stage there are no big fan leaves left to be found. It helps with light penetration, which results in a higher quality, higher quantity yield, as well as airflow, which will help prevent White Powdery Mildew and other molds etc. Once a fan leaf is 14 days old, its ability to photosynthesize light, starts to degrade. Once it reaches a certain point, the leaf drains more energy from the plant, than it's giving the plant. My best yields have been from heavily defoliated plants, my last grow I couldn't physically defoliate quite as heavily as usual, and I ended up about 25-30% less bud than expected

Smell Increased a lot this week and got that real sticky-icky-ickyness to the touch now it’s like glue :) and smells fire… So fruity and sweet took a few more fans off possibly almost all apart from a few lol got a bit aggressive with her so she paid me back by giving me hives or whatever the bumps on my arms I always get are haha 😂 but yeah to allow the lighter green lower bits to get a little More light for the last few weeks 💚🔥💪

Day 48

Week 4 June 7 plants looking healthy and stretching

We are almost there! Second ripening week and after this i will get with AN final flash. I'm giving half the power to the lights for an hour in the morning and one in the evening, a kind of sunrise and sunset, removed the heater from the tank so as to simulate the arrival of the autumn cold, the tops have a purple color. everything seems to flow thanks for your visit here buddies wish you the best 💚🌱🤜🏼🤛🏼 Finally i've taked some smartphone camera pics only smartphone flashlight and grow lights off. I feel it will be around 300g harvested, what do you think about it? 🤔🤓

Great to grow - defoliate like a champ. Check out the sea of beam on thegreenleopard.com Twitter going wild for it - really nice addition to grow space - would take this strain to the moon - check out the light combo - world wide !

Bola Mintz by Anesia Seeds Wet toiletpaper in ziplock bag method. Old recommendation from a fellow GD grower and works really good. Lets wait for germination, i will update the diary with pictures when it has some root going on. Also posted some pictures of my line-up for the coming months --update1- took 4 days to get a nice little root to transplant into the soil... So we made a nice video of the transplant from paper towel in ziplock bag to coco --update2 - 1 day later i noticed something was coming out of the soil...added some pics of it

Lights to 11.5 hrs, temps dropped, light raised, let's finish! I think next week it's time to cut them. More branches are falling over from #2 (back right) and it's yellowing nicely. #3 (front right) could use 2 or 3 more weeks but I don't think I will take it that long. It's a low yielder but its structure is very sativa. Smells good. #1 (back left) and #4 (front left) smell roughly the same, #1 makes very heavy branches and dense tops. Its looks are deceiving, hiding its yield under big leaves. Thanks for the interest. I hope your grow is as lucky as this current one. It has been really fun to experience the different phenotypes of SSH. Stay tuned for the harvest report. Hopefully I can take some better pictures.

still waiting for the cure

Hello and good Luck browsers 💝💯🍋‍

Empezando la floracion chavales

Fiz o transplante pros vaso de 25L e apliquei técnica do main-lining

The start of the week and no problems. I'm thinking to do 1 more transplanting when she have 6nodes and after she recover from that im going for mainline for cola's. Day 26 and transplanting the Girls in to there final 35l pot. Day 27 the girls looking very healthy and already have 6nodes, so I topped the girls by the 3node and removed all grow below the 3node( step 1 mainline)

As always with GreenHouseSeeds I had successful germination within 24 hours then potted and placed under 80w LED white strip light and we saw her first set of baby leaves within 72 hours. With a little help from my trusty greenhouse Bio Enhancer I live in the UK and I'm lucky enough to have decent tap water at a PH of around 7, So I lower this to around 5 before adding 0.5g of Bio Enhancer . I water the coco & seed with this mixture only and I haven't had a failed germination for a very long time. I really swear by this powder feed, it's also organic and OMRI certified.