Ein pheno konnte schon geerntet werden von der fast Diesel von Izi

This week I'm going to talk a little bit about the 2 gal pots I leave outdoors. Since they're going to be indoors now, I've assembled a fertilizer rack and the bottom compartment is perfect for a cage with all the plants I have. With a length of 1.5m, width 65cm and height of 1m, I will use 4 led bulbs 50w and 2 full spectrum LEDs 36w long 1.2m. 272w / ~ 1m2. 2/3:Plant the plants indoors and lst them. 4 led bulb 50w 5/3:Run off all the trees, as it was soaked with rain water when left outside. is still the old nutritional dose. 6/3: Today I received the led light I ordered. I perfect my design and let the tree in the cage out and lst. 9/3:I feel everything is perfect today, I reduce their lighting time to 12/12. I will cut off all the fan leaves from the stem of the 2gal pots and prune all the small branches of the 1gal pot. in this pruning I will trim them as much as possible. It's been 37 days since the seed and I think they're ready for flowering. I need to flower them urgently because in the next 2 months the weather can be as hot as 40 degrees, and I really have no way to reduce their temperature. I would probably have them flower for 7 to 8 weeks to retain maximum resin. a few days before high, I fliming an NL plant, I experimented with this technique and I feel that they have been very successful since the fliming plants have a much larger stump than other plants. I really like this technique, as it will save me the small space I currently have without having toppings. With just a few simple steps I have got a really big stump and still keep the biggest main bud of the tree. I hope each plant can give me 20-25 grams of dried marijuana.

12/22 - all 3 seeds of critical kush went to shit, 1 didn't pop and 2 molded before the root came out of the shell...no bueno. I decided to run Purple Kush instead. I ran this before in my original crappy cabinet so I'm hoping for much better results this time around! ...growing so fast!!! 12/23 - and now it's on its own for a week!!!

If you are lonely when you are alone, then you are in bad company. Bee pollen is considered a “vitamin bomb” due to the presence of almost all vitamins with an average of 0.02–0.7% of its total content, with a higher amount of water-soluble than fat-soluble vitamins. Bee pollen contains vitamins A, D, E, B1, B2, B6, and C. It also provides minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, copper, manganese, iron, and selenium, I mixed a bunch of that with some honey and RAW cane molasses to make a nice big bucket of tea. A family friend who is a beekeeper was kind enough to share some honey. The nutritional content of raw honey is impressive and includes high levels of protein, amino acids, B vitamins, calcium, manganese, potassium, magnesium, zinc, and iron, as well as various polyphenolic antioxidants. I am loading up nature's finest sugars, and sweet things, Honey & Mollases. UV-B-induced DNA damage (CPDs and 6–4 PPs) can be repaired efficiently by photolyases. Pyrimidine dimers can be repaired by nucleotide excision repair (NER), or bypassed by replicative polymerases (Britt 2004). The expression of the CPD photolyase (PHR) gene is induced by UV-B light dependent on UVR8 signaling pathway, and is also induced by blue and UV-A light (Li et al. 2015) https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s44154-022-00076-9?fromPaywallRec=true Old but gold. The camera picks up far more light than there is during the night cycle, camera is showing bright pink violet collages but my eyes barely see a thing, about 0.25ppfd in that tent overnight. Have been tweaking the spectrum of moonlight/intensity and watching the responses overnight. Tweak, tweak, tweak all week. PAR is 400-700nm, Overnight UVA in the tent is all 365nm and 385nm, so the meter only picks up a fraction of the light curve that makes it photosynthetically active past 400nm. Of the light in the tent, 0.25ppfd is from UVA Looks like It makes them 🕺 🕺 💃 all night. Better flower soon or ill be screwed for space, they are stretching, but is it "the stretch"? She has fire in her belly. Growing crops with insufficient light (i.e., below “optimal,” as defined here) limits the yield potential, which in turn wastes the other production inputs including labour, water, nutrients and electricity. As lighting fixture is one of the most expensive investment of the production, what is the relationship between light intensity and yield? Potter and Duncombe (2012) grew cannabis plants with varying canopy-level PPFDs during the flowering stage and found that increasing PPFD from 400 to 900 μmol·m−2·s−1 increased yield an average of 1.3 times higher, across seven cultivars, with no light intensity treatment effects on floral cannabinoid concentrations. Vanhove et al. (2011) found that cannabis yields were 1.3 to 3.1 times higher (depending on cultivar) when plants were grown under approximately 1000 μmol·m−2·s−1 compared to approximately 450 μmol·m−2·s−1 during the flowering stage.It was predicted that cannabis yield would exhibit a saturating response to increasing Light intensity, thereby signifying an optimum light intensity range for indoor cannabis production. However, a new research from Morrison (2021), after 81 days‘ experiment, found that When plants grew under LI ranging from 1200 to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1 provided by light emitting diodes (LEDs), inflorescence yield increased linearly as LI increased up to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1. "Cannabis will not stop flowering if the lights are turned on for a few minutes once or twice during the 2-month-long flowering cycle. If a light is turned on for 5 to 30 minutes—long enough to disrupt the dark period—on 3 to 5 con­secutive nights, plants will start to revert to vegetative growth." "Less than one half of one foot-candle of light (0.1ppfd) from sunlight will prevent cannabis from flow­ering. That is a little more light than is reflected by a full moon on a clear night. Well-bred indica-dominant plants will revert within three days. Sativa-dominant plants take four to five days to revert to vegetative growth. Once they start to revegetate, it can take from four to six ad­ditional weeks to induce flowering again!" Guess ill find out my answer soon.

Week 14 - August 13 Back from holidays. One week without carrying plants. All is Ok ✅ the Blumat irrigation system worked perfectly, Aphids are totally eradicated: the Garlic mixture is a miracle. 🐛I found 5 caterpillars on 2 plants: it makes lot of damage on a Bubble Gum I didn’t mention in the diary, but the other are safely. caterpillars are the Enemy N°1 at this point: must check everyday. I found 5 caterpillars on 2 plants: it makes lot of damage on a Bubble Gum I didn’t mention in the diary, but the other are safely. caterpillars are the Enemy N°1 at this point: must check everyday. Presence of leafminer flies but nothing important. -Royal Moby, seriously injured by sunburn and aphids aggression: recovering good, amazing stretch (sativa dominant) 140cm high , new branches are healthy. Flowering stage not engaged. -GMOxZombie Kush, was pretty shocked by aphids and sunburn too but problems are resolved: the plant is not too bad, starting a pre flowering period. 115cm -Flash Back #2 start flowering. Perfectly healthy, no pests, diseases or deficiency. Gook stretch last weeks, lot of ramifications and booming sites.130cm -Brake Pad Breath is the most advanced with a flowering stage engaged since 2 weeks. Super heathy, efficient bushy structure with lot of branches: my Favorite! 🌞Daylight 14h15 - 7h05 / 21h11 Around 26 to 32°C this week, hot night, sunny day, little bit of humidity. 💦Watering 1,5L / 3 days 💪Nutrients: Master Grower Floraison by Hydropassion

📆 Semana 6 ¡Qué semanita se ha marcado la Grease Monkey! Ya se nota que está bien metida en floración: los cogollos empiezan a coger buena forma, cada vez más apretados y resinosos. Tiene ese rollo pegajoso que tanto nos gusta, y las hojas cercanas a las flores ya brillan con tricomas por todos lados. Estoy siguiendo con la gama de XpertNutrients, que le está sentando de lujo. No he tocado mucho la receta esta semana, solo afinando un poco el riego para adaptarme al ritmo que lleva. Se nota que está en su punto dulce. Los Adlite siguen demostrando que son una inversión top. Gracias a la buena distribución de luz, incluso las ramas secundarias están desarrollando cogollos decentes, no solo las puntas. En cuanto al ambiente, las temperaturas se han mantenido suaves, entre 22 y 25 °C, y la humedad está en torno al 55%, un poco más alta de lo ideal, pero por ahora sin señales de problemas. Estoy ventilando bien y con el ojo encima por si acaso. El aroma empieza a ser un espectáculo: dulce y cremoso, con ese fondo a gas tan típico de la Grease Monkey. Los tricomas están en su mayoría lechosos, así que aún queda tiempo para que siga engordando y afinando perfil. Crecimiento firme, flores con presencia y resina a punta pala… ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

I'm on week 4 I've been keeping it light on nutes. I've noticed slow growth it seems compared to others in week 4. Also I think my plants are stretching they are skinny but the stem is beginning to get thick. I wanted to LST but I don't think they are strong enough yet. Any insight as to why they may be growing this way would be appreciated!

Holy shit we boomin'. I actually had to super crop (i think that's what i did) bc one red poison was getting so tall. I had to pull her to 90 degrees... she's already back reaching for the light - I'm not sure what impact this has on my grow, but I think it will be a positive one. She was going to be insanely tall if I hadn't done this.

This project is kind of experiment with e-bay cheap led 150w ufo light. Week two, to be honest wasn't so spectacular, but I found out that plant was developing it's root system ( i'll try to post picture of roots next time). Week three went surprisingly well, the plant grown over twice of it's last week size. I'm looking forward for next week effects - the cheapo light with DWC system may bring some spectacular results.

Today I moved two plants to their final pot (3.5 gal). Each of the plants has 2 nicely formed nodes. The root structure looked very strong. They were started in Pro-Mix HP and transplanted into the same medium. I just sprayed PH balanced water on the top of the soil to help them acclimate to the new pot. I still have 2 plants that have stopped growing so I am going to leave them in the seedling chamber till they get a little farther along.

From today I started washing with clean water without fertilizers. Hopefully purple will become even sharper. It smells strong, but it dissolves easily with a carbon filter. Without any problems, it grew very well.

Week 6 for AK Triple Haze by SSSC She's definitely my shortest auto that's outside ATM but anyway her main cola is bulking up nicely. Aiming for her to be done by week 9... but lets see😇 Still no signs of her needing any extra nutrition @naturelivingsoiluk @naturelivingsoil is definitely keeping their word of water only feeding😍 Was watered once last week. No pest issue either with her! The leaf rub atm giving her some light hazy smells which is appealing. Already looking forward to seeing how she's doing in a weeks time😍 BRING ON THE BULKING!

Harvest time, chopped this lady and she's now drying in the mesh rack. Sticky buds, lots of trichomes. I'll update in 6-7 days with the dry weight and initial smoke report.

Alright let's do this !! The seeds were soaked for a few hours in a KNF seed soak, and placed in paper towel. Looks like there are twins in there. Separated them and will try to grow the smallest one. When germinated they moved into a jiffy and eventually in their final pot once roots poked through the jiffy. The final pots are 40L of different soil mix. One is a very good commercial mix and the other is my own mix. Seeds really isn't my strong suit so they always tend to struggle a bit until well established.

PABLO ESCOBAR / DIVINE SEEDS WEEK #10 OVERALL WEEK #9 VEG This week she's doing good I've been training her with LST and she's been topping a few times to keep her size under control she's had no issues in her grow up to this point!! Stay Growing!!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! Thank you DIVINE SEEDS!!! BUDTRAINER.COM BUD CLIPS PABLO ESCOBAR / DIVINE SEEDS

Week 10 - Second Week of Flowering 🌸 As week two of flowering begins, the garden’s growth is unstoppable! These ladies are thriving, stretching up while staying beautifully vibrant and green. Every inch of this tent is optimized—each plant is soaking up light, nutrients, and water precisely as they need, filling the room with energy. Room Conditions 🌡️ • Temperature: 27.3°C • Humidity: 62.6% • CO₂ Levels: 800 ppm • VPD: 1.36 kPa (excellent range for robust flowering) • Lighting Intensity: 818 PPFD Solution & Medium 💧 • Solution Temp: 21.5°C | TDS: 470 ppm | pH: 6.02 • Medium: Moisture 100% (recently dried to 67%), TDS 510 ppm, Temp 22.5°C The “dry-out” to 67% was a strategic move, helping boost nutrient uptake and root strength. Meanwhile, our slight increase in reds seems to be having the desired effect, nudging these ladies further along in the flowering process. Eye Safety & LED Lighting 🌞🕶️ With powerful LED systems like the ThinkGrow and ICL-300, eye protection is critical. LED grow lights emit high-intensity light across the full spectrum, including intense UV and infrared components that are not easily detected by the human eye. Long-term exposure without adequate protection can lead to eye strain, and in extreme cases, damage to vision. • Blue Light Hazard: LEDs often have elevated levels of blue light, which can harm the retina over time if proper precautions aren’t taken. • UV Protection: Even low doses of UV can accumulate and harm eyes, so grow glasses with UV protection are essential for any indoor gardener. Investing in quality grow room glasses can help protect from glare, UV, and infrared rays, making plant care safer and more comfortable. Lighting Enhancements: ICL-300 In-Depth 🔆 The ICL-300 is our newest addition, specifically designed for inner canopy illumination. This LED offers a targeted light boost under the canopy, enhancing flower growth in lower and shaded areas—ideal for maximizing yield and light efficiency. • Dual Spectrum Technology: The ICL-300 provides a custom spectrum designed to penetrate deeper into the plant canopy, promoting robust bud formation throughout. • Enhanced Light Distribution: With strategically positioned diodes, the ICL-300 reduces shadowing and balances light distribution to all parts of the plant. • Energy Efficiency & Heat Management: This light is designed to be energy-efficient, running cooler and reducing the risk of heat stress within the grow space. The inner canopy light gives the plants exactly what they need, particularly during the flower stage when bud sites deep in the canopy can benefit from more direct exposure. However, after noticing slight leaf burn on some plants, I’ll hold off a bit longer before fully integrating this light to ensure optimal adjustment. Looking Forward 🌟 As we continue dialing in conditions, it’s all about balance, precision, and taking proactive steps to optimize every aspect of the grow environment. We’ll keep a close watch on the canopy height, and next week, I’ll aim to fine-tune the light integration even further with the ICL-300. P.S. - ICL-300 and CO₂ Sensor 🌱 The TrolMaster CO₂ Sensor (MBS-S8) has been crucial for real-time CO₂ adjustments, ensuring the plants get exactly what they need without constant monitoring. Combined with the ICL-300’s spectrum flexibility, these tools make an unbeatable setup, allowing for nuanced control over plant growth and development. As always, a huge thanks to the Grow Fam for the tips, support, and enthusiasm! I’m excited to see what these next weeks will bring as these plants reach their full flowering potential. Stay tuned for more updates, and don’t forget: eye safety first, growers! 🌞🌿 Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and so joyful with you all in my life 🙏
 With true love comes happiness 💚🙏 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so 💚 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

Photos are taken on May 28 - June 9, 2018. Got new seed on May 21 Germinated on 24, sprouted on 26 check myother grow diary for this grow. I wanna maximize light and space so I veg them on same tent.Transfer my plants from 3x3x6 to 5x5x6 grow tent on June 5, 2018.

Throughout the week I top dressed each with 3 tbsp of dry fert and more super soil. Giving em cal mag water also just because my other set of plants want it as well. Bit of discoloration throughout the canopy, since these girls only got 3-4 weeks left I'm not worried. Might try a different combo of dry ferts with a higher P/K for flowering since they went through veg no prob. Got another cycle of Mephisto illuminautos on week 1 so I'll post those for my next grow. Think the Gelato will be ready to be pulled in 1-2 weeks and the NL/LSD in 3-4. peace