Only 11cm vertical growth this week. Flowering stretch slowing down and she's bushed out so much!!!

Les colas commencent a gonflé j'ai enlevé les grosses feuilles pour une meilleure qualité lumineuse. Pas signe de surengraissage(les pointe des feuilles ne sont pas décolorés), plante petite mais compacte avec une odeur d'agrume verte laissons la dans sa course pour la coupe de DuctchPassion@ la suite au prochain épisode.

Giorno 35 Tutto perfetto 👌 Ec a 1,74 piante in salute qualche insetto innocuo qua e là. Ci vediamo settimana prossima 🖐️

Day 57, very happy so far, plants are just taking everything they get, a very easy strain to grow. Added Bud Explosion this week as flower has kicked in, really looking forward to the next month as temps drop in my part of the world. Thinking of letting temps be a little cooler in grow area as they seem to enjoy it. Thanks to those who comment I enjoy hearing from other fellow growers, learning new things and becoming better at growing this magnificent plant. Happy growing ✌️

Week 7 and 8 in the bag. One more light feed then the flush. Fall colors are coming in nicely and they are starting to purple up. They seem to have wanted a bit more water this week, had one plant start to droop before the watering but everyone perked up. Last dose of Great White microbes this week as well.

Added some CO2 to help with photosynthesis while at higher temps. These ladies really blew up at the end of last week and this week! The smell has really starting to be noticeable and pistols / flowers are finally showing! Side note I finally got more seeds to replace the one I lost early on. These ladies are really starting to become a treasure. Ended my LST this week.

**** Wed 8 Jan - day 57 **** Nothing to report yet **** Fri 10 Jan - day 59 **** Red plant is looking near the finish - decided to try a bit of defoliation - see pics She's about a foot high but lots of bud - a little bonsai wonder I now realize it's using the flash makes all the bud look so frosty... ! Actually there are lots of nice colors coming through in the buds, and a little purple in the leaves Giving Black a bit longer before I do the same **** Mon 13 Jan - day 62 **** I gave Black a bit of a trim the other day - she's about 40 cm and must weigh double the other Red is looking very close to finish - see today's video No feeding of any kind Water is from the tap at PH 7, they are drinking a liter a day, Black a bit more even **** Tue 14 Jan - day 63 **** The top of Red is starting to show some blueberry colors - now I'm interested in what happens if I leave her longer Both seem to have stopped growing some time ago - maybe concentrating on flowering Black plant is I guess a week behind Red, but Red really peaked early Looking forward to the final stages Having done scientific tests, I can affirm this is going to be pretty good That's week 9, cheers all

The buds are dense,fat & frosty 😋 Some purple color😈 Trichomes 10-20% amber🔬 The smell is DIVINE! Cookie & eucalyptus🍪❄️Super fresh👌

I notice her Ovules are very large in size. Quite unlike any plant I have seen before. I don't know if this is a 'primative' strain but it's quite unusual. So far: 147g wet Day 77 - Staggered harvest started. When I see a couple of amber trichomes on a bud I will harvest it and leave the rest. Day 84 - The other colas are getting there slowly. I don't know if it is the heat stressing her out 30 c in tent. We have a heatwave here right now.... Day 84 - 2.11g dry ground up Day 89 - 1.72g dry ground up Day 91 - What is left of her. She looks a mess lol. Day 94 - Final harvest trimmed up and drying. Final dry total to follow in a few days. Day 100 - Final weigh up. Well we got 72.46g on the scales today. I never did wet weight after the first harvest so dismiss that. In total I got 74.57g. It is a very small harvest for me but I don't think this plant has the genetics to be a big yielder.000

En esta actualización se incluyen 2 semanas ya que por trabajo me fue imposible añadir la semana anterior. El día 15 de Agosto recibió la segunda pulverización de Bacillus Thuringiensis para prevenir el ataque de las orugas. Sigo alternando riego de agua un día con riego de Ascophillum Nodosum al día siguiente. He dejado de regar con Cannazym.

Hello my friends, Start to be smeel end, This end week more and more milky trichromes. I've stop to give fertilizer this week, I'll start flush. I think my yellow leaves was the senescence, thanks for help guy 👍. Have a good week, and see you next week. Enjoy mt friends.

2024-06-22 Yesterday i had to Harvest them, weather was very bad . The are having tropical Climate in the raintime, very Humid and rainy, sometimes changes to cold and windy so very bad Season until now. They would have needed 7 days more to ripe perfect. But they started to mold. so i harvested them quickly, and sorted out all moldy stuff this is very sad. Buds are more open and supersticky. you can see with eyesight the loooong and dense Trichomes, iam going to add more Pics if they are cured and i add some Pics from the microscope. i give this Strain 8 from 10 Points for Outdoor Growing, because of their tendency to catch mold , despite the fct they were under a Roof, But yeah we had avery cold, rainy and humid Season i really like to grow them again, but indoors!!! because of their Juicyness

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Week 8 of flower is in the books and this show is quickly coming to an end. I said last week we had about 7-10 days and I was spot on at the 10 day mark. I was only wrong about the order. The cheese is ready to chop before the rest and the gorilla cookies, cherry Bomb and lemon haze will follow in due course. The cheese is a beast and it’ll take a little time to get it all run through the bowl trimmer. At least the big one goes first. Her tallest colas have foxtailed like mar, despite the late supercrop. You can tell where the sweet spot for the light is at about 10” distance from the canopy. Any closer than that and the tails begin to show prominently. It’s a good example of just how close you can get to these fixtures with a little bit of prior experience. It’s been noted for the next run😎👍😎. The res. is on an h2o2 only flush for the remainder until the rest are ready to come down. Not a moment too soon either - the pollen chucking project has stalled out waiting for these girls to finish and now that we’ll have a little extra room, we can start running our cuts in the aerocloner🤟. Not long at all now folks. Thanks for tagging along through all this. Learned a bunch about this system and we’re back to hardware mode to make some serious improvements for the next run🤙😎. I love hardware mode😉. Background/Repetitive Nonsense The strain line up on this grow is look’n quite saucy 😈. We’ve got 2 FB strains this time around - Gorilla Cookies (seems we always have some GSC cross in the works). Mainly because the colours look stellar and remind me of a sugar breathe we did last year that was 🔥. The other FB is their original Cheese strain... because we already smoked all our cheese... and we really like our cheese...😉. Emerald triangle was kind enough to include a freebie of Lemon Haze. Wasn’t really big on the list but we haven’t done a haze strain to write home about yet so worth a go👍. The last is a Cherry auto from Bomb seeds that we’ve been trying to get to for months. Let’s just hope that she’s not a dud like the last bean. The new digs for this run are courtesy MarsHydro👊. Their 2x4 single grow tent, paired with a shiny new 240w QB courtesy ViparSpectra. These folks were kind enough to discuss a collaboration and as a result, here we are to test out the gear with an inaugural run of autos. Each week, we’ll try to expand on some of the benefits of each, as well as any limiting factors or considerations that need attention when pondering purchase. Already I can say that both are high quality products in terms of overall craftsmanship. MarsHydro 2x4 Grow Tent: Excellent construction in terms of durability. Reinforced stitching on the zippers and corners ensures zero tearing. Conveniently placed screen vents and intake/exhaust ports. The ceiling exhaust port only exists on the right side. Perfect for me but not great if you’re running exhaust from the top on the left side (left side wall port makes up for this however). The aluminum frame is rigid enough to support the weight of the lights and accessories. Once you have some weight in the tent, she’s go’n nowhere and you can assemble and break it down in record time if moving or stashing the grow op. Only limiting factors I’ve noticed is that temp. Control will be an issue for a tent. It just doesn’t have the same insulating ability as a wood cabinet or other permanent enclosed space. No worries, this is offset by a small desktop heater and keeps the environment exactly where desired. The other issue was a production problem - the ceiling vent was accidentally stitched into the corner seams on the assembly line. Again, no real issue - just pulled it out with no damage or fraying to the tent or port👍. Website link here: https://www.mars-hydro.com/grow-tent/buy-mars-hydro-grow-tent-24x48x70-2-x-4-cabinet-closet-grow-box-upgraded-diamond-1680d-mylar-for-sale ViparSpectra 240w Quantum Board: This thing is sleek and slick in terms of design. Closest comparable to it that I’ve seen would be spiderfarmers line of qbs. They feature the same top-o-the-line components and roughly similar spectrums. Where VS takes the advantage is in the convenience of the dimmer nob which is easily accessible and works great at 50% with no strobing👍. The heat sink is also larger which contributes to lower temps. That’s not a good thing in my case but beneficial for most folks. I can already say that this will be a great fixture through all stages of growth. Where I know this light will excel will be in the veg. Stage for sure. Dimming function gives seedlings a much better chance of success with the ability to use lower lighting levels early on and the coverage area on a 240w is great. The average grower will find this panel suitable and fitting to their needs in a 2x4 grow space although I’d suggest 2 units if going any larger than that. The total output in this space equates to about 30w/sq.ft. Which is a decent amount of coverage based on power vs. Growprint. Ideal for veg. Certainly but, in flower - I tend to run closer to 50-60w/sq.ft to achieve higher yields. Again, similar fixtures have performed admirably in the past and while this wouldn’t be considered an “entry-level” fixture, I’d recommend that any grower new to the game not skimp on lighting and start with one of these. The price points are a great value for quality LED tech. These days, so there’s little reason to even consider a lesser fixture👍. I have no detail on limiting factors for this light as yet but have heard that stock branded fixtures don’t necessarily incorporate enough red diodes. I’ve seen no issue myself but confess - I’m no lighting guru. Website link: https://www.viparspectra.com/collections/xs-series/products/xs-series-xs2000 ***8% discount when using code: “ItBudWhisper”*** Happy to have you along for the ride if you made it this far through my opening rant!!😎🤟😎🤟😎

Started training