1/29/24 - Beginning of week. Looked good, was planning on letting it go another week but within a day the top leaves started turning yellow all over and I started seeing amber, just a few but spread out all over the plant, so last minute decision to harvest on 1/31/24.

It's Day 25 Week 04 Of Flower For My 02 Kombucha Cream By atlasseed . And For My Snow White and SpliffStrawberry By Spliff Seeds Amsterdam . So Yesterday was Feeding Day All 04 Plants Received 4ml of Quad.AG Products Humonic, 4ml Of Emerald Harvest Nutrients CalMag and 8ml Of Hygrozym By Hygrozyme 4 Growers . I ph this mix at 6.1 Ppm on this mix is at 291. Now on Runoff my Kombucha Cream 3-Part had a Ph of 6.4 and Ppm is at 1490. My Snow White on Runoff as a Ph of 6.3 and Ppm is at 822. My Kombucha Cream 2-Part on Runoff as a Ph of 6.3 and Ppm is at 933. My SpliffStrawberry on Runoff as a Ph of 6.1 and Ppm is at 698. My Kombucha Cream 3-Part Is starting to spike up so I will Keep a closer eye on her. Now let's talk a little about Water Temperature before you feed your plants. On this run I been watering my plant with water temperature at 24 Celsius to 25 Celsius and I am seeing a big defrence on my plants. Also when I feed with Emerald Harvest the ph will spike up a little. And when I feed with the Humonic my ph will balance. Quad.ag Humonic is a fantastic ph balancer and a Great Root Builders in the early veg stage. I can go on and on with Humonic but all keep that for another post 😜. All 04 Lady's are Stacking Up like Champs and getting really Frosty. HAPPY GROWING GROWMIES 🤘🏻

Germinated for 24 hours in a glass of water, 48 hours in a paper towel and then I planted them into biodegradable seedling pots. Northern Lights looking a bit ahead of the Dosidos seeds but that was expected I’ve grown Northern Lights before and they sprout real quick. One of the Dosidos’ first true leaves is looking a bit wonky but we’ll see how it goes I suppose.

Itty-Bitty is now 15 inches tall, Strain: Royal Dwarf-- so she was not meant to get very big anyways!- VERY happy with the 25-30 buds, she will not grow amy taller, now focusing on fitting up her nuggets. She's the oldest of my 7 strains this run- popped up from soil Oct 3rd 2023. Do not plan on harvest until 2024.

Cal Mag da fat crystal foi adicionado 2g/L Açucar Refinado foi adicionado 0,5g/gal Essa semana algumas das plantas demonstram uma deficiencia de CalMag. Vou estar adicionando 1x por semana por mais 2 semanas, e parar 2 semanas antes de colher Mas tudo ta indo bem até agora, o Fungus Gnast que tava no ambiente foi controlado. As plantas estão com um crescimento otimo, e completam 60 dias de vida entre os dias 14/01 e 18/01, acredito que mais 4 semanas e estará pronto para colher!

Welp gotta leave the country for awhile and got no one to trust so this plant is going to get harvested very early but I’ll do another run some other time

This girl is growing amazingly and she stinks you Thai Mint 😍 She’s definitely my one of favourite strains. Most of her pistils have receded and once they have all done I’ll start checking her trichomes. I think it’ll be around 2 weeks before harvest and a bud wash. Happy growing 🤙🏿

I had to speed it up. but it looks good…

Lights were 80% until this week. Now at 100% for flower. The plants have exploded in growth. One more stretchy than the other. I’m struggling to keep the tent cooler than 80 degrees.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Continue to leave her grow, got my dli at 35 currently..

At 112 days from seed, 70 days from when the lights were switched to 12-12, 57 days from when the first flowers were observed, I was seeing a few more amber trichomes everyday so I chopped her down. I was thrilled with the harvest. We'll see what the dry weight is but wet weight is 19.5oz ~ 554grams. Not a huge mistake but I wish I would have either used a scrog screen or done manifolding or vegged a little shorter and given more attention to guiding and managing the stretch. I think manifolding would have been best as she is a tall, stretchy plant. I didn't have the support I wish I did. The breeder says that she'll probably need some support and I think my consistency would have been better with a more uniform canopy height. Zero issues with mold, bud rot, root rot, pests, etc. Great plant!0 After letting her dry for 5 days, I weighed the harvest again and put it in jars. Buds are still sparkly and sticky and resiny. Not super compact, but my growing conditions were a little warm so I can't fault the genes. Dried weight is only 19% of wet weight which is less than I expected. She had a little more water weight than I thought when I chopped her down. I had my first sample of her. One good hit is all you'd want. I'd call the affect balanced. Great, strong hybrid. Somewhat in your head and up, but also a relaxed feeling in your body. I wouldn't want to over do it but a little is very nice! I'm glad I have almost 4 oz of it. :-)000

Flowering strong on day 40, trichomes looking good

Liebe Leute, Woche 5 ist im vollen Gange! PK 13-14 schlägt gut an, die Buds werden dichter und wachsen so langsam zusammen! Harz Produktion ist heftig, die Finger kleben nach dem entlaufen für die kleineren Colas weiter unten. Manche Härchen werden langsam braun aber die Ladys haben noch viel Zeit um groß und stark zu werden. Momentan ist es für mich schwierig mit dem Wassermanagement, bei 29-30 Grad im Zelt und Stofftöpfen brauchen sie 5 Liter alle drei Tage! Ich bin gespannt wie die nächsten Wochen werden! Liebe Grüße Fićo

Ya comenzamos con el lavado! Flawless para terminar con un buen sabor y buena ceniza! Tratamos de bajar la EC lo mas cercano a 0 que pueda. Esta es la ultima semana antes del corte, asi llegamos a las fiestas con flores secas y frescas! Muy contento por como se ha dado todo este ciclo, pero con muchas ganas de corregir ciertas cositas que he ido aprendiendo en este cultivo, muy agradecido con la planta y con este aprendizaje! Felicidad absoluta En la expocannabis de Uruguay pude analizar 2 muestras, f5 y f2. El f5 tiene mayor thc y mas % de terpenos! Mas presencia de limoneno, luego linalol y un poco de myrceno! Mientras el F2 tiene mas presencia de Myrceno, limoneno y linalol. Menos thc que f5 y menos terps, esto ya es otro nivel! Entender quimicamente como esta tu flor, esto otro juego! Saludos Jardin33ro

First time growing autos and ready to go again, smoothie got the toxcicity, well that's what we settled on eventually but by slightly diluting the feed next time I don't think we will have an issue,.. Zkittles was straight forward, took to lst, enjoyed all her feed,.. all in all very very happy and autos specifically fastbuds autos will be continually ran from now on for me... Very happy 👌👍