Going strong. End of week 3 , gave her a decent tidy up for more light penetration and air flow.

Todo su desarrollo fue perfecto, no tuve ningún problema con nada, la planta se fue formando sola de manera perfecta. Me sorprende los pesados que son los cogollos y lo lleno de resina que están, en un mes aproximadamente pretendo ya probarlo para ver que onda el pegue. Solo tuve un problema que fue culpa mía por el tema de la humedad ya que una pequeña parte de la planta fue afectada por moho, pude solucionarlo rápido y sin ningún inconveniente alguno. Como ya dije más arriba recomiendo el banco de semillas de BSF SEED, las mejores plantas que tuve fueron gracias a sus semillas de muy buena calidad.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

No bud rot! I don’t know how much I harvested and I don’t care. All I know is I got enough to last me a long while.

Hello Growers & Tokers! This week was all about the roots! At the beginning of the week, on day 17 or so.. they all got transplanted into their final pots, 11L fabric pots. Medium used was Light Mix from BioBizz. Synergy from Grotek nutrients was blended in the medium to help out the roots. They were a bit droopy the first days but by the end of the week leaves perked back up and started getting that dark green color. I plan on leaving them be for a week then topping them. Take care out there and happy growing!

Time to change the period...

Week 9 - Day 58 - 02/23 to 2/28 2021 All phone pictures. Go off site to my instagram for HD/DSLR content: https://www.instagram.com/glazedgrow/ Glad this LSD-25 took off way more than i expected due to grower error/past grower error experience 😅 . Very familiar earthy purples/gassy varnish/deep boozy citrus coming in. The accidental HST snap on the main stalk in first week of flower turned into a solid canopy of 7 Bud Sites with the main premature flower already thicker than the first time I grew this strain and cooked it under a humidity dome by accident 🙏 Gave all the plants mostly water feeds this week in order to avoid salt build up. Some staining on the bottom of the fabric pots from the bottom feeds so just making sure the soil is fine for the final major nute feeds before flushing in a week or so. Made some caps with homemade thc olive oil from a friend that sent me some "Intergalactic Cable" viewing materials as well 😎 Have to use them fast but been stable for a week and not just starting to come through the gel caps, will have to get something harder next time still a lot left in the bottle. It's 2nd closest to the window and i keep my tent open so when the light is off it's getting a solid 16-18 Celcius helping out the genetic purple pop a bit more in the leaves like the Red Poison next to it, look and smell very similar overall except more Sweet/Candy in the RP and Boozey/Earthy in LSD. Other than that, the new @MarsHydroLED TSL 2000 and @ViparSpectraLED PS1500 for veg definitely made a huge difference and the buds on the Dark Devil. Big thanks to @ViparspectraJennie for putting a new XS1000 in the mail to test on my next grow. The FB testers finally came in so excited to get some of those in the tent and under the new tester. *Sponsored Content* Feel free to check out/save some money on your next @ViparSpectraLED using discount code "GLAZEDGROW" at this link: https://www.viparspectra.com/?aff=378&utm_source=affiliate (Again check out my insta, very limited quality content will be posted here) Thanks for checking out the latest #GlazedGrow🍩 -- Go off site and check out my Instagram for better content: https://www.instagram.com/glazedgrow/ Go off site and check out my CannaBuzz profile: https://www.cannabuzz.app/users/GlazedGrow

Week two starting. The delux slurbet (rhs) are really stretching. The GSC (lhs) not so much At end of week (day 14 from flip)had a nice haircut so the air and light can penetrate

Super easygoing strain, and fun to grow. Looks like a nice yield but I'll have to update with weight after it's dry. This sweetie was grown in 6 gallons, from seed, under non adjustable lighting from seedling through harvest. Base nutes and cal mag. Ocean Forest/perlite in the bottom 3/4, Happy Frog/perlite on the top 1/4. Trained with a combo of scrog/lst techniques. The lights are two 50 dollar "1000 watt equivalent" Amazon LEDs, they say their max input is 280 volts though so I have no idea what grams to watts will be when the dry weight comes in. Thanks to everyone who checked or checks this diary out, that's pretty cool of you! I'll be back in a bit to update weight and smoke, happy trails!

I dumped the water and added new today with nutrients. Two plants are looking really healthy. I'll focus on these now and let the others slowly grow on the side. The one I transplanted late is dead. Will update more as it develops. UPDATE: Largest plant is drooping a lot. I'm assuming the auto-waterer over-watered again. Avoid this flower pot. I emptied the water and am letting it dry out a bit before watering again. UPDATE: The auto-waterer soaked the large plant. I've poked holes in the medium and lowered the light to just above the plants to hopefully help dry it out quickly. Also have a fan on it. UPDATE: The plant dried out enough that it's looking healthy again. Yay!

Easy trim✂️ The buds are rock solid🤩 The smell citrus & earthy 🍋 See you in 2025 for the smoke report Take care

Getting beautiful colors

So starting the 3rd week of flower. All but one plant speeding ahead towards dank. The lights below LED continue at a fast pace, I think it’s the most pistils I’ve seen firing out all over place this early. However one of the OS below the HPS isn’t feeling this groove and is developing at a slower rate. The plants that are being hit by both lights are gonna be fat!!!!! The forming buds are coming together quickly and big, they look swollen before they’ve swollen if ya know what I mean.🤔😂 I love week 3 of flower its where I always hit my plants with Hydrotops Triple F. It’s not a new product I’m using however I am using it in conjunction with two of their other products this time which is supposed to be the ideal way to benefit the plants when using Triple F. Development has seemed quicker during this grow especially from the period of switching the light cycle up to now. I’m happy. Temperature still a problem though a bit. Looking awesome going through week 3. But one plant is so much slower than the rest, I think she stretched a little too much when it was time. It still looks very strong and is covered with flower sites but they’re just not developing at a rate anything like her sisters flowers. The phantom OG in there with them are super fast. Maybe that’s making the Orange seem slower to me too🤔😂 all looking great in there anyway and am loving every moment I get to get in there with my girls. Very productive 3rd week 3 out of 4 growing at an accelerated rate, the 4th is looking fine too, well looking great actually but a lot slower with flower development.

START OF WEEK 8 of the critical start of week 7 for the girl scout coockies. the critical is the plant u see first the coockies are in top left corner and bottom right. the midle and top right are my 2 new criticals who are still in VEG but i put them in the flowertent to speed it up a litle (the light is stronger and i got the space) when the flower light goes out i move those back to my veg room (bathroom uhum) 😅 nothing too special this week ill probably harvest the critical next weekend and let the coockies go another 3-4 weeks. the buds are fattening and i see the tips of those leaves have slight signs of nute burn so just water from here. see u next week (edit: lol the critical has major calmag issues do not watch those leaves shes almost done and surviving my heatwave torture tent)

I cut them down the night before the open houses started. The White Widow looks really good. I put them in darkness for 72 hrs, then cut and hung the whole plant, then wet trimmed hung for 18 hrs/day and put in paper bags for about 6 hrs/day for 4 days with a fan oscillating close by. Then in bags for one day, now they've been dry trimmed and put in jars. 50g for the White Widow and it looks great. I can't wait to smoke some.

Diese Woche gab es nur Wasser für die Girls. Sie entwickelt sich gut allerdings ist es relativ kalt nachts circa 17° tagsüber um die 20° noch eine Woche dann müssten Sie soweit sein.

here is day 42 of flowering. she is a doctor she can be sick heheh. she has nice fat and sticky buds. the smell is so sweet.